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Old Jul 05, 2012, 09:52 AM
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Joined Apr 2012
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Kudos to you guys!
It's awesome to see builds like this...
I'm reminiscing about my sig riser, I had both a 2m and 100 inch and loved them both...
The 2 m I took off the balanced rudder as it doesn't make sense..

IMHO these are the planes to start flying on, just as I did... It's too easy to be suckered into a mouldy and not understand the kinetics of lift... Once you understand lift and coordination on flying then and only then it's time to slowly move up to a mouldy... My mentor thankfully banned me from mouldies for at least 4 years...
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Old Jul 05, 2012, 01:09 PM
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United States, NV, Reno
Joined Jun 2012
157 Posts
Slowly But Surly

So I have started the outboard wings and been looking at the rest of the build. This is my first build so it takes me a bit to understand the way this stuff goes together, and for whatever reason I cannot start until I understand the final result. That said I am having a lot of fun. I am perfectly happy working on the build as it has been too windy for me to fly in my area (on my schedule) lately.

That said I think I am on my way to radio gear in the near future. What sort of servos would you guys use? I am going with RES set up so I assume maybe two standard and a Micro size (not really sure)? I have a receiver and transmitter on the way. Also, I don't totally understand how to power the the flight pack without the esc either as at the moment I only have a powered plane.

I will be posting more pictures tonight as I forgot and I am now at work.

Thank you,
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Old Jul 05, 2012, 01:17 PM
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Marlborough, Massachussetts, United States
Joined May 2002
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I would go with three standard servos. They are cheap and if you position them ahead of the CG they will not significantly affect the final weight of the plane.

To power the receiver and servos you can use a 4 cell NIMH pack or a 2S Lipo with a UBEC. If your charger can handle NIMH packs, I would go that way because you're probably going to need the weight up front and it'll cost less.
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Old Jul 05, 2012, 09:49 PM
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United States, MA, Waltham
Joined Dec 2001
7,004 Posts
Whatever standard or mini servo you can get that is inexpensive ought to work fine. HS-55 is probably too small. HS-81's would be fine. Standard servos are not too large on something like this, although they're total overkill. But if you have them from your radio already, why not use them?

4 cell nicad is ok, too, if that's cheaper. You'll want at least 500 mAh capacity. I've found that AA nimh from the drugstore* seem to be fine for this purpose. At least if you can solder. But you'd need a hefty soldering iron (lots of metal, not just Watts), and some special technique. If interested, send me a message. You could use AAA batteries, but then you'd need more nose weight anyway. Your receiver is likely nominally 5 volts, so 4 nimh or nicad cells are just right.

If you're going to be using nimh or nicads very much, it's a really good idea to test them now and then. For that, you'll want an expanded scale voltmeter** and a cycler.*** These don't have to be particularly expensive. Instead of the expanded scale voltmeter, you could just use a digital voltmeter and a small resistive load. Maybe 25 ohms for the receiver battery and 50 for the transmitter. You might have to charge and discharge nimh batteries a couple of times to get the full capacity. It's also a good idea to charge, wait a few days, and test the capacity. If it's down a lot, be suspicious.


* http://cvs.com/shop/product-detail/D...A?skuId=467550
** http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXWDZ5&P=7
*** http://www.gravesrc.com/RAM_SIMPLE_CYCLER_p/ram22.htm
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Old Jul 06, 2012, 03:58 PM
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United States, NV, Reno
Joined Jun 2012
157 Posts
Little set back??

I glued the 1/16th plywood sheathing on and then tried to bend it to the airfoil and cracked it. It is not bad, and is easily repairable (I already glued it back together). Does anyone think I can save it and leave it as is, or should I start over with it? I have a piece of 1/16 ply I could cut down to fit.

I will be starting the instal of the Spoilers. I need to figure out what sort of wire or string and tube to use. Also, based on what I have read here, I feel like I probably should modify the plan to include some sort of system to hold the spoilers down while not in use. I am leaning toward magnets with a screw for adjustments.

I have also made some progress on the outboard wings. The ribs and maybe more will go in tonight.

I have identified the parts to the fuse, and looked at it enough to where I feel confident in starting the build for the fuse.

As I am wrapping up the wing and starting on the fuse I wonder. Is the general consensus to cover the fuse or to paint it. I thought if there is not a weight penalty I would probably paint as it seems a bit easier and more repairable.

Thank you for the input it is really helping.
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Old Jul 06, 2012, 08:15 PM
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United States, OR, Corvallis
Joined Jan 2010
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My Cent....

Hey, when you say 1/16" "ply" cracking when "bent on the airfoil' do you mean 1/6" balsa sheet? If so, I would tend to think you could probably fix that.

The method I like best for putting sheet balsa on wings (or anything) is using yellow wood glue, pre-glue both sides of a joint, rub the glue in with your finger, let each side dry(or really close), then sand if needed with really fine sandpaper, get your iron you would use to apply covering with and just put your pre-glued sheeting in place and iron it on at about 200 deg , the heat will bond both sides together really nicely and the heat will soften the wood and bend it too. I have not yet had wood crack on me while doing this. It's how I sheeted the wing the 2M Spirit I just built.

As far as spoiler hold-downs go, I used magnetic tape (which still needed some contact cement to get it to permanently stick to the wood) and scrap pieces of tin can cut and folded. It seems to work well, my spoilers are staying closed and it's not too hard for the spoiler to open them.

Covering vs. Painting- Covering will at least give you some tensile strengh putting the wood into compression slighly and thus stiffen your fusalage(or whatever), but I'm guessing it will probably be plenty strong enough without covering. I would still advise fiberglassing over the nose and forward compartment to avoid doing it later. Whether a painted fusalage is any easier to repair or not I don't know, the paint if thin enough could penetrate in to porous absorbtive balsa enough to lessen the strength of a glue joint later during a repair. Maybe. Not sure on that, just guessing.

Adios - Paul
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Old Jul 07, 2012, 03:14 PM
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United States, OR, Corvallis
Joined Jan 2010
935 Posts
Batteries and servos and switches and......

Fickle Flyer- hopefully this answers some of your questions you asked on my Spirit thread, you can check there too, there's more pictures that might be of use for you for the fuselage.

If you are going to use the rubber-band wing attachment option, I HIGHLY recommend putting your rubber band mounts internally like this, and if at all in doubt about sturdiness, overbuild them some, the extra weight won't likely register and you won't be repairing them later due to ripping out/apart under strain of a crash or hi-start launch in a really stiff breeze. This is SOOOOOOOO much cleaner aerodynamically, and now that I've done on my current plane and it's predecessor, I don't think I'll ever build a plane with external dowels sticking out sideways again. In fact, I'm really thinking of doing some major surgery on my HOB 2x4(getting a new wing and rudder) and Ace RC Easy Eagle(getting a modification to the fusalage) and at the same time incorporating this method.

Adios - Paul
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Last edited by Pauliwog; Jul 07, 2012 at 03:22 PM.
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Old Jul 21, 2012, 03:45 AM
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United States, NV, Reno
Joined Jun 2012
157 Posts
a little progress

Getting fairly far along on the wing. Basically final few tasks and then join them. The only problem is that it will be harder to store if it is all joined so I am going to start on the rest. Seems like I spend most of my time fixing my mistakes so if I got a guid run I could be done quickly. Anyway here are a few more pics.
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Old Jul 22, 2012, 10:26 PM
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Oops, looks like my old post was lost.

I don't like fuselages with plastic covering. It takes longer to do, the covering gets ratty, and it's sometimes hard to get ALL of it off when doing repairs. I prefer to use Sig Sanding Sealer. If smell is a problem, the D J Aerotech site has the Ask J&D section and a procedure for putting on water based urethane without adding much weight. You could probably even just spray paint, I suppose. If you're really worried about strength, you can do a very robust, light finish with 1/2 or 3/4 oz. glass cloth and epoxy. You can also do a heavy, ugly finish this way if you are careless or don't blot it with something (bathroom tissue, for instance).

If you're worried about storage, it's not too late at this point to do a two or three piece wing using music wire (such as that stuff from K&S) and brass tubing. This photo should give you some idea, though it's for a larger glider:
http://www.skybench.com/images/slnos...970joiners.jpg
You'd box in the joiner with plywood and fill the space with epoxy thickened with microballoons. Or maybe fumed silica, or both. If you didn't have these, very fine sawdust would work.

7/32" rod is fine for a wood two meter than hasn't been beefed up. It bends instead of breaking, and the bend is obvious, so you'll back off of the winch. You don't really need an alighment pin with a wing that rubber bands on top of the fuselage. If you make a three piece wing, with the rods where the tip section joins the main, you can use 3/32" or 1/8". The GL uses 3/32". It's very bendy, but in my experience, it springs back. You can use electrical tape to keep the tip sections on and plug the gap. If you use it, you might want to double up on the covering within an inch of the joint, or put packing tape over it.
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Old Aug 05, 2012, 04:12 PM
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United States, VA, Lynchburg
Joined Jul 2012
71 Posts
Fickle Flier,

Your spoilers look good! I am currently just starting my own Sig Riser. I'm thinking about the spoiler option. Did you have any trouble making the spoilers or cutting the ribs? Also, did you use your trailing edge stock for the spoilers? I think I recall the instructions said to do that, but I'm not sure if the kit included enough trailing edge stock.




Open Question:

As I'm thinking about spoilers, I've also been toying with the idea of sheeting the upper wing surface from the leading edge to the main spar across both main (inner) panels. I'm thinking a 1/16 sheet shouldn't add much weight and would like nice with the installed spoilers. Thoughts from anyone? Is it overkill and unecessary, or is it worth the weight?



Joshua
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Old Aug 05, 2012, 05:17 PM
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United States, NV, Reno
Joined Jun 2012
157 Posts
Spoilers

Hello

They do not include the materials for the spoilers in the kit. I did the spoilers with a piece of 1.5" trailing edge stock that I cut down to 1 to match the plan exactly as I was not sure if it would have any ill effect to have the spoilers be 1/2 inch bigger than the plan. I then used CA glue to attach a piece of sandpaper to a piece of the trailing edge stock so that I could sand the exact shape of the wood. I did not install the spar caps yet as I am still working on it. I did not cut them away I just figured I would instal them after spoiler installation as it seems more efficient to just instal the trimmed pieces rather than trimming them while attached to the ribs per the instructions; however, I am sure it would not be hard the other way with a razor saw or dremell.

Right now I am putting together the tail group as the fuse is roughed together and I felt like I needed all the parts to sort of see the end product and rough it together. That way I could make the areas where they connect perfectly align etc.

I was planning to post some new pics soon as I have been working on it off and on today and probably tomorrow too.
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Old Aug 05, 2012, 05:31 PM
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United States, NV, Reno
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157 Posts
Sheething

NCSU

As for the sheathing I was wondering if this was a good idea too. I decided to just build per the plan as this is my first build. I did have a bit of trouble with the sheathing though.

Being a bit inexperienced I did not shape the leading edge enough before installing the sheathing. This caused me to break it during installation. After repairing it and finishing the installation of the sheathing I decided to take it all of and shape the leading edge more accurately and instal new sheathing that was not broken. It wend a lot better the second time. Also, I used a bit of water on a sponge to help bend the wood during installation of the sheathing the second time.
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Old Aug 10, 2012, 06:09 PM
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United States, NV, Reno
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Picture updates

Just some pics I took.

I do not know how to edit the description of photos. I guess I need to look for that.

1. Part of the tail
2. I just put in so you can see how sad it is that it doesn't fly yet
3 Cuts in ribs for the spoilers
4-6. Wings
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Old Aug 10, 2012, 07:28 PM
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United States, OK, Moore
Joined Jan 2006
2,592 Posts
Looks like you're doing fine. Just think of everything you've learned during this build. Your next one will go much better! Keep it up!
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Old Aug 10, 2012, 07:57 PM
Be the duck. Whaaaa?
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United States, CA, Guerneville
Joined Mar 2012
312 Posts
I really like your storage solution. As for captioning your photos after you upload using the manage attachments window your pictures will be displayed in that window with a field for you caption next to them.
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