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Old Jul 12, 2012, 10:35 AM
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Eddie P's Avatar
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OK, got it on the cam locks. I'll have to search for something usable on my setup.

As far as painting resin on, I've always used that technique myself and have glassed small 30" span balsa electric models back when weight gain was far more critical than it is today. Brushing on the resin, thinned, is my preferred technique. With the small amount of weight gain on your wing panel I'm sure both tricks have reduced weight to a fair margin.
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Old Jul 13, 2012, 10:14 PM
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PCM L1011 kits

All,

I have two PCM L1011 kits that I am willing to sell. Anyone who is interested, let me know. I also have some of the gear sets to go with them.

Bob
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Old Jul 14, 2012, 04:37 AM
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I will definately try the peel ply method, but I've had great success using foam rollers when glassing, I find it much easier to control the amount of resin added with the roll than brushing it on. And it is much quicker as well which is also a bonus. I use 2" or 4" wide rolls depending on the size of the job, the only downside to this way of doing it is that the roll sucks up a lot of resin so you will end up with more resing wasted.
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Old Jul 14, 2012, 11:06 AM
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Have you tried the brush on method as well as the roller method? What do you like about one over the other? I've always brushed on.
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Old Jul 14, 2012, 03:16 PM
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Roller method is much faster on large surfaces and I also find it easier to control the resin amount than when using a brush. But for smaller jobs it's no point as the roll sucks up a lot of epoxy resin, if all I'm glassing is a stab or smaller parts then I use a brush as well. The fact that the roll sucks up a lot of resin is also a good thing, as you can then just keep on rolling without adding more resin, it's basically the same as painting using rollers. Often, if I do a layup with two layers of cloth, like a duct which usually is two layers of 5-6oz. I never have to add much resin at all after the second layer of cloth is added, just roll and get the resin to slowly soak through the cloth.
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Old Jul 15, 2012, 08:33 AM
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What ever happened to using a Bondo spreader blade to remove as much resin as possible for the dull sheen? Sand smooth and ad the (2nd) glow coat for final sanding?
Tom
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Old Jul 15, 2012, 11:14 AM
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I think plenty of people still use that method. Glassing is like cooking. Some try to save fat... some add a little oil for good measure... some add a lot of spice Since we don't glass with autoclaves in certified aerospace manufacturing plants and most of us used finish glass as a tough finish application, we have our own little recipes that work well in their chosen application. I learned to glass in the early 90's and my glassing mentor was a fan of the "paint brush" method and then primer to fill the weave technique. I've gone with some variations here and there, even used water based polyurethane for a while wit no primer... but I'm back to West Systems epoxy, some denatured alcohol, a paintbrush and then primer and a lot of wet sandpaper before final paint, as my chosen technique (for now).

For me, what makes me prefer one particular technique over others might be total weight gain being low, finishes that require less time, ones that last a long time in high heat environments without bubbles or cracks appearing over the years, low price of material, etc.
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Old Jul 16, 2012, 01:22 AM
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To minimize the weight of resin the best application for even cover is to use disposable rollers, magic to work with and after laing down the gator keep on rolling it to get rid off all the bubbles or creases for perfect finish, J.
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Old Jul 16, 2012, 01:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuchuf View Post
At 27 lbs AUW or less these definately don't fly like bricks. They fly beautifully.

Terry
If you can keep it at 25-27lb you are laughing, I was refering to 35-36lb turbine, looked more like a fighter jet then an airliner.
Last week I sold one of my upgraded "777" foamy, that thing flew so realistic I have managed to fool lot of people watching from their balconys "what the hell is doing that airliner so low over the ocean". From 1/2 a 'k' you wouldn't know the difference, Joe.
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Old Nov 18, 2012, 08:47 PM
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I have one of Pat M's L-1011s. I want to convert it to EDF and your post timing could not be any better. Are you flying all 4 batteries on one flight to extend your flight time, and can you give me ballpark range of how much time you are getting? Thanks!

Rob
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Old Nov 18, 2012, 09:07 PM
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Originally Posted by rcfastmover View Post
I have one of Pat M's L-1011s. I want to convert it to EDF and your post timing could not be any better. Are you flying all 4 batteries on one flight to extend your flight time, and can you give me ballpark range of how much time you are getting? Thanks!

Rob
Yes, we have these set up at 8S 5000 per fan. I don't tie he batteries together but I guess you could. With good throttle management )full power takeoff and fly mostly at 1/2 to 2/3 throttle) you can get 7-8 min flights.
Sorry I didn't finish this thread, I got busy. The plane was finished quite a while ago and delivered to the owner.

Terry
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Old Jan 01, 2013, 09:53 PM
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T

Thanks for your previous reply. Do you have the ability to produce more of the inlets you mentioned in the thread. I'd be interested in purchasing a couple if you are interested.

Rob
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Old Jan 02, 2013, 03:23 PM
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Originally Posted by rcfastmover View Post
Thanks for your previous reply. Do you have the ability to produce more of the inlets you mentioned in the thread. I'd be interested in purchasing a couple if you are interested.

Rob
I don't have the ability. What I did was to make a plug and sent it to Park Flyers Plastics and he made me the inlets which I would then trim to fit. They fit on the outside of the nacelle and slid on the outside of the fan. For servicing I had to make them this way and removable.
Mine are specifically for the EJets 90mm Jet Fan mounted in the nacelle.What fans are you using??

I have a few extras that you can have for the cost of shipping.

Just drop me an email to terfer@comcast.net

Got any pics of your buils that you can post?
Terry
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