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Old Aug 28, 2012, 05:19 PM
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cr8tive_leo's Avatar
Canada, ON, Cochrane District
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NP. The board you have, I checked out. (CL and the check on the sticker, c'est moi).
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Old Sep 02, 2012, 05:47 PM
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Ricardo Trevisan's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mutchy View Post
Hi Ricardo.
I am going to use carbon fibre for the next case bottom as a trial. I had in mind using my normal clear epoxy resin as a gel coat with some white glitter in it. The top would be painted white with a gloss top coat. The buttons would be shiny black, the gimbals are black so I think that would look quite "professional".
Now I have not heard of crystal epoxy, excuse my ignorance, but I did find some clear two part formula resin in a craft shop last week but I do not know whether it is epoxy or polyester. It is $38 for 250 gms so it's quite expensive. It is a pour on clear film covering for jewellery photomontages and similar craft work. I'll do a Google search when I finish this message. Thanks for the tip off.
Steve
Good night

The polyester resin is transparent, here goes + or 1 KG - $ 15, I've done some work, when making the piece'll see if I can afford to use the machine vacuum, so does not create bubbles .....
the blanket of carbon is priced at HobbyKing good ..

I'm watching.

Mr Trevisan
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Old Sep 02, 2012, 06:49 PM
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Wollongong Australia
Joined Dec 2003
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Thanks and merci beaucoup for your interest and involvement respectively.
I decided to paint the prototype. It's amazing how time consuming filling and painting is when you have lots of bubbles to fill. That will teach me to be patient and wait for the gel coat to go off!
Oh, and before painting I installed a flange along the perimeter of the top part of the case and glued in the wooden blocks used to secure the top to the bottom. I am not very happy with this method of joining the two halves. The top and bottom parting line is quite neat because the parts mate together well, and the torsional stiffness is excellent. But the flange itself is weak and not a very good dust seal (important here in summer). I will probably try to cast a silicon rubber joint. So I have to improve the method of assembly. What I would really like but have had no luck in finding, is a small (|-|) section seal as is commonly used for the installation of glass windows in caravans. I have looked on the internet without success but have still to visit the local rubber products supply store. If I can find a seal I would use screws through the bottom of the case into stand offs glued to the top, the same as used for mounting PC boards. These screws would also secure four rubber feet.
Pictures later.
Steve
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Old Sep 03, 2012, 03:13 PM
xjh
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Joined Dec 2006
212 Posts
Steve, Ray at Camden Repairs caravans and has access to that rubber moulding. I'll text you his mobile #, Richard
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Old Sep 04, 2012, 03:57 AM
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Wollongong Australia
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Top and bottom of the case is painted and, of course, there were a few holes to drill in the newly painted surface; all those for the FrSky DJT module. I also put in the speaker hole and the radial cuts with the Dremel. Now I only have the charging jack, headphones, and mini DIN plug holes to make but as I have none of those to work from they'll have to go in after the clear coat which is scheduled for tomorrow morning. The FrSky telemetry cable is made and the mounting bracket for the ariel is installed. I did a test to roughly measure the relative permittivity the fibreglass. Microwave ovens work at just under 2.4 GHz. If a sample of material absorbs radio frequencies it will become hotter. The test is to place a sample of the material in the microwave and try to heat it. It's necessary to also put a glass of water into the oven as well so that no damage occurs to the oven. I gave my sample two minutes and the water was turbulently boiling but the fibreglass was only slightly warm and much cooler than the glass rotating table upon which it was sitting. So I am fairly confident that when I do the range tests my proposed ariel position inside the Tx case along the top ridge will be satisfactory.
Here's some photos promised yesterday.
Steve
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Old Sep 04, 2012, 04:58 PM
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Canada, ON, Cochrane District
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Wunderbar! Looks awesome Steve!
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Old Sep 04, 2012, 07:53 PM
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HI

It was very good indeed!

Congratulations for the work.

Trevisan
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Old Sep 08, 2012, 03:33 AM
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Wollongong Australia
Joined Dec 2003
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One loom at a time.....
The ariel fits under many things so it is installed first. I just remembered that to perform a test to measure how much of the range I lose (if any) by having it inside the case, I will have to get it out somehow.

The speaker is mounted on double sided tape; the sort which has a foam centre. It was easy and quick so I expect it to fall out soon. I'll put a three blobs of silicon around the perimeter when it does. First I'll see how well it works.

The RF bits and pieces are messy with cables too long so I shortened some to fit better. The module itself has no mounting holes which offends my sense of good workmanship. I will put a piece of foam between it and the bracket when I finish this report and replace the cable ties. That will be better.

For the digital trim boards I abandoned the idea of using my black broad head push buttons which I went to great trouble to make, because I could not achieve a satisfactory mounting arrangement. The length of the stem was too short to affix a retainer so that the button would not fall out of captivity. They were however quite successful for the ErSky 9x PC board momentary switches. The PC board is further distant from the top face so the pieces of fuel tube I eventually settled upon fit neatly, no glue is required, the button top does not fall out of engagement and it's fairly easy to assemble. It looks good too - photo coming tomorrow when I hope to put all the switches in position.

For the present the first gimbal is in place and the loom for this stick and it's associated digital trim board is cut to length awaiting crimping the header. The power and earth leads need a common junction because one lead from the header goes to three different items. I made places on the exposed part of the digital trim board by isolating one end of two of the copper tracks. Unconsciously convenient.

The carbon fibre clear finish tray case bottom is cured and released from the mould. It is disappointing because I trapped some air between the first and second clear gel coat in about ten or so places, the glitter is invisible, and the finish on the mould is not good enough to produce a shiny finish on the sloping part at the front. To proceed further I will need some Cabosil thickening agent so I need only use one gel coat which will stand up on the vertical surfaces and fillet across the sharper corners. I will need to polish the mould as well in one fairly broad place. Or I could paint the bottom, perhaps in the mould. I have not done this before but have seen it done by my club colleagues many times with varying degrees of success.

Oh well, back to the workshop to remount the DJT module on some foam and to perform the ceremonial cutting of the red jumper.
Steve
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Last edited by Mutchy; Sep 08, 2012 at 03:36 AM. Reason: clarification
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Old Sep 12, 2012, 12:07 AM
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Wollongong Australia
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Another loom or two...
Wiring up the switches required patience and attention to the wiring colours because I had a limited range of colours for my hook-up wire. So where the original piece of wire was red with a white stripe I had to extend the wire with white, for example. The largest header which includes the wires for the power supply ie from the battery has leads for external power supply and the jack. I left them off. I usually take my battery out of the Tx to charge it every couple of months so I thought I would continue that practice. I use 2750 mAh Li-Ion batteries which seem to last forever.
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Last edited by Mutchy; Sep 13, 2012 at 01:14 AM.
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Old Sep 12, 2012, 12:30 AM
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Wollongong Australia
Joined Dec 2003
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The harness and tray support.
My preference is for a shoulder harness because the neck strap is uncomfortable especially when looking up to the sky for long periods.
The metal frame which partially retracts into the tray through two rubber grommets was made from a simple towel rail: $7.00 from the local hardware store.
The webbing is 25 mm wide and lightweight with the ends wrapped around the metal frame and superglued. The superglue takes very well to the nylon webbing material. The straps cross over at the back and are fixed into ring guides bought from the local yacht shop. Adjustment is provided at the lower end of the harness to avoid the spare end of the straps getting in the way.
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Old Sep 12, 2012, 12:49 AM
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Wollongong Australia
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The final product.
All comments so far have been complimentary. Five or six of my friends have tried it for size and all have been generally impressed with the ease of access to controls. The three switches above each gimbal would be more comfortable for persons with larger hands if they were repositioned further away but as I am slightly less than a 50th percentile male in size they feel good where they are for me. One friend whose opinion I value did not like the canted axis of the gimbals which you may remember have toe in of 3.5 Degrees each. That is the sticks move a little outward as the are pulled back. He has years of experience flying with Graupner MC24 radios and could feel the difference immediately. I like the feeling but of course have not flown with it yet. I am waiting for delivery of a female JST plug so that I can power it up and see what does and doesn't work. If nothing arrives today I will go to the local JayCar store where they cost about 5 times more than HK and get one so I can use the radio on Saturday. In the meantime I am busy writing this and cleaning up the workshop and working out the cost........
Oh and BTW I put four small semi spherical feet on the underside to keep the shiny paint from being scratched.
Range testing next with the ariel inside and out. Then range testing with the carbon bottom half of the Tx case. It may act as a ground plane or it may just soak up the RF like a Faraday cage.

Some more pictures of the finished product.
Steve
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Old Sep 12, 2012, 01:08 AM
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Wollongong Australia
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Oh, and BTW it weighs 1060 grammes (about 36 ounces) and fits neatly into a small suitcase. The harness support frame partially retracts inside the transmitter case so that the lid of the suitcase can close.
Steve
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Old Sep 12, 2012, 03:06 PM
xjh
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Joined Dec 2006
212 Posts
WoW, just like a bought one!!! To the aesthetics, the finish, the design, the ergonomics, the professionalism of the install 'I doffs my hat". Bravo, Richard
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Old Sep 12, 2012, 07:59 PM
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Canada, ON, Mulmur
Joined Dec 2010
257 Posts
I second that WOW !

All other ERSKY boards , are living in the Ghettos now.!

Truly nice work.

-Brent
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Old Sep 12, 2012, 08:02 PM
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Coogee, Australia
Joined Aug 2003
609 Posts
Looks really good as usual Mutchy! Apparently I missed seeing it at the last EFSIG meetup.

I've got my 3D printer really well dialled in so if you need anything complex made in ABS or want to make some additions to the mould just let me know.

Matt
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