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Old Aug 22, 2012, 05:46 PM
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It's a rubber sleeve sold here in newsagents shops. They are usually used on pencils and pens by people who want a larger diameter soft grip or who have arthritis or a similar medical condition where they have limited ability to grip small items firmly. They come in assorted colours so I will be able to match the colour of the sticks to the eventual colour scheme of the radio.
S
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Old Aug 22, 2012, 05:52 PM
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Canada, ON, Cochrane District
Joined Oct 2011
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Very good idea, I'll have to hit the dollar shop on the way home, I know they have them there... very cool idea...
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Old Aug 23, 2012, 04:34 AM
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It's nice to have something at last to work with to lay out the gimbal and switch positions and get a 3D idea of what the insides will look like. For example the screen is quite deep in it's installed position and hence the ErSky 9x motherboard needs to sit 20 mm away from the top surface of the case. Then the push buttons on the top of the PCB which are the up/down/left/right buttons and the Menu/Exit buttons will need extensions about 15 mm long.
The layout of the gimbals, digital trim boards, motherboard and screen have been transcribed onto the top of the case and the holes drilled for the mounting screws and push buttons. I'll wait till I get the gimbals in place before deciding on the location of the control switches around the gimbals.
A small piece of blank PCB has been slotted to allow the JR On/Off switch cap to slide neatly up and down when actuating the switch. This will be glued in place to cover what would otherwise be a hole with no guide for the switch cap.
The alignment of the gimbals is canted 3.5 degrees "toe in" ie with the top of the stick travel closer to the centre than the bottom. I found this angle by experiment. It feels comfortable and is less likely to yield involuntary aileron or rudder with throttle or elevator movement. I'll see how it feels when everything is in place.
A prototype button extension has been made from a piece of 3mm carbon rod and a piece of 5 mm OD carbon tube. the carbon tube fits over the PCB push button holding the end of the carbon rod in contact with the top of the PCB button. The 3 mm carbon rod protrudes out the top of the case. I found some smooth shiny top black buttons in the haberdashery store which can be glued to the top of the carbon rod. The underside of the button is slotted with a Dremel and the top of the rod cut to match. The underside of the button is then filed to 3 mm diameter. The top of the button is probably a little large but four will fit neatly together in the 18 mm square configuration for the up/down/left/right buttons. I will keep my eyes open for some smaller diameter buttons with the same design of a tit below (for the thread) and a smooth top. The pushbutton extension tube and shaft are glued together once the case has been finish painted so that the buttons are trapped in place and can not fall out of the case when upside down.
Steve
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Last edited by Mutchy; Aug 23, 2012 at 04:38 AM. Reason: note re glueing shaft and tube added.
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Old Aug 25, 2012, 05:53 PM
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HI

Very beautiful work, you ever thought of using carbon fiber, because it is lighter more beautiful with crystal epoxy (here called so transparent epoxy).

I'm very late with my project.

Very beautiful.

trevisan
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Old Aug 26, 2012, 02:19 AM
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Hi Ricardo.
I am going to use carbon fibre for the next case bottom as a trial. I had in mind using my normal clear epoxy resin as a gel coat with some white glitter in it. The top would be painted white with a gloss top coat. The buttons would be shiny black, the gimbals are black so I think that would look quite "professional".
Now I have not heard of crystal epoxy, excuse my ignorance, but I did find some clear two part formula resin in a craft shop last week but I do not know whether it is epoxy or polyester. It is $38 for 250 gms so it's quite expensive. It is a pour on clear film covering for jewellery photomontages and similar craft work. I'll do a Google search when I finish this message. Thanks for the tip off.
Steve
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Old Aug 27, 2012, 08:05 AM
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Two switch harnesses ready today and the switch, buzzer board finished but not tested. The switches have been positioned and along with the gimbals are to be assessed for their ergonomic relationship.
I used the JR switch board cutting off the small display and all it's wiring. I added a 7805 5 volt regulator and a BC388 NPN transistor as the specified original parts were not readily available. The JR switch cap is mounted in an escutcheon made from PC board as mentioned in a post above. This is positioned centrally over the case switch aperture. This and the stand-offs will be glued in place as shown in one of the pictures below.
The stand-offs for the enhanced screen sold by Sky North have been made and it is ready to be glued in place too. Sky North usually cut the lugs off the screen for use in the normal 9x case because they get in the way of something else I think, but if you are making your own case ask him to leave the lugs on.
As I mentioned before the centreline of the gimbals is 3.5 degrees off vertical; toe in. The switches on the sloping panel are roughly in an arc of my middle finger when holding the stick in the neutral position. The middle switch is the longer so that tactile differentiation is easier. On the right this is the Motor Switch which on the normal 9x is the long switch on the top left corner. On the left is the ID0/1/2 switch; the one with the circular section lever normally above the right stick on the 9x. The two short switches are Gear and Aileron switches on the right, Rudder and Elevator on the left.
The ID0/1/2 switch will be used for changing flight modes and the throttle switch is for .......Throttle!, Well, for F5B use and electric competition glider anyway.
Now the pots from the JR388 Tx were only about half the 5k Ohm resistance required. Also they are difficult to use for the things I sometimes use them for and hopeless for throttle, say, in an F5J glider which is what I envisage I will be doing. The trim pots from the JR are about 4.4 k Ohms (I will check) well, nearly what is necessary, so I have decided to use them in place of the little rotary knobs. They are again positioned within an arc of my fingers when holding the sticks. None of these switches mentioned so far require moving ones hand off the top of the tray. Especially none are positioned inside the sticks. My present tray radio has three sliders and four switches inside the sticks and they are almost impossible to use without looking down. When your glider is at 1000 ft and you look down just try and find the model again! It's not easy and can be very scary, especially in all blue sky conditions.
The switch arrangement is almost satisfactory. The two long lever switches are just a few millimetres too close to the sticks and I will move them up on the next case. having the short switches at the top will be convenient when fitting the whole tray Tx into a carrying case as the top of the top switch is the highest part of the Tx.
There is one more pot and one more switch to position. The trim buttons are positioned at a convenient length for thumb operation without removing fingers from sticks and there is no more room on the sloping panel unless I was prepared to offend my principle of not reaching over the sticks to operate anything. Using the sides of the case is not possible because of the ex JR388 trim levers are so close to the edge and therefore no room inside for the switch body. So the only easily accessible location is above the screen inside the trim buttons; a little unusual and a location which is fairly crowded inside the case. I am still considering the options but as you can see in the last photo I have pencilled in a position for each. The TRN switch is on the right while a pot is on the left. I use the TRN switch for trimming and on some models it gets a lot of use so it has to be convenient.
Any advice or comment is very welcome.
S
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Last edited by Mutchy; Aug 27, 2012 at 08:10 AM. Reason: spelling correction
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Old Aug 27, 2012, 08:24 AM
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CarreraGTSCS's Avatar
United States, NJ, Trenton
Joined Jan 2004
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Look very good. I like the use of the trims as sliders. Where will your neck strap mounting points be? This is really one of the most interesting builds going on on RCG right now.

Mike
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Old Aug 27, 2012, 08:51 AM
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Canada, ON, Cochrane District
Joined Oct 2011
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Brent's an awesome guy!

Your tray radio is coming together nicely! Love it!
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Old Aug 27, 2012, 02:04 PM
xjh
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Joined Dec 2006
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es·cutch·eon/iˈskəCHən/
Noun:
A shield or emblem bearing a coat of arms.
A flat piece of metal for protection and often ornamentation, around a keyhole, door handle, or light switch.
The perfect word for a project that deserves a" coat of arms" Richard
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Old Aug 27, 2012, 05:39 PM
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Wollongong Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CarreraGTSCS View Post
Look very good. I like the use of the trims as sliders. Where will your neck strap mounting points be? This is really one of the most interesting builds going on on RCG right now.

Mike
Hi Mike.
I have a neck strap on my present tray radio (Robbe/Futaba FC28) It is uncomfortable for long periods of use and the radio is heavy which makes it worse.
I intend making a harness like the Graupner MC 24 tray uses. It transfers the load to your shoulders and clips to two inverted L shaped arms which pivot up from the radio.
This is a rough design concept at present. More later.
Steve
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Old Aug 28, 2012, 06:19 AM
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The next improved moulding has been popped out of the case top mould. It is heavier and more rigid than the first and the finish is very good. The gel coat was allowed to harden to semi hard before the first layer of lightweight 3 oz/sq.yd. galass was laid up. Five layers of 6 0z/sq. yd. were subsequently used. The gel coat was different and mixed to a stiffer consistency so it would stay in the vertical corners without slumping. It is a 'Bote Cote' brand filler used for fillets and glue, sold in small quantities at the local yacht shop. Most retailers here won't sell small quantities of anything to do with glassing or moulding so it is a welcome experience to find something smaller than ten years supply and sold in a local shop.
All the stand-offs have now been installed in the same way as those shown yesterday ie by glueing the standoffs in place while attached to their PC board or switch.
The location of the TRN switch (often used for setting all trims simultaneously in ER9x) and the last pot has been decided and the standoffs installed too.
The tmber dowels are used for standoffs for the ex JR388 trim pots because the screws which also locate the detent spring are 2 mm self tapping screws. In all other locations they are 3 mm phillips head machine screws and 3 mm tapped metal standoffs.
Steve
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Old Aug 28, 2012, 06:36 AM
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Canada, ON, Cochrane District
Joined Oct 2011
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Wonderful.

Just a note, if you don't have the piezo mod anymore, and want to use the speaker output on the ersky board. , you need to cut the red wire.

Don't touch the white one. (that's important).

The red wire is only there for people who have done the piezo speaker mod on the 9x. other wise, it doesn't need to be there.

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Old Aug 28, 2012, 07:16 AM
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Wollongong Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cr8tive_leo View Post
Wonderful.

Just a note, if you don't have the piezo mod anymore, and want to use the speaker output on the ersky board. , you need to cut the red wire.

Don't touch the white one. (that's important).

The red wire is only there for people who have done the piezo speaker mod on the 9x. other wise, it doesn't need to be there.

Hi Leo.
Thanks for your response. All feedback is very welcome.

If you don't mind me asking, what is the Piezo mod?

I am confused. I want to use the ER9x speaker eventually for voice annunciation of alarms and other events but expect that the little piezo buzzer will still work to tell me when certain events occur. I just yesterday installed a voltage regulator and transistor to operate the buzzer on my Tx On/Off switch PC board expecting it to be needed. Is it replaced by the speaker?

Steve

PS. I found this link
http://9xforums.com/wiki/index.php/S...aptic_Feedback
I have not done this modification - don't really understand why anyone would do it either - so I conclude that I need to cut the red jumper wire on the ErSky 9x board. Is that correct?
S
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Last edited by Mutchy; Aug 28, 2012 at 08:09 AM. Reason: PS added
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Old Aug 28, 2012, 09:07 AM
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Canada, ON, Cochrane District
Joined Oct 2011
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Correct, cut that little red wire.

The piezo mod was to replace the buzzer with a speaker, giving you a fuller range of sound.

With the Skyboard, you don't need that. Nor do you require the the piezo buzzer. All the alert sounds come through the speaker. The menu clicks, alerts, voice, all come through the speaker port on the skyboard. And the voice alerts are nice.

All the speaker settings are in the setup menu, you can choose, piezo , speaker, piezo voice (don't understand that one) or speaker voice (that gives you everything, voice, alerts, whatever firmware alerts that need to be played)

Just wait until we get the co-processor functioning, another 11 possible in/outs... or is it 12... yeah...
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Old Aug 28, 2012, 04:17 PM
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Wollongong Australia
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Thanks Leo. Your description is a revelation!
Steve
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