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Old Jul 18, 2012, 02:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Ricardo Trevisan View Post
OK I really liked your project ........

But I will make it a radio, with ergometry .... perfect .... keys within easy reach and a very good support in the sticks ... to put it here in the forum in Brazil a question ....

What is the correct way to hold the sticks the Radio?

well with an idea of what I'm searching, and I want a radio that you can use for a long time .....

I'm following the project ..... congratulations .....
Hello Ricardo.

Thank you for your kind words.

I hold the stocks on my tray radio between my thumb and first finger. I use a long extension on each stick.

In case I did not understand your question properly, the sticks will be held onto the top by four socket head screws. There will be a hole moulded into the surface with a flange to the inside which will locate the stick a little lower than the top surface and maybe allow the screw heads to be countersunk.

I hope I have explained myself clearly.

Steve
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Old Jul 23, 2012, 02:54 AM
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The plug fabrication and shaping is finished. The base board for making the moulds is also finished with three dowel holes to take the dowels used for locating the top and bottom halves of the plug. In the pictures below you can see the complete plug, the top and bottom halves and some of the things I had to make to shape the plug. There are two templates used with the router as guides and a sanding block for shaping the concave face of the plug. I have a lot of test and practice pieces made while learning to use the router. You could make a serious mistake very rapidly with one of those......

To strengthen the top surface of the transmitter I decided to mould in flanges for the stick apertures and the screen aperture. The switch aperture is large enough to accept the FlySky/Turnigy/Eurgle/Etc 9x switch slider for anyone who wishes to use all or some of the parts from a FlySky/Turnigy/Eurgle/Etc 9x hand held transmitter. It will also be deep enough to provide some protection against accidentally turning the switch off in flight. Its also big enough to use a rocker or other design of on/off with as long as it's double pole double throw.

Now to finish sanding and filling the surfaces of the plug. I plan to use Shellac to seal the timber and polish it to a shiny finish.

Steve
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Old Jul 30, 2012, 07:50 AM
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The plugs are now sealed and (French) polished with Shellac. The finish must be allowed to harden for a few days so while they do that I will make the digital trim circuit boards with four momentary switches each with their part of the wiring harness attached. Then It's time to make the top and bottom moulds for the case.
Steve
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Old Jul 30, 2012, 08:42 AM
working to the closest cm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mutchy View Post
The plugs are now sealed and (French) polished with Shellac. The finish must be allowed to harden for a few days so while they do that I will make the digital trim circuit boards with four momentary switches each with their part of the wiring harness attached. Then It's time to make the top and bottom moulds for the case.
Steve
Looking very nice Steve
Cheers Jeff
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Old Aug 01, 2012, 03:40 AM
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Here's the first digital trim board. It's made from Veroboard with four 'push to make contact' switches which are the printed circuit mount types.
Because the JR 388 I started with has analogue trims - i.e. potentiometer type I decided to use a cross shaped arrangement of push buttons like the Jeti Tx to match the ErSky9x hardware and Er9x firmware. If you are using parts from a Turnigy/FlySky/Eurgle/etc Tx then you merely plug the existing harnesses into the ERSky 9x motherboard.
The green dots are the ends of the legs of the push button switches. The red lines are the jumpers on the other side of the board. The switches are held in place at the correct depth, square and true using a piece of modelling clay (also known as Plasticene in some places)
Cheers
Steve
PS It's important to orient the switches correctly. Because the legs are in a square plan form it's easy to get disoriented.
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Last edited by Mutchy; Aug 01, 2012 at 03:48 AM. Reason: PS added
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Old Aug 04, 2012, 06:10 PM
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HI
Dear friend my research in Brazil found that the practice of the hobby,

There are two riding styles, the two fingers holding the oldest rookies in the hobby and use as the game PS supporting the fingers on the sticks ....
Then I killed a doubt ...
Now I have the housing for mold ..... use the experience of games and most of the old let's see what comes out of the mold.

Thank you
Mr. Trevisan
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Old Aug 09, 2012, 06:27 AM
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Progressed today on the mould for the top of the Tx case. The fibreglass popped off the plug with only two bubbles. Three coats of PVA mould release ensured that the plug was undamaged. The red stuff is modelling clay to fill gaps which would otherwise have caused the glass to lock under the plug or leak into the stick cavity.
Steve
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Old Aug 09, 2012, 06:47 AM
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Outstanding!

Hey, did you check out the rotary encoder/directional buttons that were posted on the 9xforums,

http://9xforums.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=1239

http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/search/pro...sp?sku=1908271

Have a few on order. Should be useful I think.
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Old Aug 09, 2012, 05:48 PM
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Originally Posted by cr8tive_leo View Post
Outstanding!

Hey, did you check out the rotary encoder/directional buttons that were posted on the 9xforums,

http://9xforums.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=1239

http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/search/pro...sp?sku=1908271

Have a few on order. Should be useful I think.
Hi Leo.
No I didn't see them but I followed your links. If it needs code then I am lost. I find that I don't use trims as often as I used to now that I fly ER9x for almost all my planes. I set the TRN momentary switch to activate all trims at once unless I am trimming a model into a thermal turn so I can take my hands off the sticks while the model goes around.

Steve
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Old Aug 09, 2012, 08:31 PM
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The frame is glued onto the top mould for support. It is partly filled with a dry sand and epoxy mixture to give the mould rigidity and is about to go into the "oven". The plug is left in the mould to maintain it's shape while the epoxy cures.
Steve
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Old Aug 11, 2012, 01:31 AM
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Top mould now cured and polished with 1000 grade wet and dry paper. The gel coat being white and the brown sand behind the clear parts of the fibreglass are a bit confusing, I know. Sand is cheaper than gel coat....
Steve
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Old Aug 11, 2012, 05:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Mutchy View Post
Hi Leo.
No I didn't see them but I followed your links. If it needs code then I am lost. I find that I don't use trims as often as I used to now that I fly ER9x for almost all my planes. I set the TRN momentary switch to activate all trims at once unless I am trimming a model into a thermal turn so I can take my hands off the sticks while the model goes around.

Steve
Only the directional button replacement, it has a rotary encoder wheel, centre push button and the four directional buttons...

The new trims , nah, happy with the ones we have, and i do the same, much easier.

Can't wait to see the final product!
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Old Aug 16, 2012, 03:34 AM
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The mould for the transmitter case bottom is now finished.
The next thing to make is the 10 mm thick plate which goes over the top mould against which to lay up the flange.
Steve
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Old Aug 21, 2012, 11:58 PM
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Being unsure of how thick the fibreglass will be I have not yet made the frame for making the flange, but the first parts for the case are now moulded.

The quality of the top is very poor. It has many bubbles compared to the bottom which has two only. When moulding the bottom I let the gel coat partly cure until tacky and then started laying in the glass cloth. When moulding the top I had a lot of gel coat left over so decided to start laying up immediately. I won't do that again. The integrity of the gel coat was destroyed by the extra work of laying up the first layer of glass cloth.

Both parts consist of Araldite LY 3600 Epoxy resin, Aradur 3600 hardener, a gel coat of West Systems 411 colloidal silica and microballoons mix, one layer of crows foot weave 60 oz/sq.m. glass cloth, and three layers of plain wave 110 gm/sq.m. glass cloth.

The case is light but has sufficient rigidity when the top and bottom are taped together to have a satisfactory feel when handling it. However to give a better feel and provide a better base for the electronic components the top should be thicker.

So the first top part of the case will be used for assembly of the electronics and positioning of the switches. I may need to reposition a few things, and I may make a mistake or two so it won't be filled or finished. A second, heavier top part will hopefully have fewer bubbles be easier to finish and paint and will have the final switch positions. And while it is being made I can get on with the electronics.

Steve
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Last edited by Mutchy; Aug 22, 2012 at 12:03 AM.
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Old Aug 22, 2012, 03:20 PM
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Looks great!!! NICE!

Love the Yellow on the Gimbal.
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