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Old Nov 07, 2012, 08:48 PM
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Joined Aug 2012
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I just re did mine with a torque 20t/1030 and a cam 10x8 prop. amperage draw in equal to or less then factory i'm sure. I haven't tested amp draw with the 10x8 yet but was only pulling 12-13 max with a 9x5 and I was pulling 18 with the factory motor. The pull is great with this new setup, twice factory for sure.
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Old Nov 12, 2012, 01:09 AM
New bee to the sport.
Joined Nov 2012
5 Posts
Few question for those out there with a Calypso. Can please tell me where your CG is located along with your decledge changes. I bought a RTF how far can I expect the range the radio will guide the glider. Thanks for your help in me learning my new sport.
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Old Nov 12, 2012, 05:21 AM
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Oklahoma
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Glidertech View Post
Few question for those out there with a Calypso. Can please tell me where your CG is located along with your decledge changes. I bought a RTF how far can I expect the range the radio will guide the glider. Thanks for your help in me learning my new sport.
CG ~1/4 inch forward of the spar visible on the bottom of the wing.
Rear of horizontal stabilizer shimmed 1/8".

Others can speak to the range of the Tx-ready system.

Have fun with your glider!

Dave
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Old Nov 12, 2012, 06:49 AM
....left up, right down !!!
ory69's Avatar
United States, OR, Depoe Bay
Joined Nov 2010
75 Posts
Range

Quote:
Originally Posted by Glidertech View Post
Few question for those out there with a Calypso. Can please tell me where your CG is located along with your decledge changes. I bought a RTF how far can I expect the range the radio will guide the glider. Thanks for your help in me learning my new sport.
If you are truly new to this sport, I can offer meager answers. If you are a bit experienced, then you already know what I do.

If your plane has a standard transmitter and standard receiver you will have enough range to LOSE that airplane while still under control. In other words, you can fly as far out and as high as you would dare while still being able to see its flight attitude.

If you have the Tactic brand "Anylink" set-up, your range will be slightly less, but I am told it will still allow you to have control while at nearly the limits of flight attitude visibility. Others ?......
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Old Nov 14, 2012, 01:00 PM
The Big Pimimo
Mismi
Joined Feb 2008
2 Posts
This is my Calypso flying ...
Calypso First Flight... (10 min 3 sec)

Enjoy...
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Old Nov 15, 2012, 02:26 AM
New bee to the sport.
Joined Nov 2012
5 Posts
Well my glider arrived from KY today. I had bought it while on business and shipped it to my next stop here in Fresno. I will set it up in the morning and look to try my hand at getting this thing trimmed and ready for a successful first flight. Thank you for the answers to my radio range an cg questions. I'm sure I will have many more to come.
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Old Nov 18, 2012, 09:34 PM
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United States, PA, West Chester
Joined May 2012
114 Posts
This weekend I added approx 1/8" shim to the aft side of the horizontal stab as others suggested here to alleviate the sharp pitch down with power off. I just used two small pieces of balsa CA'd together and then CA'd to the aft portion of the horizontal stab to decrease the angle of incidence and it DOES make a difference in flight.

With power on I had to take away some of the up elevator trim and when I brought power back (not too quick), the nose did not drop as before. I guess the best way to put it is the plane "sailed" with power off, instead of me working the elevator in some balancing act to maintain forward tracking without losing so much altitude. A huge thank you to those suggesting this mod in this thread, I was happy with this purchase before and after this evening's flight I'm very happy!
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Old Nov 18, 2012, 09:45 PM
DragonLINK UHF only!!!!
Joined Feb 2011
1,220 Posts
....what motor/prop upgrade are you guys using?

I saw the video on there website and its grossly underpowered....
Thanks!

(I had a Radian with custom motor mounts for upgraded motor,
does the Calypso need a custom motor mount for upgraded motor?)

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1361677
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Old Nov 18, 2012, 10:44 PM
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Great news, Citationfxr. This bird floats very nicely. I have also found that slowly reducing throttle gets rid of the rest of the pitching down.

I don't think the Calypso is underpowered, LexusFPV. It won't set any time to height records but the stock motor seems more than adequate. And I say that despite the fact that I have a Specter 1800 that will climb nearly out of sight in 10 seconds. If you want a screaming climb then the KD A22-20L I use in the Specter would be hard to beat but you would probably have to add a few grams of weight, in addition to the aforementioned shim, in the tail. My best climb rate came with an 11X6" prop, that I keep breaking on the only rock in the landing area, but just about anything between 9 and 11 inches will work just fine. However, with anything over a 9 inch prop, you will need at least a 30amp ESC. The motor itself might even handle a 12 inch prop but I haven't tried it myself.

Here's a link to the only place I know that currently has the motor in stock.

http://www.giantshark.co.uk/a22l20l-...otor-p-49.html

The stock motor mount is a bit flimsy but it has standard hole placement. I fixed the mount for my buddy, after he hit a tree, by doubling it with 1/32" plywood and epoxy and it's been good since then.
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Old Nov 19, 2012, 11:19 AM
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Joined Oct 2011
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I got a Rx-R version. The interesting thing is the 3.5mm connectors on the ESC's battery side are both male. I was told by Flyzone that the battery sold by Flyzone would have two female connectors. I thought for 3.5mm or 4.0mm connector, because all the metal connectors are shielded by the plastic cover, it should have one male and one female within the plastic cover?
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Old Nov 19, 2012, 12:14 PM
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Oklahoma
Joined Sep 2010
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Originally Posted by GTstrudl View Post
I got a Rx-R version. The interesting thing is the 3.5mm connectors on the ESC's battery side are both male. I was told by Flyzone that the battery sold by Flyzone would have two female connectors. I thought for 3.5mm or 4.0mm connector, because all the metal connectors are shielded by the plastic cover, it should have one male and one female within the plastic cover?
RC batteries always have female connectors. The plastic connector housings may have a "male" and "female" side (e.g. EC3), but the actual connectors are always female.
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Old Nov 19, 2012, 12:51 PM
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Originally Posted by ombudsman View Post
RC batteries always have female connectors. The plastic connector housings may have a "male" and "female" side (e.g. EC3), but the actual connectors are always female.
Just look at the attached photo. The ESC has one female and one male connector. The battery has the same thing. I understand that as for electrical connection concern, it doesn't make any difference.
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Old Nov 19, 2012, 01:31 PM
semper mitis
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Paducah, Kentucky
Joined Nov 2004
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Those type connectors are just a ploy to try to lock in use of Parkzone batteries. Since those batteries are a little rich for my blood, the speed controller gets it's a connector clipped and the appropriate Dean's connector/ T connector is soldered in. I have adapters that will fit in between all of the batteries that I purchase. The adapters are ridiculously easy to make.
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Old Nov 19, 2012, 01:39 PM
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My very first LiPo came with 4mm bullet connectors so I just decided that I would go with them for all my batteries and ESCs. Then i discovered that the plastic housings differ just a bit between brands. So? I use the bullet connectors with shrink tube instead of the plastic housings. This works out beautifully because it saves a bit of bulk and one can even run the wires along opposite sides of the battery or anything else in the way.
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Old Nov 19, 2012, 03:15 PM
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Originally Posted by GTstrudl View Post
Just look at the attached photo. The ESC has one female and one male connector. The battery has the same thing. I understand that as for electrical connection concern, it doesn't make any difference.
Actually, the connector housing on the battery is female even though there is one male pin and one female socket inside the housing to maintain polarity. The point is to have the pins covered to help prevent shorting out the live battery pins although I believe the style of housings in your picture cover the pins in either case. On the more common deans connectors, the pins are fully exposed on one half of the mating pair.
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