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Jun 24, 2012, 03:35 AM
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Melbourne, Australia
Joined Aug 2007
3,572 Posts
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Skywing, Winner's Model, Hokusei, 3DHS 48"-55" EPP Build & Repair Tips
The current status of this thread is: under development
1 - Purpose The idea of this thread is to capture in a single location a lot of the useful hints and tips for building or repairing various planes of this general design from a number of companies. We hope that the info in this thread will be useful to people building or repairing the following planes: Skywing - 48" MXS EPP - 48" Extra 300L EPP - 48" Sbach 342 EPP - 48" Yak 54 EPP - 48" Scale Edge EPP (this plane is also sold with different colour schemes as a Wattaplane and a Hokusei 48" Scale Edge EPP) - 48" Scale Slick EPP (this plane is also sold with different colour schemes as a Wattaplane 48" Scale Slick EPP) - 55" Scale Yak 54 EPP (this plane is also sold with different colour schemes as a Wattaplane 55" Scale Yak 54 EPP) Winner's Model - 48" Extra 330LX SEPP - 49" Yak 55 SEPP - 55" Slick 360 SEPP Hokusei - 48" Ultima HV EPP 3DHS - 48" EPP Extra 330SC - 48" EPP Yak 54 Future Model - 47" Scale Sbach EPP - 48" Scale Katana EPP There are a number of other planes that are closely related, such as some smaller Skywing and Winner's Model planes and some Hokusei planes of similar size that are built using similar techniques. You may find these hints and tips to be useful for those planes as well. To keep this thread simple, Nac and I will focus on documenting the way that we build these sorts of planes. There are a number of different ways to build them, and we have tried some of these ourselves, so we will probably cover some of them to give a few options to suit different peoples' preferences. We don't plan to cover every possible method that is out there. It will take us a while to get this thread looking the way we intend it to look. We have day jobs, family commitments and we still like to build and fly our planes, so please be patient. Thanks  .
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Last edited by groovejet; Mar 30, 2013 at 07:48 PM.
Reason: added a new photo
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Jun 24, 2012, 03:37 AM
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Melbourne, Australia
Joined Aug 2007
3,572 Posts
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4 - Components - A Summary of the Recommended Components
48 Inch Planes Motor 3542 class brushless outrunner motor, 130g – 170g approx., 850kV – 1000kV, 400W – 500w approx. More info here: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...46&postcount=5 Note: Motors that are around 130g in weight are a bit light for the Winner's Model 48" Extra 330LX SEPP, Future Model 47" Scale Sbach EPP and Future Model 48" Scale Katana EPP on 3 cell packs. Aim for 140g+ and consider using a spinner. Propeller APC 12x6E, 13x6.5E, 14x7E propeller, depending on the motor’s kV and power capability. More info here: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...46&postcount=5 ESC 40A -50A approx. ESC More info here: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...49&postcount=6 Servos 12g – 16g servos with metal gears. More info here: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...51&postcount=7 Battery 3S 2200mAh 25C (or higher C rating) 170g – 220g approx. 4 cell lipos can be used on some of these planes, though most users prefer 3 cell. More info here: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...54&postcount=8 55 Inch Planes TBD |
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Last edited by groovejet; May 31, 2013 at 01:09 AM.
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Jun 24, 2012, 03:37 AM
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Melbourne, Australia
Joined Aug 2007
3,572 Posts
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5 - Components - Motors and Propellers
48 Inch Planes Nac and I use a few different power setups on our 48" planes. Scorpion 3020-890 motor with an APC 13x6.5E prop This is our favourite setup and we use it on most of our planes. This setup is very powerful and is also very efficient, so our batteries do not have to work as hard as on some other setups and even after 6 minutes of 3D flying, the batteries still have good punch. Using our Turnigy 3S2200 40C lipos, with the Turnigy Plush 40A ESC set to high timing, this setup draws 40A and produces about 2.36KG of thrust in our static tests. A Vox 14x7 wood prop gives more thrust at higher amps (45A approx.), but in our experience, the wood prop is less likely to break in a crash and so watch out for hard nose-ins! An APC 14x7E prop can be used for extra thrust, but you will need an ESC and lipos that are capable of handling the extra current demands (50A approx). You will also need to avoid using too much full throttle as it may overheat the motor. Check the motor temperature to be sure. Here's a link to the motor: http://www.scorpionsystem.com/catalo...II-3020-890KV/ Scorpion 3020-780 motor with an APC 14x7E prop This combo is very similar to the Scorpion 3020-890 and APC 13x6.5E combo, but with an extra inch of prop. The thrust is very similar, but this 780 kV motor draws slightly less amps. I bought one of these motors at a time when the 3020-890 motor was unavailable and I was not disappointed. Hengli 3542-850 motor with an APC 13x6.5E prop This motor was custom designed for the Skywing 48" EPP planes, which means it's suitable for use with all of the planes listed in the first post on this thread. This is a good setup that is much cheaper than the Scorpion setup. We use this setup on a few of our planes. Using our Turnigy 3S2200 40C lipos, with the Turnigy Plush 40A ESC set to high timing, this setup draws 42A and produces about 2.2KG of thrust in our static tests. Here's a link to the motor: http://www.bestvaluerc.com/shop/shopexd.asp?id=351 Note: This motor is a bit light for the Winner's Extra 330LX on 3 cell packs. Aim for 140g+ and consider using a spinner. Dualsky 3542EA-5 950kV motor with either an APC 12x6E prop or an APC 13x6.5E prop Nac and I decided to buy 2 of these motors to evaluate. The first shipment of these motors was lost in the post and by the time the replacement shipment had arrived, I had sold some planes airframe-only and freed up some motors, so I no longer needed my Dualsky motor and have sold it. Nac has done some preliminary tests with his Dualsky motor using an APC style 12x6E prop and the motor has good power at reasonable amps. Using a Turnigy Plush 40A ESC, it seemed to work best on low timing to avoid high amps that didn't really make a noticeable difference on vertical climbs. Running the Dualsky motor with an APC 12x6E prop on low timing gave a similar climb rate to a Scorpion 3020-890 with an APC 13x6.5E prop on high timing. We haven't checked the amps on low timing yet. The amps on high timing were higher than the Scorpion setup in static tests. Here's a link to the motor: http://www.dualsky.com/pro_list_for....lid=146&id=502 Turnigy 3542 SK 1000kV motor with an APC 12x6E prop We used this setup on some of our earliest Skywing planes and it featured in some of our videos. It was a reasonable low-cost option, but we definately prefer the Scorpion and Hengli setups that haul these planes around at much lower amps. This Turnigy motor has now been replaced by the Turnigy 3542 SK3 1000kV motor, which we haven't tried. Nac and I have not had great experiences using Hobby King motors, so we now avoid using them. AX Brushless Outrunner Motor AX3715-820 This motor is available as a combo with the Skywing 48" kits sold by bestvaluerc.com. Nac and I don't have any personal experience with this setup. Here's a link to the motor: http://www.bestvaluerc.com/shop/shopexd.asp?id=308 Note: This motor is a bit light for the Winner's Extra 330LX on 3 cell packs. Aim for 140g+ and consider using a spinner. AX Brushless Outrunner Motor AX3715-1000 This motor is available as a combo with the Skywing 48" kits sold by bestvaluerc.com. Nac and I don't have any personal experience with this setup. Here's a link to the motor: http://www.bestvaluerc.com/shop/shopexd.asp?id=309 Note: This motor is a bit light for the Winner's Extra 330LX on 3 cell packs. Aim for 140g+ and consider using a spinner. Omega 130g 870kV motor Nac and I don't have any personal experience with this setup, but many others are very happy with it. Here's a link to the motor: http://www.3dhobbyshop.com/Omega-130...r_p_15517.html Note: This motor is a bit light for the Winner's Extra 330LX on 3 cell packs. Aim for 140g+ and consider using a spinner. Motrolfly xxx motor Nac and I don't have any personal experience with this setup, but many others are very happy with it. Here's a link to Motrolfly's motors: http://www.motrolfly.com/product.asp?lb=17 More motor options here: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...1#post23778515 55 Inch Planes TBD |
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Last edited by groovejet; Mar 30, 2013 at 07:29 PM.
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Jun 24, 2012, 03:38 AM
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Melbourne, Australia
Joined Aug 2007
3,572 Posts
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6 - Components - ESCs
48 Inch Planes Nac and I use Turnigy Plush 40amp ESCs in these planes. This ESC can easily handle 40A, with a burst rating of up to 55A. It has a built-in 5v BEC that is claimed to be capable of 3A. The ESC is programmable with either the radio or a programming card. The programming card greatly simplifies setting up this ESC, so we recommend that you get one of those. The only setting that we change from the factory defaults is the motor timing. We set this to an appropriate value based on the motor that we are using. More info on motor timing is provided in the Electronics section later on. Here's a link to the Turnigy Plush 40A ESC on Hobby King's website: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idproduct=2165 Here's a link to the Turnigy programming card on Hobby King's website: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=2169 There is another Turnigy ESC that is closely related, called the Turnigy Sentry 40A. It is essentially a Turnigy Plush 40A ESC with a balance lead to monitor individual cell voltages during flight. You can buy the Sentry version and cut off the balance lead to essentially turn it into a Plush version. If you cut off the balance lead, make sure that the individual wires are insulated to avoid them shorting out on each other. This ESC is also sold as a Hobbywing Pentium 40A, which seems to be the OEM version. Nac and I have been using TURNIGY Plush ESCs in various sizes for several years. They have proven to be very reliable and their ratings seem honest, as we have pushed them very hard in some applications. The BEC ratings seem honest and we have never had a BEC overload as far as we can tell when using these ESCs. Note: It is necessary to set the ESC's throttle travel limits to suit your radio before your first flight. Refer to the instructions that come with the ESC for details. Some of the time you will get away with skipping this step, but it will generally lead to less throttle smoothness and a "dead spot" near minimum throttle before the motor starts to spool. In extreme cases it can also lead to the motor "glitching" at low throttle positions. 55 Inch Planes TBD |
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Last edited by groovejet; Nov 30, 2012 at 08:45 PM.
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Jun 24, 2012, 03:38 AM
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Melbourne, Australia
Joined Aug 2007
3,572 Posts
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7 - Components - Servos
48 Inch Planes Hextronik MG-14 Nac and I mostly use Hextronik MG-14 Metal gear servos, but these servos have been out of stock for months. We haven't seen any official announcement on whether they have been discontinued, but we are playing it safe and exploring a few other options. At just over 14g, we have found the inexpensive MG-14 servos to perform quite well. We use the middle servo arm that is shown in the attached MG-14 photo and add a longer carbon fibre arm to it to get large control surface throws. Here's a link to the MG-14 servo on Hobby King's website: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbycity/s...idProduct=8303 Here's a link to the carbon fibre arms that we use to get large control surface throws: http://www.bestvaluerc.com/shop/shopexd.asp?id=231 More info on using the MG-14 servos with the carbon fibre arms is provided in the build steps. I am pretty sure that the Towerpro MG90 servo is the same as the MG-14 servo, though I have never seen or used a Towerpro MG90. Hitec HS65MG Another good option is the Hitec HS65MG servo. TBD Here's a link to the Hitec HS65MG servo: http://www.hitecrcd.com/products/ana...i/hs-65mg.html Turnigy 2216MG I am currently trying some Turnigy 2216MG servos. Their speed and strength is better than that of the MG-14 servos, though they are $10 USD dearer per servo before you consider postage (which seems excessive for the 2216 servo BTW). Nac and I have been using these servos for a few months and we are very happy with them. For now at least, these are my servos of choice. Note: It seems to be a re-badged PowerHD 2216MG servo. I have used both "brands" and the look and perform identically. Here's a link to the Turnigy 2216MG servo: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idproduct=6607 55 Inch Planes TBD |
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Last edited by groovejet; Mar 30, 2013 at 07:31 PM.
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Jun 24, 2012, 03:39 AM
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Melbourne, Australia
Joined Aug 2007
3,572 Posts
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8 - Components - Batteries
48 Inch Planes Nac and I have been using cheap Turnigy 3S2200mAh 40C lipos. Realistically, they perform more like an honest 25C lipo, but since we use power setups that run at 20C or lower at continuous full throttle, they perform very well. We get a full 6 minutes of aggressive 3D, and can fly for much longer if flying in a more relaxed manner. Here's a link to the lipos in Hobby King's Hong Kong warehouse: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dproduct=10279 We usually buy them from the Hobby King Australian warehouse: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dproduct=14707 See those links for battery dimensions and weight. 55 Inch Planes TBD |
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Last edited by groovejet; Nov 30, 2012 at 08:46 PM.
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Jun 24, 2012, 03:39 AM
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Melbourne, Australia
Joined Aug 2007
3,572 Posts
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9 - Preparation - Required Tools and Equipment
- A clear work area with a place to leave parts to dry overnight. - CA (thin and medium/thick). - CA kicker (optional). - Polyurethane glue. - Masking tape. - 3M Scotch 6225N glue (optional). - Thread lock (or medium/thick CA). - Fine sharp blade. - Philips head screw drivers (small and large). - Hex driver 1.5mm. - Drill and drill bits. - Icy pole (popsicle) sticks (for spreading glue and for repairs). - Wire cutters. - Tape measure and ruler. |
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Last edited by groovejet; Jun 28, 2012 at 03:35 AM.
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Jun 24, 2012, 03:40 AM
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Melbourne, Australia
Joined Aug 2007
3,572 Posts
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10 - Preparation - Glue
WARNING Although these kits are generally described as EPP planes, they use other types of foam in a few places. The glue that you use must be compatible with these various types of foam to avoid eating the foam if the wrong type of glue comes into contact with it. Here is a quick summary of the different foam types used in various parts of these airframes: Main Wing The Skywing, Wattaplane, Winner's Model, Hokusei and 3DHS planes all have an EPS foam core covered with EPP foam. Ailerons The Skywing, Wattaplane, Winner's Model, Hokusei and 3DHS planes all have an EPS foam core covered with EPP foam. Fuselage Including Tail The Skywing, Wattaplane, Winner's Model, Hokusei and 3DHS planes use just EPP foam in the fuselage and tail. Rudder The Skywing/Wattaplane/Hokusei 48" Scale Edge EPP, Winner's Model 48" Extra SEPP and Winner's Model 55" Slick 360 SEPP have an EPS foam core that is covered with EPP foam. The other Skywing, Hokusei and 3DHS planes have a Depron foam core that is covered with EPP foam on the top and bottom, but not on the sides. The Depron is visible if you look at the end of these surfaces. Horizontal Stabiliser and Elevator: The Skywing/Wattaplane/Hokusei 48" Scale Edge EPP, Winner's Model 48" Extra SEPP and Winner's Model 55" Slick 360 SEPP have an EPS foam core that is covered with EPP foam. The other Skywing, Hokusei and 3DHS planes have a Depron foam core that is covered with EPP foam on the top and bottom, but not on the sides. The Depron is visible if you look at the end of these surfaces. If you didn't read the warning above, please do so now. Nac and I will share our thoughts on various types of glue and how we like to use them. Note that if your plane kit comes with instructions, it may advise you to use different types of glue to what we use. That's OK. We've built several of these kits by following the manufacturer's instructions and they work fine. In the long-run though, we have noticed disadvantages to some of the glues recommended by the manufacturers and we have found better alternatives. Thin CA Most of these planes can be fully or almost fully built using CA, but we have found alternative types of glue that we prefer in almost every situation. The only situation where we use thin CA is to soak it into wood to strengthen it. Be warned that there are foam types other than EPP in these kits and regular CA will eat it if you are not careful. Medium or Thick CA I like to use thick CA to lock my EZ connector nuts in place. Nac likes to use Loctite for this. TBD CA Accelerant (Kicker) TBD Foam-safe CA We don't like this glue, so we use alternatives. Polyurethane Glue This is excellent for strengthening wood. We use it to reinforce the landing gear mounts. TBD PVA (White Carpenter's Glue) TBD 3M Scotch 6225N This is our favourite glue by far. It's the best we've ever tried for EPP, and it works really well on Depron too (it will soften the Depron during the curing process but once it is fully dry the Depron will be very strong). Do not use Scotch 6225N on EPS or it will eat the foam. Scotch 6225N glue is a gel, so you can safely use it on the EPP layers without fear of it soaking through the EPP and eating the EPS wing core in the way that thin CA does. We buy our 3M Scotch 6225N glue from here: http://www.bestvaluerc.com/shop/shopexd.asp?id=218 Important: If you plan to buy 3M Scotch 6225N glue, make sure you buy tubes that have a black lid. The tubes with a black lid are made in Japan. There is also a version of 3M Scotch 6225N that has a white lid. This version is made in Taiwan and, despite having the same name, it is not the same product. It will work more or less, but is definitely inferior to the version with a black lid in various ways. Make sure you check before buying that you are getting the Japanese version that has a black lid. bestvaluerc.com currently only sell the Japanese version with a black lid and the product listing I linked to above declares that it is the Japanese glue. Epoxy TBD UHU Por TBD Welders TBD |
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Last edited by groovejet; Feb 01, 2013 at 03:11 PM.
Reason: typos
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Jun 24, 2012, 03:41 AM
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Melbourne, Australia
Joined Aug 2007
3,572 Posts
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11 - Preparation - A Summary of Some Suggested Mods
This is a summary of various mods that you may wish to do whilst building the plane. The details of the mods are contained within the build instructions themself. Strengthen Wood with CA You can soak thin CA into the wood to strengthen it. This is perhaps most useful on the motor firewall and the nose area of the plane, but also consider doing it where the wing tube sleeve joins the fuselage on both sides. Convert a Scale Plane that Uses Carbon Fibre Landing Gear to Wire Landing Gear Buy this http://www.bestvaluerc.com/shop/shopexd.asp?id=398 and check the pics and text on a later post for details on how to do this. Strengthen the Landing Gear Mount The landing gear mount on the Skywing, Hokusei and 3DHS planes is not particularly strong and benefits from a mod to strengthen it. The Winner's Model Extra 330LX seems to have a stronger landing gear mount, but also can be strengthened in the same way as the other kits. We strengthen the landing gear mount by coating the landing gear mount wood with polyurethane glue on both sides, as well as in the landing gear slot itself. Another option used by others is to add a cross-brace to the landing gear legs; the idea here is to stop the landing gear legs from spreading and cracking the landing gear mount wood. Enlarge the Motor Hole in the Nose We sometimes do this, not to increase airflow, but to provide better access to the screws that attach the motor to the firewall. Wheels Wheels with a large diameter are useful when flying from rough fields. The 48" Skywing, Hokusei and 3DHS kits, plus the Winner's Model 55" Slick 360 kit come with large wheels, so these should be fine. The Winner's Model 48" and 49" kits come with smaller wheels, so you may wish to consider installing larger wheels on these kits. Stiffen the Foam Near the Servo Mounts to Reduce Flex A thin coating of 3M Scotch 6225N glue on the foam surrounding the servo mounting frames will stiffen the foam and reduce flex. Stiffen the Foam in Some Heavy Wear Areas to Prevent Delamination A thin coating of 3M Scotch 6225N glue on the foam joins in areas such as the aileron wingtips and the base of the rudder will prevent or seriously reduce foam delamination. Paint TBD Wheel Pants You can add some "bling" to your 48" Skywing, Winner's Model or Hokusei kit by fitting some wheel pants. The 48" Skywing, Winner's Model and Hokusei kits do not include wheel plants, so you need to buy them separately: http://www.bestvaluerc.com/shop/shopexd.asp?id=346 The 48" 3DHS plane kits include wheel pants. Control Surfaces VR Eyedoc suggests the following mods: 1. Gluing CF strips along all trailing edges, both side faces of ailerons and bottom of rudder. The result is significant increase in stiffness of all control surfaces. especially the ailerons and rudder, they are now rock solid down to the corners. 2. Sealing all hinge gaps with 3M Blenderm tape. This mod is probably unneccessary for those who don't leave hinge gaps on skywing planes. See this post for more detail on VR Eyedoc's suggested mods, including photos: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=286 |
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Last edited by groovejet; May 30, 2013 at 10:10 PM.
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Jun 24, 2012, 03:41 AM
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Melbourne, Australia
Joined Aug 2007
3,572 Posts
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12 - Build - Fuselage and Landing Gear
TBD Fuselage a. Use some thin and medium CA to strengthen the wood areas around the motor mount and battery compartment (PVA would also work well). b. Using the servos as a guide, drill the holes for the servo screws. Screw the screws into the wood and then remove them. Add a drop of thin CA to each hole. Landing gear c. On most models you may need to cut open an access hole or flap on the bottom of the fuse just behind the landing gear. d. Place a few strips of masking tape around the wire slot to protect the EPP from getting covered in PU glue. e. Using an icy pole stick spread PU glue to both in front and behind the landing gear. You only need a thin layer, pay special attention to covering where the wood meets the EPP foam. f. Put some more PU glue into the wire slot; insert the wire landing gear and then a little more PU before finally inserting the wood plug. g. You will need to keep monitoring and rotating the fuse until the glue has finished foaming up. h. Once the PU is fully cured you can trim any excess UP glue with a sharp blade. i. Attach wheels to the landing gear wire. Refer to the pictures below for examples of strengthening the landing gear mount on a Winner's Model 48" Extra 330 LX SEPP and on a Future Model scale 47" Sbach EPP. The method used on the Winner's Model flat fuselage plane works on all flat fuselage planes. The method used on the Future Model scale plane works on all scale EPP planes. IMPORTANT TIP FOR THE SCALE EPP PLANE GEAR MOUNT MOD The gear mount top wood plate may need to be modified to ensure that it fits correctly. You may need to trim a bit off either side and you may need to enlarge the cutouts where the wire gear legs will go through. Refer to the pictures below to see how it fits together and test fit all pieces before smearing messy polyurethane glue on them and finding that they don't fit together!
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Last edited by groovejet; May 31, 2013 at 01:08 AM.
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Jun 24, 2012, 03:44 AM
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Melbourne, Australia
Joined Aug 2007
3,572 Posts
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13 - Build - Main Wings and Ailerons
TBD a. Add a few drops of either med CA or Scotch glue into the holes for the “J” hooks, screw in the wire hooks until the thread is no longer visible. Check that they are oriented correctly and leave to dry. NOTE: be careful when dropping CA into the holes as it can melt the wing core. b. Using the servos as a guide, drill the holes for the servo screws. Screw the screws into the wood and then remove them. Add a drop of thin CA to each hole. c. In some cases the wood servo mount can be a bit loose and not securely glued to the EPP, if required use some Scotch glue around the edges of the wood and EPP skin to ensure the servo will not move. d. If required enlarge the second outer plastic horn holes to allow the Z bend wire to fit correctly, without being too tight or too loose. There are several ways to enlarge the holes here are a few examples: - • Use an exact sized drill bit to enlarge the hole. • Heat up one of the control rod wires (but not too much) using a flame and push it through the second outer hole. • Using a sharp pointy blade slowly rotate in the hole to open it up slightly. e. Attach the horns to the ailerons using Scotch glue. Also spread some extra Scotch glue around the horn and wood after it has been inserted. Warning, we would recommend against using CA on any of the control surfaces, as it can eat the foam core. f. Test fit the ailerons, and if required deepen the hinge slots with a sharp blade. g. Squeeze some Scotch glue into the hinge slots and then attach the ailerons. Clean up any excess glue and then use some masking tape to hold it in place until the glue dries (few hours to be sure). h. Some models have wing tabs that fill a gap between the aileron and fuse; attach them using Scotch glue, and tape into place until the glue dries. i. Some models come with SFGs. Attach them, if you like, using the screws provided. TBD Groovejet always puts the z bend of the pushrod on the opposite side of the control horn to that shown in the photo. Discuss with Nac. |
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Last edited by groovejet; Jul 12, 2012 at 10:37 PM.
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Jun 24, 2012, 03:44 AM
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Melbourne, Australia
Joined Aug 2007
3,572 Posts
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14 - Build - Horizontal Stabiliser and Elevator
TBD a. If required enlarge the second outer plastic horn hole to allow the Z bend wire to fit correctly using the same process as the ailerons. b. Attach the horn to the elevator using the same process as the ailerons. c. Test fit the elevator, and if required deepen the hinge slots with a sharp blade. d. Pass the elevator through the slot, and then pass the horizontal stab through the slot. e. Attach the elevator with Scotch glue using the same process as the ailerons. Ensure that you have a 1mm gap to allow full defection of the elevator. Tape until dry. f. Using a ruler and tape measure line up the elevator (E.g. centred in the fuse and perpendicular). g. Now looking from behind the elevator needs to be parallel with the wings. If required use small bits of icy pole stick as temporary wedges in-between the elevator and fuse. h. Squeeze a bead of Scotch along all four inside edges skipping over the wedges. i. When the glue is dry remove the wedges and fill in the missing gaps. (Note: A reason I have for using this method is that the elevator can be removed easily later if required) |
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Last edited by groovejet; Jul 12, 2012 at 10:40 PM.
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Jun 24, 2012, 03:45 AM
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Melbourne, Australia
Joined Aug 2007
3,572 Posts
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15 - Build - Tail and Rudder
TBD a. If required enlarge the most outer plastic horn hole to allow the Z bend wire to fit correctly using the same process as the ailerons. b. Attach the horn to the rudder using the same process as the ailerons; it must be fitted to the opposite side of the fuse to the elevator horn. c. Test fit the rudder, and if required deepen the hinge slots with a sharp blade. d. Attach tail wheel wire to the rudder, using Scotch glue. e. Attach the rudder to the fuse with Scotch glue using the same process as the ailerons. f. Tape in place until the glue dries. |
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Last edited by groovejet; Jul 12, 2012 at 10:42 PM.
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