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Old Dec 10, 2012, 09:36 AM
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Originally Posted by AndyOne View Post
Rumcajs,

The circuit is just the last part of a conventional MHz PPM receiver, there are many other ways of achieving decoding of the CPPM signal (PPM stream), it will give you 6 channels as drawn but could be adapted to give up to 8. Easier than using hardware would probably to look into Dennis' code and rewrite it to give individual servo outputs on different pins from the Arduino.

A.
For so - but it is such a problem that I do not know completely on writing programs
In the evening, talk with a friend who is smarter than me , and maybe something will come of it

Thank you for your support and commitment, and I'll do what I want to praise the results

Regards
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Old Dec 11, 2012, 04:26 AM
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(Complain about DX removed)
Sensor repaired, just some cold solder, little bit tidling with hot air solder machine, and it works.
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Last edited by Vilniz; Dec 11, 2012 at 05:16 AM. Reason: Problem solved :)
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Old Dec 12, 2012, 03:18 PM
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Wow! I replaced the Gy-85 with the one that arrived a month late (it came from Dx) and placed 30cm away from arduino with wires and recalibrated it and BOOM! Everything works like charm! No drift that I an see, no mixed axis, everything works like it should! After so much frustratio and disapointment I had little faith in getting this to work! It must have been a faulty unit from ebay or something.

I cant wait to set the gains/magnetometer calibrations and test this bad boy out!
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Old Dec 15, 2012, 01:27 AM
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I've now added the "AnnihilaT" short-range PPM Tx/Rx for the HT. Works nice.
How-to thread here http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1227871

Next, I'll add the Tx to the Kristaps Fatshark Dominator arduino board so it'll be a wireless HT - just hope there's no interference

Look mom, No wires!
"AnnihilaT" Short-range PPM Tx/Rx for the "Dennis Frie" DIY HeadTracker (1 min 33 sec)
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Old Dec 15, 2012, 07:31 AM
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looks good.
I use the 433Mhz Link now for more than one year and have no interference problems. Only the 433Mhz TX should not be to close to the HT.(that causes slight problems)

ah, and my car remote control does not work anymore when the TX is ON.
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Old Dec 15, 2012, 01:51 PM
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Thanks!
hahaha.... I guess these would be fun to prank your friends and disable their car remotes! Good to know. I went with the 315 MHz thinking the 433 MHz would get interference from the LRS Tx. I'll find out if this 315Mhz Tx interferes with the HT when I try stuffing in the Fatsharks.

Rx fits nicely into the gutted 9x Tx module and gets power from 5v from inside 9x

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Old Dec 15, 2012, 02:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chiloschista View Post
I'm wondering buying a new couple from another seller.
Did someone try the $20.- sensor board on Goodluckbuy ?
Is it ok or better go straight to the $30.- unit ?

Thanks for help

Ric
Hi, I've just received my new parts from GoodLuckBuy and put them together with the sensor board directly on top of the Arduino board. The sensor board is this one.....http://www.goodluckbuy.com/index.php...oduct_id=84726

So far I've only tried it on the bench but it seems to work perfectly. I haven't changed any settings and think the secret to success has been the proper understanding of how to do all the calibrations.

Cheers Don
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Old Dec 17, 2012, 03:21 AM
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Got my first flight with the headtracker behind me. The weather was far from perfect (7m/s gusty winds), but what the heck. I felt it was very different than fixed camera, but I was strugling with the winds so I barely had any chances to look around. It was fun, but I need to fly on a more gentle weather to get the feel of it. The HT itself performed magnificiently
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Old Dec 19, 2012, 08:04 AM
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Iv'e got the sketch written to the board but it wont respond when trying to calibrate it. There is a green led on both boards and a red led flashes once when I try to calibrate or connect but that is it. I'm a bit lost. Been looking at it for months. Had a freind look at it and he is good at this sort of thing.
Where do I start? It could be simple
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Old Dec 21, 2012, 03:57 AM
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Does anyone know of some good cheap, jitter-free 180 degree servos?

Dennis maybe your next quick project could be a diy-servo strecher?
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Old Dec 21, 2012, 09:00 AM
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I believe the hobbyking turnigy TGY-R5180MG is a good servo for pan and tilt systems.
only problem is, it's a analog servo.
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Old Dec 22, 2012, 08:22 AM
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Originally Posted by sjb_rc View Post
I believe the hobbyking turnigy TGY-R5180MG is a good servo for pan and tilt systems.
only problem is, it's a analog servo.
Thanks! Is the resolution good enough? Does it center accurately? Does it twitch?
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Old Dec 23, 2012, 03:41 AM
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Originally Posted by msev View Post
Thanks! Is the resolution good enough? Does it center accurately? Does it twitch?
The best 180 servos are Hyperion Atlas servos. No jitter and good resolution. They are digital and can be programmed 180 amongst many other settings. They have all sizes from 9-gram to full size. To top it off, they have fast .07 speed or faster servos which really enhances the head tracking experience. The Hyperion servos are one of the best finds I've found for head tracking!
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Old Dec 23, 2012, 12:37 PM
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AlistairR

Maybe you have got a board like mine, the missing plat rings! Try the one-wire device scanner, to see if all devices on the board is responding respectively to correct ID. Or simply by terminal (115200) send $DEBUG (capital letters) to Arduino, you will get a complete respond of all devices on the one-wire bus.

Max
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Old Dec 23, 2012, 12:58 PM
LKJ
Lars k Jensen
Denmark, Central Denmark Region, Tostrup
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WEREE View Post
The best 180 servos are Hyperion Atlas servos. No jitter and good resolution. They are digital and can be programmed 180 amongst many other settings. They have all sizes from 9-gram to full size. To top it off, they have fast .07 speed or faster servos which really enhances the head tracking experience. The Hyperion servos are one of the best finds I've found for head tracking!
Agree i use them myself and is very happy with them.

But just remember they actually short their 5V supply every they are switching so you have to add low i think is ESR kondensators on 5V + - to avoid brownouts on your RC RX its is a well known issue with them.

Both Thomas Sherrer and Dennis tested them and confirmed this is true.

Lars.
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