Originally Posted by LKJ

Thanks for the help.
By the way, servo center fit nerly perfekt vith 2220.

Lars.

No problem, always nice with some FPV talk etc.

I feel pretty sure 2220 is off center on my transmitter - but as everyone can just set the center-position matching the transmitter it shouldn't matter.

Have you checked that the servo can move 100% in each direction? If the center-position is not set correct, and/or the travel-adjustment (in your program called "servo pulse variation") is too high, the transmitter will ignore the pulse and center the servo in case you move it too much.

Hi Dennis,
Great project! I've seen futaba squere socket on your photo, should i use only 3 pins: GND (pin 2), Signal In (pin 5) and +V switched (pin 6) to get it worked with my T8FGS? No PPM out (pin 3) needed?
Which pins on IMU side are Yellow and Green? On arduino side Yellow=A5 and Green=A6, what about IMU?

Originally Posted by Dennis Frie

No problem, always nice with some FPV talk etc.

I feel pretty sure 2220 is off center on my transmitter - but as everyone can just set the center-position matching the transmitter it shouldn't matter.

Have you checked that the servo can move 100% in each direction? If the center-position is not set correct, and/or the travel-adjustment (in your program called "servo pulse variation") is too high, the transmitter will ignore the pulse and center the servo in case you move it too much.

AAAaaa it just did that for me when i moved/turned the HT far to far in pan, now i lerned some more today.
I wil look ind to that tomorrow.

Lars.

Originally Posted by Cossacs

Hi Dennis,
Great project! I've seen futaba squere socket on your photo, should i use only 3 pins: GND (pin 2), Signal In (pin 5) and +V switched (pin 6) to get it worked with my T8FGS? No PPM out (pin 3) needed?

I only use GND, signal in and +V swithced atm. That's all you need for the headtracker.

PPM out is just for the PPM expansion part - but that's not quite done yet.

Originally Posted by LKJ

AAAaaa it just did that for me when i moved/turned the HT far to far in pan, now i lerned some more today.
I wil look ind to that tomorrow.

Lars.

Well, at least you know the reason
If you wasn't experiencing that before, I would expect, that the center-position was actually set right before. When you where comparing with the potentiometer on the transmitter, have you checked in the servo-menu that it was actually in neutral?

Originally Posted by Dennis Frie

I only use GND, signal in and +V swithced atm. That's all you need for the headtracker.

Cool, thanks

Just to clarify regarding IMU to Arduino connection, SDA=A5 and SCL=A6?

Originally Posted by Dennis Frie

Well, at least you know the reason
If you wasn't experiencing that before, I would expect, that the center-position was actually set right before. When you where comparing with the potentiometer on the transmitter, have you checked in the servo-menu that it was actually in neutral?

I think i controlled this when i made the setup and will recheck tomorrow, but there are week knots in the pots so they have somewhat locked positions/steps, therefor i can not make both pan and tilt neutrals 100% perfect at one time, one of them will always move just a little, the new programming tool you made where each servos neutral and individual end positions can be set will cure that.

Lars.

Originally Posted by Cossacs

Cool, thanks

Just to clarify regarding IMU to Arduino connection, SDA=A5 and SCL=A6?

No, it's:
SDA = A4
SCL A5

Guess it's time for a little update.
Anything missing in the headtracker part except a button to "reset"?



Code updated at:
http://code.google.com/p/open-headtracker/

please note that magnetometer min/max value must be calibrated manually atm for best performance. I'll write a little tool to help getting this done later.

So whats next after the headtracker?
I'd like if you made an arduino transmitter

That would be a suitable challange for your skillz

Originally Posted by msev

So whats next after the headtracker?
I'd like if you made an arduino transmitter

That would be a suitable challange for your skillz

I don't really have any plans for new FPV-projects, but good ideas are welcome (have a few other projects, but not related to FPV)


I'm not quite sure what you mean by "Arduino transmitter"?. OpenLrs should be a good place to start if you want to play with OpenSource RC-link.

So is anyone building one of these? I'm quite excited, as I've been looking to add headtracking to my FPV expreience for ages, but have been put off by the limitations of the commercial systems.

I have managed to build my own multicopter controller board based on the Arduino, wii motion plus and nunchuck before. Do you think I could handle this? Is there anything I need to be especially careful of?

Sub.

Dennis is in a much better position to answer this, but after building his DIY OSD this weekend in about 15 minutes, I can tell you Im amazed by the simplicity and reliability of his systems.

I built it in a breadboard and am waiting for the proto board so I can solder it and mount it on an aircraft. You should be fine!

Originally Posted by Dennis Frie

I don't really have any plans for new FPV-projects, but good ideas are welcome (have a few other projects, but not related to FPV)


I'm not quite sure what you mean by "Arduino transmitter"?. OpenLrs should be a good place to start if you want to play with OpenSource RC-link.

High end OpenSource RC transmitter is to be found here:
http://www.os-rc.com/
But unfortunately a little more costly than the arduino . But with "built-in" FPV options.

Originally Posted by subsonic

So is anyone building one of these? I'm quite excited, as I've been looking to add headtracking to my FPV expreience for ages, but have been put off by the limitations of the commercial systems.

I have managed to build my own multicopter controller board based on the Arduino, wii motion plus and nunchuck before. Do you think I could handle this? Is there anything I need to be especially careful of?

Sub.

Year, you should be finem the hardware is very easy
The board can be directly mounted on Arduino Nano's pins (will upload picture when I get it done) and you just need 3 wires to transmitter.

The GUI etc. should be straight forward.

It's still one of the early software versions - but I don't think much will be changed, as it works pretty well.

*I have just changed the title of the thread, should match better.