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Old Aug 14, 2012, 12:31 PM
Duane
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No. VA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ulpilotrmh View Post
I give up. How do I upload multi photos with captions?
Click the Manage Attachments button under the post text box. If it's not there, click the Go Advanced button.
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Old Aug 15, 2012, 12:56 PM
Good for what ALES you
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United States, CA, Novato
Joined Jan 2009
446 Posts
I had been thinking about trying this approach since there are some benefits. In my GL I have the firewall at the front which could allow the battery to impact the rear of the motor and running the wires past the motor housing is a challenge. Keep us updated.
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Old Aug 18, 2012, 07:17 PM
ulpilotrmh
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USA, FL, Tavares
Joined Sep 2010
341 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by awilmunder View Post
I had been thinking about trying this approach since there are some benefits. In my GL I have the firewall at the front which could allow the battery to impact the rear of the motor and running the wires past the motor housing is a challenge. Keep us updated.
If I were to do this again, I would reduce the depth of the firewall 3/32" to 1/8" at the top edge.The hatch becomes very thin right at the back edge of the firewall and is fragile. I have painted the entire hatch with epoxy and that has stiffened it a lot, but I still worry about it.

In order to mount the motor to the front of the firewall, I pressed the prop shaft thru the motor so it protrudes out the side of the motor opposite the motor mount. I will then plug in the leads to the ESC so the motor runs "backwards."

Another problem was accessing the motor mount screws while the motor is in the plane. I found that I can pull the prop shaft and the spinning part of the motor off the armature (The magnets actually are all that hold the motor together) and that provides just enough space to access the mount screws with the ball end allen wrench.

More to come.

Russ
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Old Aug 20, 2012, 08:08 PM
ulpilotrmh
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USA, FL, Tavares
Joined Sep 2010
341 Posts
I got the outer wing panels for the 3 piece wing covered. I used Coverite. I don't know if this is the best for weight but it sure beats the others I've tried as far as ease of application. The other films I've tried have too much of a tendency to stick to themselves. This drove me up the walls on small airframes. Also the clear plastic backing peals off Coverite with ease, I think it's all I'll ever use from now on.

Can someone steer me to a tutorial on posting mutiple photos with captions?
I need step by step instructions.

Russ
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Old Sep 10, 2012, 01:36 PM
ulpilotrmh
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USA, FL, Tavares
Joined Sep 2010
341 Posts
Okay, now I have a real problem and really need help. I just recieved the 1500mAh 3S Lipo that was recommended way back when I started on this project. As you may remember, I had moved the firewall back in order to allow the square nose shape to be rounded off to acccomodate the folding prop and spinner. Now that I have the Lipo in hand, I find it is too long by about 1/2".
Before I hang this project in the rafters, Can I go with a shorter 2S Lipo in this plane and expect adequate performance in ALES Comps?

Russ
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Old Sep 11, 2012, 10:37 AM
Good for what ALES you
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United States, CA, Novato
Joined Jan 2009
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Russ,

My GL is using Turnigy Nano-tech 3S 1300 mAh 45C batteries that are just a shade less than 3" in length. Looking at the standard Turnigy 1500 mAh batteries, they are 107mm, so more than an inch longer than the 1300's. I also use these 1300s in my electric Oly because the voltage drop at full throttle using lower C rated batteries was causing the ESC to cut the motor.

From your earlier photo, these batteries should fit in your bay but you may need to move the RX and ESC back. The smaller batteries wlll result in a lighter plane, so there are other benefits.
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Old Sep 11, 2012, 04:13 PM
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United States, VA, Franconia
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I use the Hyperion 3s 1300 25C and the Turnigy Nano-Tech 850 45C in my Electra and they work fine. The 850 is fairly small but it's only good 2 motor runs or so. I use them in ALES because you probably won't be doing more than 1 motor run in ALES.
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Old Sep 12, 2012, 07:15 AM
ulpilotrmh
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USA, FL, Tavares
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Thanks guys. I went with the Nono-Tech 850, have two on order That should do it.

russ
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Old Sep 20, 2012, 03:25 PM
ulpilotrmh
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USA, FL, Tavares
Joined Sep 2010
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Sorry for the silence. I ran out of Coverite and had to order another roll to finish the wing. Also have the "Y" cable ordered for the flap servos. I think the end is in sight. Still have to figure out the best placement of the components for balance.

Russ
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Old Sep 28, 2012, 11:48 AM
ulpilotrmh
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USA, FL, Tavares
Joined Sep 2010
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Sometimes we are our own worst enemy. Back a few posts ago I made the choice of flaps over spoilers to shorten the glide on final. I decided the flaps should be large and open 90 degrees. I have completed the wing's center section with flaps that are 2 inches wide and 17 3/8 inches long. I've decided this is overkill to the max and am scratch building another center section with 7 3/4 x 1 inch spoilers. These will be raised by the servo arms pressing directly upon the inside of the spoilers and they will be closed by the slipstream and kept closed with small magnets. I found this setup on youtube and like it for its simplicity.

Russ
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Old Sep 28, 2012, 02:11 PM
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USA, MO, Ozark
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Hi
2.5 inches for flaps MIGHT BE a bit of overkill. 20 to 25% should be good( I just asked about that the other day)
However it can be usefull when setting flaps for speed and lift settings ie camber changes. Let these guys chime in before doing a rebuild????
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Old Sep 29, 2012, 05:08 AM
ulpilotrmh
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USA, FL, Tavares
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Rebuild is not a problem. This way I'll have two center sections and can switch to spoliers if the flaps proove to be too much. Besides, I enjoy building and have everything needed on hand, except I will need to order more Coverite.

Russ
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Old Oct 10, 2012, 06:23 AM
ulpilotrmh
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USA, FL, Tavares
Joined Sep 2010
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My next project is a Thermic 72, the short kit From Aerosente. It's been done before on this site, but years ago. Anyone interested in another build log on this design? Mine will be set up to use the same RC hardware as the gentle Lady.

Russ
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Old Oct 10, 2012, 07:47 PM
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United States, MA, Waltham
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Not sure that Coverite is a good idea on the center panel. I don't think it will add as much torsional stiffness to the wing. Of course there are ways to fix this, such as using some sheeting on the bottom and making a d-tube, or adding some diagonal ribs. (These don't actually have to touch the covering to be helpful, so they could be trapezoids.)

Suspect your flaps won't be too large if you can program in some elevator compensation. Or, as a friend of mine did many years ago, some kind of mechanical mixing. As I recall, his wing had 20 percent flaps on the entire span! He could descend straight down, it seemed, without going too fast.
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Old Oct 11, 2012, 03:41 PM
ulpilotrmh
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USA, FL, Tavares
Joined Sep 2010
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Humm...too late for a "D Tube" but I like the diagonal rib idea, I think I'll look into that. Thanks.

Russ
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