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Old Oct 26, 2012, 09:11 PM
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Kaiapoi , New Zealand
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pretty happy with the way things are shaping up so time to start gluing all the fuse parts together for good.
Started with the rear fuse section and working forward,positioning the ply bulkhead bits in as well.
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Old Oct 27, 2012, 08:20 PM
KISS_KeepItSimpleStupid
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Invercargill, New Zealand
Joined Nov 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mintie View Post
I have a little plan by keith Humber from 1994 [ Radio modeller ]with a w/s of 74.5 in and I just doubled every thing on that. Is this the same plan you speak of?
Graeme
You'll never guess . . . I found that very plan in my collection the other day. Didn't even realise it was there.
I was looking for a small(ish) glider I could use for aero-tow at he park behind an electric tug.

Um . . . just realised . . thats a big glider ! ! Don't get a real feel for size till it's all together. With your construction should be quite a floater.

Still watching . . .
Phillip C
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Old Oct 27, 2012, 11:56 PM
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Kaiapoi , New Zealand
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yes Phil..it is starting to get big..But thats what I want,so will just keep going..
Stay on board mate and watch the progress.
Graeme
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Old Oct 30, 2012, 02:56 AM
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Kaiapoi , New Zealand
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Now have the cabane strut welded up and will bead blast at work tomorrow.
Next a coat of paint on it and then bolt to the bulkhead.
All that assembly can then be fitted to the fuse.
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Old Oct 31, 2012, 02:43 PM
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United States, KY, Taylorsville
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Very interesting build. Been following along.
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Old Oct 31, 2012, 10:28 PM
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Blenheim, NZ
Joined Dec 2007
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Novel Construction

This a novel construction method Mintie. I guess the foam remains in place after glassing. Did you come up with this approach yourself?
How are you planning to do the wings?

Allan
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Old Nov 01, 2012, 12:52 AM
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Kaiapoi , New Zealand
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Allan ... I have been building models this way for the last 15 yrs.
Yes the foam stays in place that is why I have made it all hollow.
The finish construction is light and strong. Have a few on my Blog.
Have built e-power and glow models this way.
The wings are to be a built up construction and solatex covered. As is the elevator.
Thanks for the interest....Mintie.
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Old Nov 01, 2012, 02:26 PM
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Blenheim, NZ
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Wing construction.

Very cool.
Have you considered a foam wing with veneer skin and then cut out the rib bays?
I'm doing my SHK tailplanes that way after seeing a commercial Minimoa built like this.
Just another idea.

Allan
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Old Nov 01, 2012, 06:33 PM
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Kaiapoi , New Zealand
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AllanK1 View Post
Very cool.
Have you considered a foam wing with veneer skin and then cut out the rib bays?
I'm doing my SHK tailplanes that way after seeing a commercial Minimoa built like this.
Just another idea.

Allan
Havent really considered that but would be interested in seeing how yours comes out.
How does weight compare to a built up tail..need to keep this tail end very light.

Have done foam and balsa skinned wings and tail on my edge 540T,but no rib bay cut outs.
Yes always open to input and ideas.
graeme
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Old Nov 02, 2012, 06:05 PM
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Single seater Tutor (Kirby Cadet Mk 2), about 1/6th scale which flys but has no penetration or much of a glide as per the real one which I did my first solo in on my 16th birthday (a few years ago now). Model from K.G. Humber's plan.
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Old Nov 02, 2012, 09:34 PM
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Kaiapoi , New Zealand
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Have got that plan as well.but I chose the mk3 and made it twice size. Again a K G Humber plan.
Nice model you have there.
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Old Nov 03, 2012, 07:45 PM
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Kaiapoi , New Zealand
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Fuse now all glued together..A bit of sanding to go before the paper covering.Fiberglass skinning will come later.
Need to fit the front skid mount and the tow release mechanizim and the rear tail plane brace mount.
The front skid runner will be a fiberglass unit.
The AUW now is 350 gms.I have a projected weight in mind and will see how close we get.

Any input wellcome...need ideas for the wing top pop up brakes.
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Old Nov 03, 2012, 08:49 PM
KISS_KeepItSimpleStupid
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Invercargill, New Zealand
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mintie View Post
Fuse now all glued together..A bit of sanding to go before the paper covering.Fiberglass skinning will come later.
Need to fit the front skid mount and the tow release mechanizim and the rear tail plane brace mount.
The front skid runner will be a fiberglass unit.
The AUW now is 350 gms.I have a projected weight in mind and will see how close we get.

Any input wellcome...need ideas for the wing top pop up brakes.
Q1:- Whats the purpose of the paper covering? (saw the pics in your blog)
Q2: What weight cloth will you be using for glass skinning?

Airbrakes, have a look at this link he used a servo with a sprung wire arm connection. The spring made sure the brake stayed down and didn't open during flight.

Looking good . .
Phillip C
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Old Nov 04, 2012, 01:04 AM
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Kaiapoi , New Zealand
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I will answer the Qs one at a time.
The paper serves two functions...firstly ..the paper is like a very thin veneer,remember it is wood.This adds very little wt, but a considerable amount of strength if put on correctly.Its cheap and easy to work with.

secondly....as you may be aware foam absorbs a hugh amount of resin when glassing and that is weight,so the paper seals the foam and then, the amount of resin used is greatly reduced,and a better surface to work on.Glassing is all about using the least amount of resin.[Some people think that you just pile it on ,but the resin does not surply the strenght, it only needs to lock the glass fibers together]

On some of my e-power models just the paper is used and works a treat..

with the paper on and any final filling done, will use a base covering of 6oz cloth over the whole fuse,then a 2oz over the whole fuse.
This will be left to harden for a couple of days then lightly sand.If I am happy with this, will then do the forward section up to the rear of the cockpits with a 24gm finishing cloth.
left to harden off again then a light sand .Time then to start with the 2k under coats.
Will document as I go with pics.

Thanks for the airbrake link.that is way cool...kind of thought something like that would work .So simple and easy. but functionable.
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Old Nov 04, 2012, 01:18 AM
KISS_KeepItSimpleStupid
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Invercargill, New Zealand
Joined Nov 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mintie View Post
I will answer the Qs one at a time.
The paper serves two functions...firstly ..the paper is like a very thin veneer,remember it is wood.This adds very little wt, but a considerable amount of strength if put on correctly.Its cheap and easy to work with.

secondly....as you may be aware foam absorbs a hugh amount of resin when glassing and that is weight,so the paper seals the foam and then, the amount of resin used is greatly reduced,and a better surface to work on.Glassing is all about using the least amount of resin.[Some people think that you just pile it on ,but the resin does not surply the strenght, it only needs to lock the glass fibers together]

On some of my e-power models just the paper is used and works a treat..

with the paper on and any final filling done, will use a base covering of 6oz cloth over the whole fuse,then a 2oz over the whole fuse.
This will be left to harden for a couple of days then lightly sand.If I am happy with this, will then do the forward section up to the rear of the cockpits with a 24gm finishing cloth.
left to harden off again then a light sand .Time then to start with the 2k under coats.
Will document as I go with pics.

Thanks for the airbrake link.that is way cool...kind of thought something like that would work .So simple and easy. but functionable.
Thanks, makes perfect sense.

Can't wait to see the process . . .
Phillip C
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