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Old Nov 10, 2003, 02:33 AM
hty
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Joined Sep 2003
146 Posts
Yippee!
how to break in 350c motor and 7/8 cell 730mh AAA

Hi there,

just bought an E-starter pack, I'm new to electric RC plane and need your advise on how to break in my 350C motor and GWS 7/8 cells 730mh ni-mh AAA batteries.

Which prop is best for the above setup? I opt for longer flight time and motor life. 9070x3, 9070, 9046 and 1080.

Is 350C power system using EM350 motor? coz I'm looking for spare motors just in case that the 350C fail.


Thanks in advance,
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Old Nov 10, 2003, 04:13 AM
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Darwin Australia
Joined May 2002
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hty

Don’t bother to “break in” the motor. I have found that it takes two plus hours until my GWS Warbird motors are running at their best and this amount of running on the ground is a waste of good flying time.

I get good performance out of the box without “breaking in” my motors. My present GWS Spitfire motor has 12 hours 48 minutes of running time so not “breaking in” does not shorten motor life.

A more important practice is not to run your motor for more than ten seconds at full power when on the ground.

Ken
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Last edited by kensp; Nov 10, 2003 at 04:20 AM.
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Old Nov 10, 2003, 10:20 PM
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Slingerlands, NY
Joined Feb 2003
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AAA's don't really deliver the kind of amps a 350 requires.

What ratio is the 350C you have? That is required to determine prop choices.
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Old Nov 10, 2003, 11:23 PM
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Columbia, MO USA
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Quote:
Originally posted by kensp
I have found that it takes two plus hours
It shouldn't take more than two minutes to break a motor in. When properly done it greatly improves motor efficiency and life. I prefer to break them in underwater. Just add a couple drops of soap to a glass of water and pop the motor in. You should only run 2.5 - 3 volts through it for break-in. Watch the water and listen to the motor. After a short time the rpms will increase and the water will start to turn grey. You're done! Turn it off, pull it out of the water, dry it thoroughly using WD-40 or similar, re-oil the bushings and you're ready to go.
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Old Nov 10, 2003, 11:59 PM
hty
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Joined Sep 2003
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MooseFlyR,

I think the 350 motor is using C gearing(5.33:1).


VWtechie,

After taking the motor out from the water, how should I dry it? using hairdryer? should I run it again for few seconds? What kind of oil should be used on the motor after it is dried? Should I drop the oil into the inner part of the motor through those holes on the motor casing?

Thanks
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Old Nov 11, 2003, 03:20 AM
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Magnus G's Avatar
Sweden
Joined Nov 2002
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Quote:
Originally posted by VWtechie
It shouldn't take more than two minutes to break a motor in. When properly done it greatly improves motor efficiency and life. I prefer to break them in underwater. Just add a couple drops of soap to a glass of water and pop the motor in. You should only run 2.5 - 3 volts through it for break-in. Watch the water and listen to the motor. After a short time the rpms will increase and the water will start to turn grey. You're done! Turn it off, pull it out of the water, dry it thoroughly using WD-40 or similar, re-oil the bushings and you're ready to go.
I just broke in a GWS 350c and it got really tough brushes!
After 5 minutes I could barely detect any carbon/metal in the water at all, and looking at the brushes through the side hole showed no signs of wear, it was still only the rised outer edges of the brushes that touched the communicator.
It took 30 minutes of break in before the ridges on the brushes had worn down enough for me to consider it ready.
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Old Nov 11, 2003, 11:35 AM
What...me worry?
Idaho
Joined Sep 2003
227 Posts
HTY...
You should always break in your brushed electric motors. Break-in allows the brushes to seat against the commutator properly, insuring optimal electical contact and increased motor efficiency. If you just run a fresh motor at full power you will get arcing that will pit the brushes and the motor will never be as good as it would be if you had broken it in properly.

VWtechie is right, the fastest way to break in a motor is the one that he describes. Just make sure to use only about 1/2 as many cells as you would use to fly with. Should only take 5-15 minutes this way. Make sure to dry it completely! You can use a hair dryer or heat gun to dry it. Then shoot it with a good light oil. WD-40 works, but I prefer spray silicone oil as it is VERY tenacious and doesn't seem to gum up the way that WD-40 can. Just make sure that it is completely dry, as the silicone does not displace water the way that WD-40 does.

Alternatively you can just set the motor to running while you are working on another part of the kit. Let it run until your pack (again...about 1/2 flying voltage) is depleted. Check the motor once in a while to make sure that it is not getting hot. Warm is OK. If it is getting hot, reduce the number of cells in your pack. This method usually takes 2-4 hours, but you don't have to worry about getting everything dry, and is probably better for motor/gearbox combos where you can't actually get into the gearbox to make sure that everything is dry.

--JB
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Old Nov 12, 2003, 12:46 PM
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Columbia, MO USA
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Yeah. What JB said .

--Brad
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Old Nov 13, 2003, 09:06 PM
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Flight Level 46 X 92
Joined Feb 2002
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Or, take the motor out of the gearbox. usually only takes a couple of screws to dis-mount the motor. Then follow the info above. It does work. FYI, I use motor drops meant for RC car motors to lube and help the break-in. It does work and make a difference.
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Old Nov 15, 2003, 02:03 AM
flyin' fool
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Vancouver Island, Canada
Joined Jul 2003
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The best liquid for breaking in motors is alcohol, the kind you find in a paint store. I will evaporate quickly if you keep the motor running for a few minutes after removing it from being submerged. Re-oil the bearings using only a very small amount of oil. Use a needle type oiler or a tooth pick.
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Old Nov 15, 2003, 02:38 AM
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Darwin Australia
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Quote:
Originally posted by goldguy
The best liquid for breaking in motors is alcohol, the kind you find in a paint store. I will evaporate quickly if you keep the motor running for a few minutes after removing it from being submerged. Re-oil the bearings using only a very small amount of oil. Use a needle type oiler or a tooth pick.
Alcohol is a flamable liquid and when running in the motor the comutator sparks. This is a very dangerous situation especialy as the flame of an alcohol fire is dificult to see in sunlight. Anybody who has run Cox 049's will tell you this.

Ken
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Old Nov 15, 2003, 03:48 AM
flyin' fool
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Vancouver Island, Canada
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I know lots of "E" modelers who have been doing this for years, as well as myself. The sparks from the comutator do not ignite the alcohol. I would not post something that I thought would be a dangerous practice. This has been a common method used for years and no one I know has ever had a problem.

I realize your concerns in regards to safety and in all modeling activities that should be formost. So, if you feel uncomfortable with this method, don't use it.
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Old Nov 23, 2003, 03:46 PM
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Columbia Regional, Missouri, United States
Joined Dec 2002
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PLEASE FELLAS----


W D 40 is NOT a lubricant. It stands for Water Displament. 40 was the 40th try. It is the what the ARMED FORCES call cosmoline. All FIREARMES are coated with W D 40 and packed away. When opened, or assigned to, they HAVE to be thourly cleaned to take OFF the cosmoline (W D 40) . When W D 40 gets heated, it forms a very hard coating. Back in my dirt track days, we used to coat new headers with W D 40 and run them emmediatly to seal them against water and mud from the track! I think that the brushes and contant area will get hot enough to create this coating on the comm and then you will have trouble with it and the only way eleviate this problem is to CLEAN between the segments and turn the comm.


PHIL I.
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Old Nov 24, 2003, 08:34 PM
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Columbia, MO USA
Joined Feb 2001
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I forgot about that ! I usually dry mine out with a heat gun and then just re-oil the bushing/bearings as soon as they're dry. I'm not sure what temp it takes to cook cosmoline but I have measured endbells after a long flight at over 200 degrees F. If the endbell is that hot then the brushes and comm must be really cookin'. Thanks for pointing that one out Phil.

--Brad

BTW Phil, your new radio should be on its way to HTUSA.
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