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Old Jan 08, 2013, 05:11 PM
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Puerto Rico, Guayama, Guayama
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Originally Posted by JohnnyMc View Post
So I understand the 2 options, either shorten red spacer or shim, but Im confused on where the shim would go if I went that route. I guess if the bearing is sticking out of pocket Im also confused if the shim method makes the bearing sit in or what. I guess I'll understand better when I know where the shim sits lol.
John,

The shim goes between the bearing and the bearing cage of the hub.
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 05:30 PM
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Australia, NSW, Picnic Point
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Originally Posted by Teamsherman View Post
Sweet!!!

How far are you having it out the side of the bike? I mean, how far is the apex of the rod away from where the foot peg would mount?

Sorry to be a pain, but what section are the rods you order in? That website is nuts!! Its a hobbyist/tinkerer's best friend!!!!!!!!
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Originally Posted by Throttlejunkie View Post
That's ok mate, this link should take you to it http://www.smallparts.com.au/store/p...ndnylon/all/1/ & i cut the rod in 230mm lengths.
You guys on here are the best!!! So much info, and always willing to help out unlike some other forums i visit! Soon as im all clued up with this bike i'll be deffinately sharing my knowledge on it too!!!
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 05:45 PM
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You guys on here are the best!!! So much info, and always willing to help out unlike some other forums i visit! Soon as im all clued up with this bike i'll be deffinately sharing my knowledge on it too!!!
Great Alan, if we all put our heads together and help it make it so much less frustrating and more fun can be had .
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by davehour View Post
John,

The shim goes between the bearing and the bearing cage of the hub.
Good idea Dave. Because the bearing isn't sitting right into its housing it can develop some slop. To make the bearing fit a little tighter in the wheel I do what Chris N calls a super glue bush. Just a drop off super glue and then run around the bearing housing. Once dry this will hold the bearing better with no slop.
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 06:07 PM
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California central coast
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So we are talking the left smaller wheel bearing, then if a shim goes in the inside of that bearing and sits between the bearing and the red spacer, doesnt that make that bearing stick out futher? Ugh lol
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 06:18 PM
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Originally Posted by JohnnyMc View Post
So we are talking the left smaller wheel bearing, then if a shim goes in the inside of that bearing and sits between the bearing and the red spacer, doesnt that make that bearing stick out futher? Ugh lol
John,

When you remove the rear wheel and take a look, you'll get the idea .

The bushing OD size fits perfect in the housing and its ID clear the spacer and bearing inner race joint.

David
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 06:21 PM
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Originally Posted by chktm View Post
Good idea Dave. Because the bearing isn't sitting right into its housing it can develop some slop. To make the bearing fit a little tighter in the wheel I do what Chris N calls a super glue bush. Just a drop off super glue and then run around the bearing housing. Once dry this will hold the bearing better with no slop.
Chris,

I was thinking on using epoxy but CA will be easier and better. I'll reduce the gyro spacer to have the bearing all the way in its housing.

Do you use thin CA for this?

Now that you mention CA, let me mention thin CA it's also useful to repair stripped threads on plastic. Apply a small amount in the hole, wait for the CA to dry, and then install the screw. It will tighten well again.

David
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 06:23 PM
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Great Alan, if we all put our heads together and help it make it so much less frustrating and more fun can be had .
Well, not trying to be out of topic, but I can vouch for this too. The atmosphere on this motorcycles forum is so different from the one on helis forums...
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 06:57 PM
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I would go for the machine down the spacer option as I just checked mine and the spacer has been rubbing inside the wheel.
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 07:05 PM
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Originally Posted by JohnnyMc View Post
So we are talking the left smaller wheel bearing, then if a shim goes in the inside of that bearing and sits between the bearing and the red spacer, doesnt that make that bearing stick out futher? Ugh lol
That's the place John. If you reduce the inner spacer by 0.7mm you won't need the shim and the bearing sits in like it should. Don't go any more that 0.7mm otherwise the gyro will bind internally. This is the same as using a 0.8mm spacer pretty much. It pretty much eliminates side float.
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 07:30 PM
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Originally Posted by davehour View Post
Chris,

I was thinking on using epoxy but CA will be easier and better. I'll reduce the gyro spacer to have the bearing all the way in its housing.

Do you use thin CA for this?

Now that you mention CA, let me mention thin CA it's also useful to repair stripped threads on plastic. Apply a small amount in the hole, wait for the CA to dry, and then install the screw. It will tighten well again.

David
Good tip David you are right, CA glue has lots of uses. Don't take any more than 0.7mm off the inner spacer as the gyro bearings will start to bind in the wheel.
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 07:32 PM
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Well, not trying to be out of topic, but I can vouch for this too. The atmosphere on this motorcycles forum is so different from the one on helis forums...
That's good to hear David. We try mate lol .
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 07:55 PM
MY '75 CZ "FALTA REPLICA" 2010
TopDave's Avatar
Waterford, Michigan
Joined May 2006
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Originally Posted by davehour View Post
Dave,

Shortening the spacer, as you and Chris did, is the best way to do it. I did a temporary fix until I have the time to disassemble the rear wheel and gyro, and to confirm if others had the same problem and what they did to solve it. BTW, did you add connectors to the gyro wires to make the removal easier?

David
Yes, I soldered mine up near the gyro esc with just enough wire between the esc and the connectors to make a tidy harness entering inside the rear down tubes of the frame behind the "engine".
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 08:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Gaz-b View Post
I would go for the machine down the spacer option as I just checked mine and the spacer has been rubbing inside the wheel.
Machining down the internals of the gyro spacer causes some minor marking on the inside but doesn't seem to affect anything. Take any more than 0.7 and it will bind I've found. I combine the super glue bush and reduce the internal spacer. I don't even bother machining anything and use a bogey set up I started with to find the correct spacing so I didn't have to pull the wheel apart every time. It's a red spacer from the layshaft and a washer and works fine. Once you have reduced this gap you'll need to fit washers to the ends of the axle before the axle nuts to take up the space and make sure the axle is tight. I thought I may bend an axle as the spacer I use doesn't even fit the axle tightly, this was meant only to find the correct spacing. I haven't changed it yet and haven't seen a drama.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/newat...anageattach&p=
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Old Jan 09, 2013, 01:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Gaz-b View Post
I would go for the machine down the spacer option as I just checked mine and the spacer has been rubbing inside the wheel.
If machining the spacer to stop this same rubbing from happening take the material from the large side of the spacer.
This sort of marking is ok inside the wheel. Mine was marked a bit more by me testing a thinner spacer as well.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/newat...ach&p=23757984
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