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Old Jan 07, 2013, 08:21 PM
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Australia, QLD, Burua
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Here's a bit of fun I had today doing some jumps and wheelies. Cool. This bike has the Tenshock motor geared with a 13 pinion but with 20% knocked off the top end EPA. Still plenty.
Atomik MM450 wheelies and fun (1 min 18 sec)
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Old Jan 07, 2013, 10:22 PM
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Australia, NSW, Picnic Point
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Hey Chris, nice video mate!!!

When you do your really tight turns, are you using a nice blip of throttle throughout the turn? I want to master the tight turns before i take the bike to a off-road rc buggy track for some fun so i dont look like an idiot!! LOL

Also, how far do your side protection bars stick out from the side of the bike where the pegs should be?

Cheers,

Alan.

Also,
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Old Jan 07, 2013, 11:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Teamsherman View Post
Hey Chris, nice video mate!!!

When you do your really tight turns, are you using a nice blip of throttle throughout the turn? I want to master the tight turns before i take the bike to a off-road rc buggy track for some fun so i dont look like an idiot!! LOL

Also, how far do your side protection bars stick out from the side of the bike where the pegs should be?

Cheers,

Alan.

Also,
Thanks Alan, to do those tight turns on the grass I brake and start turning smoothly till the bike starts to drop almost onto the bar at a low speed. As it drops I start to really smoothly apply a very small amount of throttle ( just breathe on it ) and a fraction of opposite lock. I keep on the very low throttle and balance the bike to just keep it off the bar but still turn tight with the opposite lock until I want to exit the corner. If the surface has grip I use more opposite lock and throttle to get the bike to stand up. If its slippery I use the throttle more so ( still not excessive ) only using slight opposite lock to pull it up until its standing up in the direction wanted. In the slippery corners you can spin the bike around using a brake slide into a small slow drift to turn it on a dime. This can take some practice to get it in the right spot. The slower more controlled grass method works on the dirt also. The key there is not to break the rear loose until late exiting the corner with the bike stood up and in the direction you want to go. Hope this helps some. The best thing is to put a marker or two out on different surfaces and practice to see what the best technique for you is. The edge of the handlebar is about 4 inches off the ground with the bike layer over. This is the setting for dirt. I don't run on grass much. If I did more I'd use bars like TJ. A flexable nylon with some give. Small parts and bearings sell it. I'm not sure of the thickness he uses. Could be 5 or 6mm.
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 02:27 AM
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I'll give those tips a try, but I guess it's all just time and trial and error.

Small parts and bearings, have they got a website?? Are they local or O/S?
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 03:46 AM
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I'll give those tips a try, but I guess it's all just time and trial and error.

Small parts and bearings, have they got a website?? Are they local or O/S?
You got it Alan, time and practice.
They are in Brisbane. I haven't got a link sorry. Check with TJ as to what size he uses.
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 05:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Teamsherman View Post
I'll give those tips a try, but I guess it's all just time and trial and error.

Small parts and bearings, have they got a website?? Are they local or O/S?
Here is the link mate, http://www.smallparts.com.au/ i am using 6mm rod it is only a few dollars a meter but the postage will be about $11 they send it express but it is the only place i know of in oz to get it.
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 05:24 AM
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Here is the link mate, http://www.smallparts.com.au/ i am using 6mm rod it is only a few dollars a meter but the postage will be about $11 they send it express but it is the only place i know of in oz to get it.
Sweet!!!

How far are you having it out the side of the bike? I mean, how far is the apex of the rod away from where the foot peg would mount?

Sorry to be a pain, but what section are the rods you order in? That website is nuts!! Its a hobbyist/tinkerer's best friend!!!!!!!!
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 05:29 AM
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Originally Posted by chktm View Post
Here's a bit of fun I had today doing some jumps and wheelies. Cool. This bike has the Tenshock motor geared with a 13 pinion but with 20% knocked off the top end EPA. Still plenty.
http://youtu.be/7IcCFJlgXMg
Nice mate, i have not tried the 13t yet i am still running the 12t i will have to throw it on is there much difference between the 2.
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 05:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Teamsherman View Post
Sweet!!!

How far are you having it out the side of the bike? I mean, how far is the apex of the rod away from where the foot peg would mount?

Sorry to be a pain, but what section are the rods you order in? That website is nuts!! Its a hobbyist/tinkerer's best friend!!!!!!!!
That's ok mate, this link should take you to it http://www.smallparts.com.au/store/p...ndnylon/all/1/ & i cut the rod in 230mm lengths.
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 07:11 AM
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Nice mate, i have not tried the 13t yet i am still running the 12t i will have to throw it on is there much difference between the 2.
I haven't tried a 12 with the Tenshock to be honest mate so I don't know the difference with this motor. It goes a lot harder and faster than the std motor geared with a 12 but really you need a big area to take advantage of this. I like it in that spot for some fun. If I was you and you haven't bought one I wouldn't bother really for the areas you use yours. I usually run this one with the throttle EPA turned down a bit anyway as it is a bit silly and I end up crashing badly .
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 09:21 AM
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Wao! A couple of hours offline and there's so much new information...LOL

While I was performing an inspection to my bike, I noticed the rear wheel had axial play on the rear axle. I found the left ball bearing (5X13) not inserted completely in the wheel hub bearing cage. Tightening the rear axle nuts didn't help, so I removed the rear wheel from the swing arm and found there is a gyro spacer (part 0531) that seems to be too long and doesn't let the bearing enter the cage completely. This spacer is the only part that affects the spacing of the rear wheel assembly on the rear axle. In order to fix the problem without disassembling the rear wheel to work with the spacer, I used one front fork bushing (part 0446) between the bearing and the hub bearing cage. The bushing is about 0,8mm thick.

Now, there isn't any axial play but I wonder if any of you have the same problem.

I also noticed slop is developing between the bearings (right and left) and the hub bearing cages.This could be happening due to the e-gyro vibrations and the loads caused by jumps.

David
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 01:00 PM
RC Dirt Bike Action
JohnnyMc's Avatar
California central coast
Joined Feb 2010
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Spent the night balancing my flywheel. So stoked I nailed it on first attempt. Just need to look at red spacer in back wheel and any side play and fix. Once that is done, I can paint body, rider, and graphics.

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waiting on a few upgrades so I have had a paint brush out and made some parts myself with how a carbon disc with steel pads I made could stop a truck I have high hopes. on the bearing front mine had sealed bearing on the swing arm they were the only ones still serviceable.
Im interested in your carbon pads idea, smart thing to try. Looks like road bikes use either steel disk / carbon pads or carbon disk / steel pads with the later being most common with the sb5 I think. Wondering how dust/dirt would play a factor in braking, also how does carbon hold up as a brake pad. Look forward to any info you can share after some testing this year.
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 02:06 PM
MY '75 CZ "FALTA REPLICA" 2010
TopDave's Avatar
Waterford, Michigan
Joined May 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davehour View Post
Wao! A couple of hours offline and there's so much new information...LOL

While I was performing an inspection to my bike, I noticed the rear wheel had axial play on the rear axle. I found the left ball bearing (5X13) not inserted completely in the wheel hub bearing cage. Tightening the rear axle nuts didn't help, so I removed the rear wheel from the swing arm and found there is a gyro spacer (part 0531) that seems to be too long and doesn't let the bearing enter the cage completely. This spacer is the only part that affects the spacing of the rear wheel assembly on the rear axle. In order to fix the problem without disassembling the rear wheel to work with the spacer, I used one front fork bushing (part 0446) between the bearing and the bearing cage wall to make up for the gap. The bushing is about 0,8mm thick.

Now, there isn't any axial play but I wonder if any of you have the same problem.

I also noticed slop is developing between the bearings (right and left) and the hub bearing cages.This could be happening due to the e-gyro vibrations and the loads caused by jumps.

David
Yes, several of us have had the same issue as you do. Looks like you have solved the problem with the spacer shim! Chris (chktm) and I have shortened the red spacer allowing the bearing to fully seat into the bearing pocket which works great too. Letting the bearing fully seat into the wheel "might" give a little more support to the wheel, but your shim fix is probably just as good. I prolly would have done it your way too, but I couldn't find a shim that would fit at the time.
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 04:52 PM
RC Dirt Bike Action
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California central coast
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So I understand the 2 options, either shorten red spacer or shim, but Im confused on where the shim would go if I went that route. I guess if the bearing is sticking out of pocket Im also confused if the shim method makes the bearing sit in or what. I guess I'll understand better when I know where the shim sits lol.
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 05:09 PM
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Originally Posted by TopDave View Post
Yes, several of us have had the same issue as you do. Looks like you have solved the problem with the spacer shim! Chris (chktm) and I have shortened the red spacer allowing the bearing to fully seat into the bearing pocket which works great too. Letting the bearing fully seat into the wheel "might" give a little more support to the wheel, but your shim fix is probably just as good. I prolly would have done it your way too, but I couldn't find a shim that would fit at the time.
Dave,

Shortening the spacer, as you and Chris did, is the best way to do it. I did a temporary fix until I have the time to disassemble the rear wheel and gyro, and to confirm if others had the same problem and what they did to solve it. BTW, did you add connectors to the gyro wires to make the removal easier?

David
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