Originally Posted by Teamsherman

I fixed the forks, once I opened them up there was almost zero oil in them!!! I cleaned them up and filled them with 35wt and used some "green slime" where the fork is sealed at the bottom of the oil canister that stops oil leaking out that my uncle gave me to use. I also cleaned up the steering damper and filled that with 40wt. It should do the trick.

I haven't got another spare swing arm on hand for the broken wheelie bar but I'll come up with something stronger tomorrow as I'm too tired to fabricate something up tonight.

Scored a 4th battery too so that should give me more fun time!!!

Cool Alan, sounds like your hooked lol.

Originally Posted by chktm

Cool Alan, sounds like your hooked lol.

Yep! I like the challenge of getting it perfect!!

Chain fell off count sarnit!!!!

Didn't think to check it before my first ride this morning and after about 15m the bike just stopped, as I walked closer I could see the chain had come off! I found the link but not the side bit or the circlip!

I can't get one till Thursday at the earliest now dammit!!!

But on a good note, I've made a new wheelie bar from a 1/8 buggy swing arm that's twice as strong/thick as the previous one with a pneumatic rubber airplane wheel and I'm in the middle of re-doing the rear shock with some 80wt oil. Hopefully that makes the rear end a bit firmer.

Originally Posted by Teamsherman

Chain fell off count sarnit!!!!

Didn't think to check it before my first ride this morning and after about 15m the bike just stopped, as I walked closer I could see the chain had come off! I found the link but not the side bit or the circlip!

I can't get one till Thursday at the earliest now dammit!!!

But on a good note, I've made a new wheelie bar from a 1/8 buggy swing arm that's twice as strong/thick as the previous one with a pneumatic rubber airplane wheel and I'm in the middle of re-doing the rear shock with some 80wt oil. Hopefully that makes the rear end a bit firmer.

Dam that's no good Alan. The clip must have been fitted the wrong way round and removed itself after catching on something while rotating. I've only ever lost one clip due to rocks in the chain. The wheelie bar sounds the goods and 80wt should help the rear a bit.

A tough bike needs a tough wheelie bar!!

Originally Posted by Teamsherman

A tough bike needs a tough wheelie bar!!

They don't break on 1/8th buggies, definitely tough.

Hi guys,

I don't know you, but I feel the front end too stiff, and the rear end too soft for good dirt ride action. Anyway, I worked out the forks and found one of them with little oil. I used Associated 30wt. oil and still feel the front end too stiff. If the bike is dropped from 6 inches, you can see the rear end working but the front end almost not. And my forks aren't sticking at all. I've also loosened the lower caps to the point the drag is minimal. I'll appreciate if you can clear this up and tell me if this is normal for a dirt bike. I remember my Thunder Tiger 1/5 GP nitro bike with Alleven front forks felt softer than this bike's forks.

Regarding working the front forks, I followed the procedure explained by Chris Haertel. One question I have though is how much the forks should be filled with oil. The manual states "fill the forks up to the spring perch" and from the pictures of Chris's works, I see he filled them to the top of the forks body with the shaft fully compressed. The later was what I did.

David

Hey David,

I've just had to re-do my forks aswell as they were sticking and not functioning at all!! I followed the advice on how to strip them down on the Rc dirtbike action page too, and filled them with 35wt oil right to the top of the oil reservoir. I made sure to get all the air out and before I put the springs back in the forks I made sure when the forks were compressed there was no room left for any more oil or air bubbles, then I pulled the forks down to full travel and installed the springs and sealed them shut. I also used Team Associated oil and now the forks are working really well that if I drop my bike from 6 inches it just hits the ground and soaks up the impact. I haven't been able to test them yet as my chain has snapped but they are alot smoother than they were out of the box. I also used some "green slime" shock sealer on all the areas where my shocks and steering damper shafts meet the shock reservoir as it stops them from leaking.

Hope this helps a bit.

Dave, I understand what your saying but it sounds like the bike should be fine. Im sure this bike is a monster standing next to a 1/5 scale sb5 and dont forget street bikes deal with flat surfaces where this bike deals with going vertical (jumping 5ft and landing fine). Also, think about when a bike is moving forward and the front wheel hits something like a whoop, that is when you will see the front suspension doing its best work. In other words if you push straight down on the suspension from like the handlebars it feels a bit stiff, but if for example, you hold the tire and push the bike forward the forks will feel softer. I know with the front brake installed that I see the front end nose down a lot more. It would be nice to test different spring settings.

Dave they may just need a bit of use mate. I find after the first 10 to 20 runs doing some jumps and bumps the forks start to feel super smooth. You could try some of that green slime that Alan used as this will help keep the seals lubricated.

I took a mate out to a dirt patch to have a go of one of my bikes. We had a bit of fun lol. It was his first turn with a bike and he did well. I did give him my Tenshock motored bike but turned the throttle down to half. It still goes pretty good mind you and he was very impressed and is thinking about buying one for himself and one for his daughter.

Atomik MM450 two bikes racing each other (2 min 5 sec)

Atomik MM450 two bikes dirt bashing (1 min 56 sec)

So i had some time this afternoon in the garage and did a few small mods.

I installed a stronger spring on the front brake actuator, installed a stronger cable from a push-pull airplane system and made a small support block for the cable holder near the servo so it doesnt give like it did stock. Ive decided to use a servo horn with collett rather than the ready made one with the grub screw and ive used the brake set up tip post that chktm wrote up (you're a wealth of knowledge mate!!!)



And, ive done a dodgy solder weld job to the existing chain just to get me through to wednesday when i get some genuine spares, im not sure if it will hold as i havent tried it yet at all but i'll soon find out, i thought ive got nothing to lose considering its busted already. The spare link is from a HobbyKing QRF400 that is sitting in pieces in the garage that i wont ever put back together. P.s, if anyone has one and needs parts, your welcome to have this one here.


Cheers,

Alan.

Originally Posted by Teamsherman

So i had some time this afternoon in the garage and did a few small mods.

I installed a stronger spring on the front brake actuator, installed a stronger cable from a push-pull airplane system and made a small support block for the cable holder near the servo so it doesnt give like it did stock. Ive decided to use a servo horn with collett rather than the ready made one with the grub screw and ive used the brake set up tip post that chktm wrote up (you're a wealth of knowledge mate!!!)



And, ive done a dodgy solder weld job to the existing chain just to get me through to wednesday when i get some genuine spares, im not sure if it will hold as i havent tried it yet at all but i'll soon find out, i thought ive got nothing to lose considering its busted already. The spare link is from a HobbyKing QRF400 that is sitting in pieces in the garage that i wont ever put back together. P.s, if anyone has one and needs parts, your welcome to have this one here.


Cheers,

Alan.

That's great Alan. That should get the brake working well. Good idea with the solder. I hope it holds and gets you up and running. Here's some of my carnage from the day lol. Thought I'd better pull the other bike out for the vids. The bar had one too many crashes and I'd say Deegan took one head plant too many also haha. He in surgery now. We had a ball and my mate is probably going to get one for him and one for his daughter.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/newat...anageattach&p=

Originally Posted by chktm

Dave they may just need a bit of use mate. I find after the first 10 to 20 runs doing some jumps and bumps the forks start to feel super smooth. You could try some of that green slime that Alan used as this will help keep the seals lubricated.

I took a mate out to a dirt patch to have a go of one of my bikes. We had a bit of fun lol. It was his first turn with a bike and he did well. I did give him my Tenshock motored bike but turned the throttle down to half. It still goes pretty good mind you and he was very impressed and is thinking about buying one for himself and one for his daughter.
http://youtu.be/gOVDlfdl3S0
http://youtu.be/HA6_59ol8sE

Awesome mate, looks like you guy's were having a blast, great stuff

Originally Posted by Throttlejunkie

Awesome mate, looks like you guy's were having a blast, great stuff

Too much fun TJ lol. Did you notice many wobbles are usually started when the front wheel doesn't grip after lifting and dropping while the bike is leaned over a bit much. The rear is usually pretty planted unless you really go silly on the throttle.

Originally Posted by chktm

Too much fun TJ lol. Did you notice many wobbles are usually started when the front wheel doesn't grip after lifting and dropping while the bike is leaned over a bit much. The rear is usually pretty planted unless you really go silly on the throttle.

Me & my mate went out for a run today as well i was trying to practice coming off the berm without any wobbles it is all to do with throttle control like you say, i was starting to get the hang of it & with a Deegan it will be even better, we put a 12 pinion on my mates bike it goes much better but he now needs even more throttle control lol.