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Old Dec 28, 2012, 12:11 PM
RC Dirt Bike Action
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Great control of the bike Chris.
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Old Dec 28, 2012, 03:32 PM
Death and Taxes
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Des Moines I'm in Heaven...I mean Iowa
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Just got mine in, got the battery charged and wanted to set the controller with esc. When I push the set key on the reciever and then turn on ESC power, all it does is flash red. I cannot go thru the process it says, unless I power on the ESC first, then push the set key. Then it just doesn't allow me to set the transmitter. The throttle seems to work okay, but the brake doesn't work real well. If I hold full brake on transmitter, it still alows my wheel to spin freely If I gun it, then put on the brake, it seems to slow it down fairly quick, but cannot tell how much, unless I run it. Is this the correct setting?
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Old Dec 28, 2012, 04:17 PM
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Originally Posted by conceptmachining View Post
Just got mine in, got the battery charged and wanted to set the controller with esc. When I push the set key on the reciever and then turn on ESC power, all it does is flash red. I cannot go thru the process it says, unless I power on the ESC first, then push the set key. Then it just doesn't allow me to set the transmitter. The throttle seems to work okay, but the brake doesn't work real well. If I hold full brake on transmitter, it still alows my wheel to spin freely If I gun it, then put on the brake, it seems to slow it down fairly quick, but cannot tell how much, unless I run it. Is this the correct setting?
The radio and ESC should have been all set up, just plug and play. Maybe adjust steering trim if needed. The brakes won't work unless the motor is spinning so by pulling the brakes and trying to feel any wheel resistance is useless. The motor only brakes when it is turning at speed. It will pull it up and lock the rear its that powerful. Adjust your rear brake power with the EPA adjustment.
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Old Dec 28, 2012, 04:19 PM
Death and Taxes
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Des Moines I'm in Heaven...I mean Iowa
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Originally Posted by chktm View Post
The radio and ESC should have been all set up, just plug and play. Maybe adjust steering trim if needed. The brakes won't work unless the motor is spinning so by pulling the brakes and trying to feel any wheel resistance is useless. The motor only brakes when it is turning at speed. It will pull it up and lock the rear its that powerful. Adjust your rear brake power with the EPA adjustment.
Thanks for the help!! Works as it should then!
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Old Dec 28, 2012, 04:49 PM
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Great control of the bike Chris.
Great fun, thanks John. I love that new berm. You suggested that a while ago now, really works great.
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Old Dec 28, 2012, 04:50 PM
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Thanks for the help!! Works as it should then!
Too easy, have fun.
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Old Dec 28, 2012, 04:54 PM
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Get rid of that giant orange road cone at the one end, and you would swear that was one of your Ozzy pro's on his practice track slamming the berms and roosting out, lol. neat stuff!
I love watching it slamming that looser berm . Thanks Dave. You can really hold a lot more speed through and out of that corner now, I love it.
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Old Dec 28, 2012, 05:50 PM
If u aint 1st your last
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Had some awesome fun destroying some berms today. Got some nice close ups. I think it looks ok.
http://youtu.be/jnGssz7RRSQ
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Old Dec 28, 2012, 06:07 PM
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Haha definitely

Hey TJ, I'll send you a PM.
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Old Dec 28, 2012, 06:23 PM
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No worries Alan. The bike feels pretty good. This bike has a std motor geared with a 12 in this vid. I like 12 or 13. 12 gives good speed and great punch, 13 has a little more speed and pull up high but loses a little down low. The motor still seems to pull it fine.
Wow, that's a huge difference from the extra teeth! I should get mine later next week so till then I'll try to master grasshopper the bike as is!!!
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Old Dec 28, 2012, 07:19 PM
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Wow, that's a huge difference from the extra teeth! I should get mine later next week so till then I'll try to master grasshopper the bike as is!!!
Yea the bike really comes to life from 12 tooth and up as you'll see. I think they put a ten on it so newbies don't crash it too fast maybe as it pulls just as hard with 12 as 10 but for a lot longer . You have to be a little smoother again on the throttle as the rear tyre spins up quicker. Practice grasshopper, practice lol. The slides are better also because you have more throttle left to keep feeding it on. Light throttle down low and smoothly bring it on as needed.
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Old Dec 28, 2012, 11:39 PM
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Just headed out to a local track where I proceeded to break my wheelie bar and grind down Brian's feet!!! Lol

Also, my front forks were sticking compressed after the first bump making the handling really hard to negotiate! Luckily my uncle races cars and has some 35wt oil on hand which I'll put in them tonight after I've stripped them down and cleaned them. I'll put some of the same oil in the steering damper cause that looks like its lost a bit too, as its very soft and wasn't holding the wheel too firm in the turns. I'll head into my LHS next week and pick up some more oil and do the rear aswell at some point.
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Old Dec 29, 2012, 12:39 AM
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Just headed out to a local track where I proceeded to break my wheelie bar and grind down Brian's feet!!! Lol

Also, my front forks were sticking compressed after the first bump making the handling really hard to negotiate! Luckily my uncle races cars and has some 35wt oil on hand which I'll put in them tonight after I've stripped them down and cleaned them. I'll put some of the same oil in the steering damper cause that looks like its lost a bit too, as its very soft and wasn't holding the wheel too firm in the turns. I'll head into my LHS next week and pick up some more oil and do the rear aswell at some point.
Dam, thats no good, the bar needs to be pretty strong to take some abuse. The fork sticking is normal and its an easy fix by relaxing the tension on the lower fork caps. This lets the forks slide like they should. As they bed in I tighten up. I use thread tape to stop the caps loosening further during use. The guide to the forks is here.
http://www.rcdirtbikeaction.com/date/2012/08/
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Old Dec 29, 2012, 12:47 AM
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Just headed out to a local track where I proceeded to break my wheelie bar and grind down Brian's feet!!! Lol

Also, my front forks were sticking compressed after the first bump making the handling really hard to negotiate! Luckily my uncle races cars and has some 35wt oil on hand which I'll put in them tonight after I've stripped them down and cleaned them. I'll put some of the same oil in the steering damper cause that looks like its lost a bit too, as its very soft and wasn't holding the wheel too firm in the turns. I'll head into my LHS next week and pick up some more oil and do the rear aswell at some point.
The steering damper and springs aren't designed to hold the wheel firmly however you could try slightly heavier oil as 30wt is std. The bike is meant to steer itself using the springs once the lean is started. I find 40wt sufficient for my purposes. Some people use heavier but beware when using heavy oil you have to be more precise and smoother with your steering as it will affect the bike more. This can actually make the bike worse to control. Play around and see what suits you. I'd recommend starting with the 35 you've got and if you find that better try some 40wt. Smooth inputs to both steering and throttle are the key to getting the bike around a track.
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Old Dec 29, 2012, 05:27 AM
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I fixed the forks, once I opened them up there was almost zero oil in them!!! I cleaned them up and filled them with 35wt and used some "green slime" where the fork is sealed at the bottom of the oil canister that stops oil leaking out that my uncle gave me to use. I also cleaned up the steering damper and filled that with 40wt. It should do the trick.

I haven't got another spare swing arm on hand for the broken wheelie bar but I'll come up with something stronger tomorrow as I'm too tired to fabricate something up tonight.

Scored a 4th battery too so that should give me more fun time!!!
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