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Old Sep 07, 2012, 07:29 PM
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I know somone from atomik is already waiting for his pictures I will ask. I doubt he will care.

Here is a video from today, John didn't drive his due to he is still pimping his ride.

I think the track may be too tight, although I think it "might" be possible with a TON of practice...like RC helicopter practice.. I kept turning it like a truck and that dont work. I do fine outside of the track around the cones haha.

Roosting the Atomik MM450 (2 min 38 sec)
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Old Sep 08, 2012, 12:00 AM
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I gave a suggestion about driving on pg 33. Im curious if it would help break your habit of how you think about steering.

Regarding track being tight, there is no "may" about it, that track is extremely tight for bikes. I just watched a 4x4 A main video and it looks like fun but even the 4x4s are bouncing all around, which is normal fun, but with so little space they almost always end up in another lane. Its ok for 1/10 if crashes happen, but very difficult for bikes trying to recover from a crash. Looks like some rolling or uneven bumps even in the berms. If lanes were almost double the width in places I could see a cool Washougal looking mini mx track. Dirt looks perfect for the mx tire when its a little broken in. Looks beautiful and fun to jump around though. Keep practicing and little by little bike setup and your skills will make it easier to get around! I thought I read there is an oval too, or is it that open space where cones are?
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Old Sep 08, 2012, 02:33 AM
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Yes I read your suggestion, and it works great, and I have no issues..until I try the track then I go full retard and do everything wrong. I just need more practice I only have 4-5 packs through the bike so far. And yea its way to tight for racing, but I think its possible for one person to make it around with enough practice and I plan to do it

No oval..hes talking about re-desiging the track so we can run the bikes around the outside. Yes its bumpy, gets blown out fast..I need to go help him more to smooth it out

Oh any yes you can have pictures of his new pimped bike...he should send them to me any day and I will forward/post them.
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Old Sep 08, 2012, 03:19 AM
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I finally had a chance to start working on fixing my bike.

Got the forks all re-built with some 45wt. nice and smooth now.

Replaced the rear swing arm pivot and rear axle. Was able to put my All-even chain tensioners back on...near the end of their adjustment but they do work when your axles and swingarms bolts are not bent lol. I did get a set of venom tensioners too just in case I need them.

Tomorrow I'm going to put thicker oil in the rear shock and the steering stabalizer and roost it. Have the day off.

A pic of my bent stuff doesnt show up to well or look all that bad but it really screws things up on the bike I almost had to cut the axle in half with a dremel to get it out so bent it would not come out.



Got rear oil changed and steering stabalizer.

What weight oil is everyone using?

I went 45wt front forks, 90wt stabilizer, 80wt rear shock.
Going to go test it out today.

Oh and chktm, the sprocket side bearing does sit a little funky not much I can do about it.
Hey KTMDF video is cool looks like your getting the hang of it well. Bike looks to be handling pretty good. Amazing how much better it handles when things are straight eh. Lol. How are you finding the 90wt in the steering damper. I usually use 40wt and have gone up to 60wt but have gone back to 40. I use 40 in the forks and the shock is a different one. Patrick from Alleven will probably make some spacers up once I have the final measurement to allow the bearing to sit in better.
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Old Sep 08, 2012, 03:24 AM
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I didn't get to the bike until last night, I went deep sea fishing and then had to play catch up after.

Deegan got into it with a porcupine and lost!

So here's the carnage, bent axle and swingarm shaft. Rear insert is toast, shock pivot is toast, and the rear rim had a small crack in it. Gotta replace the ec3 on the esc, I was running in hot weather (100+) and did 4 5000mah packs back to back.
Wow Eric you are hard on your gear. Lol. Poor Deegan. Just out of interest have you used the battery packs that came with the bike?
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Old Sep 08, 2012, 12:00 PM
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Wow Eric you are hard on your gear. Lol. Poor Deegan. Just out of interest have you used the battery packs that came with the bike?
Well, the way this bike has been treated is not typical of my rc's. I believe that this bike will be the one to bring RC motorcycles to the masses, and I basically set out to treat it the way any rtr basher is going to treat it. I wanted to know what parts fail under extreme abuse/lack of maintenance. I have to say this bike can take some serious abuse! That final round of carnage was caused by tearing up a stepped hillside in a developement that was only half finished. I was launching the bike off the steps both downhill and uphill. Skipping over drainage ditches at full throttle, handing the controller to my even more reckless friend, basically everything I could do to break the bike. At one bought I was hitting a dirt lip and landing about 8 feet out and 5 feet down on ashpalt! I can honestly say I can recomend this bike to any RC enthusiast regardless of skill level. Does it have some flaws, of course, doesn't every RC? But, all in all I can't say enough good things about it.

About the batteries...from the first shipment I recieved I have not been a fan of the uni plug system. Afterall, its a connector inside of a connector. That being said, I have some friends with behind the counter experience who all pointed out one thing to me - at least they give you something, most batteries have no connector. It made sense to me at that point. The connector is essentially free. You can get a few runs out of it chop it off and solder whatever you want on. If you can't solder you can use it for a while for free. I've found the deans and traxxas ends to be much better than the ec3, but not as good as a true solder on connector. Anyway, I've read here and elsewhere about the poor fitment of the ec3 end and wanted to experience it myself. I have four batteries that I rotate through the mm 450 and no other rc's. Only one of the packs truly had an obviously poor fit (the one that eventually destroyed the male end). But, my bike has around 50 packs through it, and that pack has been used near a dozen times on the bike before the failure. One time before I had the connection cut out with the same pack. I know some have had issues right away, and I'm sure some have never had an issue with the uni plugs. I really like the batteries, love the warranty, and have found the packs are generally much better than most of the packs in their price range. You just have have to put real connectors on them.
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Old Sep 08, 2012, 12:00 PM
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Hey KTMDF video is cool looks like your getting the hang of it well. Bike looks to be handling pretty good. Amazing how much better it handles when things are straight eh. Lol. How are you finding the 90wt in the steering damper. I usually use 40wt and have gone up to 60wt but have gone back to 40. I use 40 in the forks and the shock is a different one. Patrick from Alleven will probably make some spacers up once I have the final measurement to allow the bearing to sit in better.
90wt seems fine, Johns using 90wt so thats what I did. I think somone at atomik gave him that number to try.

Honestly I didn't drive it enough with the stock 30 or the 90 to really tell if it did anything.

forks feel great, rear still seems like it blows through its travel really easily. But i'm just going to drive it like this until something leaks or I feel like tweaking

I use the battery that came with the bike, and also I use Gens Ace 40C 5000mah's. I haaaate the connector on the stock battery but like eric said it came with it and its a battery so I run it. I am using a couple different pro-tek ec3->deans adapters one for charging and one for the bike for my gens ace. Eventually I will whack that ESC connector off and put a Deans and re-wire the stock battery. Those EC3 connectors are a pain in the but to unplug.
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Old Sep 08, 2012, 12:04 PM
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90wt seems fine, Johns using 90wt so thats what I did. I think somone at atomik gave him that number to try.

Honestly I didn't drive it enough with the stock 30 or the 90 to really tell if it did anything.

forks feel great, rear still seems like it blows through its travel really easily. But i'm just going to drive it like this until something leaks or I feel like tweaking
I'm pretty sure Chris's big bore shock mod is the way to go , but I can say that the aluminum venom shock works better than the plastic. I bought the shock body stuffed the guts in it and just put 80 wt and changed the mount position two notches stiffer than stock and preload about centered. The bike still doesn't like big landings but I got it where it doesn't pogo in rough terrain. It was night and day better than the plastic shock.
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Old Sep 08, 2012, 01:12 PM
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ESC fix

So like some of you others I had the signal wire leads break on the esc. Pretty easy fix. Unscrew the heat sink, the top plate pulls right off. Just gently tug the wires. unsolder the posts and solder the signal wire directly to the board. Voila, the esc is now as it should have come!
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Old Sep 08, 2012, 02:01 PM
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So like some of you others I had the signal wire leads break on the esc. Pretty easy fix. Unscrew the heat sink, the top plate pulls right off. Just gently tug the wires. unsolder the posts and solder the signal wire directly to the board. Voila, the esc is now as it should have come!
nice i should of done that to mine
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Old Sep 08, 2012, 02:03 PM
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nice i should of done that to mine
No reason you can't do it now and have a spare
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Old Sep 08, 2012, 02:21 PM
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yeah i will , i wish i had done that in the first place just did not think the esc would have come apart that easy
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Old Sep 08, 2012, 02:23 PM
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Yea Jeff at atomik assured me it comes apart easily. I didn't think it did after taking off the heat sink
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Old Sep 08, 2012, 02:38 PM
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took the bike out today in the beaming sunshine made up a short track and ran two packs and can say i could notice a difference with the alven parts the micro drive and chain tensioners for sure , before hand i used to notice the bike would seem slower after its first pack like when coming on to the power after a turn, from the chain slacking but now the power is always there no slack chain and wheelies are more controlled not so violent and there is also less noise with the micro drive no heavy chain
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Old Sep 08, 2012, 05:41 PM
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Hey Eric... Sounds like some serious abuse all right. Lol. I've replaced all my speedo connectors and replaced the Venom battery connectors with new ec3 plugs and all has been good. I'm not knocking the battery as like you say it is good to come with something it's just the connector that is crap. I've fried deans plugs and unsoldered themselves as well with the gear ratios I run there is some load.
KTMDF if you are still unhappy with blowing through the stroke as I was, maybe try the big bore swap outlined on www.rcdirtbikeaction.com
I find it transforms the rear end into something like the real thing. Feels really good jumping and landing. The other thing is making a different rear insert. Try the shock first. I'm still experimenting with inserts.
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