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Old Aug 11, 2012, 09:03 PM
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Originally Posted by EricSchlaifer View Post
aI have steel 9,10,11 and 13 I can check on monday if the 12 i can get is steel or brass
Thanks I have 9 11 and 13 steel ones. I think 13 may be a little tall for most applications though good for all out speed. Be nice to get a steel 12.
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Old Aug 13, 2012, 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by chktm View Post
Thanks I have 9 11 and 13 steel ones. I think 13 may be a little tall for most applications though good for all out speed. Be nice to get a steel 12.
Should have an answer later today
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Old Aug 13, 2012, 07:24 PM
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Thanks fellas Rob I'm based in Gladstone up the coast a bit from you. The track is the local one. Although it may look good it has it's good and bad points. One the surface is a mixture of decomposed granite and clay which is a bit like pebbles on concrete. At bigger meetings the track does groove up fairly well but in between times it's slippery as. Hasn't had any maintenance for a long time also. The track markers are coppers logs which hang out and catch the bike. The layout is quite flowing and most of the jumps are good although the big one on the front straight can be hard to get every time. They are putting in a new drivers stand so maybe a track rebuild is on the cards. I used to live in Brisbane and raced at Brisbane Dirt Racing. Have you checked out that track recently. It was in the Pine Hills Sports Club. I would recommend the E Gyro for track work as the bike works much better.....
Ok Cool. I haven't been to Brisbane Dirt Racing but I know where it is. I actually bought the VMX off a guy that races buggies there. At the moment I race Gas Tourer at Brendale and just started 1/5th road bikes. I have to stop spending money for a little while so the E Gyro will have to wait a month or two The problem I find is sourcing in stock parts locally! I striped the gear when we stayed at the beach for a few days. the VMX was a lot of fun on the beach too
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Old Aug 14, 2012, 05:18 AM
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Wore out the 12 t pinion so tried the 11 again. Did what you said Eric and applied some green locktite to the motor shaft hole in the pinion ( not the grub screw, I used blue on it ) before slipping it on. I had a few runs but was disappointed with the performance. I felt it had lost a little something everywhere. Tried to remove the gear and was firmly held grub screw or not. Tried 30 seconds of flame from a lighter on the pinion ( with the motor removed ) and slipped easily off. Thanks for the tip. I had a 13 I thought I'd try and all I can say is holy crap, this thing has found another level again. Not only does it pull it, it does so effortlessly and still doesn't get too hot. No temp in the speedo. I was at half throttle halfway down the straight and smoothly applied more and could still lift the front wheel. Awesome much like a real bike.
Hey Rob, you don't know the guys name do you, I may know him although it has been a while. Have raced at Brendale before, cool track. A dirt track similar size and flow with jumps would be just what these bikes need. Would be brilliant. Save for that e gyro, makes the bike complete. Can do anything you want with it.
I'm trying to start to source some bits to sell. Will let you know. Definitely keep spare spurs and front sprockets and get an 11 tooth steel pinion for the VMX and when you get the e gyro try a 13.
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Old Aug 14, 2012, 05:29 AM
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Haha yes it does! Monday I am putting in a large spare parts order. This bike is turning out to be a very good seller! I tried the new steel 11T pinion in it last night, we are still dealing with 100+ degree temps here. The motor temped at 137 after a 5000mah pack. I got about 15 minutes of runtime. Was doing hillclimbs with it at my friends house. The stability of the bike is just amazing.
Oh Eric my temp meter is my finger. If I can hold it on without it burning it's ok.ha ha. Motor felt cooler than the old VMX pulling an 11 and pulled harder as well.
Wouldn't suit confined spaces of course. But still be good on the tracks with long straights and even tight infields. Maybe not super high grip like grass, not sure yet. Will do some more testing and see if I can blow something. Ha
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Old Aug 14, 2012, 09:31 AM
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Oh Eric my temp meter is my finger. If I can hold it on without it burning it's ok.ha ha. Motor felt cooler than the old VMX pulling an 11 and pulled harder as well.
Wouldn't suit confined spaces of course. But still be good on the tracks with long straights and even tight infields. Maybe not super high grip like grass, not sure yet. Will do some more testing and see if I can blow something. Ha
I'm glad the green locktite worked good for you! Its a trick I picked up for some of my touring car motors that don't have a notch on the shaft. This weekend will hopefully be under 100. I think I will try a 13 now!
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Old Aug 14, 2012, 05:57 PM
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I'm glad the green locktite worked good for you! Its a trick I picked up for some of my touring car motors that don't have a notch on the shaft. This weekend will hopefully be under 100. I think I will try a 13 now!
Give it a go Eric and hold on. Whoo hoo
You need to be a little smoother down low on the throttle as it spins up quick. Plenty of snap still. A quick blip on grass down low and the front instantly comes up still.
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Old Aug 14, 2012, 06:20 PM
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Hey chktm, I was thinking about the mtcs. You have it at stock A right? What if on that track, where traction is bad, you try B squating setting, otherwise if your somewhere that has good traction, the manual says upside down B.

This just popped in my head as I was thinking about softer rear inserts. How can I get softer foam without the hassle of shaping custom foam or doing what you did? Then I had an idea. What if you took the insert and could drill holes to air it out a little? Drilling foam probably isnt the right way. Maybe heated iron rod instead lol. Silly idea I guess. lol
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Old Aug 14, 2012, 08:10 PM
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Hey chktm, I was thinking about the mtcs. You have it at stock A right? What if on that track, where traction is bad, you try B squating setting, otherwise if your somewhere that has good traction, the manual says upside down B.

This just popped in my head as I was thinking about softer rear inserts. How can I get softer foam without the hassle of shaping custom foam or doing what you did? Then I had an idea. What if you took the insert and could drill holes to air it out a little? Drilling foam probably isnt the right way. Maybe heated iron rod instead lol. Silly idea I guess. lol
I have used the MTCS set for jacking for super moto it helped a lot...try cutting the foam like a crawler maybe to make it softer if you cut triangles out of it like \/\/\/ going around it.... that may work haha or it may be just as silly as drilling it
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Old Aug 15, 2012, 04:42 AM
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Hey chktm, I was thinking about the mtcs. You have it at stock A right? What if on that track, where traction is bad, you try B squating setting, otherwise if your somewhere that has good traction, the manual says upside down B.

This just popped in my head as I was thinking about softer rear inserts. How can I get softer foam without the hassle of shaping custom foam or doing what you did? Then I had an idea. What if you took the insert and could drill holes to air it out a little? Drilling foam probably isnt the right way. Maybe heated iron rod instead lol. Silly idea I guess. lol
Hey John the whole idea of my insert is to make something that stays consistent. What happens with the stock insert is it starts out quite firm but deteriorates quite rapidly ( would be even worse when cut or drilled ) compared to the wear rate on the tyre. When this happens insert debris can build up in one or more spots causing lumps or out of round tyre. This changes the handling from one run to the next. My insert handles sharp bumps better and jumps and landings as well as getting more grip and stays consistent. Really not that hard to make. Will try it on that track and let you know. With the blocks I prefer A on slippery stuff because I find the bike corners with better flow and speed and slides more consistently. Don't mind if it's a little slippery as long as I know what the bike is going to do. Have tried B and went back to A. Have never really set up for SM so would not have a clue.
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Old Aug 15, 2012, 11:40 AM
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Hey John the whole idea of my insert is to make something that stays consistent. What happens with the stock insert is it starts out quite firm but deteriorates quite rapidly ( would be even worse when cut or drilled ) compared to the wear rate on the tyre. When this happens insert debris can build up in one or more spots causing lumps or out of round tyre. This changes the handling from one run to the next. My insert handles sharp bumps better and jumps and landings as well as getting more grip and stays consistent. Really not that hard to make. Will try it on that track and let you know. With the blocks I prefer A on slippery stuff because I find the bike corners with better flow and speed and slides more consistently. Don't mind if it's a little slippery as long as I know what the bike is going to do. Have tried B and went back to A. Have never really set up for SM so would not have a clue.
Just found your post about the inserts. Pretty clever! How does your insert compare to the stock before it breaks down? Is it softer/firmer?
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Old Aug 15, 2012, 11:44 AM
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I get it. Your insert mod has some interesting aspects to it with soft inner core but then the knobbies of the front tire inside up against the rear tire allows for extra soft cushion Im guessing. I wonder if your mod is just consistent softness or maybe it acts in a more progressive manor because of the front tire knobbies, and like you said, it conforms to hard edges better than foam does. Just trying to make sense of it. I hope to test it out sometime this year lol.

By the way, finally watched race at southwick - dangit Tomac had them, but wasnt patient around worst corner to be impatient on lol...so bummed on that comeback.
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Old Aug 15, 2012, 03:58 PM
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Hello RCgroups forum members! This is Jeff Simon with the Venom/Atomik sales team. I just popped in to read some of the great comments coming from you guys concerning our new MM450 and thought I'd post to let you know that we're always around to help.

We're working hard to keep our presence on the forums around the internet, but we've been pretty busy since the launch of the bike and many of our other new Metal Mulisha products. I just wanted to make everyone aware that we are always willing to help out and answer questions through our customer service team. You can reach them via our toll free number listed on our web sites. If you need specific questions answered about our bikes or any other Venom/Atomik product, that is the best way to get in touch with us. Thanks again for all the positive feedback on the new bike and all your support! Venom's got your back!

Jeff Simon
Venom/Atomik International
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Old Aug 15, 2012, 04:07 PM
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Sounds great Eric, my motor is barely warm to touch after a 5000 pack through it with the 12 tooth on my home track and being flogged hard. Pull even harder and longer than the 11 I found. Can you get steel 12 tooth pinions? Although having more teeth makes them last longer than the 10s.
I have just confirmed the new 12T pinions are steel!!! I have some on the way!
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Old Aug 15, 2012, 06:05 PM
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Just found your post about the inserts. Pretty clever! How does your insert compare to the stock before it breaks down? Is it softer/firmer?
Hey Eric to feel by hand they feel very similar, but on the track is where you notice the feel of the tyre. Seems to get a little more consistant grip on the slick stuff as well as handling rocks and square edge bumps much better. Less deflection, more absorbtion. Sent some photos to John. If you want to see them will let him know. Cool 12 tooth steel, thanks Eric.
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