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Old Feb 16, 2013, 06:55 AM
MY '75 CZ "FALTA REPLICA" 2010
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Waterford, Michigan
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Originally Posted by Gaz-b View Post
why do you think charging a 2 s pack is any different from a multi s pack .Because you have witnessed people getting away with a bad practice does not make it a good one. the odd part is when I used to race with nicd's the lengths people went to to monitor there pack condition. The only difference I can see is a high voltage cell has fewer cells to disguise it but a low cell could easily send another over volt.
The way it was explained to me, by a 20 year sponsored Losi vet racer, was that in a 2 cell pack the higher voltage cell actually helps the charger bring the voltage up on the lower voltage cell, there by "self balancing" the pack. Smoke and mirrors? You be the judge and use your proven method. I can only say that so far it has worked for me. I always use a cell checker to compare voltages between cells for performance reasons, especially in my 3D planes and heli's. When I see one cell dropping more than a couple tenths or a cell swelling I sh*t can it.
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Old Feb 16, 2013, 06:56 AM
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Puerto Rico, Guayama, Guayama
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Originally Posted by chktm View Post
One thing about the front facing on board is you can see exactly what's going on with the steering at any time. Might help some people out?
Nice clips Chris, and very instructive. It's great to see how the bike reacts while running. The countersteering is easily seen in the videos.

David
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Old Feb 16, 2013, 08:20 AM
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G'day guys first post on here.I've had my MM450 for a week now & the gyro has stopped working.There seems to be power running to it as you can feel a slight vibration in the wheel.
Any ideas would be appreciated.
CHEERS
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Old Feb 16, 2013, 12:34 PM
RC Dirt Bike Action
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California central coast
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Well, you could open up inside back wheel and verify nothing like a bearing has failed or wires have been sliced coming out right side of wheel, then if all seems fine call/use website for atomik and they should replace it no problem. Im seeing a lot of remarks about the gyro esc failing.
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Old Feb 16, 2013, 03:07 PM
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Originally Posted by davehour View Post
Nice clips Chris, and very instructive. It's great to see how the bike reacts while running. The countersteering is easily seen in the videos.

David
Thanks David, the countersteering is very easy to see all right. That's how I turn the bike tight once the bike is tipping at lower speed and keeps the bike from scraping the bars. It blows me away how little steering is needed and how reactive the bike is.
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Old Feb 16, 2013, 04:03 PM
MY '75 CZ "FALTA REPLICA" 2010
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Waterford, Michigan
Joined May 2006
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[QUOTE=chktm;24149249]Did a forward facing run for those interested.
Atomik MM450 go pro on board forward facing (1 min 47 sec)
[/QUOTE

Thanks Chris, You just cost me another 4 hundy, and another threatening diatribe from the wifey explaining why I don't need a black (or any other color) GoPro
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Old Feb 16, 2013, 04:06 PM
MY '75 CZ "FALTA REPLICA" 2010
TopDave's Avatar
Waterford, Michigan
Joined May 2006
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[QUOTE=TopDave;24155531]
Quote:
Originally Posted by chktm View Post
Did a forward facing run for those interested.
http://youtu.be/x3YBMPoeJHg[/QUOTE

Thanks Chris, You just cost me another 4 hundy, and another threatening diatribe from the wifey explaining why I don't need a black (or any other color) GoPro
PS By the way did you order the motor sports version or what
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Old Feb 16, 2013, 05:04 PM
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This is what I found while doing an inspection to the gyro:

This might explain why many have their gyros fail after a while. My bike has about 60 runs. I also found the flywheel wobbles a bit, and needs some balancing too. But I think the wobble is the worst of all as rotating at 12,000rpm will produce a lot of side by side vibrations. The flywheel ball bearings are loose in the housings too . Let see how I can fix the insulation issue. The design doesn't protect the wire much.
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Old Feb 16, 2013, 05:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrh347 View Post
G'day guys first post on here.I've had my MM450 for a week now & the gyro has stopped working.There seems to be power running to it as you can feel a slight vibration in the wheel.
Any ideas would be appreciated.
CHEERS
Hook up your main motor ESC to the gyro wires to check if the ESC has taken a dump. You can actually use a spare ESC to power up the gyro plugged into the third channel.
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Old Feb 16, 2013, 05:53 PM
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[QUOTE=TopDave;24155531]
Quote:
Originally Posted by chktm View Post
Did a forward facing run for those interested.
http://youtu.be/x3YBMPoeJHg[/QUOTE

Thanks Chris, You just cost me another 4 hundy, and another threatening diatribe from the wifey explaining why I don't need a black (or any other color) GoPro
Lol, sorry mate. I just got the std black edition and to me the quality seems unreal. I can't wait to do some different types of vids now and get cutting and do some slow mo stuff in HD. I've found a picture editor to get pics from the vids using my I pad and that's what sort of quality the film is, same as the pics. You can see every rock and leaf wizzing by lol. Looks great to me seeing it from on the bike. Personally I like the view back from the bike as you can see the acceleration and roost . It seems a bit smoother also for some reason. The camera is quite a bit heavier than Deegan though and I had to change my driving slightly braking earlier and not pushing the bike as hard as usual. Still came out good.
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Old Feb 16, 2013, 07:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davehour View Post
This is what I found while doing an inspection to the gyro:

This might explain why many have their gyros fail after a while. My bike has about 60 runs. I also found the flywheel wobbles a bit, and needs some balancing too. But I think the wobble is the worst of all as rotating at 12,000rpm will produce a lot of side by side vibrations. The flywheel ball bearings are loose in the housings too . Let see how I can fix the insulation issue. The design doesn't protect the wire much.
I have used the plasti dip in the spray can to repair the wiring insulation. Has held up fine.
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Old Feb 16, 2013, 07:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davehour View Post
This is what I found while doing an inspection to the gyro:

This might explain why many have their gyros fail after a while. My bike has about 60 runs. I also found the flywheel wobbles a bit, and needs some balancing too. But I think the wobble is the worst of all as rotating at 12,000rpm will produce a lot of side by side vibrations. The flywheel ball bearings are loose in the housings too . Let see how I can fix the insulation issue. The design doesn't protect the wire much.
David I found after many hours use ( over 100 ) there was some slop developing between the bearing and the rotor at the point where the wires went through. I used some devcon plastic steel to build up over the wiring and then filed it down so the bearing was a tight fit. I had no wire showing however even with slop. The bike was handling very squirrelly in the rear even under braking. Sorry I didn't get a pic of it filed ready for the bearing.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/newat...anageattach&p=
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Old Feb 17, 2013, 06:55 AM
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Puerto Rico, Guayama, Guayama
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Quote:
Originally Posted by razor_01 View Post
I have used the plasti dip in the spray can to repair the wiring insulation. Has held up fine.
The plastic dip sounds great. It also makes me remind about the "liquid tape" sold in hardware stores.

Quote:
Originally Posted by chktm View Post
David I found after many hours use ( over 100 ) there was some slop developing between the bearing and the rotor at the point where the wires went through. I used some devcon plastic steel to build up over the wiring and then filed it down so the bearing was a tight fit. I had no wire showing however even with slop. The bike was handling very squirrelly in the rear even under braking. Sorry I didn't get a pic of it filed ready for the bearing.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/newat...anageattach&p=
Chris, do you have a knowledge base for these bikes?, LOL.

The fit isn't that bad at the moment. I have JB weld which is equivalent to the one you used. I'll check which of these two options, or both, should I use.

Thanks for the tips guys!
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Old Feb 17, 2013, 07:53 AM
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@chktm
The forward facing video is very good, a near riders eye view.
I'm surprised you have not used a figure of eight on the track yet, or put any big jumps in.
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Old Feb 17, 2013, 02:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonathan Bradbury View Post
@chktm
The forward facing video is very good, a near riders eye view.
I'm surprised you have not used a figure of eight on the track yet, or put any big jumps in.
I was pretty impressed with the video on board JB. I quite enjoy the layout and flow of the track and having different radius berms. The track is a kidney dish shape so its not just back and forth you're always turning and setting up. The jump I put in a while ago and has worn down and is hardly there. I will be making some changes in time but really enjoy the layout and surface. There is a bit more room to add a little more track and I will get there in time and add a few more and bigger jumps. To be honest JB I have more fun running the bike than preparing a track so usually using the bike wins out lol. You can maybe see that in the state of the track haha.
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