Originally Posted by JohnnyMc

For the top mount, maybe if you made 2 thin alum side plates that match mounting holes that would fit on each side. You would add 2 extra screws and nuts, front and back of the shock mount, plus the one thru the shock eye.

Yep, that's what I would do. Plus, I would put spacers in the slots with the extra screws so you dont over-clamp them. That would spread the load over the entire area and not just a single hole.

@ThrottleJunkie, I would not be too concerned about the stregnth of these things. I find the GRP or ABS or whatever the plastic is on these bikes to be stronger than I expected, and at least as strong as your typical Traxxas or Losi truck plastic. Replacements are cheap too.

I would love to see more aluminum frame parts made but that would just make the plastic parts break faster. Unless you could replace every single part of the bike with aluminum, that would be awesome.....

Originally Posted by JohnnyMc

Looking around locally and nobody had chktm's suggested BEL RAY Super Clean Chain Lube, so I will need to shop online. Browsing the internet I ran into another product that Im seeing nothing but good reviews from bikers for and a little cheaper: DuPont Teflon Chain-Saver Lubricant.

Anyone heard of it? What about using on bearings? I might have to try it out.

You can get Bel Ray at Cyclegear. There's one in Oxnard....

Thanks, but Im 2hrs north of Oxnard. Local Yamaha and Auto stores didnt carry it so I tried at least but online is option I'm taking now.

I went for this lube seems good so far.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3008159553...84.m1439.l2649

This talk of chain lubes has made me wonder if the lube could be contributing to TJ's frame break. The wrong lubes will affect the plasticisers in the frame material. Mineral lubes and plastics really don't mix.

Originally Posted by davehour

Received the Atomik Nylon upgrade: It's really a downgrade. Ordering some 1/4" nylon bars...http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-ny...6-rods/=ladm6s

Chris, I received the 1.2 pistons and filled the spare big bore shock with AE 70. Damping is somewhat similar (I'll be able to tell more after I remove the one from the bike) I'll swap shocks and see how there handling compare. The shock I have in the bike has 1.3 pistons with an unknown mixture of AE80 and Ofna 5,000. I also bought a bottle of AE 2,000 CST and AE 3,000 CST to compare them to the unknown mixture I'm using in the bike, and have an idea of its actual CST value.

David

David

Cool David, I have yet to test the 1.3 3000wt but will do that soon.

Originally Posted by Gaz-b

I went for this lube seems good so far.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3008159553...84.m1439.l2649

That's the sort of lube I use also Gaz. It's a wax type film that is supposed to not attract dirt. I can't see TJs failure being related to chain lube sorry Gaz.

Originally Posted by JohnnyMc

Thanks, but Im 2hrs north of Oxnard. Local Yamaha and Auto stores didnt carry it so I tried at least but online is option I'm taking now.

John there is plenty of other brands that make a dry wax spray on type lube. I'm sure you'll find one. David had some choices online I think. Maybe he can help?

Originally Posted by chktm

That's the sort of lube I use also Gaz. It's a wax type film that is supposed to not attract dirt. I can't see TJs failure being related to chain lube sorry Gaz.

I used to work in a hobby shop and remember a car being brought back with broken suspension the guy was arguing that the WD40 he had oiled and cleaned it with was not an issue the car was getting lower on the counter without being touched as it was cracking and breaking. I knew what he had used as I could smell it.

Originally Posted by Gaz-b

I used to work in a hobby shop and remember a car being brought back with broken suspension the guy was arguing that the WD40 he had oiled and cleaned it with was not an issue the car was getting lower on the counter without being touched as it was cracking and breaking. I knew what he had used as I could smell it.

Must have been a cheap sh$@&@ car as Losi and AE recommend cleaning their plastic bits with WD 40 lol.

Any petroleum or solvent based lubes can weaken plastic parts so use silicone lubes instead.

Originally Posted by Chris Nicastro

Any petroleum or solvent based lubes can weaken plastic parts so use silicone lubes instead.

Thanks Chris. Triflow is also a very useful line of Teflon lubes some that are dry great for exposed gears. .

Fixed should be a lot stronger now i just have to mark & drill the rest of the adjusting holes but 2 will do for now & when i do get another chassis i can fit these to it as well.

Originally Posted by Throttlejunkie

Fixed should be a lot stronger now i just have to mark & drill the rest of the adjusting holes but 2 will do for now & when i do get another chassis i can fit these to it as well.

Nice .

Originally Posted by Throttlejunkie

Fixed should be a lot stronger now i just have to mark & drill the rest of the adjusting holes but 2 will do for now & when i do get another chassis i can fit these to it as well.

If I am correct that cross brace appears to be fabricated alum
Despite from being a nice bit of work can you expand on why you changed from the original plastic moulding

Thanks Jim