Originally Posted by Banjo5

I think the earlier replies covered things off, but maybe I missed this subtlety. Since you're using this on a T-copter, I assume you need to power a yaw servo too. So that means you need power supplied somewhere on M2-8 for it as well (lots of people seem to miss this statement in the manual).

So, to stay aligned with KK's philosophy of having separate power supplies for the board (and RX) and then any servos you still need two separate sources of power.

Report back on how you solved things so we can all learn.

cheers,
Andrew

Hi Andrew,

I finally figured out there was no power (volts) to M2-M8 and my servo, plugged into M4 was not powered so not working. I knew that my sons T-copter that was working using three ESC with BECs was working and had been flying great, there had to be something missing, Which of course as you have indicated was a power supply to M2-8.

I hadn't read your post until after I had found a solution. I started by applying power to M1 and found that there was no power being supplied to M2-8 but if I plugged power into M2 I had power to M3-8.
My work around for powering M2-M8 was to plug a jumper from my Rx Battery/Bind port into M8, this put power to M2-M7 and I now have a working servo on M4 (Yaw control on my T-copter). So my sons T-copter has two ESC that put power to M2 and M3 supplying power to the rudder servo on M4, should we remove one of the power wires from one of these two?

My T-copter is flying but has a intermittent blip on the pitch channel which bumps the nose down a couple of degrees which you can both see and hear. I removed the signal wire from my jumper that supplies power to M2-M7 thinking that may have been causing it but that wasn't it. Any one have any ideas?? Should I remove the power wires from the two ESC on M2 & M3? I'll keep testing to see what removes the glitch and report back if or when I solve the problem.

Thanks for your help,

jb

Originally Posted by Banjo5

On the ESC, based on reading stuff only, FWIW I would go with the 12A ones if I was buying again. I haven't flown the 10A ones that I have.

Pretty sure you can power the KK2 through the RX. I'm just about to try it out testing my quad wiring. If I doesn't work I'll let you know ASAP.

BTW, cool looking quad.

Nope, my tricopter hasn't been rebuilt since this "Yard Sale" "unplanned landing" back in October. I hope to get it going again before too long. I have some 3mm G10 equivalent material coming from my brother, or so he says. Swapped him some eggs for it.

Anyway, back to wiring up my Armattan CNC355 Quad. We'll have to get together to go flying in a bit.

cheers,
Andrew

Aww poor baby, lol on the "title" you bestowed upon her.
mmm 3mm G10... i mean eggs. heh Hmm could make some nice Tricopter center plates with that...

Thanks and Nice you got a CNC355! I built-up my Amattan290 awhiles back (C20 2050kv,SimonK F-30,7x4.5x2) and have only hovered it around indoors so far... but it flys Awesome! I've been thinking of upgrading my Alu rectangle arms to the CNC ones.. they do look stronger and "prettier" , I look forwards to seeing your build and flying with you soon.
Take care.

Originally Posted by JIMBAKER

Hi Andrew,

I finally figured out there was no power (volts) to M2-M8 and my servo, plugged into M4 was not powered so not working. I knew that my sons T-copter that was working using three ESC with BECs was working and had been flying great, there had to be something missing, Which of course as you have indicated was a power supply to M2-8.

I hadn't read your post until after I had found a solution. I started by applying power to M1 and found that there was no power being supplied to M2-8 but if I plugged power into M2 I had power to M3-8.
My work around for powering M2-M8 was to plug a jumper from my Rx Battery/Bind port into M8, this put power to M2-M7 and I now have a working servo on M4 (Yaw control on my T-copter). So my sons T-copter has two ESC that put power to M2 and M3 supplying power to the rudder servo on M4, should we remove one of the power wires from one of these two?

My T-copter is flying but has a intermittent blip on the pitch channel which bumps the nose down a couple of degrees which you can both see and hear. I removed the signal wire from my jumper that supplies power to M2-M7 thinking that may have been causing it but that wasn't it. Any one have any ideas?? Should I remove the power wires from the two ESC on M2 & M3? I'll keep testing to see what removes the glitch and report back if or when I solve the problem.

Thanks for your help,

jb

Hey Jim,

Glad you've got it all figured. The conventional wisdom is that if your ESC's have linear BEC's then you can leave them all plugged in. If they have switching BEC, then you need to have one for M1 and only one other on M2-8.

On my tricopter I used HK F20 ESC's and used all three of them stock, with all the wires.

It's in the KK2 manual. Some of the other SW type info has been superseded with the newer firmware, check the release notes for all the releases to get the whole picture. There are links in post #1 of this thread.

Good luck with getting it all going.

cheers,
Andrew

I had my maiden flight with my Armattan CNC355 today. Thanks to a crash into the snow, I had an opportunity to experience the effect where the gyro freaks out due to great changes in temperature. I had been drying the KK2 (etc.) using the heater in the van then tried to fly too soon after. It was cold enough outside that the KK2 had the quad spinning in circles. I then remembered reading about the gyro being sensitive to changes in temperature so I left it a few minutes. Once the board cooled to the ambient temperature it flew great!

Here's the video... nothing fancy just a simple maiden flight.

Armattan CNC 355 Maiden Flight complete with crash! (10 min 58 sec)

Had a quick session out flying HT-FPV and TBS clone quads both with KK2 board installed. Great boards.

Quadcopter Flight Testing at Green Lane (4 min 40 sec)

Originally Posted by Freakazoid

See if the dropouts coincide with people using ppmsum input perhaps.

I run CPPM on mine with erratic throttle too. Will try without when weather permits.

Fred

Originally Posted by rexless

I had my maiden flight with my Armattan CNC355 today. Thanks to a crash into the snow, I had an opportunity to experience the effect where the gyro freaks out due to great changes in temperature. I had been drying the KK2 (etc.) using the heater in the van then tried to fly too soon after. It was cold enough outside that the KK2 had the quad spinning in circles. I then remembered reading about the gyro being sensitive to changes in temperature so I left it a few minutes. Once the board cooled to the ambient temperature it flew great!

Here's the video... nothing fancy just a simple maiden flight.
http://youtu.be/57zlntEcS_U

Nice 355 build, she's smooth n stable and pretty cool you got deviation working well on your Devo10. I'm waiting on the standard UI to give 'er another try, I had short-time to try b4 Xmas... didn't end well.... so re-flashed my Devo10 to stock.

My KK2's need to climatize to outside temp. for 10-15mins before It's safe to fly them. I tried to short-cut the time... and both my X250 and V-tail freaked-out pretty much like yours did.
My KK2 V-tail is fine in the cold, it's more me that's not so fine in the cold!
After test-flight I found the model settings were messed, on hi-rates Ail was only 65% w/+30 expos! Bumped to 100% w/0 expos... and she's much more spry now!

KK2 V tail re build and piros (4 min 25 sec)

Originally Posted by rumbey

Had a quick session out flying HT-FPV and TBS clone quads both with KK2 board installed. Great boards.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TL-oHifuCCA

Too much fun!

What camera are you using for fpv?

Originally Posted by vpsporb

Nice 355 build, she's smooth n stable and pretty cool you got deviation working well on your Devo10. I'm waiting on the standard UI to give 'er another try, I had short-time to try b4 Xmas... didn't end well.... so re-flashed my Devo10 to stock.

My KK2's need to climatize to outside temp. for 10-15mins before It's safe to fly them. I tried to short-cut the time... and both my X250 and V-tail freaked-out pretty much like yours did. My KK2 V-tail is fine in the cold, it's more me that's not so fine in the cold!
After test-flight I found the model settings were messed, on hi-rates Ail was only 65% w/+30 expos! Bumped to 100% w/0 expos... and she's much more spry now!
http://youtu.be/99c_8-YSIDc

Thanks! What is standard UI?
Your V tail is sweet. The lights look great on it, there's really something to be said for the shape. My biggest issue with quads is keeping the orientation clear in my mind. the shape and lights must help a lot.

Originally Posted by brontide

It will not bring the craft to a stop, it will level it, but any momentium will keep the craft moving in that direction.

The SL is P only, there is no I, but there is a limit.

Just been out and its flying pretty nice, easily twitchy enough for me and no osilations. SL is just great works very well!

Next question is what do you set the voltage alarm to? I set it to 11.1 and its beeping after about 1min. The screen shows 11.6 with no load after landing.

Originally Posted by vpsporb

If I understand Jasmine2501 correctly, I could plug the external BEC into the Gear or Aux2 ch on the RX for power, and the 5V will transfer via the Rudd connector from the RX to the KK2 board, like how it's wired in the pic... Yes?
Or will I have to connect the ext. BEC to M1 and go into mixer and copy M1 to M5 like another user proposes and it'll run like that?

Yes exactly like the first picture. Just plug your BEC into any open port on that receiver, and that will power everything. I used Spektrum so the ports I used are different but it's the same idea.

IMPORTANT: I'm using ESCs that don't provide any power. If you're using ESCs that provide power, please do it a different way - power through one of the motor ports.

Originally Posted by edk83

Just been out and its flying pretty nice, easily twitchy enough for me and no osilations. SL is just great works very well!

Next question is what do you set the voltage alarm to? I set it to 11.1 and its beeping after about 1min. The screen shows 11.6 with no load after landing.

My limit is 3.5 v/cell, or 10.5 v (setting = 105).

Originally Posted by edk83

Just been out and its flying pretty nice, easily twitchy enough for me and no osilations. SL is just great works very well!

Next question is what do you set the voltage alarm to? I set it to 11.1 and its beeping after about 1min. The screen shows 11.6 with no load after landing.

Sounds like you need higher rated batteries. I would not go below 108 personally since just because the average is 3.5 doesn't mean that you are not pushing one cell into the red zone,

Originally Posted by vpsporb

My KK2 V-tail is fine in the cold, it's more me that's not so fine in the cold!
After test-flight I found the model settings were messed, on hi-rates Ail was only 65% w/+30 expos! Bumped to 100% w/0 expos... and she's much more spry now!
http://youtu.be/99c_8-YSIDc

Hey vpsporb, is that the Hunter V-tail 400?

If so I'm building the same one with a KK2 and was wondering if you used the same settings for the KK2 as tech69x posted here, ie., reversed the motor rotation, etc.?

Originally Posted by harrym

Too much fun!

What camera are you using for fpv?

They are not geared up for FPV yet, but I'll be trying my gopro once a VTx turns up