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Old Feb 14, 2013, 06:01 PM
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United States, AZ, Mesa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RC911 View Post
If your receiver has a free channel you can connect your UBEC there. If all RX outputs are occupied, follow Steveis' suggestion.
That is what I did and it really helps save wiring.
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Old Feb 14, 2013, 06:53 PM
5th
Mediocre Pilot Extraordinaire
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United States, OR, Eugene
Joined Jun 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by knobby1 View Post
and the props won't spin unless the board is armed
I just have to chime in here:

While you may be right that this is the way it is SUPPOSED to work, my thumb says that it is not always the reality:



About 2 weeks ago I foolishly thought I would be able to keep my hands clear of the props and hold the craft down during a calibration should they decide to spin up. As soon as my KK2.0 with FW 1.5 powered up all four props went to full throttle. It turns out my foolish assumption was wrong. I could not control the craft and the above is the result... after I spent 2 hours trying to stop the bleeding and got all the flesh tucked back under that flap. It undercut my cuticle and severed most of the thumbnail underneath. It's a lot better now, but I estimate it will be at least two more months before my nail grows back out.

I was incredibly lucky that was all the damage I got. At a conservative 6000 RPMs, the blade tips pass through your skin at a rate of 200 times per second, and with 10" props those tips are moving at approximately 178 mph. At that rate the tips are like a thousand little daggers ripping at your skin. It's painful and quite frightening.

Please, do not work based on what is supposed to happen, because your props don't care about that. Take them off to calibrate EVERY time... please.

[/soapbox]
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Old Feb 14, 2013, 07:09 PM
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Joined Jun 2008
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Same to me....!!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by 5th View Post
I just have to chime in here:

While you may be right that this is the way it is SUPPOSED to work, my thumb says that it is not always the reality:



About 2 weeks ago I foolishly thought I would be able to keep my hands clear of the props and hold the craft down during a calibration should they decide to spin up. As soon as my KK2.0 with FW 1.5 powered up all four props went to full throttle. It turns out my foolish assumption was wrong. I could not control the craft and the above is the result... after I spent 2 hours trying to stop the bleeding and got all the flesh tucked back under that flap. It undercut my cuticle and severed most of the thumbnail underneath. It's a lot better now, but I estimate it will be at least two more months before my nail grows back out.

I was incredibly lucky that was all the damage I got. At a conservative 6000 RPMs, the blade tips pass through your skin at a rate of 200 times per second, and with 10" props those tips are moving at approximately 178 mph. At that rate the tips are like a thousand little daggers ripping at your skin. It's painful and quite frightening.

Please, do not work based on what is supposed to happen, because your props don't care about that. Take them off to calibrate EVERY time... please.

[/soapbox]
5th , The same exact thing happened to me a few months ago with the props on, I couldn`t believe the speed and power of the motors, my fingers are about 90% healed now. Thats one of the main reasons I made up the switch, if there is a problem I can instantly remove fingers from the buttons. But with the clothes pins method, the buttons are locked on till you reach over and yank them off....!!!!
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Old Feb 14, 2013, 07:13 PM
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United States, MI, Morrice
Joined Jan 2013
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I tried the plug in battery then plug ESC into M1 to do the calibration, Guess what? Props started to spin, I came out the same as I started, got lucky.... Take the props off or take your chances.
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Old Feb 14, 2013, 07:27 PM
Stop me before I build again!
United States, NY, Albany
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During calibration the throttle is passed thought to all motors.... If the ESCs are not in programming mode then that will translate into a spinning prop. You should always remove the prop or neuter one of the 3 motors legs so that it can't achieve any speed.
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Old Feb 14, 2013, 07:33 PM
Chris
The Netherlands, NB, Eindhoven
Joined Sep 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteFox50 View Post
Ok I discovered that even when the auto-level is set to "aux" and you don't have a wire connected to your aux channel, the auto-level will remain activated as a default setting. I had turned the gains down in effort to disable it til im ready to tune it. I have aileron and elevator now, but no yaw.....
Is this the best way to disable auto-leveling and stabilization?
I want to use the KK2 just as a bypass for the moment (don't wanna mess with the wiring).

Can I set everything to zero, and start increasing P gains when I feel ready for stabil/leveling?
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Old Feb 14, 2013, 07:52 PM
5th
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United States, OR, Eugene
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cmavr8 View Post
Is this the best way to disable auto-leveling and stabilization?
I want to use the KK2 just as a bypass for the moment (don't wanna mess with the wiring).

Can I set everything to zero, and start increasing P gains when I feel ready for stabil/leveling?
It would be easier to disable SL by setting it to STICK. Then it is truly off and you can land and turn it on if you want.
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Old Feb 14, 2013, 08:02 PM
Chris
The Netherlands, NB, Eindhoven
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Originally Posted by 5th View Post
It would be easier to disable SL by setting it to STICK. Then it is truly off and you can land and turn it on if you want.
I can only find a setting for self-leveling. And I've set that to an AUX channel, I can disable/enable it at will.

The thing is, I want to disable stabilization, too!
Setting the gains to zero doesn't work. I loose almost all manual control of the control surface!
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Old Feb 14, 2013, 08:14 PM
Stop me before I build again!
United States, NY, Albany
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cmavr8 View Post
I can only find a setting for self-leveling. And I've set that to an AUX channel, I can disable/enable it at will.

The thing is, I want to disable stabilization, too!
Setting the gains to zero doesn't work. I loose almost all manual control of the control surface!
Without stabilization a multirotor is unflyable. Why would you want that?

Kk2 without self-level is flying in rate mode ( gyro correction ). I know of no lower level control feedback that would be usable.
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Old Feb 14, 2013, 08:18 PM
Chris
The Netherlands, NB, Eindhoven
Joined Sep 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brontide View Post
Without stabilization a multirotor is unflyable. Why would you want that?

Kk2 without self-level is flying in rate mode ( gyro correction ). I know of no lower level control feedback that would be usable.
You're right...
I'm using it on a plane, which is flyable without a gyro...
Yes, I know, I should flash openaero, but I don't have a programmer yet

Anyway, I guess I'll have to wait or find a way to use my arduino as a flasher... any hints? Can't tell if KKflashtool supports it
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Old Feb 14, 2013, 08:54 PM
Chris
The Netherlands, NB, Eindhoven
Joined Sep 2010
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After searching 3 separate times, I finally found some info... (on my phone, in bed, lol)

http://arduinodev.woofex.net/2013/02...n-arduino-uno/
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Old Feb 14, 2013, 10:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RC911 View Post
If your receiver has a free channel you can connect your UBEC there. If all RX outputs are occupied, follow Steveis' suggestion.
Hi RC911,

So I could power the KK2 board through the receiver, just plug the BEC into the battery/bind slot, is that correct?

Thanks,

jb
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Old Feb 14, 2013, 11:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JIMBAKER View Post
Hi RC911,

So I could power the KK2 board through the receiver, just plug the BEC into the battery/bind slot, is that correct?

Thanks,

jb
You can plug the BEC into any free slot on the receiver - all the power pins on the RX are connected together. Then you only need one full set of wires going to your KK board, and signal wires only for the rest of the channels.

So for example (see my video above) - I plug my BEC into the AUX1 of the receiver, and that powers the receiver. Then I run a full 3-wire servo cable from the GEAR channel on the receiver, to AUX on the KK board. Then, for the elevator, throttle, aileron, and rudder channels, I only run the signal wire. That powers the KK and the receiver and keeps your bind port open for binding.
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Old Feb 14, 2013, 11:24 PM
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Originally Posted by jasmine2501 View Post
I have a cut on my hand right now because the props spun up when i tried to calibrate. It's just a good idea to take the props off. I don't know what happened but somehow it spun up.
+1. Having just 1.5 seconds between me and a painful experience is not very comforting.
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Old Feb 14, 2013, 11:27 PM
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someone once told me if you dont spill blood working on something its not done right lol
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