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Old Feb 12, 2013, 03:16 PM
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United States, NY, Albany
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tom83 View Post
Had a quick question about my KK2 board that I received yesterday. Everything looks great on the front of the board but when I turned it over there was soldering covering multiple pins. I have not powered up the unit for fear it may short. Can anyone tell if I will need to remove some solder?

Thanks

tom83
Wow, even I can solder better than that.... and that's saying a lot! You might want to take a stiff brush and see if you can knock off any of the random solder bits between the pins and clean it with a little alcohol ( denatured or other electronics cleaner ).
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Old Feb 12, 2013, 03:18 PM
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Canada, ON, Harrowsmith
Joined Jan 2012
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lol
I would think after spending that kind of coin on a naza you would tripple heatshrink and rubber dip it then wrap it in foam to protect it,
Rather than taking it apart to see the same quality of soldering hidden under its shell, so you don't see it

I have seen a few that would blow your mind!
It's just the way assembly lines work that are done by hand, and sometimes badly callibrated computer lines too

As far as the glob on the right side, I would maybe remove some if you have soldering skills or a small file (carefully), but like they say here its a ground



Quote:
Originally Posted by goldsworthy View Post
Now thats quality! Hobby King quality! you dont find solder jobs like that one on a NAZA!
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Old Feb 12, 2013, 03:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by irun4fundotca View Post
lol
I would think after spending that kind of coin on a naza you would triple heat shrink and rubber dip it then wrap it in foam to protect it,
Rather than taking it apart to see the same quality of soldering hidden under its shell, so you don't see it

I have seen a few that would blow your mind!
It's just the way assembly lines work that are done by hand, and sometimes badly calibrated computer lines too

As far as the glob on the right side, I would maybe remove some if you have soldering skills or a small file (carefully), but like they say here its a ground
I own 2 NAZAs I just took 1 apart to take a look. You get what you pay for with a NAZA great performance with none of the technical stuff getting in the way. I was flying less than 2 hours after the NAZA arrived. You can find used NAZAs for less than $100.00
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Old Feb 12, 2013, 03:56 PM
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Originally Posted by tom83 View Post
Can anyone tell if I will need to remove some solder?
You can compare it with the pictures in this post.
The worker must have had a really bad day.

Fred
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Old Feb 12, 2013, 04:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goldsworthy View Post
I own 2 NAZAs I just took 1 apart to take a look. You get what you pay for with a NAZA great performance with none of the technical stuff getting in the way. I was flying less than 2 hours after the NAZA arrived. You can find used NAZAs for less than $100.00
That's a good deal, you have to be watching the threads closely to find one that cheap as they go fast, I'm aware of the ease of setup and less configuration

I'm just saying they are overpriced tho

I like to do the setup more than fly most of the time ,even though it can be frustrating at times, but you can't beat the learning you get, and pride when you go the self build route, I find you drive it less like it's stolen too ..so to speak or even better because of costs being reduced you can
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Old Feb 12, 2013, 04:14 PM
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I got my kk2 board yesterday, flashed it to 1.5 and fitted it too my sk450 new build. This is my first quad so pretty much went with the factory settings on the board, the only thing I did was to calibrate the acc and throttle, checked the receiver signal for direction and all zeroed out, which were all fine. Took it out the street for a quick maiden after checking motor direction and the blades were right and it just wanted to bank heavy front left, as if motor 1 was running at a different speed. Tried this with AL on and off with no real difference. The only thing I can think of was I lifted the right side to plug the battery in and I'm not sure if it has to be level when initializing. Any way broke my first blade and never got off the ground, I'm a good Helicopter pilot and can fly my Align 450 inverted so know its not my skills at fault here. Obviously either the setup or a bad flash maybe, any how I've factory reset it and will try again tomorrow hopefully with better results. I took some photos of the underside of my new board and am a bit concerned at the soldering at the number 1 motor connection, but as I say they all seem to spin up fine and at the same speed.


Any thoughts or help here welcome as I'm a newbie to quads.

Thanks,
Mike.
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Old Feb 12, 2013, 05:20 PM
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Originally Posted by mblake01 View Post
I got my kk2 board yesterday, flashed it to 1.5 and fitted it too my sk450 new build. This is my first quad so pretty much went with the factory settings on the board, the only thing I did was to calibrate the acc and throttle, checked the receiver signal for direction and all zeroed out, which were all fine. Took it out the street for a quick maiden after checking motor direction and the blades were right and it just wanted to bank heavy front left, as if motor 1 was running at a different speed. Tried this with AL on and off with no real difference. The only thing I can think of was I lifted the right side to plug the battery in and I'm not sure if it has to be level when initializing. Any way broke my first blade and never got off the ground, I'm a good Helicopter pilot and can fly my Align 450 inverted so know its not my skills at fault here. Obviously either the setup or a bad flash maybe, any how I've factory reset it and will try again tomorrow hopefully with better results. I took some photos of the underside of my new board and am a bit concerned at the soldering at the number 1 motor connection, but as I say they all seem to spin up fine and at the same speed.


Any thoughts or help here welcome as I'm a newbie to quads.

Thanks,
Mike.
looks like a typical HobbyKing flux job. I'd try and clean it with flux remover or circuit board cleaner or even IPA should get rid of it.
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Old Feb 12, 2013, 05:36 PM
Addicted
United States, CO, Parker
Joined Dec 2011
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Can I use a standard 6-pin FTDI to flash the KK, assuming I make up a cable to fit between it and the KK?
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Old Feb 12, 2013, 05:40 PM
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Originally Posted by theothercliff View Post
The wires you need actually have female connectors on both sides.
Wrong!. They are called "male-to-male" in the Hobby King listing and elsewhere. The sex designation refers to the shell, not the contacts.
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Old Feb 12, 2013, 05:40 PM
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The whole board looks like a HobbyKing toss together job! you do get what you pay for at HK!
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Old Feb 12, 2013, 05:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goldsworthy View Post
The whole board looks like a HobbyKing toss together job! you do get what you pay for at HK!
My experience has been that it might not be pretty, but it works and my wallet has no problem with it. Now that board is a little extreme compared to what I have seen, but a little touch up would be easy enough if you feel it is needed. It probably isn't.

At the price, I don't mind doing a quick check and touch up job.
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Old Feb 12, 2013, 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by goldsworthy View Post
I own 2 NAZAs I just took 1 apart to take a look. You get what you pay for with a NAZA great performance with none of the technical stuff getting in the way. I was flying less than 2 hours after the NAZA arrived. You can find used NAZAs for less than $100.00
HEY!! This is a KK2 forum. I is NOT COOL to post repeatedly about how much better you think the NAZA is. If I wanted a NAZA I would have bought one, but the KK2 does the job for way less money.
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Old Feb 12, 2013, 06:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Byrdman View Post
So with that 6 pin adapter, can you flash esc's too?
Not directly. The ATmega ESCs have an array of solder pads (no connector) that you must use for flashing. Hobby King sells a separate molded plastic gizmo to do that. You must hold it by hand in proper contact.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...rch=ATmega%20a
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Old Feb 12, 2013, 06:16 PM
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Australia, QLD, Meadowbrook
Joined Sep 2012
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Originally Posted by teccer1234 View Post
I'm a bit of a dumbo regarding electronics ( it's my age, in my 70s now) so please bear with me on this, I've got two identical tricopters, one is running with KK2 v 1.2, it flies like a dream and was so easy to set up, now I've just flashed the other to V1.5 and I'm having a hell of a time trying to set it up
when the SL is off it's so aggressive so I've used stick scaling to make it more subtle, but it's still pretty rapid on the controls, when I put SL on (because of the stick scaling adjustments I made with SL off) it's much too docile, I can fly it sort of ok but not as good as the V1.2 tri so my question is what dim/stupid thing have I done wrong

you can see how my V1.2 flies so I'd like to get the 1.5 like it as well
http://youtu.be/3sZ3EaD2nIw

I know all these figures are wrong but I'm sure some of you bright intelligent guys out there maybe able to get me somewhere nearer the mark

info, the left motor and the elevator motor are ccw and the right motor is cw

TIA
Ray

PI EDITOR
AL+EL
P 63
LIMIT25
I GAIN 5
LIMIT3

RU
P70
LIMIT25
I GAIN 50
LIMIT10

STICK SC
AL 12 EL 12 RU40 TH 100

SL
P60 LIMIT 20

MIXER ED
1 TH 100 AL-55 EL 60 RU 0 OFFSET 0
2 100 65 60 0 0
3 100 60 -100 -70 0
4 0 0 0 -95 20
Hey Buddy. First off, well done on the vid. I hope I wil be still flying that well in my 70's.
Second, even though you have 2 identical tri's they will have subtle differences as will the 2 KK2's so they will "set up" differently. If you are happy with 1.2 and it does what you want it to then leave it.
As for the other one on 1.5 the SL mode will be doughy. In order to dumb it down in acro mode you can try using either rates or expo on your Tx but as you said it will be even dumber in SL and changing to high rate in SL can mean a lot of switches going from one to the other.
I will probably get jumped on here but this is what worked for me in the same situation.
I noticed in your numbers, your limits are quite low. The limits are kind of like a power distribution thing i.e. it determines the amount of available power allocated for a particular function.
I am assuming the numbers you quote are for the 1.5 firmware.
So, with your A/E "P" at 63 and the limit at 25 the gain will have less effect than, say, P 63 and Limit 100 and the "I'", which adds precission to the controll (5 and 3) again, will have little effect. Try raising your "P" limit but be warned it will make the "P" gain more effective then raise the "I" gain and limit to get a more precise feel.
Do this a little bit at a time and only 1 gain/limit at a time so you can track your results. Keep playing with it untill you are happy with the way it flies.
As for the SL, the higher the numbers, the more sensetive it will be. I'm not sure how or even if the sensetivity ties in with stick response but it may be and I stress, may be, the more authority you give SL the less responsive stick commands are.
Unfortunatly, no one can tell you which numbers will work with your Tri's, it is just a matter of having an understanding of how it works, how to recognise issues with the flight controlls and how to adjust the gains and limits to fix them.
Again, unfortunatly, unless you have an experienced pilot with you, trial and error is about the only way to solve your problems. So..... deep breath and go do it. Keep track of what you have changed and the result.
I hope this can help you.

Cheers. Pete.
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Old Feb 12, 2013, 06:21 PM
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Australia, QLD, Meadowbrook
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Originally Posted by kaptondave View Post
Not directly. The ATmega ESCs have an array of solder pads (no connector) that you must use for flashing. Hobby King sells a separate molded plastic gizmo to do that. You must hold it by hand in proper contact.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...rch=ATmega%20a
Bugger...... I spent almost 2 hrs making 1
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