Originally Posted by Byrdman

So with that 6 pin adapter, can you flash esc's too?

I bought my programmer and 6 pin adapters separately on eBay. My programmers came with 10 pin output, a 10 pin extender cable, and a 10 pin hood to allow you to do it the cheap (and difficult) way of soldering wire wrap wire to the 10 pin hood and tack soldering the wires to the ESC. That 10 pin hood is handy if you are going to "roll your own" connection to the ESC. You will also need some big heat shrink for the ESC boards.

The 6 pin adapter is for the KK2 and doesn't help for ESC's. ESC's require first of all determining the brand of CPU. I have Atmel CPU's in my ESC's and bought one of those HobbyKing $20 CPU clips. Expensive, but it makes the job a simple one. Once you know where the CPU is, carefully cut a flap in the heat shrink (unless there is a heat sink plate covering it). Connecting the ESC for programming is as quick as cutting the flap.

Originally Posted by flarssen

BECs on M2-M4 doesn't do anything as long as there are no servos connected, but usually it doesn't hurt to have them there either.

Fred

I will get new ESCs to test on mine. Only one ESC has BEC (TBS ESCs) I have 2 servos for gimbal on m7 and m8. Can i just connect input voltage from M1 to lets say M4?

Originally Posted by Paps1984

I will get new ESCs to test on mine. Only one ESC has BEC (TBS ESCs) I have 2 servos for gimbal on m7 and m8. Can i just connect input voltage from M1 to lets say M4?

That is generally frowned upon because the KK2 does not have it's own voltage regulator and there is concern of brownouts or noise from servo sharing the 5v supply.

Originally Posted by brontide

That is generally frowned upon because the KK2 does not have it's own voltage regulator and there is concern of brownouts or noise from servo sharing the 5v supply.

OK. But isnt that the issues aswell as if you use ESC with BEC separately on M4 for example. So i guess best way would be to just use 4Cell NiMh or somthing on M5 maybe?

I'm a bit of a dumbo regarding electronics ( it's my age, in my 70s now) so please bear with me on this, I've got two identical tricopters, one is running with KK2 v 1.2, it flies like a dream and was so easy to set up, now I've just flashed the other to V1.5 and I'm having a hell of a time trying to set it up
when the SL is off it's so aggressive so I've used stick scaling to make it more subtle, but it's still pretty rapid on the controls, when I put SL on (because of the stick scaling adjustments I made with SL off) it's much too docile, I can fly it sort of ok but not as good as the V1.2 tri so my question is what dim/stupid thing have I done wrong

you can see how my V1.2 flies so I'd like to get the 1.5 like it as well

Bolnuevo rocks with tri (5 min 0 sec)

I know all these figures are wrong but I'm sure some of you bright intelligent guys out there maybe able to get me somewhere nearer the mark

info, the left motor and the elevator motor are ccw and the right motor is cw

TIA
Ray

PI EDITOR
AL+EL
P 63
LIMIT25
I GAIN 5
LIMIT3

RU
P70
LIMIT25
I GAIN 50
LIMIT10

STICK SC
AL 12 EL 12 RU40 TH 100

SL
P60 LIMIT 20

MIXER ED
1 TH 100 AL-55 EL 60 RU 0 OFFSET 0
2 100 65 60 0 0
3 100 60 -100 -70 0
4 0 0 0 -95 20

Help please, Is there a way to use the KK2 board, fw 1.5, or a variation to use for camera gimbal autoleveling without using the transmitter and receiver. In other words, to use the KK2 board to self level a small hand held camera gimbal, sort of like a steadycam. Seems the the problem I am having experimenting with this is that I cannot find a way to activate the KK2 without the transmitter and not sure it will operate with no throttle. Any help would be appreciated... thanks.

Originally Posted by brontide

There is no watch down and even if the programming "froze up" I don't see it generating drops like this*. Are those experiencing drops using height dampening? ACC should be absolute and unaffected by cold, but I would have to dig a little deeper.

* I would expect either catastrophic fall or big jump then fall, not these cut-outs that some people are reporting ( and I have seen it too in very cold weather ). Unfortunately I can't reproduce it in order to quantify or fix it.

I have been flying all day and I've seen it happen several times now.
It seed to worsen at night when temps got down to minus 8.
I have height dampening turned on, so I'll see if it happens again with it turned off tomorrow.

Originally Posted by Freakazoid

I have been flying all day and I've seen it happen several times now.
It seed to worsen at night when temps got down to minus 8.
I have height dampening turned on, so I'll see if it happens again with it turned off tomorrow.

Thanks, if it only happens with height dampening on that gives me a solid lead that maybe the ACC is returning bad data ( height damp is based on acc-z value ). Then I can look for ways to identify and reject the errors. The SL rejects low-g readings, maybe we need to do the same for heigh dampening.

If you install OpenAero2 on the KK2 board, does that mean you do not need to upgrade from 1.2 to 1.5 of the standard KK2 firmware. Sorry if this is stupid question, I am brand new at this.

Originally Posted by llott70

If you install OpenAero2 on the KK2 board, does that mean you do not need to upgrade from 1.2 to 1.5 of the standard KK2 firmware. Sorry if this is stupid question, I am brand new at this.

Correct, no need to upgrade to V1.5. Just program with the OpenAero2 code.

Had a quick question about my KK2 board that I received yesterday. Everything looks great on the front of the board but when I turned it over there was soldering covering multiple pins. I have not powered up the unit for fear it may short. Can anyone tell if I will need to remove some solder?

Thanks

tom83

Originally Posted by tom83

Had a quick question about my KK2 board that I received yesterday. Everything looks great on the front of the board but when I turned it over there was soldering covering multiple pins. I have not powered up the unit for fear it may short. Can anyone tell if I will need to remove some solder?

Thanks

tom83

Now thats quality! Hobby King quality! you dont find solder jobs like that one on a NAZA!

Originally Posted by tom83

Had a quick question about my KK2 board that I received yesterday. Everything looks great on the front of the board but when I turned it over there was soldering covering multiple pins. I have not powered up the unit for fear it may short. Can anyone tell if I will need to remove some solder?

Thanks

tom83

It's OK but not elegant. It's on the ground side of the connectors. You'll be fine.

Originally Posted by tom83

Had a quick question about my KK2 board that I received yesterday. Everything looks great on the front of the board but when I turned it over there was soldering covering multiple pins. I have not powered up the unit for fear it may short. Can anyone tell if I will need to remove some solder?

Thanks

tom83

Those are rows of ground pins... so them being shorted isn't a problem, but that is rather sloppy.

Edit: Steveis types faster than I do.

Originally Posted by tom83

Had a quick question about my KK2 board that I received yesterday. Everything looks great on the front of the board but when I turned it over there was soldering covering multiple pins. I have not powered up the unit for fear it may short. Can anyone tell if I will need to remove some solder?

Thanks

tom83

I think it is supposed to be like that. One the esc side, you only need power on the first one and it will supply power on all the others. and on the Rec side, I think that is the ground side.