Originally Posted by goldsworthy

Is this KK board better than a NAZA?

Depends on what you want to do. Naza is great if your wallet is a little too heavy. ...

Originally Posted by kaz1104

Depends on what you want to do. Naza is great if your wallet is a little too heavy. ...

So, you are saying the NAZA is no different to this KK board other then price?. Thanks I thought the NAZA might offer some simpler more refined functions then the KK does I guess I was wrong. I will order the KK thanks for your honest review!

Originally Posted by RC911

I don't think anyone have succeeded in making the KK2.0 controller work as a FBL controller in a helicopter (not even the guy that published the video that you linked to). I guess the vibrations will make it unflyable.

Thanks!

Originally Posted by goldsworthy

So, you are saying the NAZA is no different to this KK board other then price?. Thanks I thought the NAZA might offer some simpler more refined functions then the KK does I guess I was wrong. I will order the KK thanks for your honest review!

Here is a link to a NAZA build thread that like any FC needs PI tuning: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1806682

Great FC, you just have to go home/or connect to a computer to tune it.

Originally Posted by goldsworthy

So, you are saying the NAZA is no different to this KK board other then price?. Thanks I thought the NAZA might offer some simpler more refined functions then the KK does I guess I was wrong. I will order the KK thanks for your honest review!

i think just for two big reasons, price and simplicity, make it a perfect choice for a first flight controller.

super cheap. could even buy extras at that cost.

has an lcd screen and buttons so you can make PID changes in the field in seconds. with a naza, you have to haul a laptop around, or take your copter inside to make changes. pain in the rear.

i hear for "features", the naza wins. like 'return to home' via gps and stuff if you lose radio link. but for "stunt" flying, the kk handles better from what i've heard.

Originally Posted by goldsworthy

So, you are saying the NAZA is no different to this KK board other then price?. Thanks I thought the NAZA might offer some simpler more refined functions then the KK does I guess I was wrong. I will order the KK thanks for your honest review!

I did not claim that a tall .. sorry. I'm sure the DJI products are fantastic .. all the advertising hype tells us so.
All systems have their stron and weak points and their bugs and problems. It is just a matter of how you work with them, and what you are trying to achieve.

Originally Posted by serrated

i think just for two big reasons, price and simplicity, make it a perfect choice for a first flight controller.

super cheap. could even buy extras at that cost.

has an lcd screen and buttons so you can make PID changes in the field in seconds. with a naza, you have to haul a laptop around, or take your copter inside to make changes. pain in the rear.

i hear for "features", the naza wins. like 'return to home' via gps and stuff if you lose radio link. but for "stunt" flying, the kk handles better from what i've heard.

Full house naza has gps, rth etc etc, and is very impressive. You can lift into a hover, then go away and make a coffee. Come back and it will still be there ... amazing. Could buy a whole carton of KK2.0 for the same money though and actually fly them. Depends on what you want to do.

uk buddycode for kk2 board for 11.27 if anyone wants one..
http://www.hobbyking.com/buddy.asp?c...0-9FD9AA50DF91

I remember reading a while ago that it was taboo to use metal standoffs and bolts through the KK2 board in case it shorted any of the copper traces. Is that still the case, or can you use metal bolts/standoffs, etc. now?

Originally Posted by flyboy320

I remember reading a while ago that it was taboo to use metal standoffs and bolts through the KK2 board in case it shorted any of the copper traces. Is that still the case, or can you use metal bolts/standoffs, etc. now?

Its not okay with any flight board to use metal fastenings, unless its a full encased job like the naza etc

Originally Posted by flyboy320

I remember reading a while ago that it was taboo to use metal standoffs and bolts through the KK2 board in case it shorted any of the copper traces. Is that still the case, or can you use metal bolts/standoffs, etc. now?

There are some traces near the mounting holes. Best to use nylon standoff's on any board only flight controller, two reasons, non conductivity and in a crash the standoff's are more likely to break before the board. I use 15mm nylon to mount the board and the same on top so I can mount / dismount the board without the use of any tools that may slip and damage the board.

Hope that helps.

Pete.

@ Kaz.... I am too slow.

Originally Posted by kaz1104

Full house naza has gps, rth etc etc, and is very impressive. You can lift into a hover, then go away and make a coffee. Come back and it will still be there ... amazing. Could buy a whole carton of KK2.0 for the same money though and actually fly them. Depends on what you want to do.

yeah it's pretty awesome. it's inspired me to start writing some code.

my idea: why code and design a whole new board, when great ones like the kk2.0 exist?

so i figured i could let the kk2.0 handle the stability/motor control/leveling. then put an arduino between the receiver and the kk2.0. with channel 5 on my radio switched off, the arduino just passes channels 1 through 4 straight out my digital pins to the kk2.0. if i turn channel 5 on, the arduino takes over and gives the kk2.0 commands via code. (autopilot, versus controlling it via the transmitter)

i've got the basics coded and working. just need to do some actual flight tests.

i've coded in support for my MTK3339 gps unit. it locks quickly and is very accurate. the only thing i haven't implemented yet is a magnetometer. i can get heading via the gps, but that's only acquired if the craft is moving. i'm sure it'll be fun trying to tune the magnetometer with high current electronics on board, not to mention the magnets in the motors. oh well, should be a fun project.

Originally Posted by flyboy320

I remember reading a while ago that it was taboo to use metal standoffs and bolts through the KK2 board in case it shorted any of the copper traces. Is that still the case, or can you use metal bolts/standoffs, etc. now?

Some of the early KK2s had traces very close to the holes. The newer ones are better but it is still best to use nylon. Better still is to use double-side adhesive foam. That provides some vibration isolation and no possibility of shorts. When I want to stack the KK2 with a power distribution board, etc., I use a 50 mm plywood square as the top layer, with counter-sink holes for the threaded fasteners (metal OK) then stick the KK2 to that.

Where does one get these KK2 boards along with a power distribution board ??

New at this stuff [ not with RC though ] thanxx

Originally Posted by Tom Eutsler

Where does one get these KK2 boards along with a power distribution board ??

New at this stuff [ not with RC though ] thanxx

KK2.0 board:

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...rol_Board.html

And if you look under multi-rotor in the left menu you will find all you need to get started.