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Old Feb 03, 2013, 03:36 AM
Specializing in RC since 1972
Temple, GA, USA
Joined Jun 2009
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Originally Posted by Brombo View Post
Hello, i read all the 99 pages of posts and apologize if i lost something..
but now i have a problem that i have not seen written, (sorry if i haven't see it)
i just charged the last KK 1.5 firmware in the KK 2.0 LCD and i have a problem with the throttle.
Now isn't possible to push up fast the throttle becouse i have a strange reaction and the Multirotor crash.. like when you want to make a flip, you push fast the throttle up, just to explain in which case i get this problem..
I made again the ESC Calibration with throttle and Receiver one by one and checked many times the travel.
What can i check to try to solve this kind of problem?
Make sure that all ESC's are set to:
LVC disabled or nicad
startup normal
default timing (unless your motor REQUIRES something different)
brake off

What happens when you (carefully) tie it down and then use that much throttle? Maybe battery drops.

Are all motors and ESC's the same?
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Old Feb 03, 2013, 03:48 AM
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arGH

Guess this one is bad... HK also had marked the ATMEL with a marker. so it does look like it was marked as a dod but still got shipped out.


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Old Feb 03, 2013, 04:05 AM
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Son, Norway
Joined Sep 2004
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Originally Posted by theothercliff View Post
It is recommended that the limits be left at default values. I would leave mine default unless I had a reason to experiment this far away from default. At least be willing to put it back to default for a test if anything acts strangely in the future.
Exactly. That was why I suggested to set it back to the default: 100.

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Originally Posted by theothercliff View Post
A better test than that if you can re-create it is to put an okl 72mhz receiver in it with the antenna hanging straight down and see if the problem goes away.
Maybe they are on 35/36/72 MHz already? There was at least one case where this behaviour was caused by glitch an 72MHz.

Fred
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Old Feb 03, 2013, 04:15 AM
AVR Dude
United Kingdom, England, Cnwll
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Originally Posted by Proteuz View Post
Guess this one is bad... HK also had marked the ATMEL with a marker. so it does look like it was marked as a dod but still got shipped out.


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Have you used that programmer connector on a kk2 before? It's not simply 180 degrees round the wrong way? Can you test on another board.
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Old Feb 03, 2013, 04:55 AM
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Croatia, Osijek-Baranja County, Valpovo
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Weight test

Stability with 4 x 2200 3s on quad
like KK2 even more

quad with 4 x 2200 3s 1.8 kg (9 min 28 sec)
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Old Feb 03, 2013, 07:43 AM
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France, Rhône-Alpes, Grenoble
Joined Sep 2009
10 Posts
hi all i don't know if it's the good place to post but i have a problem with my new kk2.0 board.

i put it on a 450 dji clone where I previouly used a KK board 5.5 blackboard. cell was flyinfg well but no self level possibility. I use now the KK2.0 lcd model and follow the string method to set up PI gain. In quad + mode it fly OK and stable, but X mode is completely unstable with sames settings :ELEV p-gain 75 i gain 45, Yaw gain 60 i gain 30 and same KK board position on the cell.

any idea ? is the "-->" important in X mode ? because my --> indicator is not straight forward in X mode but 45° right forward ( cause the board hole are dedicated for + mode ) should i rotate the board to have the --> straigh foraward in X mode ???? to make the KK2 working in X mode ?

thanks for helps
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Old Feb 03, 2013, 08:01 AM
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Son, Norway
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Originally Posted by drepou View Post
is the "-->" important in X mode ? because my --> indicator is not straight forward in X mode but 45° right forward ( cause the board hole are dedicated for + mode ) should i rotate the board to have the --> straigh foraward in X mode ???? to make the KK2 working in X mode ?
Yes, arrow should point forward, so you have to rotate it.

Fred
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Old Feb 03, 2013, 08:02 AM
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Canada, ON, Merrickville-Wolford
Joined Jun 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drepou View Post
hi all i don't know if it's the good place to post but i have a problem with my new kk2.0 board.

i put it on a 450 dji clone where I previouly used a KK board 5.5 blackboard. cell was flyinfg well but no self level possibility. I use now the KK2.0 lcd model and follow the string method to set up PI gain. In quad + mode it fly OK and stable, but X mode is completely unstable with sames settings :ELEV p-gain 75 i gain 45, Yaw gain 60 i gain 30 and same KK board position on the cell.

any idea ? is the "-->" important in X mode ? because my --> indicator is not straight forward in X mode but 45° right forward ( cause the board hole are dedicated for + mode ) should i rotate the board to have the --> straigh foraward in X mode ???? to make the KK2 working in X mode ?

thanks for helps
Yes the orientation of the board is important (in any mode), and the KK2 is 45 degrees different from older ones like your 5.5. In fact, your testing confirms and demonstrates that

cheers,
Andrew
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Old Feb 03, 2013, 08:22 AM
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Ok thanks i was thinking about and it's confirmed !

i juste have to rotate the board so ....

TO bad that there is no firmware who handle X and + mode with board fixed in the same position to fly in the two modes without any action than "load setup X or + mode" may be in the 1.6 firmware ;-)
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Old Feb 03, 2013, 08:58 AM
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United States, PA, Nesquehoning
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Quote:
Originally Posted by srepfler View Post
Stability with 4 x 2200 3s on quad
like KK2 even more

http://youtu.be/JdMiOj20trA
4x2200 lipo`s and you only got a 9 minute flight?those lipos must be weak. i can get that on 1 -2200 lipo .
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Old Feb 03, 2013, 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Proteuz View Post
Guess this one is bad... HK also had marked the ATMEL with a marker. so it does look like it was marked as a dod but still got shipped out.


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What happens if you disconnect the programmer and power up the board from an ESC on M1? Is the old firmware still intact?
The green marking doesn't necessarily indicate that the chip is defective.
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Old Feb 03, 2013, 09:27 AM
AVR Dude
United Kingdom, England, Cnwll
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Originally Posted by Proteuz View Post
Guess this one is bad... HK also had marked the ATMEL with a marker. so it does look like it was marked as a dod but still got shipped out.


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online photo storage
What are your fuse settings? Can you post a screen grab? I see the programming failed at the verification stage so the electrical connections to the programmer are OK.
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Old Feb 03, 2013, 10:18 AM
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Originally Posted by helizrnew2me View Post
4x2200 lipo`s and you only got a 9 minute flight?those lipos must be weak. i can get that on 1 -2200 lipo .
I think you missed the point? Pretty sure he was after stability not flight time!!

The heavier it is, the more stable it is, and this is his point, but flight time will suffer. I bet yours doesn't weigh anywhere near what his one does.

I've tried 1, 2, 3 and 4 2200mAh 3S and the heavier you go, the more stable it becomes and it handles any wind gusts better, but adding another battery does not double your flight time because your increasing the weight, catch 22. You should see a slight increase if you fly the same way under same conditions, otherwise we'd all be running 4 x 2200 and getting 35min, now that would be cool for AP or FPV.
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Old Feb 03, 2013, 10:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Senator315 View Post
I think you missed the point? Pretty sure he was after stability not flight time!!

The heavier it is, the more stable it is, and this is his point, but flight time will suffer. I bet yours doesn't weigh anywhere near what his one does.

I've tried 1, 2, 3 and 4 2200mAh 3S and the heavier you go, the more stable it becomes and it handles any wind gusts better, but adding another battery does not double your flight time because your increasing the weight, catch 22. You should see a slight increase if you fly the same way under same conditions, otherwise we'd all be running 4 x 2200 and getting 35min, now that would be cool for AP or FPV.
yes i can see your point ,especially dealing with wind .but other than that i dont see the need .
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Old Feb 03, 2013, 11:04 AM
efx
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Yes, that's exactly what I started doing. I did get a nice flight the first time without changing anything so I know at least I can get it hovering. I'll have to wait for the new motors with lower kv to test again as I have tuned the esc's to the recommended settings or what they allow me to change them to and so I think once that's done it's just a matter of making sure the receiver was working correctly. Meaning you have to make sure the antennas are away from any other power sources as I found out. I'm using the other kit with totally different esc's but same size and still was getting the same flipping problem, so it's down to the motors, and board or board settings from what I can tell, well there's nothing left to change. I've use the same props, well now I'm also waiting for some as I bent one, but still the same size.

For the guys getting that second or so cut off, check your esc settings. Make sure start is normal. I found out this helped me a bit as mine were on slow start. Just a thought, well either way you should check all the esc settings anyway.

Quote:
Originally Posted by theothercliff View Post
Calibrate your ESC's so that they come on just above idle, then set the min throttle so they always run slowly. It takes time for some ESC's to start when they are completely stopped. This could be a cause of flipping.

Your ESC beep menu startup parameter must be as firm (not soft) as possible.

If your limits are too high and it shuts a motor completely off, it takes too long to start it back up.

I would load factory defaults, start over, and follow the directions instead of poking funny numbers in here and there as may be advised by well meaning members.
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