They also have the same servo that is not high voltage.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...06sec_21g.html

Originally Posted by Banjo5

That looks like a good sturdy servo, something I found made a big difference on my tri.

Looking at how good the specs are on higher voltage made me wonder ... given M2-M8 power is separate from the KK2 board I don't see why you couldn't run HV servos with the appropriate power supply and isolation.

For a tri, say run a regular ESC with 5V BEC for M1, pull the red wire from the M2, M3 ESC's and then add a HV UBEC to M5 (say) to power the servo.

Might not be worth the effort, but interesting thought experiment if nothing else. Am I missing something (obvious, or otherwise)?

cheers,
Andrew

I use them on the 450 heli tail. As for breaking when you crash, frankly I think almost any servo will get ruined if hit just right. Ofcourse some faster than others. I like these because at least I know or at least they feel that they would hold up in the air a bit more than the plastic gears while doing fast or sudden maneuvers. As for a crash on any servo, that I think is pretty much a toss up. If they survive, then that's just a good crash.

They also have these similar spec servos but should be lighter with the plastic case. They look pretty good, but since the price was closer to the others, I haven't tried them yet.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...05sec_16g.html
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...10sec_16g.html

Originally Posted by thwaitm

I'd recommend you don't use this on a Tri - it'll be fine for camera movement but the output likes to shear off after light crashes or constant vibration so it's not really very robust. Fine for other lower stress stuff though and pretty quick even if the numbers aren't 100% accurate, it's not a slow servo. Just a little weak in my experience.

Originally Posted by jonesy40001

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DIY-Unive...item416ee3310f

Goodluckbuy.com has landing gears at around 15usd i think. Only fibreglass and not carbon ofc - but fit well, i use them ob my x600 and x650 as well as on my x550 octo.

Hope this helps...

Got it. Unfortunately the lvc is whatever the lowest I can go on these esc's with the programming car. I can't turned that off is what I'm trying to say. I'll use the lipo alarm that checks all cells to start out and just won't be doing anything special at the moment to get a better feel for the whole quad and get an idea of how long I can safely fly. The lipo cell checker should go off before the low voltage cut-off. My batteries are fairly new, just have been out a couple of times so I really don't want to go that low as I don't want to ruin them either.

Originally Posted by theothercliff

I'd use default timing unless I had motors that would not run reliably that way.

If you have a weak cell in your pack, you will just make it worse by using anything (LVC-in-ESC or alarm) that only watches total voltage.

If you use Low Voltage Cutoff, you will flip if you fly too long.

From best to worst, these can guarantee no battery or copter damage:
- use Lipo alarm with adjustable voltage that watches individual cells
- use Lipo alarm with non-adjustable voltage that watches individual cells

From here on down you can have damage
- carefully time your flights based on experience gained from always checking cell voltages after timed flights (stunts reduce time, different batteries have different times)
- use Lipo alarm that watches total voltage (weak cell gets weaker)
- use LVC on high (soft cutoff) (may cause copter damage, weak cell gets weaker)
- use LVC on high (hard cutoff) (will cause copter damage, weak cell gets weaker)
- use LVC not on high (even more likely to cause battery damage, possible copter damage)
- (LVC off) fly untimed flights, trying to guess how long to fly (may cause battery damage, copter usually OK)
- (LVC off) fly till it drops (will cause battery damage, copter usually OK)

Originally Posted by theothercliff

There should not be nearly that much correlation (7 minutes with low P gain and 3 with high P gain).

Oscillation with ESC brake on may cause a lot of wasted energy. Make sure all your ESC brakes are off.

Are the motors "cogging" (an incorrect term here, but people know what you mean when you use it) where they make a banging sound once in a while? This would be incorrect timing. Incorrect timing can cause excess power consumption. Use default timing unless you need something else to avoid cogging.

I am afraid that the easiest explanation is that you have damaged your battery. I run a lipo alarm that watches cells individually and has adjustable alarm voltage set to 3.5 or 3.6 under load.

Test your battery in a charger or discharger that tells you how many MAH you put in or took out. Try going back to the previous gains and see if battery life comes back to the full 7 minutes.

These are stock Turnigy 25a & 30a on 2 different airframes.
They have the default settings.

Motors sound fine, no abnormal noises.

I used 4 different batteries. 3-300/3S & 1-4000/3S and I'm using a Passport Ultra
balance charger.

I will reset to the lower Gains and see what happens.

Tnx!

Originally Posted by BiZARRE

Yes, Im using 1.5 FW.

Which direction is a negative value, and which is a positive value in the self level menu? I have tried to tune self level a little (but not trimming the transmitter), but I had no idea which value would give a good result.

I believe that left or back are negative; right or forward are positive, but I would just try a small amount at first and if it gets worse, go the other way.

It may take 50 or so to correct a medium drift. Don't be afraid to jack in a larger number if a smaller one doesn't fix it completely. I think of it as 10th's of a degree "out of level".

Thanks, theothercliff, I will try it.

But what is the point of trimming on the radio? Shouldnt I be able to get the autolevel perfect without the trim?

Originally Posted by BiZARRE

Thanks, theothercliff, I will try it.

But what is the point of trimming on the radio? Shouldnt I be able to get the autolevel perfect without the trim?

My understanding...

If you start out with the transmitter trims correct for rate mode (non-self-leveling), switch to self-level mode and change the transmitter trims to make it level, you have just unleveled the rate mode.

Sure you can use the transmitter trims for self-level mode, but understand that every click of trim is making rate mode more out of level. Make it as correct as possible with the correct procedure first. Tx trims for rate mode, then acc trims for self-level mode.

Okay. I usually fly fpv in self level, but its a good idea to get it right in rate mode first.

Originally Posted by harrym

I seem to have run into a bit of a problem and I'd like some input!.....

.....Now I'm lucky to get 2-3 minutes of flight time......

EUREKA!!! I have found the problem!!!

I'm using a "dynamite Passport Ultra" charger.
I have been using "balance charge" on all 4 of my batteries.

I happened to notice that the ma reading was only going to 700 then
the charge would terminate and say it reached capacity. I thought that was odd.
Also it would only take 17 minutes to charge a 3000mah battery.

TaDa.... There is a setting called "Max Charge Capacity" that was turned on
as a default and it was set for 700ma. So my batteries were only getting a
700ma charge. I turned it off and am charging all the batteries now.

Thank you Casey at HobbyTown for helping on this!

I kicked Murphy again!!!

Originally Posted by efx

I use them on the 450 heli tail. As for breaking when you crash, frankly I think almost any servo will get ruined if hit just right. Ofcourse some faster than others. I like these because at least I know or at least they feel that they would hold up in the air a bit more than the plastic gears while doing fast or sudden maneuvers. As for a crash on any servo, that I think is pretty much a toss up. If they survive, then that's just a good crash.

They also have these similar spec servos but should be lighter with the plastic case. They look pretty good, but since the price was closer to the others, I haven't tried them yet.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...05sec_16g.html
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...10sec_16g.html

Yeah - still think the TGY-306G is weak though and if you look around I'm not the only one that's experienced this failure mode. It's the machining, form and material of the output shaft which is to blame. Eventually it fatigues and then you get a fracture. As an owner of 2 broken ones and 1 currently still working one, my recommendation is to stay away from these for a Tri. Don't waste your $25 - buy something else.
On the tri, the servo is well protected, there is leverage from the motor atop the mount but it should pop the links or snap the horn before the shaft shears off... IMO.
You can buy replacement gears for it but they are not widely available and reputedly have the same weakness.

Can you upload a picture of that for me. I would like to see where they break as I have not seen that. Thanks.

Originally Posted by thwaitm

Yeah - still think the TGY-306G is weak though and if you look around I'm not the only one that's experienced this failure mode. It's the machining, form and material of the output shaft which is to blame. Eventually it fatigues and then you get a fracture. As an owner of 2 broken ones and 1 currently still working one, my recommendation is to stay away from these for a Tri. Don't waste your $25 - buy something else.
On the tri, the servo is well protected, there is leverage from the motor atop the mount but it should pop the links or snap the horn before the shaft shears off... IMO.
You can buy replacement gears for it but they are not widely available and reputedly have the same weakness.

Okay, I went out for another test and found out my tx stopped displaying the ppm on the screen. Everything turns on but apparently I have lost signal which caused another quad crash. Well at least I'm testing the durability of this quad and so far nothing has broken yet. It was pretty high up this time I'll post the video once I get that uploaded. In any case I opened up the futaba tx to take out the LED's I had put in it. I think that was taking up too much battery as I'm still using the original ni-cd as it works great. At the same time I thought I desolder the ppm lead from the trainer port to untangle it and make the wires a bit nicer. As I went to put the cover I noticed that the ppm was turning on and off on the screen, so I open the case again and checked the wires, everything seems fine, but still nothing on the screen. Everything else shows on the screen. I'm using the flydream DIY kit on this and the LED turns green like it's supposed to. Anyone have any idea on the ppm. I guess I got no signal until I can get that back to show up on the display. I have no idea what the heck happened, but I sure can't get the ppm or pcm letters to display on the screen. I can change the settings which I did just to see if it would work, but I changed it back to ppm and still nothing. I can get signal near the quad, but once I'm about 15 to twenty feet now, down it goes. Here's what I'm looking at. The module seems to turn on fine. Well now I know what it feels to lose complete signal, the quad likes to flip itself over and over until it hits the ground...

Originally Posted by efx

Can you upload a picture of that for me. I would like to see where they break as I have not seen that. Thanks.

I think one of the 2 still has it's main output in the case - I'll check. I'm pretty sure I threw #2's gear set out, figuring that it was junk and just additional clutter I don't need.
This is what happens when it lets go though...

TGY-306 servo failure (0 min 6 sec)

Originally Posted by efx

Okay, I went out for another test and found out my tx stopped displaying the ppm on the screen. Everything turns on but apparently I have lost signal which caused another quad crash. Well at least I'm testing the durability of this quad and so far nothing has broken yet. It was pretty high up this time I'll post the video once I get that uploaded. In any case I opened up the futaba tx to take out the LED's I had put in it. I think that was taking up too much battery as I'm still using the original ni-cd as it works great. At the same time I thought I desolder the ppm lead from the trainer port to untangle it and make the wires a bit nicer. As I went to put the cover I noticed that the ppm was turning on and off on the screen, so I open the case again and checked the wires, everything seems fine, but still nothing on the screen. Everything else shows on the screen. I'm using the flydream DIY kit on this and the LED turns green like it's supposed to. Anyone have any idea on the ppm. I guess I got no signal until I can get that back to show up on the display. I have no idea what the heck happened, but I sure can't get the ppm or pcm letters to display on the screen. I can change the settings which I did just to see if it would work, but I changed it back to ppm and still nothing. I can get signal near the quad, but once I'm about 15 to twenty feet now, down it goes. Here's what I'm looking at. The module seems to turn on fine. Well now I know what it feels to lose complete signal, the quad likes to flip itself over and over until it hits the ground...

is the white wire coming from the IS-8D module down to the TAO4A-3 a coaxial cable if so check with an ohm meter to see if you shorted it, jacket to center