Originally Posted by Steveis

Are you using CPPM?

Yes.

My problem got a little swamped 2 pages pack...
does anyone know what would be a good starting I-gain value for a mini tricopter?

Originally Posted by Freakazoid

Heheh im used to calling it ACC mode. KK got into the whole accelerometer game only recently.

And yeah, stock firmware on the escs, they're too small for me to flash.
What I did was turn I gain and P gain to zero, then raise P gain until it gets manageable.
That's pretty much where I stranded. It either flies lazy and drunk, or spastic and nervous.

First off you want to start with your p gain

Already did that, like I said, its either really nervous or really lazy.
I cant find a P gain setting where it hovers decently.

What is your servo doing

Moving nicely. Its roll/pitch thats giving me trouble.

What does it do with autolevel on

Originally Posted by GordonTarling

Yes.

Should take two seconds to undo the pin remapping and free up the pins for hex support. It will just be cppm only since there will be no way to input aux2 over PWM.

Originally Posted by brontide

Should take two seconds to undo the pin remapping and free up the pins for hex support. It will just be cppm only since there will be no way to input aux2 over PWM.

Yep, I'll do that later and add back the ability to switch self level on and off.

Originally Posted by tech69x

What does it do with autolevel on

It becomes slightly easier to keep it in a hover, but still quite a bit of jitter/drift.
With autolevel off it get much worse.

Currently ive got it on P-Gain=25, P-Limit=100, I-Gain=0, I-limit=100
With this I can just barely keep it under control, but its atrocious compared to my old KKuk board.
Are there any values that would run the same as the old KKuk with 4.7 firmware, pitch/roll pots set to about 20%?

Originally Posted by Freakazoid

It becomes slightly easier to keep it in a hover, but still quite a bit of jitter/drift.
With autolevel off it get much worse.

Can you post all of your settings and how do you have in mounted

From efx
"Each esc setting is...brake - off, batt type -li-xx, cut off - soft cut, cut off voltage - med, start mode - very soft, timing - middle, music - none, gov - off"

Some of those settings are not the standard used for Multicopter use, so may cause issues.

Brake off - good

Batt type usually set to Nicad even though using Lipo's.

Cut off - soft ok

Cut off Voltage should be min or off (thats why you use battery monitor)

Start Mode usually normal or fast.

Timing depends on motor but medium should be ok.


The main reason for setting battery to Nicad and low or no cut off is so you do not get power drop off to the motors at an inopportune moment.

With Lipo and Med volt set you will likely get one ESC shutting off power before the others, good way to crash.

Use of battery monitor for individual cells highly recommended, that beeps when cell gets low.
You can get ones that you can set alarm voltage at required value cheaply enough.

Deyrick

Originally Posted by tech69x

Can you post all of your settings and how do you have in mounted

Front left = clockwise
Front right = counter clockwise
Tail = counterclockwise
I can confirm all rotations and servo movement is in the correct direction, as I can maintain a bumpy flight.

Pitch/Roll is P-Gain=35, P-Limit=100, I-Gain=40, I-Limit=30
Yaw is P-Gain=50, P-Limit=30, I-Gain=40, I-Limit=20

Selflevel is P-Gain=40, P-Limit=20

Ive jacked stick scaling up to 100 because I hate lazy sticks.

And here I was, thinking this would be simpler than setting up a multiwii controller.. -_-

Personally, I would crank up the P gain much higher.

Originally Posted by Freakazoid

And here I was, thinking this would be simpler than setting up a multiwii controller.. -_-

I gain deals with integral error so I'm not sure it has anything to do with your bumpy flight unless the sensors are suddenly reading huge changes. How much vibration are those little motors giving off. If the frequency is high enough it gives the gyro fits and if it's strong enough it will give the acc fits. Tune P first and then look to I to smooth things out, but if no amount of play works then you may just be dealing with GIGO because the sensors are having a hard time.

Don't worry, probably still easier than MWC since you would have 10 times the buttons and knobs to play with and half the time the BT connection would not save the settings anyways ( presuming the software didn't crash first for no apparent reason ).