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Old Jan 17, 2013, 12:04 AM
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jonesy40001's Avatar
Australia, QLD, Meadowbrook
Joined Sep 2012
180 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by SDSURFnGLIDE View Post
need some clarification:

So i was able to get the S/L function working pretty well...I went back and made sure that all surfaces were level and adjusted as necessary...then re-calibrated the ACC...then i went and messed with the P settings in the SL menu:

I have ended up with 62 as it is...here is my question...i still have some oscilations...they arent bad but enough to bug..they seem like they are the fast ones not slow which if i remember right is tied to the I gain and fast is P gain....
Should i bring the P down a bit more and see what happens? I didnt take it out of SL mode to see if the oscillations stop...but i dont know that it flies really well when not in SL mode so i think i just need to keep bringing the P down some more in the SL menu...

Thoughts??
There a few things you can do.
As you said, you can drop your P gain or you can drop your P limit or you can increase your I gain. all of these can produce the results you want... But... keep in mind there are a lot of variables and changing one can affect another. So... be patient and try to do all your testing in the same wind conditions, as a well behaved multi in still air can be a different beast in a breeze. Good luck.

P.S. If you can, try to tune it with SL off.

Pete.
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Old Jan 17, 2013, 12:35 AM
Multi rotors=No Paycheck left
SDSURFnGLIDE's Avatar
United States, CA, San Diego
Joined Apr 2011
3,119 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by jonesy40001 View Post
There a few things you can do.
As you said, you can drop your P gain or you can drop your P limit or you can increase your I gain. all of these can produce the results you want... But... keep in mind there are a lot of variables and changing one can affect another. So... be patient and try to do all your testing in the same wind conditions, as a well behaved multi in still air can be a different beast in a breeze. Good luck.

P.S. If you can, try to tune it with SL off.

Pete.
Thanks!...yea i actually tuned it without the sl on...it is pretty solid with it off offtoo..just a little squirly...but I've been used to flying a Naza...

I will just keep adjusting until i get the results i want.
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Old Jan 17, 2013, 01:29 AM
Specializing in RC since 1972
Temple, GA, USA
Joined Jun 2009
3,132 Posts
Remember that Self Level is broken in v1.2. Expect it to act strangely if you haven't upgraded firmware yet.
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Old Jan 17, 2013, 01:34 AM
Specializing in RC since 1972
Temple, GA, USA
Joined Jun 2009
3,132 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by rob222 View Post
hello ,how turn the motors for TRI Y4 with kk2?thanks
Does it not show clearly enough in "Show Motor Layout" menu?

Edit: I haven't looked for this type and I can imagine that there are some layouts that are not clear.
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Last edited by theothercliff; Jan 17, 2013 at 02:20 AM.
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Old Jan 17, 2013, 02:19 AM
Registered User
Japan, Tokyo
Joined Jun 2011
2,334 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by theothercliff View Post
Does it not show clearly enough in "Show Motor Layout" menu?
I think there might even be a manual for this board somewhere too...
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Old Jan 17, 2013, 04:51 AM
***** on a stick
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United Kingdom, England, Solihull
Joined Sep 2011
64 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by RC911 View Post
Nice flying and editing, but I noticed that your RX antennas are hanging loose. You risk breakage unless you attach them to the frame. I recommend using antenna tubes.
I am not really worried about that. As soon as you fix them they will break. Because the frame is collapsible I like to keep everything as flexible as possible. Especially in a crash.
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Old Jan 17, 2013, 07:06 AM
crashology student
Ontario, Canada
Joined May 2008
116 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by theothercliff View Post
You don't have metal screws or standoffs for mounting the KK2 do you? Did you ever? Carbon fiber is a no-no also.

Does the LCD light up with text if you disconnect everything and power it from the programmer through the 6 pin programming connector?
no metal ever, just nylon screws, stand-offs, and nuts; no CF anywhere; 6-pin USBasp - no "ding-ding" on connect and no text, just backlight; LazyZero's tool cannot connect to KK2 - just red error text.
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Last edited by rshep; Jan 17, 2013 at 08:02 AM. Reason: added red error text
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Old Jan 17, 2013, 07:32 AM
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Joined Oct 2010
2 Posts
Sorry if this is a really stupid question.
I am sure it has been covered,but I cannot find it..

How do I transfer the V1.4 firmware shown on First post to the Multicopter Flastool?
I have the Multicopter flashtool installed on my PC,and the required connector lead.

What I am unsure of,is how to get the zipped file into the Flashtool menu.

Many Thanks

Colin
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Old Jan 17, 2013, 07:45 AM
Pants first, then shoes
Auckland NZ
Joined Jan 2011
2,715 Posts
Flashing the KK2: How to update your firmware (4 min 51 sec)


Quote:
Originally Posted by spoons42 View Post
Sorry if this is a really stupid question.
I am sure it has been covered,but I cannot find it..

How do I transfer the V1.4 firmware shown on First post to the Multicopter Flastool?
I have the Multicopter flashtool installed on my PC,and the required connector lead.

What I am unsure of,is how to get the zipped file into the Flashtool menu.

Many Thanks

Colin
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Old Jan 17, 2013, 12:41 PM
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Belgium, Vlaams Gewest, Sint-Truiden
Joined Jul 2012
72 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by theothercliff View Post
It should work.

Start by removing all props. Really.

I can think of three possible reasons:

- Spektrum takes too long to "boot up". Try for a test: Start by disconnecting all wires from receiver to KK2. Take all props off or disconnect motors from ESC's (read on, it will become clear). Turn transmitter on. Using the ESC with BEC or other 5V power source, power receiver up by plugging ESC with BEC into unused channel. Now, with the receiver powered up, run a plug from receiver throttle channel to KK2 throttle input (like it would normally be connected). KK2 boots up. If KK2 message goes away or is replaced by some other channel not working, then the problem is that the receiver takes too long to boot up. We have proven that by booting up the receiver first and then the KK2 and the problem went away. The solution would be to run power from receiver to KK2 instead of from KK2 to receiver and to also put a switch in the power between KK2 and receiver. Start with the new switch off. Turn transmitter on. Power up receiver (plug in battery). Switch new switch on so KK2 now has power too. With alittle bit of tinkering, you could make an automatic power switch that switches on 1 second after you plug the battery in. The problem with both a manual or automatic switch is that some ESC firmwares will go into safe mode if they don't see a servo pulse within a short time. Anybody know if that is true of SimonK or BLHeli or WiiESC?

- Throttle channel is not where you think it is on receiver. You have KK2 throttle input connected to battery connection (not throttle connection) on receiver. Or to some unused channel. Use the receiver test in the KK2 to find which connection on the receiver is the throttle channel.

- Throttle channel is backwards or trimmed way off of center. Use the receiver test in the KK2 to check the centering, direction, range of throttle channel.
Wel did try almost the little test you suggested but stil with the specktrum rx itself it wont arm, and wen i plug in the extender it works.

ArmingKK2withRx (4 min 46 sec)
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Old Jan 17, 2013, 01:06 PM
RC flying addiction
Joined Dec 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GeO82 View Post
So there is a problem and no problem,
Wen i connect the kk2 board to my Spektrum ar8000,can bind it ,reciever get signal, but the board does not arm and gives a error no thro input.
Now wen i connect the spektrum extender to the rx it wil go, no error and arms just fine, this was probably how i was flying this board before.
But should it not work with only the RX connected to the kk2 board?

because with my mcfc board it wil work with only the rx and also with rx and extender.
The AR8000 was not intended to be operated without the Satellite/remote receiver, (extender as you called it). The AR 7600/7610 however was designed to operate with/without the remote receiver. The manual for the 76xx clearly states this, but the 8000 does not. That is clearly your problem/concern and there is nothing wrong with the KK2 or the AR8000.
If you try the 8000 in a traditional installation and remove the remote while powered, it will operate properly until you disconnect power and then replicate communication failure as you have observed with the KK2.
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Old Jan 17, 2013, 01:08 PM
Specializing in RC since 1972
Temple, GA, USA
Joined Jun 2009
3,132 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by rshep View Post
no metal ever, just nylon screws, stand-offs, and nuts; no CF anywhere; 6-pin USBasp - no "ding-ding" on connect and no text, just backlight; LazyZero's tool cannot connect to KK2 - just red error text.
I am not an expert about this. Cases I have heard about are usually "Light on but no text when I power it normally, but the text comes up fine if I power it via the programming 6 pin connector." The fact that yours does not work when powered via the programming connector may indicate that it is really broken.

Try pressing the right most button. I hear that there was a bug that could sometimes cause blank text till you press it.

Try a different 5v to 6V power source.

Does anything else work? Does the arming LED change if you try to arm it? Do you have the low voltage warning enabled and does it work?

You might try gently tapping the edge against a table to see if anything metal falls out (ball of solder, washer etc.)

Look for anything obvious with a magnifying glass.

Contact HobbyKing about returning it. Some report that their terrible return policy has gotten better. A video proving it is broken may be all that is required.
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Old Jan 17, 2013, 01:19 PM
Love the sport, not the plane
Hawaii
Joined Oct 2009
1,230 Posts
Can the KK2 board be used on a normal monorotor heli like a T-Rex 450 as a flybarless system? Can I use the new gimbal function without having the KK2 plugged into anything else on the heli (running on a whole separate system from the heli controls)?
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Old Jan 17, 2013, 01:45 PM
Stop me before I build again!
United States, NY, Albany
Joined Sep 2012
1,318 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by dylantorquerol View Post
Can the KK2 board be used on a normal monorotor heli like a T-Rex 450 as a flybarless system? Can I use the new gimbal function without having the KK2 plugged into anything else on the heli (running on a whole separate system from the heli controls)?
1) Technically, yes, but nobody has done it yet. I woudn't want to be number 1.
2) Yes, but you are better off just using OpenAero FW at that point and possibly even mounting the board to the gimbal.
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Old Jan 17, 2013, 02:02 PM
Specializing in RC since 1972
Temple, GA, USA
Joined Jun 2009
3,132 Posts
Best guess is that receiver takes longer to boot up when extender is unplugged. It searches for it for a while instead of finding it right away.

To test for this exact problem, you need to start by disconnecting all wires from receiver to KK2. When you leave them plugged in, then the KK2 gets power the instant that the receiver gets power.

Disconnect all wires from receiver to KK2. Switch transmitter on. Plug power (say ESC M4) into receiver UNUSED channel. Receiver now has power but KK2 does not have power. Now plug throttle wire from receiver into KK2. KK2 now has power with receiver already booted up. If this works, or at least has a problem with a different channel than throttle, then we have proven that the problem is that the receiver boots up too slow.

If you want a more complete test, you can carefully remove the red wire pin from one end of each of the 4 cables that goes from receiver to KK2 (use a straight pin or bobby pin to carefully lift the tiny tiny plastic flap a very short distance in the servo connector) and tape them back out of the way. That way the receiver will not give power to the KK2. Now turn transmitter on, then plug M4 ESC into receiver unused channel. Receiver now has power. Wait 5 seconds. Now plug the M1 ESC into KK2 M1. KK2 now has power.

Edit: I see that RC_Adik has knowledge about this and has replied.
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