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Old Jan 14, 2013, 07:33 AM
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Originally Posted by rshep View Post
Electrical question ... I have four F-30A switching ESCs on a quad, ESC#1's lead (~,+,-) to motor #1 on KK2.0; and use #2-4 signal wires only to motors #2-4.

Can I peel back #2-4's + and - wires (bundle them) and remove the toroid altogether for less clutter?
If you don't need any servos you can remove + and - wires on the ESCs connected to M2 - M4.
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Old Jan 14, 2013, 07:47 AM
Stop me before I build again!
United States, NY, Albany
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rshep View Post
Electrical question ... I have four F-30A switching ESCs on a quad, ESC#1's lead (~,+,-) to motor #1 on KK2.0; and use #2-4 signal wires only to motors #2-4.

Can I peel back #2-4's + and - wires (bundle them) and remove the toroid altogether for less clutter?
Yes, but the toroid is to limit RF interference from the ESC. I might take 2-4 and place all three signals through one toroid to maintain the benefit.
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Old Jan 14, 2013, 08:14 AM
crashology student
Ontario, Canada
Joined May 2008
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Thank you both for responding.

brontide, can the toroid be closer to the ESC or must it be near the connector end to be effective? I assume I will loop the whites through the ring?
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Old Jan 14, 2013, 08:18 AM
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Originally Posted by rshep View Post
Thank you both for responding.

brontide, can the toroid be closer to the ESC or must it be near the connector end to be effective? I assume I will loop the whites through the ring?
Dunno, I think either would be fine. Yes, loop the whites ( signal ) through the choke.
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Old Jan 14, 2013, 11:28 AM
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Can KK2 Flight Controller handle lost motors, props, etc.?

Greetings.
I'm searching this forum and google but I'm not finding any details on this. Does anyone know if the KK2 is able to detect and recover from a motor failure, lost propeller, etc.?
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Old Jan 14, 2013, 01:10 PM
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Originally Posted by rexless View Post
Greetings.
I'm searching this forum and google but I'm not finding any details on this. Does anyone know if the KK2 is able to detect and recover from a motor failure, lost propeller, etc.?
It has no explicit error handling like that, but just as any other external force it will do it's best to correct. In the micro octo thread he talks about running his KK2 into a tree and flying it home only then to realize that he had lost a prop. So the KK2 does correct, but you have to be reasonable, hex you might be able to make a semi-controlled decent assuming you have lots of spare power and in a quad it or tri it does not matter, you will fall out of the sky.
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Old Jan 14, 2013, 01:23 PM
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If the KK2 was able to handle that I was guessing it would be most likely on an octo or hex. So if I understand, basically there's no special "code" in the system for this - it's just a case where it throws more power to whatever side it detects is falling and in a powerful Octo or hex there may be enough lift available to compensate. Similarly if weight were to somehow shift down one arm the that arm and any near it may try to increase lift to compensate.
Thanks for the post!
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Old Jan 14, 2013, 01:26 PM
Specializing in RC since 1972
Temple, GA, USA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rshep View Post
Electrical question ... I have four F-30A switching ESCs on a quad, ESC#1's lead (~,+,-) to motor #1 on KK2.0; and use #2-4 signal wires only to motors #2-4.

Can I peel back #2-4's + and - wires (bundle them) and remove the toroid altogether for less clutter?
On motors 2-4 you can remove the + wire, but not the - wire. If you have any servos you must leave at least one + wire on these ESC's to power the servos.

On motors 2-4 you can remove the torroid. If you have any servos, you should leave all three wires from at least one ESC and whatever torroid came with it on the that same ESC.
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Old Jan 14, 2013, 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by rexless View Post
If the KK2 was able to handle that I was guessing it would be most likely on an octo or hex. So if I understand, basically there's no special "code" in the system for this - it's just a case where it throws more power to whatever side it detects is falling and in a powerful Octo or hex there may be enough lift available to compensate. Similarly if weight were to somehow shift down one arm the that arm and any near it may try to increase lift to compensate.
Thanks for the post!
Octo, correct. You don't just lose 1 prop, you loose much more power since the remainder not only have to produce the same total thrust, but also prevent the unbalanced CW/CCW from yawing uncontrollably. I have seen mixed results about hex redundancy with some barely able to do a controlled decent, the same is technically true of octo's as well, but with each additional pair of props there is that much less impact on controlled thrust.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...09&postcount=5
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Old Jan 14, 2013, 01:55 PM
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Originally Posted by brontide View Post
Yes, but the toroid is to limit RF interference from the ESC. I might take 2-4 and place all three signals through one toroid to maintain the benefit.
The F30A uses a linear BEC, so I do not think you need to keep the toroid. I have not been using them for a long time with out any side effects. Timecop had also confirmed this. See this post. http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1709362
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Old Jan 14, 2013, 02:05 PM
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Originally Posted by rshep View Post
Thank you both for responding.

brontide, can the toroid be closer to the ESC or must it be near the connector end to be effective? I assume I will loop the whites through the ring?
Check this thread for a DIY Sanders (low cut) filter. See post #14.

I built mine using ferrite cores instead of rings because Radio Shack did not have the rings and ended up using magnet wire so that I could get more turns around the core. Both my filters are closest to the batteries.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1339007

BTW, I am not an expert on electrical noise but I would keep the rings on the F30A ESC if you plan on flying FPV, just in case.
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Old Jan 14, 2013, 03:02 PM
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Originally Posted by David Parry View Post
Think I've trashed my kk2 board. Had a prop fly off while testing in my garden, tri crashed on the netting for my fish pond, but still wet everything. dried it out with a hair dryer, but now the lcd wont work. lifted the display and it seems that the plastic at the very bottom of the display has broken. I think this just has the 2 earths? on. Can I solder leads to the board, not sure I can see where I can connect to on the display, or are there replacement displays I can get?
That thin plastic bit off the edge is just a surface mounted LED to supply backlight for the display.

You should be still able to read display without it, if not I would loosen the clip for the LCD flexi track, remove it, dry the connector and then reinsert and secure clip.

I posted closeups of the clip closed and open and how to do it a few pages back.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=8773

Deyrick
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Old Jan 14, 2013, 03:02 PM
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Originally Posted by brontide View Post
Octo, correct. You don't just lose 1 prop, you loose much more power since the remainder not only have to produce the same total thrust, but also prevent the unbalanced CW/CCW from yawing uncontrollably. I have seen mixed results about hex redundancy with some barely able to do a controlled decent, the same is technically true of octo's as well, but with each additional pair of props there is that much less impact on controlled thrust.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...09&postcount=5
Subscribed - and thanks!
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Old Jan 14, 2013, 04:45 PM
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It can be done either way and there is no "correct" way, they both accomplish the same thing.
Using ACC Trim is the technically correct method and is easier to adjust, especially if both axis need trimming. That is the reason for it being there. Shimming is akin to using duct tape in lieu of a proper repair (IMO).
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Old Jan 14, 2013, 05:01 PM
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Does anyone know the minimum voltage the is required to run the KK2 board? I would like to run the board off of a 3.3v UBEC that I have on hand. Any clue if this is sufficent?

I ask because I do not like how warm the ESC that powers the FC is becoming.

Thanks,
Tim
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