HobbyKing.com New Products Flash Sale
Reply
Thread Tools
Old Dec 29, 2012, 10:24 PM
iMultirotors
Senator315's Avatar
Australia, NSW, Shellharbour
Joined Aug 2012
867 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by RC911 View Post
Very nice! Is it possible to build larger frames without too much flexing?
How did you attach the motors to the open pipe ends?
Not sure how he did it, but to me it looks like he's using FC2812 motors or similar which have a round mount with 4 holes. So what I would do it drill 4 small holes in the PVC pipe to correspond to the holes on the mount and and use 2.5mm cable ties to hold them in place.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DeepEastKilla View Post
Hey guys, Im hoping to put together my first Hquad with the KK2 board when my HK shipment gets here. Im just wondering what FW version comes on the board from HK nowadays. I searched the thread and someone said it came with v1.2 flashed from HK, but that was back on the 14th so has that changed at all or will I have to reflash to get 1.5? Luckily at the last minute I added the usbasp to my cart before ordering, not even being 100% if I needed it, but it looks like I did the right thing. So are KK2's still shipped with 1.2 or have they updated? Thanks!
Just got a few more the other day and all are still 1.2. Only takes a minute to flash new FW, so not a big deal.
Senator315 is offline Find More Posts by Senator315
Reply With Quote
Sign up now
to remove ads between posts
Old Dec 29, 2012, 10:29 PM
Registered User
United States, TX, Richmond
Joined Aug 2010
1,282 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by RC911 View Post
Very nice! Is it possible to build larger frames without too much flexing?
How did you attach the motors to the open pipe ends?
You can use class 200 three quarter inch pvc pipe instead of the regular schedule 40. It's just as strong but a whole lot lighter. The connectors though are still schedule 40.

I drill holes into the tops of the tee connectors and then run zipties through the holes into the motor mounts. If you have bell type motors where the screws go directly into the bottom of the motor housing, you can screw the motors into strong plywood and then attach the plywood to the pvc using zipties or epoxy.

This is a large one I built.

Intro:
PVC V-Tail Introduction (6 min 32 sec)


Maiden flight and crash: It crashed due to a bad motor.
PVC V-Tail Maiden and Crash (1 min 17 sec)
rcjose is offline Find More Posts by rcjose
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 29, 2012, 10:32 PM
Registered User
United States, TX, Richmond
Joined Aug 2010
1,282 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Senator315 View Post
Not sure how he did it, but to me it looks like he's using FC2812 motors or similar which have a round mount with 4 holes. So what I would do it drill 4 small holes in the PVC pipe to correspond to the holes on the mount and and use 2.5mm cable ties to hold them in place.
.
They're FC2822 and yes, I drill corresponding holes into the pvc pipe and use zipties. Good observation!
rcjose is offline Find More Posts by rcjose
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 30, 2012, 02:08 AM
* fly fast - live slow *
Seebodener's Avatar
Seeboden in Austria
Joined Dec 2008
83 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by brontide View Post
All channels are at 0 until armed and throttle leaves idle, only then will the gimbals reflect what the board thinks is level.
thanks,
sounds very logical to me ... will check, but I think you are absolutely right

as I said before: this is all new to me ... but every day I learn a little
Seebodener is offline Find More Posts by Seebodener
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 30, 2012, 12:09 PM
Registered User
ripmax's Avatar
uk. northampton
Joined May 2009
1,002 Posts
Sorry to jump in, just a quick question, I am going to use these escs to build a tricopter

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=2163

Reguarding disconnecting esc power wires, I have read the kk2 manual and searched this thread for answers and it seems that I do not need to cut any power wires from the escs, is this correct? (unless they are switching) these escs say they are linear, although some here still say cut the power wire?

I would rather not cut any wires, just wanted to check before I power up.
ripmax is offline Find More Posts by ripmax
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 30, 2012, 12:13 PM
Too Many Thread Subscriptions
TheFernMan's Avatar
United States, FL, Miami
Joined Jul 2012
2,186 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by ripmax View Post
Sorry to jump in, just a quick question, I am going to use these escs to build a tricopter

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=2163

Reguarding disconnecting esc power wires, I have read the kk2 manual and searched this thread for answers and it seems that I do not need to cut any power wires from the escs, is this correct? (unless they are switching) these escs say they are linear, although some here still say cut the power wire?

I would rather not cut any wires, just wanted to check before I power up.
Yes, you don't have to disconnect the bec wires from the ESCs. The M1 connector is isolated.

I would really recommend flash ESCs.
Someone is selling some in the classified section. The F-30A blue heat shrink ESCs. Or even the HobbyKing BlueSeries 30a.


You wouldn't need to cut the red wire. You can just lift the little tab from the connector an pull it out.
TheFernMan is offline Find More Posts by TheFernMan
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 30, 2012, 12:15 PM
Specializing in RC since 1972
Temple, GA, USA
Joined Jun 2009
3,135 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by srepfler View Post
KK2 + 1.5 fw + Self level + SimonK + gopro excellent combo

http://youtu.be/BUF3D5MxBjg

Its time to build some gimball but good result with simple strap on frame.
What do your four friends think of it? Do they want to build one now?
theothercliff is offline Find More Posts by theothercliff
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 30, 2012, 12:18 PM
Specializing in RC since 1972
Temple, GA, USA
Joined Jun 2009
3,135 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by ripmax View Post
Sorry to jump in, just a quick question, I am going to use these escs to build a tricopter

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=2163

Reguarding disconnecting esc power wires, I have read the kk2 manual and searched this thread for answers and it seems that I do not need to cut any power wires from the escs, is this correct? (unless they are switching) these escs say they are linear, although some here still say cut the power wire?

I would rather not cut any wires, just wanted to check before I power up.
As already said, you don't cut the red wire, you lift the tiny flap up on the servo connector a very short way and then the pin and wire slide right out. Fold it back and wrap it with tape.
theothercliff is offline Find More Posts by theothercliff
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 30, 2012, 12:27 PM
Registered User
ripmax's Avatar
uk. northampton
Joined May 2009
1,002 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheFernMan View Post
Yes, you don't have to disconnect the bec wires from the ESCs. The M1 connector is isolated.

I would really recommend flash ESCs.
Someone is selling some in the classified section. The F-30A blue heat shrink ESCs. Or even the HobbyKing BlueSeries 30a.


You wouldn't need to cut the red wire. You can just lift the little tab from the connector an pull it out.
Thanks, won't remove wires then.
ripmax is offline Find More Posts by ripmax
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 30, 2012, 12:38 PM
Registered User
United States, TX, Richmond
Joined Aug 2010
1,282 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by ripmax View Post
Thanks, won't remove wires then.
The plush series esc are non switching so you do not have to remove any bec wires. If you used switching esc then you would need to remove the red bec wire from all esc but the first one.
rcjose is offline Find More Posts by rcjose
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 30, 2012, 12:49 PM
Stop me before I build again!
United States, NY, Albany
Joined Sep 2012
1,320 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Seebodener View Post
thanks,
sounds very logical to me ... will check, but I think you are absolutely right

as I said before: this is all new to me ... but every day I learn a little
Yeah, there should be a better way of testing gimbals, but for now the "all at 0" is a safety measure since it's hard to find a safe way to output on channels that *might* have a finger slicing prop attached to it. Maybe in a future version they could add a "unsafe servo" ( servo's running all the time ) or "servo testing" mode with big flashing warnings about not having ESC's hooked up to those channels.
brontide is offline Find More Posts by brontide
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 30, 2012, 01:12 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2011
249 Posts
KK2 working very well in the Norwegian mountains @ -4 degrees Celsius. Just leave it outside in the cold for a couple of minutes before you take off.

Mountain Flight With my mini octocopter (3 min 44 sec)


Mini Octo M2M 260 mm
TGY 1811 2900 KV Motors
HK 6A ESC SimonK
2200 mAh 3S Batteries
4" Two Blade Props
KK2 FlightController
GoPro Hero 2 @ 720 50P
Tiny Amount of Stabilisation in FC Pro X

200 mW 5.8 GHz FPV Video Transmitter
FPV through composite video out of the GoPro
SpiroNet CloverLeaf on the Tx
Diversity with SpiroNet and TurnHelical on Rx

Location: Skeikampen, Gausdal, Norway
eirikso is offline Find More Posts by eirikso
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 30, 2012, 01:29 PM
Registered User
Joined Aug 2012
6 Posts
test nacelle

test-nacelle (1 min 30 sec)
jpfefe is offline Find More Posts by jpfefe
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 30, 2012, 01:30 PM
Registered User
Joined Jul 2012
442 Posts
First flight today.
I had some problem, so I have to trim PI gains, but it was flyable.
Then I tried auto-leveling and problem arrived.
It looks like it reacts too late, so every time it tries to correct, the out of level amount increases, few seconds and wobbling become so strong that I have to land.
Auto leveling P gain is 100, P Limit is 20.
Test auto-leveling
Soul Reaver is offline Find More Posts by Soul Reaver
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 30, 2012, 01:56 PM
Registered User
Joined Aug 2012
6 Posts
gain P Auto nivellement est de 100, la limite P est de 20



mets 45 au lieu de 100 et 25 au lieu de 20
jpfefe is offline Find More Posts by jpfefe
Reply With Quote