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Old Dec 12, 2012, 05:32 PM
HeliHarry
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United States, OK, Tulsa
Joined Dec 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kapteinkuk View Post

Do not use metal hardware to mount your KK2
Thanks Rolf!
I think some of the problems are related to this.
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Old Dec 12, 2012, 05:36 PM
HeliHarry
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United States, OK, Tulsa
Joined Dec 2006
334 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by helizrnew2me View Post
mine was mounted with nylon screws/standoffs and i still got the nobody home after trying to flash to 1.4,i do see your point though .good thing mines mounted with nylon.
As close as those traces are on the PCB and as thin as they are I don't
even trust nylon against them. Over time the nylon can cut the trace also.

One of my first concerns when I got my first KK2 was those traces and
I chose to use silicone fuel tube. The fuel tube also cancels some vibration.
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Old Dec 12, 2012, 06:51 PM
Specializing in RC since 1972
Temple, GA, USA
Joined Jun 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Senator315 View Post
For all the people that have a backlight but no display.
...
Question: With the jumper off, what happens if you press the right most button when you have a blank, but lit up screen? That was a previous bug.

r.e. your jumper fix: I suggested to someone that had this problem that they try this a week or so ago. Never got an answer. I don't think they tried it. It seems obvious. You power from USB and it works. You power from M1 and it doesn't. Connect the two powers so that powering from M1 powers from the USB.
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Old Dec 12, 2012, 06:55 PM
Specializing in RC since 1972
Temple, GA, USA
Joined Jun 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by helizrnew2me View Post
why would anyone want to use these on a airplane?i dont get it ?
all you need for a plane is a receiver hooked to the proper servos .why mess with anything else?whats the benefit?
you still need a receiver to run this board and your just adding weight to your plane .

someone explain the benefit here...self level you plane maybe?is that it?
Auto-level or gyros are useful.

Auto-level connected to your channel 5 switch would be a good panic switch to level the airplane out.

Gyros (really aileron only) are useful for taking videos on windy days.
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Old Dec 12, 2012, 07:04 PM
Specializing in RC since 1972
Temple, GA, USA
Joined Jun 2009
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Originally Posted by carr52 View Post
I just don't understand the need for the flash thing. I did everything on the LCD and no problems. Maybe I just got a 1 in 1,000,000 board that flys perfect right out of the box.
Auto level works much better in v1.5 than in v1.3 or earlier.

V1.5 has camera gimbal stabilization that was not previously available.
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Old Dec 12, 2012, 07:09 PM
Specializing in RC since 1972
Temple, GA, USA
Joined Jun 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Retlaw View Post
...
the second and the third flight the quad is going up and down without changing the throttle stick.
This is usually either Height Dampening needing adjustment (does it do it with it turned off?), or PI Editor gains set to high (small oscillations cause a jacking up in altitude because ESC's spin up faster than they spin down).

Flashed ESC's can help fix the latter, but you will need to retune.
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Old Dec 12, 2012, 07:47 PM
Specializing in RC since 1972
Temple, GA, USA
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Originally Posted by Cyrus85 View Post
Hey Guys,

i received my second KK2 Board from Hobbyking. Before wiring everything up, i wanted to flash V1.4 to the Board. This worked fine. But after putting everything on my SK450 together, only M1 starts spinning! I tried the other ESCs/Motors at connector M1 and they work fine. I tried setting back to factory setting and reflash with every possible FW Version, but it changes nothing.
In the End i tried flashing OpenAero, but after that the LCD lights up but stays blank. So I think the Board must be defective.

I also flashed my first KK2 Board with V1.5 to check if there is any problem with my USBASP-Programmer. But my first KK2 still works fine.

Does someone know about this failure or if it is fixable?

Thanks in advance and best regards
Sebastian
(KapteinKuk you are a real scholar and human being!)

I wonder if the ESC's on M2-M4 are just not arming.

I wonder if playing with the low throttle endpoint (default at 10, high default at 90) would help them arm.

I wonder if just one ESC connected to M2 (nothing on M3 or M4) would work. This may indicate that your BEC's are fighting and some need to be disabled.

I wonder if powering the M2-M8 bus would help if it is not currently powered.

Certainly you have a quadcopter type selected as opposed to a normal 1 rotor heli?
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Old Dec 13, 2012, 03:31 AM
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Germany, NDS, Celle
Joined Aug 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HappySundays View Post
Did you read my reply just before Brontide's post?
Sorry, yes i read it.
I wired everything up as on my other KK2 Board. So M2 - M4 are not BEC-less. But to check if this is the problem, i took the positve from M2 out of the connector (M3 and M4 not connected). But this didn't change anything.

Again, i'am sure, that Motor Layout is correct (Quad X) and the other settings are correct, too. I tried also other Profiles like Hexcopter and stuff, but always M1 will spin.
I will try playing around with the low throttle endpoint.

@brontide
there are no crusty things on the back of the board and no i haven't used any cleaner...

The other question is, why isn't OpenAero FW working? I flashed it, but after flashing the screen just keep staying blank. Is it possible that this is an indicator for a faulty chip or something?

I started a request at Hobbyking because of my defective KK2, but now they want pictures of it, showing the issue.... how to take a picture of this failure
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Old Dec 13, 2012, 03:53 AM
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Joined May 2007
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Something i noticed when running the TX test on the board, it shows my left sticks (ch1 and 2, ail/ele) as reversed even tho they are not on the transmitter
its a FS-CT6A.
so i reversed them now to make the board show them correctly. just wondering why its like that tho..
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Old Dec 13, 2012, 04:59 AM
Enjoying the sunshine
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Australia, NSW, Sydney
Joined Feb 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cyrus85 View Post
The other question is, why isn't OpenAero FW working? I flashed it, but after flashing the screen just keep staying blank. Is it possible that this is an indicator for a faulty chip or something?
Hmm, well it's not a good sign, that's for sure.
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Old Dec 13, 2012, 05:15 AM
Custom Multirotors
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Australia, NSW, Shellharbour
Joined Aug 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by harrym View Post
I noticed on your mount for the KK2 that you have metal screws that are
touching the PCB. Don't know what the other side looks like, but you might
want to take a very close look at the top and bottom of the PCB around the
mount holes. There are very fine circuit traces that are very close to the holes
and It is possible that one of your mounts has come in contact with or broken
one of these traces.

I would recommend to everyone to mount the KK2 using rubber washers
or fuel tubing against the KK2 mount holes both top and bottom.
The screws while metal have counter sunk heads, so they don't touch anything they shouldn't be. I double checked to make sure and I'm also using fuel tube under them for insulation under the board and vibration dampening.

Quote:
Originally Posted by HappySundays View Post
OK before too many people get excited about this - you have to understand WHY this happens and WHAT you will have to be careful of after doing this mod.

First - why does it work? Well the KK2 board gets its 5V power from one of two areas - either M1, or any of the RX inputs.
The backlight gets the 5V directly but the circuitry gets filtered by R1 and C3.
For the backlight to work but not the KK2, somehow the connection through this filter has broken.
By wiring from M8 to the programming header, you are supplying 5V from the ESCs directly to the KK2, bypassing the filter.

Now, WHAT will the problems be? KK2 boards have a famous problem in that when used with servos, the servo noise on the 5V rail can reboot the KK2 at a really unfortunate time So to try and get around that, Mr.KK made the M2 to M8 supply completely separate from the rest of the board. Not even connected.

By doing the above mod, not only is it again connected, but it bypasses the filter.
While *maybe* ok for multicopters with no servos, I'd be very cautious about using it on tricopters with one servo and outright recommend against it on setups with multiple servos.

The good news is that the original poster may have found out what is actually going wrong. I don't have a board in front of me but if R1 (2.2 Ohms) has been dislodged, or has a cracked pad, or any of the tracks to or from R1 are damaged, that will cause the "backlight on - nobody home" phenomenon.
Thanks for the info, I really had no clue, it was just a guess that happened to work.

Quote:
Originally Posted by kapteinkuk View Post
Guys, I see I have goofed up a bit on the PCB layout.... I was expecting user to use nylon screws and stand-offs, but I do not think I have mentioned that any places.

Do not use metal hardware to mount your KK2
.

Around three of the holes there is a track for the 5V supply coming from M1 through the filter R1/C3. Also the lower left hole has a track for the LCD back-light next to it. Metal hardware may short these tracks to the surrounding ground plane and burn R1 or turn off the back-light. Then you will get the symptoms mentioned in the quoted post.

Check R1 (2.2 Ohm) and replace with a new one, or just replace it with a wire or a solder blob.
I checked and all the traces are fine and that R1 looked fine and was soldered in place but it was faulty. Didn't have one to replace it with so I removed it and just bridged the two points and it works. Did 4 packs with it today and it flew perfect, no side effects what so ever, but how long will it last is yet to be seen.

Thanks for that fix kaptein

Quote:
Originally Posted by theothercliff View Post
Question: With the jumper off, what happens if you press the right most button when you have a blank, but lit up screen? That was a previous bug.

r.e. your jumper fix: I suggested to someone that had this problem that they try this a week or so ago. Never got an answer. I don't think they tried it. It seems obvious. You power from USB and it works. You power from M1 and it doesn't. Connect the two powers so that powering from M1 powers from the USB.
With the jumper off nothing happens at all, no matter what you try.
The Kapteins fix works and is a permanent fix which is good.
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Old Dec 13, 2012, 07:27 AM
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United States, FL, Kissimmee
Joined Jan 2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HappySundays View Post
KK2 boards have a famous problem in that when used with servos, the servo noise on the 5V rail can reboot the KK2 at a really unfortunate time So to try and get around that, Mr.KK made the M2 to M8 supply completely separate from the rest of the board. Not even connected.
If I use two BEC's connected to the same battery, one to power M1 and one to power M2-8 will the servo noise pass thru?
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Old Dec 13, 2012, 07:56 AM
Flying Monkey
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Lexington, KY
Joined Aug 2010
307 Posts
Dear Santa Kuk,

All I want for Christmas is a KK2 firmware update that displays voltage on the LCD when it is ARMED. I really love to fly aggressive acrobatics, but the disarm feature can be a real multi-rotor killer. I almost always fly with the SL, and SAFE feature disabled for this reason, but I cannot see my voltage in that configuration. I know I have been bad all year, but if can forgive me I promise I will try harder in 2013.

P.S. Thank you for all the pretty coal you left in my stocking last year!
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Old Dec 13, 2012, 10:53 AM
Specializing in RC since 1972
Temple, GA, USA
Joined Jun 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cyrus85 View Post
I started a request at Hobbyking because of my defective KK2, but now they want pictures of it, showing the issue.... how to take a picture of this failure
There are two reasons they ask for a picture:
- Their supplier asks them for it
- To cause you a hassle and delay, maybe you won't bother, maybe the refund time will expire.

Keep track of the number of days since purchase and open a case with your payment processor if they delay and it gets close to the last day. "They keep delaying and the way they require I send it back is more expensive than the cost of the original item."

Is this with the original firmware? Have you tried different versions of firmware? If I had the tools to flash firmware on it, I would put it on them as to whether they want me to flash it. Very small chance that flashing will make it work. Larger chance that they will say "We cannot accept for return if it has been flashed".

Anybody know if they deny returns if they know they have been flashed?

Having been asked for pictures for absolutely silly reasons before (eBay sellers usually), I would make pictures of the aircraft with one prop slowly spinning and the other props stopped. If you do it in lower light or at faster RPM without a flash, one prop will be blurred. Or change lighting if you want to make the prop visible but blurred.

Next, I would reply with "Here is your picture. If you need another picture, please describe exactly what you want."

If you really feel industrious, make a picture of each setup page on the LCD to prove how it is set up. Don't do this if you have flashed firmware onto it though. This should be sufficient, and they won't take the time to look at them.

Please report your results so we know what to expect from them.
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Old Dec 13, 2012, 11:03 AM
Specializing in RC since 1972
Temple, GA, USA
Joined Jun 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bongmaster View Post
Something i noticed when running the TX test on the board, it shows my left sticks (ch1 and 2, ail/ele) as reversed even tho they are not on the transmitter
its a FS-CT6A.
so i reversed them now to make the board show them correctly. just wondering why its like that tho..
There is no standard as to what the direction is, left aileron may be a shorter pulse for some manufacturers and a longer pulse for others. The most confusing common problem is when connecting ESC's to an airplane and the throttle is backwards and the ESC won't arm because of it's safety features.

Just enable reversing in the correct place and it will be OK.
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