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Old Dec 12, 2012, 12:51 PM
Stop me before I build again!
United States, NY, Albany
Joined Sep 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Little-Acorn View Post
I've looked over the last half dozen pages of this thread looking for info on using the KK with a fixed-wing aircraft (Super Sky Surfer), but found only multicopter info so far.

Is there a thread for people using this board on fixed wing aircraft? I'm looking for info like, do you have to re-flash it with different firmware for fixed-wing, what hardware do you need to re-flash, where to get the new firmware etc.

Thanks all!
Search for OpenAero2, it is more geared for fixed wing. Assuming you have the USBasp just install the kkflashing tool from Lazy Zero and it should be in the drop down selection. You can do fixed wing with the default firmware, but it takes a little more work since you will need to program the mixes by hand.
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Old Dec 12, 2012, 12:52 PM
HeliHarry
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United States, OK, Tulsa
Joined Dec 2006
334 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by davibe View Post
..... There are many advantages of using wood i can think of i am not going to list them now.
I built my DIY Quadnid using 1/2"x1/2"x12" poplar wood arms from Lowes.
Very cheap and easy to fix. I split one at the center plate due to a crash.
A little CA glue and the arm was as good as new.

I attached each of them to the center plate with 2 bolts. That way I have room to
mount my receiver between the top and bottom plate.

I insulated the arms from the center plate and the motors from the arms
with sticky back 2mm foam and I've been real happy so far.
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Old Dec 12, 2012, 01:06 PM
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San Diego, CA
Joined Dec 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by helizrnew2me View Post
why would anyone want to use these on a airplane?i dont get it ?
all you need for a plane is a receiver hooked to the proper servos .why mess with anything else?whats the benefit?
you still need a receiver to run this board and your just adding weight to your plane .

someone explain the benefit here...self level you plane maybe?is that it?
Self levelling the plane, and more importantly, stabilization of an on-board camera, both for later viewing of recorded videos and for live viewing of FPV images telemetered to the ground.
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Old Dec 12, 2012, 01:20 PM
HeliHarry
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United States, OK, Tulsa
Joined Dec 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Senator315 View Post
For all the people that have a backlight but no display.
I noticed on your mount for the KK2 that you have metal screws that are
touching the PCB. Don't know what the other side looks like, but you might
want to take a very close look at the top and bottom of the PCB around the
mount holes. There are very fine circuit traces that are very close to the holes
and It is possible that one of your mounts has come in contact with or broken
one of these traces.

I would recommend to everyone to mount the KK2 using rubber washers
or fuel tubing against the KK2 mount holes both top and bottom.
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Last edited by harrym; Dec 12, 2012 at 01:50 PM.
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Old Dec 12, 2012, 02:54 PM
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United States, SC, Irmo
Joined Mar 2012
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I bought the KK2 board, setup my quad using the parameters in the quad build tutorial. Its on its own thread. I'm sure everyone has seen it. Didn't flash or whatever thing its called and my quad is a gentle giant. Flys great and lands great hovers great. I just don't understand the need for the flash thing. I did everything on the LCD and no problems. Maybe I just got a 1 in 1,000,000 board that flys perfect right out of the box.

Tom
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...8#post23474976
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Old Dec 12, 2012, 03:30 PM
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Australia, NSW, Sydney
Joined Feb 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Little-Acorn View Post
Self levelling the plane, and more importantly, stabilization of an on-board camera, both for later viewing of recorded videos and for live viewing of FPV images telemetered to the ground.
This is what you want --> OpenAero2 for KK2 Boards
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Old Dec 12, 2012, 03:31 PM
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Australia, NSW, Sydney
Joined Feb 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cyrus85 View Post
@Brontide

sorry, don't have a picture of my wiring. But i'am quite sure, wiring is not the problem. I took my first ordered KK2 form my other Quad and everything works fine and when i put my second "defective" KK2 in my "working" Quad only M1 will spin. So i think wiring is not the problem.
Did you read my reply just before Brontide's post?
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Old Dec 12, 2012, 03:44 PM
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Australia, NSW, Sydney
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Senator315 View Post
For all the people that have a backlight but no display.
OK before too many people get excited about this - you have to understand WHY this happens and WHAT you will have to be careful of after doing this mod.

First - why does it work? Well the KK2 board gets its 5V power from one of two areas - either M1, or any of the RX inputs.
The backlight gets the 5V directly but the circuitry gets filtered by R1 and C3.
For the backlight to work but not the KK2, somehow the connection through this filter has broken.
By wiring from M8 to the programming header, you are supplying 5V from the ESCs directly to the KK2, bypassing the filter.

Now, WHAT will the problems be? KK2 boards have a famous problem in that when used with servos, the servo noise on the 5V rail can reboot the KK2 at a really unfortunate time So to try and get around that, Mr.KK made the M2 to M8 supply completely separate from the rest of the board. Not even connected.

By doing the above mod, not only is it again connected, but it bypasses the filter.
While *maybe* ok for multicopters with no servos, I'd be very cautious about using it on tricopters with one servo and outright recommend against it on setups with multiple servos.

The good news is that the original poster may have found out what is actually going wrong. I don't have a board in front of me but if R1 (2.2 Ohms) has been dislodged, or has a cracked pad, or any of the tracks to or from R1 are damaged, that will cause the "backlight on - nobody home" phenomenon.
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Old Dec 12, 2012, 04:25 PM
Quad Whisperer
Joined Jul 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Senator315 View Post
For all the people that have a backlight but no display.

Got a new KK2 today, flashed it with 1.5 and put in a new 330 quad.
First flight went well, battery got low so I unplugged it and put a new one in, BAM no text on the screen, just the backlight. I'm like W.T.F, I didn't crash it or anything like that, even the landing was very soft.
So now like everyone else that's had this issue, I flashed it again. With the usbasp plugged in the LCD works fine with text, backlight just like normal. remove the asp and plug in a battery and no text. What I did notice is that the beep had also changed which made me think that M1 isn't supplying power to the board as it should but the usb header is.
So I thought I'll bridge the positive from the header to positive on M8, and what do you know, the board works, normal beep tones and text is back. Unplug the bridge wire and the text disappears and the backlight stays on.

Anyone have a clue as to why this would happen or even know of a way to repair it?

The bridge wire works and it flies normal, but like everyone else with this issue, I'd like to know why it done this and if there's a permanent way to fix it.

For anyone that wants to try this and get their board working, here's what I did.

1. Get a male to male servo lead (like the one you have plugged in from your receiver to the board)
2. Remove one of the 3 wires (you only need the one)
3. Put some heat shrink around the exposed ends
4. Plug it into the center pin on M8 and the other end to positive pin on the usb header which is the one furthest in the bottom corner right next to the screw hole.

The only time it will be in the way is when you want to flash the board.

Hopefully this works for everyone with this same issue, and it sure beats sending it back to HK or having a dead board.

Quote:
Originally Posted by harrym View Post
I noticed on your mount for the KK2 that you have metal screws that are
touching the PCB. Don't know what the other side looks like, but you might
want to take a very close look at the top and bottom of the PCB around the
mount holes. There are very fine circuit traces that are very close to the holes
and It is possible that one of your mounts has come in contact with or broken
one of these traces.

I would recommend to everyone to mount the KK2 using rubber washers
or fuel tubing against the KK2 mount holes both top and bottom.

Guys, I see I have goofed up a bit on the PCB layout.... I was expecting user to use nylon screws and stand-offs, but I do not think I have mentioned that any places.

Do not use metal hardware to mount your KK2
.

Around three of the holes there is a track for the 5V supply coming from M1 through the filter R1/C3. Also the lower left hole has a track for the LCD back-light next to it. Metal hardware may short these tracks to the surrounding ground plane and burn R1 or turn off the back-light. Then you will get the symptoms mentioned in the quoted post.

Check R1 (2.2 Ohm) and replace with a new one, or just replace it with a wire or a solder blob.
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Last edited by kapteinkuk; Dec 12, 2012 at 04:37 PM.
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Old Dec 12, 2012, 04:38 PM
Registered User
Canada, BC, Williams Lake
Joined Jan 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kapteinkuk View Post
...posted clarifying info....
Has anyone told you lately that you rock?
Thanks for an outstanding product and thanks for providing this helpful update!
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Old Dec 12, 2012, 04:49 PM
Quad Whisperer
Joined Jul 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fuzzydog View Post
Has anyone told you lately that you rock?
Thanks for an outstanding product and thanks for providing this helpful update!
Not lately

But I would have rocked more if I had done the PCB layout correct in the first place (kept the tracks away from the holes) and added a on board 5V regulator to avoid the M1, M2-8 confusing split power supply problem.
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Old Dec 12, 2012, 04:52 PM
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Canada, BC, Williams Lake
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kapteinkuk View Post
Not lately

But I would have rocked more if I had done the PCB layout correct in the first place (kept the tracks away from the holes) and added a on board 5V regulator to avoid the M1, M2-8 confusing split power supply problem.
Well, yeah, but I wasn't going to mention all of that stuff......
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Old Dec 12, 2012, 05:01 PM
Enjoying the sunshine
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Australia, NSW, Sydney
Joined Feb 2011
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Nailed it!
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Old Dec 12, 2012, 05:05 PM
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Canada, ON, Merrickville-Wolford
Joined Jun 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kapteinkuk View Post
Not lately

But I would have rocked more if I had done the PCB layout correct in the first place (kept the tracks away from the holes) and added a on board 5V regulator to avoid the M1, M2-8 confusing split power supply problem.
It's the old "experience is what you get right after you needed it" thing again!

I'll add another THANKS for all your efforts too.

cheers,
Andrew
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Old Dec 12, 2012, 05:29 PM
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United States, PA, Slatington
Joined Sep 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kapteinkuk View Post
Guys, I see I have goofed up a bit on the PCB layout.... I was expecting user to use nylon screws and stand-offs, but I do not think I have mentioned that any places.

Do not use metal hardware to mount your KK2
.

Around three of the holes there is a track for the 5V supply coming from M1 through the filter R1/C3. Also the lower left hole has a track for the LCD back-light next to it. Metal hardware may short these tracks to the surrounding ground plane and burn R1 or turn off the back-light. Then you will get the symptoms mentioned in the quoted post.

Check R1 (2.2 Ohm) and replace with a new one, or just replace it with a wire or a solder blob.
mine was mounted with nylon screws/standoffs and i still got the nobody home after trying to flash to 1.4,i do see your point though .good thing mines mounted with nylon.
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