I have a humble suggestion for hobbyking:
after burning one KK2 while soldering the low voltage alarm wire I would suggest that adding a pin for it instead of the soldering required would make a lot of sense since they are marketing this FC for newbs like me who do not necessarily have good soldering skills.

Originally Posted by MoRaLeSD

My ESCs have all BECS, would be a problem if 2 of them give power? Sorry for asking something already written.

From the manual:
"The M1 connector must always have a ESC connected, because this ESC will be the only one that supplies the FC with 5V power. This ensures stable power to the FC.
The M2 to M8's 5V power pin is connected together, and any servos here will be supplied by any ESC's connected here. There is not necessary to cut the 5V (red) lead on any ESC unless it has a Switching BEC."

Anyone flying their KK2 FPV yet? I'm hesitant to put mine under that much demand as of yet.

Originally Posted by flarssen

From the manual:
"The M1 connector must always have a ESC connected, because this ESC will be the only one that supplies the FC with 5V power. This ensures stable power to the FC.
The M2 to M8's 5V power pin is connected together, and any servos here will be supplied by any ESC's connected here. There is not necessary to cut the 5V (red) lead on any ESC unless it has a Switching BEC."

If you don't give power to 2 or 3 the servo on the tail will NOT work. So powering the KK from M1 is correct but will not work the Servo, So I had to power the M2 too to make it work.

Originally Posted by viper522

Anyone flying their KK2 FPV yet? I'm hesitant to put mine under that much demand as of yet.

I tested it, with self level ON it is good for FPV.
But at the end decided that I actually like normal line of site flying the most.

Originally Posted by viper522

Anyone flying their KK2 FPV yet? I'm hesitant to put mine under that much demand as of yet.

Yeah, I have. The self-level feature is great on the KK2 with version 1.4 firmware. It holds your hand if you are relatively new to FPV. My tricopter is as steady as a rock with the KK2 which is handy if you are still learning.

I think I need to remove my KK board and remount it, the self-level is acting bizarre - which I have described here before. Manual mode still flies great, though.

Originally Posted by srepfler

I tested it, with self level ON it is good for FPV.
But at the end decided that I actually like normal line of site flying the most.

Are you using a white wiring block for power distribution? If so, where did you get it? Great idea!!!!

Hi Guys...and I assume/hope some Gals as well,

I read that many people have various issues with their KK2.0 FC, I believe most of the issues are due to poor setup, excess vibration and/or poor P & I tuning. I now have 13 of these KK2.0 boards, yes you read correctly, 13, all flashed with either V1.4 or V1.5, of all of them I have just one dead board where the LCD lights up but no menu etc.....and I believe it was me who probably caused it.
I now have 9 quads, 1 hex and 1 tri flying with the KK2.0 and all of them are fine, fellow forum member ROADTRAIN can vouch for this, he's seen them. I also build them for friends and others who have seen them fly and want one. They all need their own individual self level adjustments and P & I tuning to fly well, but I do have a couple which fly well on the default KK2.0 1.4&1.5 settings with only minor adjustments required.

There's no two quads, tri's, hex's or octo's which will be the same as the next, there's just too many combinations of motors, props, tx's, rx's, esc's, batteries and wiring out there for there to be a consistent set of settings. I have three "identical" quads, all with the same components and all require their own individual tuning to fly well.
Please take the time to balance, tune and adjust your bird to suit your components and conditions. There are many very helpful guys on this forum willing to help and offer assistance and advice.
Large temperature differences do have an impact on the acc's and gyro's so please be aware of this fact. I'm rather lucky where I live and have moderate temperatures most of the time with the occasional few hot days, I don't get the sub-zero freezing weather some of you experience either.

Please also be aware that this is a cheap $30 flight control and can often be had for under $20, It's no Naza and doesn't have all the bells & whistles, nor does it have the same price tag. I also have several other FC types including Rabbits, MultiWii's, AIOP's, Mega's, FF/C10's and the older KK's, most of them are ok but none of them can compare to the KK2.0 in the "Bang for Buck" and ease of use stakes.
I get a tremendous amount of enjoyment out of this cheap form of RC flying and have just started getting into FPV, it's a whole different world when you get the goggles on..!

If you're after a cheap, easy to set-up F/C and don't want all the bells & whistles, you can't go too far wrong with a KK2.0. Kudos to Rolf Bakke, aka Kapteinkuk.

Cheers,
Smithy.

More flight KK2 with 1.5
quad X666

HobbyKing 30A BlueSeries Brushless Speed Controller on multi rotor (8 min 13 sec)

Originally Posted by viper522

I think I need to remove my KK board and remount it, the self-level is acting bizarre - which I have described here before. Manual mode still flies great, though.

Before you remount the KK2 try putting a straight edge & level across the motors and level the airframe that way. Then do your KK2 calibration. The airframe is what you want level.

Originally Posted by harrym

Before you remount the KK2 try putting a straight edge & level across the motors and level the airframe that way. Then do your KK2 calibration. The airframe it what you want level.

Copy that, thanks. It's an F450 frame, so not much can be out of level, but you're probably right that it's worth checking before making any changes.

Originally Posted by alumina

I have a humble suggestion for hobbyking:
after burning one KK2 while soldering the low voltage alarm wire I would suggest that adding a pin for it instead of the soldering required would make a lot of sense since they are marketing this FC for newbs like me who do not necessarily have good soldering skills.

Don't throw the board away! Find a friend who can do fine soldering to fix it for you.

Maybe post a picture of the damage here on this thread and ask for volunteers.

I'll pay shipping for it before you throw it away!

Originally Posted by viper522

Copy that, thanks. It's an F450 frame, so not much can be out of level, but you're probably right that it's worth checking before making any changes.

If after you re-level and SL is still screwy I'd start looking at other components and make sure all is well.
My Calib. numbers are usually right around these... Calibration: X=618 Y=623 Z=762

Originally Posted by viper522

I think I need to remove my KK board and remount it, the self-level is acting bizarre - which I have described here before. Manual mode still flies great, though.

This may sound like a stupid question, but have you flashed the firmware yet? All boards so far come with v1.2 or earlier, and the self-level in those versions is broken.

I also saw a video within the last week where the guy mentions some manual calibration to get it to come off the ground straight every time. If I find the video, I will edit this post to link to it.

Here is the video. He starts talking about auto-level at about 2:55 and 5:20.

KK2 1.5 Firmware!!! Lets Talk (7 min 58 sec)