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Old Nov 29, 2012, 10:33 PM
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United States, TX, Richmond
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Originally Posted by tech69x View Post
I have 5 right now and I just bought a cnc and fixing to start cutting my own
Lucky you. I recommened you look at IrishKendoll's videos on YouTube. Has some great info on CNC stuff.
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Old Nov 30, 2012, 01:06 AM
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Carmichael, CA
Joined Feb 2007
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Here are video highlights from my last day of FPV with my KK2-450, including a couple "car chases" and some 3D airplane chase cam action:

SAP Turkey Leftovers (10 min 30 sec)



LOL that was my thumb adding all the wobble while I was chasing down the walk of shame. Despite all the fun I was having I decided to move on and replace the KK2 with APM. I'm turning my 450 quad in to a medium range FPV rig, where RTH is a requirement. I am saving the KK2 for use in a 330 size FPV quad I plan to build in the future. I figure a 330 sized KK2 quad would be more agile and affordable... better suited to aggressive short range FPV, where you never loose signal but hit the ground more often regardless.

Kev
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Old Nov 30, 2012, 01:06 AM
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Alsdorf/Eifel, Germany
Joined Jun 2005
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Originally Posted by brontide View Post
For those with DEAD BOARDS ONLY. Changing fuses is an unsafe operation and if your board is working you should never mess with them.

You have nothing else to lose, you can try a fuse reset. On my Mac the command would be similar to the following, but may be different for your system. I use the terminal and use the avrdude within the KK flashing tool.

Code:
./avrdude -C ./avrdude.conf -c usbasp -p m324pa -U lfuse:w:0xf7:m -U hfuse:w:0xd7:m -U efuse:w:0xfc:m -F
The one below is FOR TESTING ONLY, it switches to the internal chip clock. I needed to use these fuses to revive my board that was locking up. DO NOT FLY WITH THE FUSES BELOW. They are useful for the boards that are no longer responsive, but need to be applied as soon as the programmer is plugged in. After flashing with these I was able to flash and the set the proper fuses and the board has been flying ever since.

Code:
./avrdude -C ./avrdude.conf -c usbasp -p m324pa -U lfuse:w:0xe2:m -U hfuse:w:0xd7:m -U efuse:w:0xfc:m -F
Hi,

I just uploaded a new beta version of the flashtool, that has a new board "HobbyKing KK2.0 (fuse restore)" that does exact what you proposed. It first writes the fuses and afterwards the selected firmware. For normal flashing you can use the normal "HobbyKing KK2.0" board.

Best Christian
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Old Nov 30, 2012, 01:21 AM
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United States, TX, Spring
Joined Apr 2012
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Originally Posted by rcjose View Post
I tried flexing it with my hands and its pretty solid but will have to see once it's in the air. Pipe will be attached to the tees with screws, not glued on. In case of a break, it's easy to repair.
Cool keep us posted
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Old Nov 30, 2012, 03:11 AM
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United States, CA, Hayward
Joined Oct 2010
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4x4

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Originally Posted by RC911 View Post
That is so cool! Amazing yaw response too. Well done!
What firmware version are you running?
Did you start with a quad mixer setup and edited the remaining four output channels?
I'm running 1.2 V
Yes, it's on quad x mode set-up.
I got some help from YASOU840 on the set-up.
Thanks for liking it.
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Old Nov 30, 2012, 03:14 AM
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Australia, QLD, Brisbane
Joined Nov 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LazyZero View Post
Hi,

I just uploaded a new beta version of the flashtool, that has a new board "HobbyKing KK2.0 (fuse restore)" that does exact what you proposed. It first writes the fuses and afterwards the selected firmware. For normal flashing you can use the normal "HobbyKing KK2.0" board.

Best Christian
Great idea, fuses are a pain,
thanks.
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Old Nov 30, 2012, 03:19 AM
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United States, CA, Hayward
Joined Oct 2010
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sloppy !!!!

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Originally Posted by brontide View Post
Fight characteristics look a little sloppy, what was the feel?

With 0 yaw from RPM changes, this would mean that you could use all CCW or CW props, that could be convenient for my growing pile of R props missing a L.
You can't really go CRAZY on a maiden flight...you still don't know how it's gonna be...is it gonna fail or is it gonna hold and stay flying....
Talking about how it feel flying it....I don't like like my NON-SERVOS quads now...this is 500% way better.
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Old Nov 30, 2012, 03:29 AM
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Worcester UK
Joined Nov 2004
761 Posts
Hi Rolf,

If this code change can't be done then can you just let me know as i need to find another solution to this problem.
Regards,
Ian

Quote:
Originally Posted by crezzee View Post
kapteinkuk,

First may i say how impressed i am with fw1.5 on my kk2 board. It works really well, i love the new self level and gimbal feature.

I'm developing a very simple gimbal for multirotors that uses 2 servos for tilt and roll at the same time, similar to this system but much simpler and very easier to build. I will release a 'how to build it' thread once it's working properly.
So far the gimbal works really well when i use delta wing mixing on my transmitter, it's operation is very smooth.
However as your current gimbal software uses conventional gimbal outputs (1 servo for pitch & 1 servo for roll) i have to use a seperate v tail mixer to give me the required differential output.
The problem is all these cheap vtail servo mixers only have 200 steps for the servos and this makes the servos very notchy / jerky in motion causing the camera to shake and vibrate.
So my question is can you modify the gimbal part of the code to output channels 7 & 8 in differential mode so i can remove the cheap low resolution mixer and have smooth servos?
Cheers Ian
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Old Nov 30, 2012, 03:53 AM
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Ilford,Essex, UK
Joined May 2006
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Originally Posted by rcjose View Post
I tried flexing it with my hands and its pretty solid but will have to see once it's in the air. Pipe will be attached to the tees with screws, not glued on. In case of a break, it's easy to repair.
My 22" quad also uses pvc pipe as arms but mine is a lighter schedule (electrical conduit) but again using considerable force with my hands there is very little flex and the tube makes it nice to hide the wiring

I did crash my quad from about 15 foot while it was moving backwards and it just roled like a ball the arm s I believe obsorbed the impact and the ship is not particualy heavy @ 1 lb 8oz
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Old Nov 30, 2012, 04:04 AM
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Joined May 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cadriel View Post
1. Yaw input seems really sluggish. It rotates, just slowly. I've tried increasing the stick scaling for yaw to 75 from the default, and it helped - but not a huge amount. Is it just a matter of increasing it more - or could something else be causing this?

2. Yaw tuning. I can't find any information on how to tune Yaw? Do I just watch for wobble on the yaw axis or what?
Make sure you have autolevel off.
Try increasing the Yaw. I have mine around 75
From my experience, if the Yaw gain is to high when doing FF, it will wobble.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Cadriel View Post
3. Auto levelling initially with default settings was choppy. It was as if the p-gain was set WAY to high. I'm not sure if this was due to bad defaults or not. I've dropped the gain down for the auto-levelling settings to 40 which has helped a LOT. Is this normal for a ~450 quad?
Try lowering your autolevel gain.
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Old Nov 30, 2012, 07:01 AM
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badbill,
PM me please, I think I am close to you and want to try and meet.
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Old Nov 30, 2012, 08:28 AM
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United States, TX, Richmond
Joined Aug 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Upup View Post
My 22" quad also uses pvc pipe as arms but mine is a lighter schedule (electrical conduit) but again using considerable force with my hands there is very little flex and the tube makes it nice to hide the wiring

I did crash my quad from about 15 foot while it was moving backwards and it just roled like a ball the arm s I believe obsorbed the impact and the ship is not particualy heavy @ 1 lb 8oz
Very nice looking quad you have there!
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Old Nov 30, 2012, 08:37 AM
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United States, PA, Slatington
Joined Sep 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LazyZero View Post
Hi,

I just uploaded a new beta version of the flashtool, that has a new board "HobbyKing KK2.0 (fuse restore)" that does exact what you proposed. It first writes the fuses and afterwards the selected firmware. For normal flashing you can use the normal "HobbyKing KK2.0" board.

Best Christian
wow thanks .......i tried but my board still has blank screen .its toast .
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Old Nov 30, 2012, 09:15 AM
Stop me before I build again!
United States, NY, Albany
Joined Sep 2012
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Originally Posted by helizrnew2me View Post
wow thanks .......i tried but my board still has blank screen .its toast .
LCD broken != Toast, Stevis has the NOLCD firmware where you can still setup and configure the board from the computer ( presuming the chips are still good ).
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Old Nov 30, 2012, 09:15 AM
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United States, TX, Richmond
Joined Aug 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Truglodite View Post
Here are video highlights from my last day of FPV with my KK2-450, including a couple "car chases" and some 3D airplane chase cam action:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5_Oh4VISChg


LOL that was my thumb adding all the wobble while I was chasing down the walk of shame. Despite all the fun I was having I decided to move on and replace the KK2 with APM. I'm turning my 450 quad in to a medium range FPV rig, where RTH is a requirement. I am saving the KK2 for use in a 330 size FPV quad I plan to build in the future. I figure a 330 sized KK2 quad would be more agile and affordable... better suited to aggressive short range FPV, where you never loose signal but hit the ground more often regardless.

Kev
I have a Crius All In One Pro on order from RCTimer. Runs both MegaPirateNG and MultiWii firmware. It was on a Flash sale on Cyber Monday so I saved $10.00 It's at $59.00 now, which is still a good price.
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