Originally Posted by cyhyam

Yes it was on the aux switch, I did many test toggeling SL and watching the model return to level.

I wonder if the model is in a steady state fall where there is no angular change or acceleration if the sensors get confused.

The only other configuration check, what is your SL gain and limit? You are positive that you are on 1.4, this kind of behavior might be expected with 1.2 or 1.3, but 1.4. I'm starting to suspect a bad board.

Originally Posted by flitelab

I've not tried it yet but I suspect it will be different for every type of gimbal and servos since linkages and movement will not be same for everyone.

Well, finally camera pitch leveling works with about 700 gain and ONLY once roll gain is above 0 and motors are running.

Kaptain Kuk, would it be possible to disengage tyhese 2 servos' gains completely and also be able to test the stab of the camera without motors running on V1.6?

Originally Posted by COCO2010

Thanks bro ! Did you flash your ztw esc's too with SimonK fw?

No , they work well like this

Originally Posted by brontide

The only other configuration check, what is your SL gain and limit? You are positive that you are on 1.4, this kind of behavior might be expected with 1.2 or 1.3, but 1.4. I'm starting to suspect a bad board.

rechecked, it is 1.4.
Self-level, P gain : 70, P limit : 30

I flew this board with 1.2 since it came out, and noticed nothing out of the ordinary.

Do the flight PI settings have an effect in auto-level?
I have;
P gain : 150
P limit : 150
I gain : 80
I limit : 20

It flies very good with these settings, not acro, mostly FPV and camera work.

The model design I have been flying over a year and have logged hunderds of hours so I am ruling that out.

Originally Posted by COCO2010

Thanks bro ! Did you flash your ztw esc's too with SimonK fw?

yes all 6 in about 5 minutes start to finish. So easy with that dongle, also did the ones on the tri as well which are 20 amp ZTW esc's

I'm using a throtle curve in my quad like a heli. To be flat in the hover are... My question is: Some is using any other custom mix? Like Aile -> Thr & Elv -> Thr to increase the engines when you move you Aile or Elv stick to maintain the hover level?

Originally Posted by shafter

I've left my ESC's and propellers attached because the board is only powered from USB dongle for flashing ...

I've also plugged it in backwards by accident ... nothing happened but your mileage may vary

Originally Posted by Eastcoast78

yes you can leave the esc's on..as for the props..i would take em off.. cause you never know!

as for having the usbasp connected wrong. If its wrong the lcd well not power up. Unlike the older KK boards it well do no harm.

Thanks guys!

Originally Posted by vivazapata

No , they work well like this

the ZTW's work not bad non flashed but better flashed and seem to use less power as I get longer flight time with them SimonK'd, not a lot longer but notice that they take less ma's on recharge for the same time of flight. The tri has about 200 flights on it with about 25 of them SimonK'd. The hex is still an experiment at this time as I'm going from 9X4.5 props to 11X4.5 prop and a couple of different sizes in 10 inch as well so I won't make a comment on recharge ma as they take different power settings to fly depending on the size but the 10X4.5" look to be ideal size.

Originally Posted by cyhyam

I did some more testing in the still early morning air. The results were the same, even worse. On the LAST flight I did a climbing 1/2 forward flip so the model was vertical with the nose down at 60 degrees, flipped into self level. The self level held that nose down position so strong I didn't have enough stick travel to override. I tried different throttle settings to see if it would have any effect, none other than more increased forward speed. I missed the switch to release auto level and it crashed very hard at that angle. I'm looking at a few days repair.

reflash your KK2 then retest

Originally Posted by i3dm

Well, finally camera pitch leveling works with about 700 gain and ONLY once roll gain is above 0 and motors are running.

Kaptain Kuk, would it be possible to disengage tyhese 2 servos' gains completely and also be able to test the stab of the camera without motors running on V1.6?

Another thing I'd like to see added to the firmware is gimbal tilt. Same as the current gimbal, but with an option to use AUX for controlling the tilt angle in flight.

BTW, is there a preferred place to submit requested features/bugfixes for KK2? Gotta be a more efficient way than posting 'em in a thread that grows 5 pages in an hour.

Kev

Originally Posted by Truglodite

Another thing I'd like to see added to the firmware is gimbal tilt. Same as the current gimbal, but with an option to use AUX for controlling the tilt angle in flight.
Kev

This would be awesome. Since the KK2 already supports CPPM I dont see how this would be terribly difficult.

I also agree about a organized area for code releases, bug reports, and suggestions. Not like anything like that really exists

https://github.com/
http://code.google.com
http://sourceforge.net/

With so many posts about flashing the KK2 I thought it time to share my experience. My first FC was a kk Black board and it came with a Usbap (bottom right in the pic) after many hours trying to get it working, love nor money was going to make it happen. My computer skills are.... well... average at best. I read pages and pages on a vast number of web sites, checked, checked and re-checked everything I could think of and finally gave up. I ordered a new Usbap from HK (top left) ....... 10 minutes after tearing open the envelope both my boards were flashed. I dont know if the crap one is from a bad batch, has a unique issue or even if it is the right one for the job but, IT DON'T WORK. So if you have one of these and you are having problems, this might be the answer you are looking for.

P.S. sorry bout the pic quality, its early morning here and the gopro has no flash.

KK you are the bomb, Just went from 1.2 to 1.5 and WOW WOW WOW!

I thought 1.2 was good on my tricopter but 1.5 is just amazing.
The self level is mega fast and i now have my tilt gimbal working for the first time. Until now i have just had the camera on a switch to look up and down. I Can't wait until daylight to try the cam.

The only difference i noticed was in acro mode, my tricopter does not seem quite as stable as before and also seems more sensitive to stick inputs. I will play with stick scaling and PI gains to get it more 'locked in' while in acro mode.

Just need to add a roll servo next.

Originally Posted by jonesy40001

With so many posts about flashing the KK2 I thought it time to share my experience. My first FC was a kk Black board and it came with a Usbap (bottom right in the pic) after many hours trying to get it working, love nor money was going to make it happen. My computer skills are.... well... average at best. I read pages and pages on a vast number of web sites, checked, checked and re-checked everything I could think of and finally gave up. I ordered a new Usbap from HK (top left) ....... 10 minutes after tearing open the envelope both my boards were flashed. I dont know if the crap one is from a bad batch, has a unique issue or even if it is the right one for the job but, IT DON'T WORK. So if you have one of these and you are having problems, this might be the answer you are looking for.

P.S. sorry bout the pic quality, its early morning here and the gopro has no flash.

No, the xwopen can be used with the kkflashtool or self compiled avrdude from latest svn. The only thing is that is a bit tricky to install the driver on windows. See the video on my FAQ to understand how to make it work. BTW on Mac you only plug it and select "any USBasp clone" in the tool. Linux needs a udev rule (just one line) to make it work.

Best Christian

Originally Posted by jonesy40001

I ordered a new Usbap from HK (top left) ....... 10 minutes after tearing open the envelope both my boards were flashed.

I'll be happy to second the notion that the HK USBasp programmer is great... the pre-configured cable makes short work of hooking it up to the kk2.0 board.

However, in my particular case, the programmer came without the jumper at J1 and when I first hooked up, I expected the LCD on the board to light up but got nothing, fine.... I turned the connector the other way around (as has been mentioned here many times) and tried again, still no light in the lcd. A quick check with my DMM showed that J1 was the pass through for 5V to the programming cable... rummage around in my junk box, got an old motherboard jumper and put it on and away things went. I've not heard of anyone else having the problem, but just in case, that is what the jumper at J1 is there for...

Regards

Christian