Originally Posted by SteelHeadz

Nice flying there bro!! I can't blame that panda bear hiding behind the loveseat for the crazy things you do, lol..

Really nice to see you here brother and thanks !Have you figured out your quad issue yet ? Try posting that problem here and I will assure you that you will get some help or ideas on what's going on....that panda is not scared at all !lol

Quote:
Originally Posted by zokizo
i have problem

i connect battery i arm it i fly than i unarm it and i got error no pitch input

Check that you do no have a loose connection on your Pitch servo wire

If i disconnect battery and connect it again all its fine untill i unarm my hexa

can anybody help me thanks

After you disarm it, can you re arm it and fly? Do you only see (No Pitch Input) when disarmed?

no i can not armit again

Ok a small update after tonight tweaking PI values... Went up to 280 for P and finally reached 100... But all the other zone it was not "so active"... I see people tweaking by 10... Maybe I should raise the P limit? (100) . Finally stayed at 90/45 PI gains and 100/20 for the limits... Seems stable but I have a SLOW (more than the videos) oscillation between motor 2 and 4.... What this could be? It is really small... But I am trying for perfection!

Originally Posted by krobjenk

How would I un-reverse the gyro if that is the case? I tried to reflash the board with kkmulticopter and it comes up "Error during writing flash" every time I try it.

If your getting Errors during your flash..thats More then likely yur Problem..

Originally Posted by krobjenk

How would I un-reverse the gyro if that is the case? I tried to reflash the board with kkmulticopter and it comes up "Error during writing flash" every time I try it.

Reversing the gyro's is not recommended for the KK board. Unless its the Yaw gyro on a tricopter.

You will want to do a successful flash on your KK2 board before you try to fly it.

OK, it's taken me a long time to get to this point, but my quadcopter is flying great. I got the KK2 when it came out, but haven't been able to fly it much since then.

First thing to happen was my previous frame got obliterated in a crash, so I had to design & build a new one. The new one is nice, and cut out on a laser cutter. (no pics handy). Arms are cut from 12mm Baltic birch plywood, and are 12mm wide. While they are quick to break in a crash, they are extremely cheap to make.

Secondly, the LCD was coming loose on my KK2 board. I fixed this by gently pulling it off the backlight mount, removing the old adhesive, and then smearing a thin layer of clear silicone adhesive across the entire back of the display. This solidly mounts the display, so no problem now. It was barely attached when I got it. Use clear adhesive, since that lets the backlight do its job.

The third and biggest issue was that I never got the KK2 tuned to the new copter. So, the other day I started at post #1, and re-read all the tuning information. It worked very well, and my copter is a great flyer now. If only it had a great pilot.

The only minor thing I need to do on my copter is fine-tune the Yaw PI.

Thanks to everyone who has contributed to the collective knowledge here.

Have anyone told you guys what Kaptein Kuk means in Norwegian..? (The designer is norwegian)
Google translate it into your language...this guy has a sense of humor

Originally Posted by Mex

Here a flight video of my KK2.0 with HK DJI PCB frame i hope you like it




http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lrWMO9Fkkmw

Originally Posted by lakis21

Great quad! Nice Flight!
Can You please share the setup with us, and your settings?

Thank you in advance!

Q450 Glass Fiber Quadcopter Frame 450mm - Integrated PCB Version

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=24173

4X - NTM Prop Drive 28-26 1000KV / 315W

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=21478

4X - NTM Prop Drive 28 Series Accessory Pack

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=16719

10CM Male to Male Servo Lead (JR) 26AWG (10pcs/set)

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=21758

HXT 4mm Gold Connector w/ Protector (10pcs/set)

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=9283

PolyMax 3.5mm Gold Connectors 10 PAIRS (20PC)

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...p?idProduct=68


Turnigy 2200mAh 3S 40C Lipo Pack

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=10279

HK silicone wire 12awg black and red

HK shrinktube black 5mm

10x4.7 props i brought them from ebay but hobbyking has the same now with diffrent collors

i use 4X - 30amp hobbywing esc's (the same as the turnigy plush) but i think that 20amps would be fine to

Originally Posted by HappySundays

Sorry but that's not right. The assumption has been made that the problem is that only one reg is actually supplying power. Partly true, but not the actual problem.
This is the actual problem:
Let's imagine one reg wants to output 4.90V and the other 5.1V. Lets also imagine that some cheap-ass fool has tied them together directly.
The higher one tries to pull up the lower one and the lower one pulls down the higher one. And how does this actually manifest?
Linear regulators regulate by sinking and sourcing current. The lower one will sink current to try and pull it down, the higher one sources it to pull it up.
So the result is that both regulators pour as much current as they have available into getting the output voltage that they want (but can never have).
Eventually, one will shutdown through either over current or overheating and the other will temporarily "win". Briefly.
It may be that cabling helps current sharing but I would hardly call it perfect. More like "lucky".

Please open this:
http://www.sparkfun.com/datasheets/C...nts/LM7805.pdf
Look at the page #2 and tell me, which element on the schematic will allow this "down pull" of yours?

Anyone have any idea why my buzzer rings all the time regardless of voltage or voltage alarm setting?

Originally Posted by snipeworm

Anyone have any idea why my buzzer rings all the time regardless of voltage or voltage alarm setting?

Go back to page one and look for the video on setting up the buzzer. I don't use it. I use stand alone cell monitors plugged into the balance port. The are less than $2 at HK.

Sudsy

Great info, Mex! I have the HK wooden frame and it's been ok to learn on. How rigid is that one?

Originally Posted by unitone

Please open this:
http://www.sparkfun.com/datasheets/C...nts/LM7805.pdf
Look at the page #2 and tell me, which element on the schematic will allow this "down pull" of yours?

You completely missed my subsequent post describing my experiment to find out exactly what happens and why the SS series ESCs and similar ones are crap. Please go back and check just a few posts ahead.

I can't seem to find the answer to my question in this thread so I'm just going to ask.
when I try to calibrate my esc's I can't get the beep beep tone that tells me the full throttle position has been accepted, I just get a beep every second.
I am doing it in the right order, transmitter on, full throttle, hold down button 1 and 4, plug in the battery and then wait for the beep beep that tells me full throttle has been accepted.
Can anyone help or point me in the right direction

Originally Posted by biggles uk

I can't seem to find the answer to my question in this thread so I'm just going to ask.
when I try to calibrate my esc's I can't get the beep beep tone that tells me the full throttle position has been accepted, I just get a beep every second.
I am doing it in the right order, transmitter on, full throttle, hold down button 1 and 4, plug in the battery and then wait for the beep beep that tells me full throttle has been accepted.
Can anyone help or point me in the right direction

Personally I think this is the hardest part of the setup. I had to try several times until it just magically worked. Some folks do the ESC calibration one at a time by plugging each one into the throttle channel and calibrating just like you would for an airplane. I have never had to do that but it is a real pain in the butt.

One person here suggested unplugging M1 input and using that like a switch to enter the cal mode. It's easier to plug M1 in than to connect the battery while holding buttons 1&4. Some also suggested using two clothespins to hold the buttons thru the process. I have considered building a switched adapter to put in line with the battery.

Don't feel like the Lone Ranger. It happens often.

Sudsy