Originally Posted by momofx

Ok guys I got my quad 450 flying but I was wondering something - is the quad suppose to handle similar to a CP type helicopter?( ie. if you make it go in one direction it will keep going that way until you change the stick position). Sorry for the noob question - kinda in a hurry so I did not search lol.

In regular, non self leveling mode, yes presuming it is tuned properly.

What a frustration ... took a very long time to troubleshoot - reading all the v1.2 arming posts/solutions; but I found one that worked for me ...

Program in a Rudder TRAVEL ADJUSTMENT of 108%, both left and right. VOILA!!

Originally Posted by rshep

What a frustration ... took a very long time to troubleshoot - reading all the v1.2 arming posts/solutions; but I found one that worked for me ...

Program in a Rudder TRAVEL ADJUSTMENT of 108%, both left and right. VOILA!!

What kind of radio system do you use?

I would try recalibrating the sticks on the Tx. Also the big fixed kk1.2 has the added arming test to the receiver test screen that would have diagnosed this problem.

Sudsy, a Spectrum DX7. brontide, you make it all so simple ...

Hey guys look what I found and I'm not the seller nor do I know him just tought I would let y'all know

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1752075

Finally got my tricopter flying again. This is the second flight with a revised yaw setup and servo. The KK2 is basically stock 1.2FW, think I raised the yaw scale stick a bit based on a comment I saw here. Had to switch to low rates on roll & pitch while I get the hang of it.

Tricopter 2nd Flight (1 min 44 sec)

Blowing a gale today so I couldn't fly. Tried one flight tonight, thinking it might have calmed a bit (not much). Flew OK once I realized I'd inadvertently switched on auto-level & turned it off. Wondered why all of a sudden I had insufficient control. Fortunately the crash landing after getting blown downwind didn't damage anything. I think I'm going to switch it to the side spoiler lever to make inadvertent engagement less likely.

I broke the yaw servo on the first test flight when I clipped something. Likely my fault for using too wimpy a servo (HK 922MG with 1.8kg of torque) for the direct drive rcexplorer style yaw pivot. The new setup is close to hallstudio's, just with a motor block made of a scrap of cutting board plastic and a chunk of knitting needle as the pivot. Works great with the Turnigy MG930 servo (3.6kg of torque) and doesn't seem to flutter in flight at all, unlike the first version.

I'm looking forward to more flying and tuning if the weather cooperates.

cheers,
Andrew

Originally Posted by Banjo5

Finally got my tricopter flying again. This is the second flight with a revised yaw setup and servo. The KK2 is basically stock 1.2FW, think I raised the yaw scale stick a bit based on a comment I saw here. Had to switch to low rates on roll & pitch while I get the hang of it.

http://youtu.be/SK92fhFo3QM

Blowing a gale today so I couldn't fly. Tried one flight tonight, thinking it might have calmed a bit (not much). Flew OK once I realized I'd inadvertently switched on auto-level & turned it off. Wondered why all of a sudden I had insufficient control. Fortunately the crash landing after getting blown downwind didn't damage anything. I think I'm going to switch it to the side spoiler lever to make inadvertent engagement less likely.

I broke the yaw servo on the first test flight when I clipped something. Likely my fault for using too wimpy a servo (HK 922MG with 1.8kg of torque) for the direct drive rcexplorer style yaw pivot. The new setup is close to hallstudio's, just with a motor block made of a scrap of cutting board plastic and a chunk of knitting needle as the pivot. Works great with the Turnigy MG930 servo (3.6kg of torque) and doesn't seem to flutter in flight at all, unlike the first version.

I'm looking forward to more flying and tuning if the weather cooperates.

cheers,
Andrew

Good video. I especially liked the final comment. Walking away from a landing is a good thing. I hate the one's I have to run away from!!!

I took 36 LEDs off and reconfigured the remaining.


Sudsy

Can anyone give me some Height Dampening numbers for a quad. Whats a good starting point and what are the setup elements? I am thinking this is throttle modulating? Or is it throttle dampening?

Sudsy

testing my KK2 on RDX4

Quad FPV - RDX4 (3 min 19 sec)

Originally Posted by brontide

Also the big fixed kk1.2 has the added arming test to the receiver test screen that would have diagnosed this problem.

Yep, that is why I wrote the added functionality in as a lot of people are having problems arming their KK2.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1743395

Well I got to foolin around with throttle travel settings and such on my DX7 and also turned on Height Dampening (set to 30/5) and now I can ARM with right rudder at idle but not SAFE with left rudder input at idle. Am I going to have to do the dreaded "throttle calibration" again? Should I just do each individual ESC straight from the receiver. I mean I'm retired and have nothing but time.

BTW I noticed that I was at 2/3 throttle yesterday just to hover. I did gain some rpm with the new settings. The machine just sounds more powerful now.

Should I do my P&I settings again. It rained here again today so I just slept in.

OK I just remembered the earlier post and have reset my rudder limits to 108/108. We will see if that works a little later. I may have increased the travel limits because I was not happy with the yaw rate. I checked other models on m Tx and reset throttle and rudder to defaults. I just have to stop fooling with stuff.

I think I forgot to say that it weighs 2.18 lbs without the battery pack. I am flying some 4 cell 4000 packs and they are pretty heavy. (308 grams/10 oz)

Sudsy

Can someone lead me to the instructions for "Flashing" this card? I have the usb interface cable from HK. I did reflash my old V-3 card but This is a new 64 bit computer and I used my old one before. I see the files. I just need a step by step procedure.

Sudsy

Originally Posted by Dirt-Torpedo

The +B hole is intended to tap into the positive lead from the flight pack and I did solder from the bottom - the wire was pushed in through the top and soldered on the back side of the board. No freaking way I would solder on the top side - too much surface mount and tight quarters.

It's always good practice to twist and tin the wire end before soldering it in place. This assures that all strands are soldered, they don't break because of vibration, and the solder joint will go all the way through the hole to the other side of the PCB.

Fred