Originally Posted by brontide

Until you can get the ESC and motor to work without the KK board I would would not presume its a bad board. Maybe map one of the knobs to an aux channel to rule out the Rx unit as well?

Originally Posted by Del-Dredd

Agree with Bontide you need to make sure this is right.

Did you try the connector to the Rx up the other way, ie switch black and white/orange, constant beeps means no signal usually.

Also check the ESC's are all programmed the same with Brake off, Nimh Battery and Low cutoff etc (standard for Multirotors), you should have instructions that came with them, either using Tx and beeps or a program card.

On the KK2 the wires from Rx and to the motors should all have the black wire to the outside of the board.

thanks Brontide & Del-Dredd, will try it today and post the result.

UPDATE:
Calibrating all ESC one by one, and test it... horray... it sync with same speed on each motor, even on M1
Many thanks for pointing it out for me.

But I'm very glad it didn't happen in flight. My bad, as shown in the photo, a strand of wire was floating around off the battery monitor and an inadvertent 4S connection seems to have taken out the analog voltage reference.

Might be repairable but why chance it. The replacement KK will be fed more carefully, probably with insulated resistor lead.

Originally Posted by COCO2010

Thanks ! I am like 50% done ....still alot of things to do.I did cut the shaft on all DT700 motors...frame is ready but looks like I need a higher skid.I have the T380 skid on it right now, I can get away with it but ,I want it higher.How 'bout yours?Are you almost done ? What frame are you using ?

My Y6 is almost ready for testing. I just need to 'borrow' the KK2.0 controller from my VTail copter.

I am using a modified VC-550 QUAD/OCTO frame from HoverThings (www.hoverthings.com) with one arm removed, so the copter will look like a T instead of an Y. I had to extend the rear arm a bit and this has taken some time (Metal work is not my forte. ). You can expect pictures and additional information in a few days.

Originally Posted by Dirt-Torpedo

But I'm very glad it didn't happen in flight. My bad, as shown in the photo, a strand of wire was floating around off the battery monitor and an inadvertent 4S connection seems to have taken out the analog voltage reference.

Might be repairable but why chance it. The replacement KK will be fed more carefully, probably with insulated resistor lead.

you should solder a pin instead. that way you can always disconnect it.

Originally Posted by waladi

Hi All..

I am really new in this rc (so please bear with me here..).
With lots of help from friends, I manage to assemble my first quad with following spec: HK KK2 board with LCD, ESC Turnigy Plush 30A and NTM motors with Turnigy 9X Tx and 8ch Rx.

Checklist before first flight:
* Sensor test and calibrate -> ok
* Load motor layout : Quad "X" mode and check motor rotation -> ok
* Receiver test -> ok
* ESC Calibration -> beep perfectly -> (assuming) ok with stock HK firmware

Then arming the motor and put the throttle 50%.. and got the problem below..

Problem Shown:
* 3 motors spin at same speed but 1 motor (R1) spin more slower then others.
* even if we change the motor and ESC from any motors (R2, R3, R4) to port motor #1 (R1) will give the same result as above, previous R1 motor & ESC will act normally on R2, R3, R4 port.
* Factory reset and re-checked above checklist end up with the same problem.
* Try to connect the ESC directly to the throttle ch 3 in order to calibrate one-by-one but got the annoying constant beep and not responding to throttle stick.

Suspect:
* Bad firmware loaded ?
"assuming" already got the latest one with battery level on SAFE screen.
* Bad soldering ?
How do I check the solder quality on R1 or other places?

Please help me.. any suggestion will be highly appreciated..

Did you try a 'lift-off'? Will it fly?
Maybe all that is needed is some stick trim.

Originally Posted by Dirt-Torpedo

But I'm very glad it didn't happen in flight. My bad, as shown in the photo, a strand of wire was floating around off the battery monitor and an inadvertent 4S connection seems to have taken out the analog voltage reference.

Might be repairable but why chance it. The replacement KK will be fed more carefully, probably with insulated resistor lead.

I though it was the norm to solder if from the bottom? also to the Neg tab? I haven't done this mod yet. But was considering too. I use a LVC alarm.

Originally Posted by Eastcoast78

I though it was the norm to solder if from the bottom? also to the Neg tab? I haven't done this mod yet. But was considering too. I use a LVC alarm.

The +B hole is intended to tap into the positive lead from the flight pack and I did solder from the bottom - the wire was pushed in through the top and soldered on the back side of the board. No freaking way I would solder on the top side - too much surface mount and tight quarters. The top side pad and bottom side pad of a "via" or "through hole" are electrically joined by by plating or sleeves, as shown in the attached PCB cutaway:

Originally Posted by RC911

Did you try a 'lift-off'? Will it fly?
Maybe all that is needed is some stick trim.

Yes it "fly" towards the slow motor M1 (not R1, sorry) and almost flip off.

UPDATE:
Horray... Now it sync nicely, have to calibrate the ESC one by one. Thanks..

All went well. I did learn a lot. My P&I settings came out to the following with a 10 MPH wind blowing and gusting to 15. I have a video and I know these numbers seem high as compared to anything I have read so far here. This is a HK Talon V-2 with four pancake motors the each weight 67 grams. (it's a heavy unit) I fy it with four cell 4000 Mha packs. I have just turned uo the yaw P gain to 100 and the Yaw P limit to 50 but I have not flown with these rudder settings. When that #4 motor went askew it made right rudder ineffective. The yaw was sluggish at best with the default settings.

P gain= 265
P limit=100

I gain=285
I limit=50

self level

P gain=65
P limit=30

I plan to recheck in calm wind but I was anxious to fly it.

I have a video for YouTube I will try to get up soon. The biggest problem was things getting loose. I used locktite on all fasteners but #4 motor lollipop was very loose and all four arms needed to be retightened. I hope it's just the parts getting to "know" each other. I did add set screws (grub screws) to the lillipop ends and think that will help that issue.

Sudsy

Congrats on the Maiden. wow yea that is quite high. Theres proof!! Every muti rotor well have diff setting...

Originally Posted by Eastcoast78

Congrats on the Maiden. wow yea that is quite high. Theres proof!! Every muti rotor well have diff setting...

I really need to weigh this thing. It sure seems like its very heavy compared to my Talon V-1. Those motors are really heavy. I am thinking I will go from the 10 inche props to a set of 12 or 13 inch. The moors are 570 kva I think. (pretty close to that).

Hey, it was dark. And scary.

Really it flew well. But when the #4 came loose it became a handful. I found all four arms loose post flight. Hint, take tools with you. And locktite. If I continue to have problems with the mounts and arms coming loose I will maybe add some adhesive to joints. Rubber cement perhaps.

Talon V-2 KK2 control 1 (5 min 32 sec)

Sudsy

Originally Posted by Sudsy

Hey, it was dark. And scary.

Really it flew well. But when the #4 came loose it became a handful. I found all four arms loose post flight. Hint, take tools with you. And locktite. If I continue to have problems with the mounts and arms coming loose I will maybe add some adhesive to joints. Rubber cement perhaps.

http://youtu.be/alFSqhCbHGk

Sudsy

Same thing happen to me with that frame so I stop using it and switch to a frame with square arms. And the aluminum motor mount bend easy with hard landing. Cracked one bending back straight and stripped threading on another motor mount trying to keep it from twisting.

Also you have to let the locktite dry. I found after letting sit for a few days the screws really didn't come so loose.

Originally Posted by TheFernMan

Same thing happen to me with that frame so I stop using it and switch to a frame with square arms. And the aluminum motor mount bend easy with hard landing. Cracked one bending back straight and stripped threading on another motor mount trying to keep it from twisting.

Also you have to let the locktite dry. I found after letting sit for a few days the screws really didn't come so loose.

I re tightened everything with locktite. (took em all out and re installed) I also added some grub screws to the lollipops to help keep straight. I will build my own frame next.

here's another video from tonight. The #4 motor really got out of whack here. Still these things are so resilient !!!

Oh yea, Did I mention that I am taking off about half of the lights! Save all around. It's just too bright.

Talon V-2 KK2 Control 2 (1 min 57 sec)

Sudsy

....just wanna share some pix of my Y6 ...still waiting for the kk2 board.