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Old Sep 18, 2012, 07:50 AM
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Originally Posted by er9xuser View Post
I'm using metal screws. They are touching PCB but I have no problems.
If the screw or nut in the top right hand corner overlays the first non ground track (power) then it WILL eventually fail. Vibration (and a few hard landings) will eventually result in the screw head wearing through the green solder mask on the PCB.
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Old Sep 18, 2012, 08:08 AM
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Austria
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Originally Posted by teopbako View Post
Do you think that the HK Blue Series 20A esc need flashing or it is just recomended?
Everything is possible ...

In my case the quad was terrible and uncontrollable with stock firmware ...

But .... people could also have different experiences ...

Some quad boards work with vanilla 50Hz ... so stock firmware is maybe ok for these boards (KK2.0 works around 200Hz .... so a stock Firmware is losing 75% of CPU computation from KK2.0)

Some quad are designed more stable then other, some have better balanced motor+propellers, etc ... so hard to say a definitely true about it ...

Still ... flash these ESC is very simple .. and it come at almost no cost (assuming one have the USBasp) ... so ... put in the SimonK on these I think is recommended for quad applications (for a different type of ESC usage, maybe stock firmware is better)

Tchuss

e_lm_70
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Old Sep 18, 2012, 08:34 AM
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Slovenia, Ljubljana
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asmallri View Post
If the screw or nut in the top right hand corner overlays the first non ground track (power) then it WILL eventually fail. Vibration (and a few hard landings) will eventually result in the screw head wearing through the green solder mask on the PCB.
I have few hard landings and nothing happened. Screw has small head and I think will not touch non ground track. Can you post a picture and mark this non ground track?
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Old Sep 18, 2012, 08:55 AM
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Originally Posted by er9xuser View Post
I have few hard landings and nothing happened. Screw has small head and I think will not touch non ground track. Can you post a picture and mark this non ground track?
If your screw does not touch any tracks then you have no problem.
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Old Sep 18, 2012, 09:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by e_lm_70 View Post
The main problem is the Firmware in the ESC ... that is quite poor.

I'm using the same ESC, but I did flash them (this did change from night to day for my quad).

If you don't want to flash them ... take care to:
Configure all as : No Brakes, NiMh, HardTiming, 16KHz
ESC calibration from KK2 will not work ... so just ignore it.
All ESC will be needed to configured one by one ... so better you take the esc and 1 test motor out for do this operations.

Use low value of PI ... and expect slow stability ...

Else ... you can flash with SimonK firmware and your Quad will be ready for be in a different level

Tchuss

e_lm_70
Thanks, I will try this setting before flashing because I want to test the difference with the flashed ones...

Thanks.-
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Old Sep 18, 2012, 09:40 AM
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Israel, Ashdod
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Originally Posted by pablojaime View Post
Hi all, probably my question is already answered, but i lack of time to search in 270 pages of the thread, so here is:
I have a Tricopter, connected everything by the book, calibrated ESC's, calibrated sensors, calibrated sticks in the radio.
and when i connect the battery to the tricopter, the ESC's starts to beep faster, if i enter the menu of the board, after 2sec the beeping stops and the ESC's beeps every 5sec(normally), if i exit the menu, the beeping starts again and i can arm the FC but none of the motors start, only the rudder servo responds to the stick input after about 10% of throttle.
what can be wrong? why is the beeping?
Thanks!!

Pablo.
Ok, after searching all the thread found only one guy having the same problem, but his solution don't fit me...
so after flashing and re-flashing... testing ESC's calibration with FC and without FC, changing EPA on the radio, trims and so on... also in the FC i can see Throttle is in Idle on stick low and Full in stick high... and after a few hours of this and burning my brain..., I remembered that I have an old ESC from RCtimer 20Amp with motor from a non living plane.. so hooked up... and FUC Sh!!!! no beeping!!!! and works!!!! W.T.F.!!!!
Zen..... entering my Zen......
So, my Turnigy Plush 18Amp ESC's are no working with the KK2, witch is strange cause worked well with the old KK V2.1.
So is anyone flying with KK2 and Turnigy Plush 18Amp ESC's??? or it's only my ESC's Crazy????
Thanks!!!

Pablo.
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Old Sep 18, 2012, 10:09 AM
Dixie Normious
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Originally Posted by HappySundays View Post
Quite possibly
I watched the first two minutes of the video where you demo the copter heading off in the same direction when you switch on autolevel.
That looks like classic autolevel miscalibration.
If the accelerometers are not calibrated dead level, or if they haven't been zeroed at all, precisely that will happen.
Forgive me if you do it later in the video but, did you calibrate it level?
thanks, please watch the entire video

KK2 AutoLevel testing (7 min 28 sec)
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Old Sep 18, 2012, 11:01 AM
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I just flashed my rctimer 20a with simonk....they are so much quiter and smoother..... i should have done this on my very first build
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Old Sep 18, 2012, 11:06 AM
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Originally Posted by teopbako View Post
Do you think that the HK Blue Series 20A esc need flashing or it is just recomended?
I'm using the HK Blue Series ESCs in two quads now (30A version).

These ESCs can take up to 500 Hz without flashing! I have no idea if the ESC also gives out corrections 500 times per second to the motors, but at least it can handle up to 500 Hz without shutting down.
Tested it up to 333 Hz myself without problems.

Source: German forum
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Old Sep 18, 2012, 11:21 AM
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@pabmadi

I use regular esc and not flashable and it works great.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=6457

Look at your settings before
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Old Sep 18, 2012, 11:31 AM
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United States, CA, Hayward
Joined Oct 2010
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Y4

Quote:
Originally Posted by srepfler View Post
All props must have text looking up, and produce down thrust,
if any motor produce up thrust just reverse any two motor plugs.
Props must be R for clock wise, and normal for CCW as @T3PRanch stated.

You ca not fly Y4 with quad x setup on KK2 you must select Y4 or manualy edit mix but selecting is preferred method.
You should flash 1.2 fw for Y4. ( only Y6 on 1.0)
Thanks. I think I will just flash my kk2 to 1.2....or maybe I will try playing manually edit mix....or not.
Just got my D2822/17 motors for my mini quad...i think I will just put this y4 aside for now and start building my mini.Thanks srepfler !
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Old Sep 18, 2012, 11:39 AM
Ikaruswannab
Joined Sep 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teopbako View Post
Yesterday i flew my BumbleBee (KK2 equipped) and as i was on the 2nd minute of flight it suddenly turned left and fell from the sky!!!!
Checked the bat and it was at 11.7V, not even half way for a 3s.
Lost a prop and a motor mount (HK is out of stock on them.....snif)
So, any ideas?
Anybody had that happen to him too?
PS
If you think it might help i have a video of the crash to upload
(i know crashes are the best part....)
Just posting the video of the above incident.
If any had the same happen to him and has a clue please do tell.

BumbleBee motor failure. (1 min 40 sec)
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Old Sep 18, 2012, 12:09 PM
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Originally Posted by HappySundays View Post
Ok your first drawing (top left) shows the picture perfect standard two-supply KK2 config recommended by all. It works because M1 is separate from M2 and M1 supplies the KK2 and RX.

My next paragraph depends on the interpretation of the drawing. By "PPM" do you mean a combined PPM stream with all channels on ONE wire? I call this CPPM to avoid confusion. Or is it just conventional one-wire-per-channel PWM signals?

(If multi-wire PWM)
In the top-right drawing, your ESC on M1 will fight your BEC on the RX, via the KK2 and the RX connections. This is not recommended and will not help your KK2 or RX. The RX will work just fine powered with the KK2 via M1. The RX generally has better line filtering than the KK2.

(If CPPM)
In the top-right drawing, the BEC is only powering the RX. This is nice, but I think unnecessary.
Placing a resistor where indicated on the ELE input loads the ESC on M1, not the KK2 or BEC. All the gyros and accs have their own 3.3V regs coming from the M1 5V line. This means the load on 5V can only affect the ESC supplying that power.

I have no idea why you see the affect on your KK2 board. I suspect the gyros failing is something intermittent that is coincidental with your power experiments unfortunately.
Yes it's the latter, cPPM. I was working on an FPV control link problem; that's why I wanted isolated power supplies. The problem unfortunately is very repeatable on my board, with those esc's. I'm inclined to think similar regulator IC's are used on many different esc's. So this problem may not be limited to HK Blue series. I had no idea 7805's (or whatever they use) actually need some load to work, and I figured the KK2 alone would draw more than 50mA anyways.

This is sort of an esoteric problem, and my quad works great now that my RFI problem is solved. It turned out my problem was a "bad UID" on my DL Tx; changed UID and it works great. So I went back to powering the rx from M1 (cleaner wiring & less parts to fail). Maybe if someone else deals with the problem they can try the batteries out.

Kev
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Old Sep 18, 2012, 12:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teopbako View Post
Just posting the video of the above incident.
If any had the same happen to him and has a clue please do tell.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tqE1f...ature=youtu.be
Eew, that's no good... looks like the one motor shut down on you. Maybe it was an esc cutoff, intermittent wire...? Are your motors directly soldered?

FYI, I'm using flashed Blue Series 20A esc's, NTM 2826-1200 motors,10x45sf props, fw450 frame, AUW over 40oz, and the only KK2 v1.2 changes are P=100 & I=50. The tuning is not yet refined, but it has had several solid flights that made my friend with Naza raise his brow.

Kev
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Old Sep 18, 2012, 12:26 PM
Ikaruswannab
Joined Sep 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Truglodite View Post
Eew, that's no good... looks like the one motor shut down on you. Maybe it was an esc cutoff, intermittent wire...? Are your motors directly soldered?

FYI, I'm using flashed Blue Series 20A esc's, NTM 2826-1200 motors,10x45sf props, fw450 frame, AUW over 40oz, and the only KK2 v1.2 changes are P=100 & I=50. The tuning is not yet refined, but it has had several solid flights that made my friend with Naza raise his brow.

Kev
I am running stock BumbleBee equippment that include the motors with the same ESC as yours (not flashed) and a KK2 1.2v half way tunned...
It flew great as long as it lasted but just can't find what went wrong.
Motorts are soldered to the ESC's. And that flight was made at half throttle.
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