Originally Posted by Truglodite

When I connect the red wire between my rx and KK2, all sensors pass and the quad flies great. When I try to power my rx from a separate source (KK still powered by M1), all 3 of the KK2 gyros fail the sensor test; accelerometers are not affected. Then, with the separate power to the rx, I hook up a 100ohm resistor between ground and the 5V output on the rx side of the KK2, et voila, the gyros pass!

You'll have to back up a little and go over that again... If you re-read your post I think you'll see what I mean

Loading the power source going TO the KK2 (on the RX side) speaks only of a fault with the supply in question, not the KK2.

Can you write out again the two scenarios (good and bad) showing:
1. The RX side connections
2. The M1 side connections

I suspect that the problem is actually an ESC or BEC you have that needs a load to operate at the right voltage, but it's hard to tell from your post.

As kaz1104 mentions, you have to be extremely careful coupling the RX and M1 sides with separate supplies and never couple RX and M2 - M8 sides together on a KK2 as explained by Mr. KK

Originally Posted by pabmadi

Hello, I have my KK2 ready and testing ... the problem is that I can not get it stable. I can not find the fair gain for PID values...


My setup is as follows:


ESC: Hobby King 20A F-20A
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=15202


FRAME: Q450
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=24173


ENGINE: hacker Style Brushless Outrunner 20-28M
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=4701


I have a question regarding the ESC, I am using it with default values and without flashing. I understand that you should change the battery type nickel, but either way it does not affect the flight ... But there are 2 parameters that I think should be changed as manufactured:



-Operating frequency: 8 kHz comes in, it would be better 16Khz?

-Startup of motor: comes in Smooth would change if I put in Accelerated startup?


Is there a way to program all at the same time while the ESC's are connected to the board?


Finally, someone has the same configuration, to shere with me youe PID values​​??


Greetings. -

Unfortunately you will not find good PI settings. I have the same frame and I couldn't find either. So I change frame with x525 and quad flyes like a charm. I think q450 has too much vibrations.

Originally Posted by asmallri

I just repaired a dead KK2.0 board for another flyer. It turns out that the board was mounted on his craft using metal screws. The mounting holes have a very small clearance between the hole and the earth (0 volt rail). The screw head that were used for this craft were large enough then they bridged between the ground and with an adjacent track. In the case of the top right hand mounting hole, this results in shorting the ground to the incoming 5V from the BEC on motor position one (metal nuts would produce the same problem). When the +5 volt rail was shorted to ground, large power supply currents flow and, in this case, a track on the KK2.0 blew like a fuse. Turns out this section of track was the negative connection between the Ground common of the motor connectors to the PCB ground plane.

I suspect this is likely to be a common problem. The solution is simple, underneath the board in line with the ground connection for the motor pins 3mm from the M1 ground connection is the GND solder pad. Connect a thin piece of wire between this and the M1 ground connection.

How to tell is your controller has this problem?
Does you KK2.0 appear completely dead (not even a back light)? if so then it is a candidate. If you plug in the USB programmer and the board now appears to work (powering the KK2.0 via the programming header) then a blown track is almost certainly your problem. It could be the ground connection as was the case with this unit or it could be the positive track in which case you should be able to visually inspect the track on the top right hand corner of the board. This track goes to the M1 +5v pin (i.e. middle pin).

If you are going to use metal screws or nuts then ensure you use a nylon washer between the screw and the PCB such that the screw head or nut does not come into physical contact with the PCB.

I'm using metal screws. They are touching PCB but I have no problems.

@er9xuser

Sorry but this is wrong.
I use HH Q450 frame with 1400kv motors from bidproduct, propellers 8x4,5, esc 18-20A HK

He flie like a charm.
I will give you my settings tonight (P gain are low for sure Roll/pitch 30)

Originally Posted by T3PRanch

Normal props go on CCW motors
Reverse props go on CW motors.

Thurmond

Thanks for responding....have a safe n fun flight always !!!
By the way,my kk2 motor lay-out is Quadcopter x-mode,is this correct ?

Originally Posted by HappySundays

You'll have to back up a little and go over that again... If you re-read your post I think you'll see what I mean

Loading the power source going TO the KK2 (on the RX side) speaks only of a fault with the supply in question, not the KK2.

Can you write out again the two scenarios (good and bad) showing:
1. The RX side connections
2. The M1 side connections

I suspect that the problem is actually an ESC or BEC you have that needs a load to operate at the right voltage, but it's hard to tell from your post.

As kaz1104 mentions, you have to be extremely careful coupling the RX and M1 sides with separate supplies and never couple RX and M2 - M8 sides together on a KK2 as explained by Mr. KK

Thought I described it accurately. A picture is worth 1000 words. The isolated power supply might be useful for FPV folks.

Kev

[edit: They are HK Blue 20A esc's, and my DMM showed 4.95V at all times. It was a cheap meter so maybe there were spikes I didn't see. AC read less than the tolerance of the cheap DMM.]

here you are ^^ :

Firmware 1.2

Pi
==
Roll/Pitch 30/100/15/20
Yaw 30/20/50/10

Mode Settings
============
Aux/Stick/Yes/Yes/No

Stick Scaling
===========
30/30/50/86

Misc
====
10/0/30/0/0

Self Level (not used)
70/70/0/0

CCPM (not used)
1/2/3/4/5

Mixer Editor (automatic with choice Quadricopter X)
100/-71/71/100/0/Esc/High

HK Q450 (880g with battery 2200 3s - autonomie 10mn)
Moteurs 1400 Kv
Esc 18/20A Bec 2A
Hélices 8x4,5
Carte KK2.0

Originally Posted by ziggy95

@er9xuser

Sorry but this is wrong.
I use HH Q450 frame with 1400kv motors from bidproduct, propellers 8x4,5, esc 18-20A HK

He flie like a charm.
I will give you my settings tonight (P gain are low for sure Roll/pitch 30)

Correct. I have simonized ESC's and I have too put P settings to 40 but quad did still wobles. So I have changed frames and I can set P to 160 without wobling.

Originally Posted by ziggy95

here you are ^^ :

Firmware 1.2

Pi
==
Roll/Pitch 30/100/15/20
Yaw 30/20/50/10

Mode Settings
============
Aux/Stick/Yes/Yes/No

Stick Scaling
===========
30/30/50/86

Misc
====
10/0/30/0/0

Self Level (not used)
70/70/0/0

CCPM (not used)
1/2/3/4/5

Mixer Editor (automatic with choice Quadricopter X)
100/-71/71/100/0/Esc/High

HK Q450 (880g with battery 2200 3s - autonomie 10mn)
Moteurs 1400 Kv
Esc 18/20A Bec 2A
Hélices 8x4,5
Carte KK2.0

If this working for you that is great. I'm using 80/80/75/90 for stick scaling.

Yep. No vibration, no strange attitude.
I only publish my settings for people who are using this HK Q450 Frame.

My settings are not very far from 1.2 default settings

Originally Posted by ziggy95

Yep. No vibration, no strange attitude.
I only publish my settings for people who are using this HK Q450 Frame.

My settings are not very far from 1.2 default settings

I know. But like I said..I have simonized esc's and I want to have much higher gain set gor my quad.

Originally Posted by Truglodite

Thought I described it accurately. A picture is worth 1000 words. The isolated power supply might be useful for FPV folks.

Ok your first drawing (top left) shows the picture perfect standard two-supply KK2 config recommended by all. It works because M1 is separate from M2 and M1 supplies the KK2 and RX.

My next paragraph depends on the interpretation of the drawing. By "PPM" do you mean a combined PPM stream with all channels on ONE wire? I call this CPPM to avoid confusion. Or is it just conventional one-wire-per-channel PWM signals?

(If multi-wire PWM)
In the top-right drawing, your ESC on M1 will fight your BEC on the RX, via the KK2 and the RX connections. This is not recommended and will not help your KK2 or RX. The RX will work just fine powered with the KK2 via M1. The RX generally has better line filtering than the KK2.

(If CPPM)
In the top-right drawing, the BEC is only powering the RX. This is nice, but I think unnecessary.
Placing a resistor where indicated on the ELE input loads the ESC on M1, not the KK2 or BEC. All the gyros and accs have their own 3.3V regs coming from the M1 5V line. This means the load on 5V can only affect the ESC supplying that power.

I have no idea why you see the affect on your KK2 board. I suspect the gyros failing is something intermittent that is coincidental with your power experiments unfortunately.

Originally Posted by pabmadi

Hello, I have my KK2 ready and testing ... the problem is that I can not get it stable. I can not find the fair gain for PID values...


My setup is as follows:


ESC: Hobby King 20A F-20A
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=15202


FRAME: Q450
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=24173


ENGINE: hacker Style Brushless Outrunner 20-28M
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=4701


I have a question regarding the ESC, I am using it with default values and without flashing. I understand that you should change the battery type nickel, but either way it does not affect the flight ... But there are 2 parameters that I think should be changed as manufactured:



-Operating frequency: 8 kHz comes in, it would be better 16Khz?

-Startup of motor: comes in Smooth would change if I put in Accelerated startup?


Is there a way to program all at the same time while the ESC's are connected to the board?


Finally, someone has the same configuration, to shere with me youe PID values​​??


Greetings. -

The main problem is the Firmware in the ESC ... that is quite poor.

I'm using the same ESC, but I did flash them (this did change from night to day for my quad).

If you don't want to flash them ... take care to:
Configure all as : No Brakes, NiMh, HardTiming, 16KHz
ESC calibration from KK2 will not work ... so just ignore it.
All ESC will be needed to configured one by one ... so better you take the esc and 1 test motor out for do this operations.

Use low value of PI ... and expect slow stability ...

Else ... you can flash with SimonK firmware and your Quad will be ready for be in a different level

Tchuss

e_lm_70

The F-20A from HK is a great esc to flash ... very simple to do. Unflashed they are a pretty poor esc for multirotor use.

Do you think that the HK Blue Series 20A esc need flashing or it is just recomended?