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Old Aug 08, 2012, 08:03 AM
Enjoying the sunshine
HappySundays's Avatar
Australia, NSW, Sydney
Joined Feb 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobepine View Post
I received my HK ESCs today and I'll attempt to flash them tonight after work. Can't wait to see what this simonk fuss is all about.
Best,
Chris
Great, I have all the tools but I've never actually tried to reflash ESCs... I'll take note of what you do...
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Old Aug 08, 2012, 08:06 AM
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Austria
Joined Jan 2004
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Originally Posted by HappySundays View Post
LOL... and that's in assembler.
My code (written in C) is currently at about 93% program, 72% data.
I still have a few features I want to put in...
I hope you will make it open ... C is much more user friendly for the "masses" ... Assembler take to much time on study each CPU, each has its own tricky ... etc etc ... too much time consuming for just try to make few experiments.

Tchuss

e_lm_70

ps: It will be nice to have your and KK firmware (that should be released soon) .. to make side by side comparisons ... with the freedom to roll-back to the original firmware
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Old Aug 08, 2012, 08:13 AM
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Originally Posted by HappySundays View Post
Great, I have all the tools but I've never actually tried to reflash ESCs... I'll take note of what you do...
Once you made your own cable ... with the HK BlueSeries ... re-flash is very very easy ...

All you need is to build this 6 pin cable for connect the USBavr to the ESC like the one attached.

I'm not skilled at all using a soldering iron ... and I just own a cheap old soldering iron ... still it took me only 20 minutes for build this ...

Flash is only about remove some wrapping ... plug your connector to the esc by hand (no need to have special holder for it) (the power is provided by the USBavr ... so don't connect a battery) ... and click the write button on the eXtreme Burner software ... in case you hand is not steady enough .. nothing happen .. you will get an error, and you can reflash again

Tchuss

e_lm_70

ps: If you need to connect pin by pin directly to the cheap ... then the level of complexity is higher ... on top ... most of the time you can download the original firmware from the ESC, and you are free to restore with default firmware ... SimonK firmware is not rich in configuration options, like brake on-off, timing, etc etc like default firmware
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Old Aug 08, 2012, 08:52 AM
Who put that tree there?!?!
jabu32's Avatar
Indianapolis, IN
Joined Jan 2011
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Originally Posted by rustymit View Post
Just Callibrated my esc's using the "y" splitter method, flawless, worked realy well. I have 4, 30A Blue series and trying to cal them using the fc is a nightmare, I believe it's because there is so much lag in the binding of spektrum receivers, the esc's enter into their program mode quicker than the Spektrum can react
what is the "y" splitter method? what does "FC" stand for?
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Old Aug 08, 2012, 09:23 AM
Hulk likes flying things
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United States, IN, Kokomo
Joined May 2008
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very obvoius

Quote:
Originally Posted by jabu32 View Post
what is the "y" splitter method? what does "FC" stand for?
You can gang 3 Y connectors (like for ailerons) together and output the same signal to 4 motors. just connect the first Y to the throttle channel to your receiver. then perform throttle cal through your radio.
FC= Flight Controller or "board".
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Old Aug 08, 2012, 09:51 AM
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United States, WA, Olympia
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Calibrating via splitters is the same as calibrating each separately, except it takes slightly less time. Don't sweat buying splitters just to calibrate throttle on the ESCs...
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Old Aug 08, 2012, 09:59 AM
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United States, WA, Olympia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by e_lm_70 View Post
Once you made your own cable ... with the HK BlueSeries ... re-flash is very very easy ...
The 20A blueseries doesn't have the pads in a row, which makes it a bit more difficult. Honestly, the worst part of flashing my ESCs was pulling them out of the quad, cutting the casing, taping back up, and reinstalling. The actual soldering part really wasn't bad (I'm decent at soldering, if a bit shaky in the hands department). I used 6 thin single-strand wires from my old college breadboard kit that just happened to fit perfectly into the holes in the usbavr ribbon cable connectors. A little work with my label printer for all the signal names plus some "helping hands" and I was good to go.

In retrospect a flux pen would likely have made tinning the pads a little easier than just using rosin core solder.
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Old Aug 08, 2012, 10:11 AM
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Old Aug 08, 2012, 10:15 AM
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Austria
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Originally Posted by pbmax View Post
The 20A blueseries doesn't have the pads in a row, which makes it a bit more difficult. Honestly, the worst part of flashing my ESCs was pulling them out of the quad, cutting the casing, taping back up, and reinstalling. The actual soldering part really wasn't bad (I'm decent at soldering, if a bit shaky in the hands department). I used 6 thin single-strand wires from my old college breadboard kit that just happened to fit perfectly into the holes in the usbavr ribbon cable connectors. A little work with my label printer for all the signal names plus some "helping hands" and I was good to go.

In retrospect a flux pen would likely have made tinning the pads a little easier than just using rosin core solder.


You speak about this: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...C_3A_UBEC.html

I order some few weeks ago, and I have some from over 1 years ago ... all are same with the 6 pin in the row ... the 20A is same as 30A ... just use different FET

This is a photo from the 30A, that is exactly as all my 20A :


Tchuss

e_lm_70
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Old Aug 08, 2012, 10:59 AM
Who put that tree there?!?!
jabu32's Avatar
Indianapolis, IN
Joined Jan 2011
416 Posts
so are these

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...C_3A_UBEC.html

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=15205


the esc's of choice?
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Old Aug 08, 2012, 10:59 AM
Have a nice day! Kristjan
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Slovenia, Novo mesto, Šentjernej
Joined Jan 2006
822 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by sg1anubis View Post
I just finished building the micro V6 FPV multicopter. I've got the KK2 flight controller equipped with some FPV gear. I had to make some modifications to the V6 mix in order to improve the yaw control. All of the details of my build and the parts list can be found here:

http://polakiumengineering.org/?p=1589

These are the changes that I made to the V6 mix:

CH1 Rudder: 100
CH2 Rudder: 71
CH3 Rudder: 42
CH4 Rudder: -42
CH5 Rudder: -71
CH6 Rudder: -100

The default settings cause the aircraft to sweep very wide as it yaws. Imagine a point at which the arms intersect to the rear of the frame; with default settings it is as if the aircraft yaws about this point. By modifying the rudder mix the yaw control is improved, but it remains quite slow. This could just be characteristic of all V6 frames. The yaw control might improve once I refine the P and I terms as well as auto-level.
https://www.mikrocontroller.com/inde...da2b8abf5cba42
Try with this.
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Old Aug 08, 2012, 11:00 AM
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Joined Jun 2011
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BLUE series.... BLUE! That thing looks pretty RED to me!

Chris
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Old Aug 08, 2012, 11:09 AM
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Originally Posted by kapteinkuk View Post
Yes, If flash memory corruption is the problem, the new FW will fix it.

Do you have a programmer, and can check if the dead KK2 responds to it?
I have the KK Flashtool set up but I'm not sure how to just read the code and since there's no downloadable code available yet for the KK2.0 I'm not sure how to proceed.
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Old Aug 08, 2012, 11:28 AM
Who put that tree there?!?!
jabu32's Avatar
Indianapolis, IN
Joined Jan 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobepine View Post
BLUE series.... BLUE! That thing looks pretty RED to me!

Chris
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=26497

is this right?

what programmer do i need? is there a pinout diagram? will i really notice a difference from the plush esc's im using now?
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Old Aug 08, 2012, 11:33 AM
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Truglodite's Avatar
Carmichael, CA
Joined Feb 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gkovachi View Post
I have the KK Flashtool set up but I'm not sure how to just read the code and since there's no downloadable code available yet for the KK2.0 I'm not sure how to proceed.
Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but to read the code you should use:

avrdude.exe -p m324pa -c usbasp -U flash:r:kk2stock.hex -U eeprom:r:kk2stock.eep

Kev
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