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Old Jun 19, 2012, 06:00 AM
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Mini-HowTo
Repair a broken Throttle hold switch on the 2801-pro transmitter

So i was working on my helicopter on the bench one day with the TX in my lap and it slid off and broke the throttle hold switch. No way was I going to waste hours of my life trying to contact Walkera about it. I would have had much better luck calling Wow hobbies. Since my Dad and his father used to own a Radio Shack franchise with a electronics repair shop in the back. I decided to just take matters into my own hands. This should be child's play, IF i can find a toggle switch small enough to fit! So i took a trip to my local shack.
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Old Jun 25, 2012, 12:55 PM
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Big Help

I just broke two toggle switches on my walkera 2801 E transmitter last night and was freaking out a little bit as I just purchased it. Was very lucky to find your post on here, was a big help !!! I acidentially flicked my F mode switch on and my Heli went crazy and I some how broke two switches in the process. I broke the F mode toggle switch so I cant even bind to my heli anymore until I fix it.
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Old Jun 26, 2012, 12:42 AM
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Originally Posted by tupac123456789 View Post
I just broke two toggle switches on my walkera 2801 E transmitter last night and was freaking out a little bit as I just purchased it. Was very lucky to find your post on here, was a big help !!! I acidentially flicked my F mode switch on and my Heli went crazy and I some how broke two switches in the process. I broke the F mode toggle switch so I cant even bind to my heli anymore until I fix it.
I'm glad i could help. You might want to start making yourself a mental checklist for preflight. That f mode can really be a hazard to your health (and wallet) if your not careful.

Were you able to repair your toggle switches? The F mode toggle switch is a slightly different type of toggle. It's a triple throw toggle. The guy at radio shack should be able to order you one if they don't have any in stock.
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Old Jul 01, 2012, 04:06 PM
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I have just got the new toggle switches. But my saudering gun won't melt the sauder holding the broken switch on. Any thoughts ?
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Old Jul 01, 2012, 04:22 PM
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Originally Posted by tupac123456789 View Post
I have just got the new toggle switches. But my saudering gun won't melt the sauder holding the broken switch on. Any thoughts ?
Is it just a little soldering iron? It might eventually do the job with full contact. But the problem you will have is keeping it hot enough to get both sides free. It's best to invest a 40w soldering station with adjustable temp. Otherwise you could bring it to a TV repair shop or something and offer the guy a few bucks to do it for you. Maybe even a LHS might be nice enough to help you out.
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Old Jul 01, 2012, 06:56 PM
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The soldering iron I have is a 100watt to a 140watt iron. I held it on the solder for a bit but was afraid i might melt the contorl board.
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Old Jul 01, 2012, 08:49 PM
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The soldering iron I have is a 100watt to a 140watt iron. I held it on the solder for a bit but was afraid i might melt the contorl board.
Well that honestly should work. The board shouldn't melt before the solder. Physics, i don't think, would allow it. Let the iron get hot before you try. Mine did take a bit to do it. 100W might be a bit much. If it's a solder gun used for pluming and non electrical applications. It would be hard to control the temp. But it should still melt the solder regardless before anything else. You can hold your finger on the sides of the toggle and you will feel the temp transfer over. You need to be careful with the NEW switch though so you don't melt it or ruin it from heat.

Otherwise just be very careful and patient. If all else fails you might be able to lightly chip some of the solder away to make it easier to melt. But be careful not to take a contact with it.
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Old Jul 02, 2012, 08:05 AM
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Ok thankyou !! I was just very nervous about melting the control board, then I would really be up the creek.
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Old Aug 27, 2013, 04:33 AM
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Hi there. I'm new to this forum and I am looking to carry out your fix on the WK 2801 pro. I am in the UK and looking for a replacement switch. Do you know what format the switch needs to be? eg. on-on-on, on-none-on, on-off-on....etc
I look forward to hearing from you.
Cheers
Tom
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Old Aug 27, 2013, 05:09 AM
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Originally Posted by rotorgoat View Post
Hi there. I'm new to this forum and I am looking to carry out your fix on the WK 2801 pro. I am in the UK and looking for a replacement switch. Do you know what format the switch needs to be? eg. on-on-on, on-none-on, on-off-on....etc
I look forward to hearing from you.
Cheers
Tom
The switch i broke was a 2 position switch. Sounds like you broke a 3 position switch?

wow hobbies here in the US sells them. Maybe you can find them a little closer to home. http://www.wowhobbies.com/walkeratra...mhandle-2.aspx

I am not actually sure what the format is for the 3 position switch. I think your just looking for a 3 pole, 3 position switch.
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Old Aug 21, 2014, 07:56 PM
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The switch i broke was a 2 position switch. Sounds like you broke a 3 position switch?

wow hobbies here in the US sells them. Maybe you can find them a little closer to home. http://www.wowhobbies.com/walkeratra...mhandle-2.aspx

I am not actually sure what the format is for the 3 position switch. I think your just looking for a 3 pole, 3 position switch.
Thanks for the Radio Shack part number Integrity. TH switch on my Devo 8 broke after my last flight yesterday and the Shack switch worked perfectly. A bit tighter fit than the original switch, but I'll be damned if I was going to pay Wow's $13.95 for the same crappy replacement switch. $3.99 was palatable.
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Old Aug 21, 2014, 09:34 PM
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Originally Posted by OrbitalGolem View Post
Thanks for the Radio Shack part number Integrity. TH switch on my Devo 8 broke after my last flight yesterday and the Shack switch worked perfectly. A bit tighter fit than the original switch, but I'll be damned if I was going to pay Wow's $13.95 for the same crappy replacement switch. $3.99 was palatable.
Glad it worked out for you. Did you have any trouble getting the old one out like i did? In other words, did you have to unsolder anything to get the switch out? I ended up cracking the plastic trying to force the switch out. Which ended up working out well enough. Because i damn sure didn't want to unsolder the pots and things required to move the circuit board that was in my way. I think the devo is a little different?
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Old Aug 21, 2014, 09:57 PM
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Glad it worked out for you. Did you have any trouble getting the old one out like i did? In other words, did you have to unsolder anything to get the switch out? I ended up cracking the plastic trying to force the switch out. Which ended up working out well enough. Because i damn sure didn't want to unsolder the pots and things required to move the circuit board that was in my way. I think the devo is a little different?
Yup - Walkera finally simplified the design by eliminating the circuit boards that the switches were soldered to in the non-Devo models. The wires for the three switches in the upper left corner were wrapped around each other terminating in a single inline connector. Snipped the wires with scissors and after the collar was removed, the switch came right out. The threaded part of the Radio Shack switch is a little wider than the original switch. I had to pry the plastic tabs holding the switch out a bit, and the collar doesn't tighten around the switch as much as I'd want, but it's not moving so I'm happy.

The switch action is much better than the original too. I actually checked the flight logs and saw that I only had 865 flights on the radio. I move the switch once before a flight and once after. Counting maybe an extra 50 flips of the switch for non-flight stuff and that would put the total at around 1780 switch flips. You would think these bloody switches would be rated for at least 10000 flips or more.
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Old Aug 21, 2014, 10:15 PM
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Originally Posted by OrbitalGolem View Post
Yup - Walkera finally simplified the design by eliminating the circuit boards that the switches were soldered to in the non-Devo models. The wires for the three switches in the upper left corner were wrapped around each other terminating in a single inline connector. Snipped the wires with scissors and after the collar was removed, the switch came right out. The threaded part of the Radio Shack switch is a little wider than the original switch. I had to pry the plastic tabs holding the switch out a bit, and the collar doesn't tighten around the switch as much as I'd want, but it's not moving so I'm happy.

The switch action is much better than the original too. I actually checked the flight logs and saw that I only had 865 flights on the radio. I move the switch once before a flight and once after. Counting maybe an extra 50 flips of the switch for non-flight stuff and that would put the total at around 1780 switch flips. You would think these bloody switches would be rated for at least 10000 flips or more.
Not likely, in-fact most of my 2801-pro 3 position switches hardly ever got flipped and they don't function correctly anymore on my oldest one (the one featured here). They work if i use some contact cleaner/lube on them. But otherwise they don't hit all 3 positions and sometimes one position gets stuck on. After cleaner/lube gets sprayed in there. They work okay for a little while. But it's only temporary.
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