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Old Jun 18, 2012, 02:44 AM
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DLE 20 help

Hi all

My setup:

DLE 20
NGK CM 6 plug, gap unchanged from factory, checked at about 0.40mm
Oil and petrol mix as per manual
Carb nipple replaced as first one snapped
Needles not touched
Idle screw not removed or adjusted
Jtec compact pitts style muffler
Hall sensor replaced as first one was had faulty wires. Checked timing from TDC, all good.

This is the first run since carb nipple and hall sensor replaced and with Jtec slimline muffler.

Took quite a while to start but this was due to my kill switch hooked up wrong. Removed the kill switch and started manually as per instructions.
Sounded fine to me, ran her for about 10 minutes varying throttle from low to high. I noticed that the idle was very erratic, wouldnt settle down but I gather this is due to it needing way more running in so wasnt too concerned.Then the idle started to settle, but it kept getting lower and lower with the engine finally quitting. Starting it after became quite a task, it would take, rev quite high and die immediately. This went on for some time until I finally got it running but idling super high, at about 4500 rpm....couldnt get lower. Also, throttle response was not very good at this time. Couldnt start again after this.

Packed up for the day with a sore arm! This is my first gasser so probably doing something wrong! I removed the plug once home and it was very wet. I do have quite long tubing from tank to carb with a bend so will shorten this asap.

Any ideas as to what may be going on?
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Old Jun 18, 2012, 05:32 AM
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Kansas City
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My first thought is the needle valves. Close them then open the suggested number of turns. Try this if you haven't already.
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Old Jun 18, 2012, 05:45 AM
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Thanks Lifer, I haven't touched them from factory settings as the initial start was quite good. (see link

IMG_0060.MOV (0 min 20 sec)
)

Can always give it a try!
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Old Jun 18, 2012, 06:49 AM
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United States, MI, Waterford Charter Township
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Originally Posted by wesjon View Post
Thanks Lifer, I haven't touched them from factory settings as the initial start was quite good. (see link

Can always give it a try!
Not trying to be nasty, but if it was running that good, I doubt you would have taken the trouble to post? The factory settings are usually assumed good enough to start the engine, period. Nothing beyond that! It will always start great if there's a little gas in it to burn. The question will be how long and how well will it run after that?

Lifer is right. You need to go through the entire procedure to set both those needles - for YOUR engine/conditions. Chronic hard starting is usually an indication of the throttle being completely closed and/or low speed needle too lean.

The idle stop screw should be removed as soon as you hook a servo up to the throttle arm. It's only going to screw with your head/get in the way after that.
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Old Jun 18, 2012, 06:54 AM
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Thanks for the reply. I will definitely reset the needles and give it a go. Will also remove the stop screw.
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Old Jun 18, 2012, 05:48 PM
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+1 on ahicks advice. Been there done that. Learned to make it purr by listening to others who have been there too.
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Old Jun 18, 2012, 06:54 PM
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Better check that plug. The factory does not supply an NGK CM-6. Unless you bought if from someone like Valley View where they actually swap out the plug for an NGK.
Pete
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Old Jun 18, 2012, 09:00 PM
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Originally Posted by wesjon View Post
I noticed that the idle was very erratic, wouldnt settle down ..... Then the idle started to settle, but it kept getting lower and lower with the engine finally quitting.
Low needle too lean. You ran it lean till it got hot and stopped. Richen the low end and start it up. You cant do that too many times to a gas engine and getaway with it.
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Old Jun 19, 2012, 06:24 PM
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similar to mine

Nothing bad about DLE however the new out of the box engines sometimes have a lot of machining "crap" and residue that collects in the carb. Refer to your instructions and clean out main fuel filter basket. I would bet that you have have residue in the filters restricting fuel flow. Then screw needles in all the way and back out to proper settings. On my DLE 30 the needles were set up wrong. My engine was acting just like yours until I cleaned it out and broke it in. The new carbs are also hard to prime, however once you get the flapper valve wet it becomes easier to restart. Good Luck
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Old Jun 24, 2012, 02:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wesjon View Post

Carb nipple replaced as first one snapped
How did you replace the carb nipple?
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Old Jun 24, 2012, 03:03 PM
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Hey

I gripped the carb nipple with pliers and pulled it out. Not easy. The black outer plastic broke off first, then it was easier to grip on the brass section. It takes a lot of pulling. The new one was inserted by light tapping to get it all the way in as it is a very tight fit.

Havent had time to run the engine, but I am going to clean out the carb filter and retune the needles. Thanks for all the advice, I will let you know what happens!
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Old Jun 24, 2012, 05:24 PM
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sounds like its a little lean on the low speed needle. TAke the advice to go back to factory settings and re-tune
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Old Jun 25, 2012, 02:58 AM
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Hi TimBle, good to see a fellow South African here!

I reset the needles to the factory recommended of 1.1 and 1.5 turns.

- Opened choke, flipped a few times until it popped.
-Closed choke, started after 2 or 3 flips, revved high and died.

The above happened over and over. Couldnt get it to keep running. I tried opening the low speed needle but still the same issue.

Since then I have cleaned out the carb filter as suggested. Found a bit of debris there but had to look very close to even see it...Will try starting again tonight and see if that helps. Fuel is definitely getting in during the choking process but seems to be starved after that with no response to opening the low end needle.
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Old Jun 25, 2012, 01:35 PM
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Update.

Got it started today! The carb filter clean must have helped. I also noticed that the fuel tank filler tubing had touched the exhaust during the very first run and had melted a bit, could have been an air leak here....

Anyway, it ran! The idle was quite high but I do still have the idle screw in which I will remove and the low needle was rich. All starts were very easy though. Did some heat cycling and will set up the needles next!

Thanks for the help guys, I will let you know how I get on.
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Old Jun 25, 2012, 08:51 PM
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Did some heat cycling and will set up the needles next!
In the future with a new gas engine, start it, set the needles, THEN fly it. Heat cycling isn't recommended for gas engines (DLE). Start them, tune the needles, and fly it easy for the first gal or so.

Same for a "break in" prop. Prop it for break-in with the prop your going to fly it with. Just take it easy at first. Flying it helps keep it cool. You would think that big old prop sitting in front would keep it plenty cool on the bench, but it runs cooler in the air.

Both recommendations are straight from Jody at Valley View Hobby's. No one, I mean NO ONE knows more about DLE engines than Jody.

Scott
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