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Old Sep 11, 2012, 11:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dheerajjuneja View Post
Hi

I am placing an order for the D02s parts, however you have mentioned in the last line of parts:
3 ball joints to replace the ones your current servo. Where can we get this? I mean on jade or MM, they don't have ball joints listed in parts? Any compatible model etc?

You can get them off of the D02S tail rocker (x3) or with the D02S servos.

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Old Sep 21, 2012, 09:32 PM
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Sheer Pin - 22 AWG Copper solid conductor

On the D05CS-XTR/Sport the aluminum sheer pin has been holding up great and working as intended. However on my V120D02S there is a different problem. The 15,500kv Turbo Ace 215 motor has so much torque and head speed that fast climb outs or pitch pumps would just sheer the aluminum pin in mid flight. I was using the method of bending the pin in opposite directions to secure it. I have not taken any pictures of the D05CS with the copper pin yet, but it's not really needed, is it?


Anyway, if you have the 215 motor or HP08-S motor installed you will want to switch to the copper sheer pin. In either case i think the copper is the superior pin, but i'm sure the aluminum will also be perfect for the stock motor, and even the Extreme spin 16,300kv motor. Which does not compete with the other two in the area of torque, but is still an upgrade just the same. Here are the pictures from when i did the change on my D02S.
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Old Sep 21, 2012, 09:48 PM
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V120D05CS08-Pro - HP08-S 16,500kv motor upgrade

This motor could possibly rival the Turbo Ace 215 motor. I'm positive that the 215 motor is actually higher than 15,500kv that is claimed. But this HP08-S might actually be just as good, if not better. I have a laser tachometer on order, so later i will probably do some rotor taching to see what i'm getting. Right now using the 15T pinion. The tail can still kick if you are too aggressive, or with the wrong pitch curve setup. But over all, for my style of what I would call intermediate 3D. Which is somewhat stressful on the heli. This HP08-S is basically keeping up perfectly with my V120D02S using the 215 motor. Which, is pretty impressive.

Note that i did not solder the motor wires directly to my ESC. The Walkera 20A esc is enough to run this motor, even at a high throttle using a 15T pinion. But it does get pretty hot, so the outside air temp should be minded. I would like to think that the Oversky 10A or 12A (preferably 12A to give things some head room) would run the motor better and run cooler themself. Being that they are made by the same mfg. Oversky.

Here is the first 2 flights with the HP08-S 16,500kv, edited together. The battery died on the camera near the end of the second flight. But there is some good 3D going on a very windy day. (again)

V120D05CS08-Pro - First two flights with HP08-S motor. (6 min 30 sec)
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Old Oct 21, 2012, 02:00 AM
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KDBB 130X Main Blade upgrade - Big Improvement!



Okay, so. I have been flying the V120D05CS08 using the 130X main blades! These are great! Very light and great response. They allow for great pitch response and higher head speeds. Using the HP08-S 16,500kv motor i had to further dampen my pitch curve in the center.

My current 2801-pro pitch curve for ST-1 & ST-2 are about the same. If your using the stock motor or a weaker upgrade motor like the extreme spin 16,300kv you may not need to change anything. You should play with it to get it how you like depending on your individual heli. These settings are just to show the general idea. My pitch curve is as follows for stunt modes.

20 - 40 - 50 - 60 - 80

This setting will further dampen the center of the pitch control, similar to EXPO. It was a necessary change because pitch and cyclic controls were too sensitive. Alternatively you could also move the ball linkages on the servo horns closer to the servo. This is reducing mechanical gain, i just hate fussing with the little slotted ball linkages. So instead i did a "digital gain" reduction using the pitch curve above.

Here is a video of two flights using these white blades. The yellow ones are on my D02S and are working out nicely as well.

V120D05CS08 - Serious D02S & 130X Competitor (8 min 19 sec)
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Old Jan 28, 2013, 05:01 PM
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Latest Flight videos - 01-28-13

Latest Flight videos - 01-28-13



V120D05 airframe
Stock ESC, using motor pins to connect, not soldered.
3 Axis Walkera 2622V (2801-pro version from D02S)
HP08-S, 16,500kv motor.
Custom fit & upgraded rotor head, main & feathering shaft from D02S
KDBB 130X main blades
Turnigy 0.95 Ah, 25C batteries


V120D05CS08 - 3D stress test with Turnigy packs #1 (7 min 21 sec)


V120D05CS08 - 3D stress test with Turnigy packs #2 (6 min 43 sec)
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Old Feb 15, 2014, 10:36 AM
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Upgrade to 3S (Basic version with Xtreme skids)

Upgrade to 3S (Basic version with Xtreme skids)

My Lynx EOX 1102, 3S motor and Castle Talon 15 arrived yesterday. So i went ahead with installing the plugs and setting everything up. I used the Xtreme skids for now. But i have a CF add-on frame and skid set coming to replace them. However, it will be weeks before it arrives and I'm simply not that patient, so here is the basic installation of the 3S equipment using the Xtreme skid set.




The motor came with some 0.4m pinions for the 130X or V120D02S and some stickers. To my surprise the Castle ESC didn't come with any sticker sheets for once. Usually they always have a sticker sheet in the more expensive ESCs i have bought.

Side-by-side, the Castle ESC has a smaller footprint than the stock ESC. Which should make mounting a lot easier.




Below you can see the weight comparisons between the ESCs. After cutting off the excess wires and soldering on all the plugs. The new ESC only came out to 1.6g more than the stock ESC. Probably mostly due to needing to keep the standard throttle RX plug and shrink wrapping needed for the Castle Link programmer. For now, i will be powering my RX and servos with the default BEC output from the ESC. Which is 5.5v. It's a little hot, but test hovering showed little issue. So I will continue to test and see if anything fries for the time being.






Below you can see the weight comparisons between the motors. After installing the pinion and 2mm bullet plugs on the EOX 3S motor, it came out to weigh 4.1g more than the stock motor. You can see the longer shaft on the EOX motor and overall longer bell too.






The images below show the Talon 15's throttle wire setup. I had to leave the standard RX plug there on a short lead and tap off of that with the Walkera style plug & wire i salvaged off of the stock ESC.







As far as pressing the pinion on the shaft goes. There is a bevel edge which prevents the pinion from going all the way down the shaft. This beveled edge also makes it so that the pinion doesn't line up with the main gear very well. But the pinion needs to be pressed all the way down to the beveled edge to get the pinion lined up nicely.




Since the pinion doesn't line up how i like and the shaft is longer on this new motor. I decided that using the CF frame shim would work out the best for mounting hardware.




Below you can see the EOX motor mounted with the CF shim. I'm just a little concerned about it rubbing the canopy.




Here you can see how the pinion lines up with the main gear with the shim installed. The shim also limits how far the motor shaft protrudes down toward the battery.




I mounted the ESC under the RX shelf. Originally i cut off just the top part of the Xtreme skid's battery tray so that i could tape the ESC directly to the bottom of the RX shelf. This left a frame from the battery tray that protected the ESC and would have held the motor wires in place under the RX tray. However, i cut off the rest of the battery tray thinking i was just saving weight. In reality i probably only shaved a gram or two and now have nothing to protect the ESC or hold the canopy back. Not to mention that this is being done on my already tail heavy D05. So i probably could have used an extra gram or two in the nose.






Since i cut the Xtreme skid's battery tray out. I had to use a rubber band to hold the motor wires under the RX tray and away from the main gear. The rubber band also helps to secure the RX/gyro.

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Last edited by IntegrityHndywrk; Feb 15, 2014 at 10:58 AM.
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Old Feb 17, 2014, 06:11 PM
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V120 3S battery mounting with Xtreme skids

V120 3S battery mounting with Xtreme skids




For the time being, to mount my 3S packs on my V120 I have been using the Xtreme upgrade skid set. The only problem is that the pack can't go any farther forward than the front skid strut. So CG isn't highly adjustable. Another problem was the O-rings that Xtreme supplies didn't seem secure enough for me. So i cut some Gaui cable touch fasteners in half and weaved it though the CF plate. This method seems to be working well so far. Though i have not really had a chance to fly the heli in 3D yet.







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Old Mar 02, 2014, 10:26 AM
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D05 Custom upgrade (silver) tail boom

D05 Custom upgrade (silver) tail boom


While working on converting my D05 to a 3S machine. I ended up landing it hard during simple hover testing and the tail boom snapped right at the frame (again). Right where the slot is cut in the boom for the frame mounting. I assume since i removed the tail boom support rods, there is even more stress put on that section of the boom. So hopefully some stronger metal will help this out and still be lighter than with the support rods attached. Though i may just put the supports back on even though they shave a gram or two.

It's been taking awhile to get this conversion done and i have become impatient and wanted to fly the thing now that i basically had it all but ready for real flights on 3S. So this mod was actually born out of my impatience more than anything. However, it should be a durability improvement over the stock boom, as the tube i am using is the same outside diameter, but the aluminum is thicker walled. Unfortunately i forgot to weigh the new silver boom before installing it to compare the two. But i'm sure it weighs a tiny bit more.

The materials i used to cut a custom tail boom for my V120D05 was a set of skid pipes from my Gaui X5 (or X4) cut to size and then I cut a slot for the frame with my Dremel.
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Old Mar 09, 2014, 09:43 PM
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Crash repair - Main gear hub & front RX tray frame

Crash repair - Main gear hub & front RX tray frame



Okay, so i had a great day flying my custom little heli on Friday and Saturday. It was flying really nice on Saturday when the sun came out. Then all of a sudden it spun the tail out and i crashed. The resulting damage was a broke airframe where the RX shelf connects to the main frame. Also the section of the main gear that the pin goes through exploded since the hole for the main shaft had to be drilled bigger. There isn't much material left there. So i shaved the bottom smooth as i could with a razor blade and came up with a way to still use the main gear since the teeth are good.


First, here are the videos. First the good flight, then the crash:

140 Belt - Flight 11 (4 min 54 sec)


140 Belt - Flight 12 - Crash (0 min 48 sec)




Now, below in the pictures you can see the damages and how i fixed it using a small section of an old D05 tail boom and a small sheet of CF, some baking soda and thin CA glue.
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Old Mar 11, 2014, 11:48 PM
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Looks great man! How are you liking this setup? I have the same motor/gyro/esc but based around a 130x airframe. I'm really liking the idea of the belt driven tail since I'm having a headache with my TT setup currently . What do you think of the GY280Rx? Most I've gotten to do with mine some far is test hover, still some tuning to do.
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Old Mar 12, 2014, 08:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WSNTME View Post
Looks great man! How are you liking this setup? I have the same motor/gyro/esc but based around a 130x airframe. I'm really liking the idea of the belt driven tail since I'm having a headache with my TT setup currently . What do you think of the GY280Rx? Most I've gotten to do with mine some far is test hover, still some tuning to do.
The gyro is great. The heli is pretty good. But the belt tail on this heli has a slow tail ratio. Like 2.5:1. So the tail doesn't hold very well if you pump the collective very rapidly. It flies fine for normal flight and basic 3D. But if you get to wild on the collective you will likely blow the tail out. The last two times i crashed was because the tail kicked out on me. Otherwise, i haven't crashed the heli since installing these upgrades. But if i'm being honest. I have been thinking about switching to a D02S frame and using a TT tail. Probably the Lynx 150mm tail boom and blades too. They will just hold better for heavy 3D and i'll get additional main rotor float out of it too.

I have recently upped my pinion size from 15T to 17T and increased my governed HS to 6250 rpm. But i haven't had a chance to test it yet. In theory, if the heli doesn't vibrate like crazy or something. The additional HS should increase the tail speed and HOPEFULLY lock the tail down better.
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Old Mar 13, 2014, 11:43 PM
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V120 CF upgrade airframe add on

V120 CF upgrade airframe add on


As part of my custom 3S build i decided to try the CF add on frame sold at oomodel. This is not a whole frame, but rather a add on section that adds a whole lot of real estate to the heli. Unfortunately, I was not able to directly fit my big 3S packs inside this frame. But 2S packs might fit in this frame a little better and have some room to adjust CG.


There were no instructions included. So there was some guess work involved with putting it together. Also i needed a small file to make some of the CF parts fit right. But once it was together it is a pretty cool add on for custom builds with the V120 series frame.
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Old Mar 14, 2014, 12:05 AM
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M120D01 Skids - Weight Shaving

M120D01 Skids - Weight Shaving


The new add on frame I installed uses the M120 skids. But the metal pipes on them add a good bit of weight. I was going to use CF to replace them. But i found that the little plastic tube that comes in the package with Trex 250 skids fit tightly in the M120 skids. So i used a lighter to heat the plastic tubes and shape them like the metal ones. Then i melted the tips together to make them look rounded.
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Old Mar 14, 2014, 12:42 AM
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Mounting GY280 and Talon 15 in V120 upgrade frame

Mounting GY280 and Talon 15 in V120 upgrade frame



When I first installed the GY280 in the RX shelf on the nose of my V120. The antenna wire became frayed at the base from me putting the canopy on and taking it off all the time while working on the heli, etc. It actually became so bad that it was just flopping around by a single strand and i had to take the antenna off and fix it.

So, since i had to re-attach the antenna, I pointed it out of the side of the unit and cut a spot in the jacket to hold it there. Then i closed up both ends of the gyro with some electrical tape to keep sand out and also to help keep the antenna in place.

I mounted my custom Talon 15 under the GY280, on the bottom of the CF panel. There is a good little strip of CF to put a tie wrap around. Which i ended up having to remove some of the 3m tape for the gyro to fit.
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Old Mar 14, 2014, 01:40 AM
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3S CF Battery Tray Mod for V120 upgrade frame

3S CF Battery Tray Mod for V120 upgrade frame


Since the upgrade CF frame didn't have room for a 3S battery. I decided to come up with a different mounting method.


The first part of this mod was done for me when the RX shelf broke off in a crash. So with that out of the way, i have all kinds of room for a battery in the nose.

The mod is pretty straight forward. I cut a piece of CF off one of my 700's broken blades. The CF is probably less than 0.5mm thick. I then cut some slits in it for battery straps and also to use to tie it down to the airframe with a tie wrap.
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Last edited by IntegrityHndywrk; Mar 14, 2014 at 01:52 AM.
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