I went to my local Hobby Town USA and got the following:

-Slow Stick
-Hitec Neon SS 3ch rx/tx w/ 2 HS-55 micro servos
-E-Flite 10A speed control
-GWS 7.2v/350mAh 6 cell
-HECELL 8.4v/1100mAh 7 cell
-2x KAN 1050's 8.4v
-Duratrax IntelliPeak charger
-Great Planes Triton

i think that's it. spend around 350 i suppose and im pretty excited. it's mostly assembled. how do you think this setup will do?

questions coming soon..

Sounds like a pretty good setup. I've always flown on 8 cells (9.6v), though I know the plane is designed to fly on 6, so your 7.2 pack should be fine. In the future, I would get 7- or 8- cell packs, as I've heard the power difference is significant. Don't forget to check out the Slow Stick tips thread over in the ParkFlyer forum. Lots of good stuff there to help with construction.

Willie,

Congrats on your purchase. You'll love the Slowstick! I think you'll be a lot more satisfied with the 1100mah battery; the 350mah flight times will leave you wanting. Peruse the Slowstick threads and you'll do fine. Remember, altitude is your friend .

Andy

Willie:

Make sure the Duratrax can safely charge your pack(s) before you open the box. I bought a similar model (actually the same one, I think) last year only to discover it was limited to handle large RC car packs/cells.

The 7.2V 350mah pack should prove about worthless in the SS on the stock 300C or 350C motor. I'd consider returning it!

Be wary of what HT USA sells you for electric planes. The shops I've visited (and read of) generally specialize in RC car gear.

Keep us posted on how things go and welcome to the Slow Stick Squad! Fire away with your questions!

daveWCO

Originally posted by Willie Levi
I went to my local Hobby Town USA and got the following:

-Slow Stick
-Hitec Neon SS 3ch rx/tx w/ 2 HS-55 micro servos
-E-Flite 10A speed control
-GWS 7.2v/350mah
-another battery (1100mah) im not sure about it since the employee is gonna solder an end on it for me - i know it's purple though
-Duratrax IntelliPeak charger

i think that's it. spend around 350 i suppose and im pretty excited. it's mostly assembled. how do you think this setup will do?

questions coming soon..

Find yourself a 5/16" balsa stick and insert it into the tube for increased strength. I bent the #$%@ out of my SS fuelage my first time out, others have had the same experience.

Whatever you do, don't maiden when there is any hint of a breeze. It will make your maiden much more difficult.

Buy some extra props and take them with you when you go fly. I would buy 2 or 3 extra props. I've found you can bust'em up and then glue'em back together with CA and epoxy.

Have fun!!!!!

Some tidbits fresh from my fist SS build, or any build.
(that's known as a 'dis-claimer')

Throw away the GWS glue tube, ...or save it for projects that don't go in the air.
(Use foam friendly thick CA, and 5/30 min. epoxy, it cost a bit, you'll use it ALL up before your 'hobby' gets very far along...like repairs!)

Don't use GWS 'clear tape' strips that are on the 'decal sheet'.
(use quality clear packing tape)

Don't cut your tail, ignore that part. (page 7)
(save the black plastic part though, especially since you probably won't do the 5/16" square balsa fuse mod mentioned later.)

Spend time to reinforce your wing WELL. Install the wing support rods in place, and 'tack' with the CA a few spots to hold in place.
Come back with the epoxy, use it liberally, be as neat as you can but don't worry 'bout it. Wrap it all up with the clear tape. (Doing this properly will determine the life of your wing)

When you slide on the black 'servo brackets', orient them so that the little bitty holes you can barely see, are facing each other to mount your HS-55's. (at least my HS-81MG's were like that)

DO the 5/16" square balsa down the fuse rod as suggested in prev. post. It cost like .79 cents LHS. As you slide it in, coat it with epoxy. This can/will save you a lot of heartache. MANY SS's are destroyed with a bent fuse stick. (Maybe later SS builds you will feel you can do without it.)

On the bottom-side of your wing, on the first full 'rib' from center, mark a short line at 4 1/8" parallel w/ the wing LE. This will be your CG point, you will refer to it VERY often at the end of your build, and forever thereafter. (If you have a 'hot-melt' glue gun, put a tiny 'dot' there so you can just feel it.)

Use BOTH double-sided tape and CA/epoxy to mount your tail-feathers to the fuse stick. Use the screw and white reinforcement piece also after that.

Don't glue your grey motor/GB housing on the front end of the fuse stick. AT LEAST until you are completely through with the build, and I wouldn't do it then. Use a very small screw from the side.

If your using that 1,100 mAh batt, ignore GWS estimates for where your front wing mount bracket should be. Start it around 6 1/2" from the front of the fuse stick. Everything will be moved/adjusted as you end the build, and seek your proper CG. (the 4 1/8" mark)

Now that I've got you completely confused, confounded, bewildered, undecided, and generally ready to throw in the towel...let these guys that know what they're doing help you get it all straight!

GOODLUCK!
bubba
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
P.S. Here's a REAL good tip for you! On this thread:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...hreadid=122951
...post #'s 162-170 have clear, close-up, detailed photos of a completed Slow Stick by the man himself...Boomerace.

Originally posted by bubbadice
Some tidbits fresh from my fist SS build, or any build.
(that's known as a 'dis-claimer')

Throw away the GWS glue tube, ...or save it for projects that don't go in the air.
(Use foam friendly thick CA, and 5/30 min. epoxy, it cost a bit, you'll use it ALL up before your 'hobby' gets very far along...like repairs!)

Don't use GWS 'clear tape' strips that are on the 'decal sheet'.
(use quality clear packing tape)

Don't cut your tail, ignore that part. (page 7)
(save the black plastic part though, especially since you probably won't do the 5/16" square balsa fuse mod mentioned later.)

Spend time to reinforce your wing WELL. Install the wing support rods in place, and 'tack' with the CA a few spots to hold in place.
Come back with the epoxy, use it liberally, be as neat as you can but don't worry 'bout it. Wrap it all up with the clear tape. (Doing this properly will determine the life of your wing)

When you slide on the black 'servo brackets', orient them so that the little bitty holes you can barely see, are facing each other to mount your HS-55's. (at least my HS-81MG's were like that)

DO the 5/16" square balsa down the fuse rod as suggested in prev. post. It cost like .79 cents LHS. As you slide it in, coat it with epoxy. This can/will save you a lot of heartache. MANY SS's are destroyed with a bent fuse stick. (Maybe later SS builds you will feel you can do without it.)

On the bottom-side of your wing, on the first full 'rib' from center, mark a short line at 4 1/8" parallel w/ the wing LE. This will be your CG point, you will refer to it VERY often at the end of your build, and forever thereafter. (If you have a 'hot-melt' glue gun, put a tiny 'dot' there so you can just feel it.)

Use BOTH double-sided tape and CA/epoxy to mount your tail-feathers to the fuse stick. Use the screw and white reinforcement piece also after that.

Don't glue your grey motor/GB housing on the front end of the fuse stick. AT LEAST until you are completely through with the build, and I wouldn't do it then. Use a very small screw from the side.

If your using that 1,100 mAh batt, ignore GWS estimates for where your front wing mount bracket should be. Start it around 6 1/2" from the front of the fuse stick. Everything will be moved/adjusted as you end the build, and seek your proper CG. (the 4 1/8" mark)

Now that I've got you completely confused, confounded, bewildered, undecided, and generally ready to throw in the towel...let these guys that know what they're doing help you get it all straight!

GOODLUCK!
bubba
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
P.S. Here's a REAL good tip for you! On this thread:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...hreadid=122951
...post #'s 162-170 have clear, close-up, detailed photos of a completed Slow Stick by the man himself...Boomerace.

thank you all for the comments. last night i gave it some throttle with a battery hooked up and it started taking off but i grabbed it. done that twice and now i'm working without the engine on it

everything is reversed - UP on the stick makes the ELEVATOR go DOWN etc... how can i change this?

the balsa won't add too much weight? that sounds like a good idea. maybe i'll buy it today

im gonna get some packing tape or maybe red "zagi" covering tape from my LHS, is this any good? i need to reinforce quite a bit as the clear tape provided in the kit needs some backup.

i put one of the big wing decals on the back of my geo metro hatchback so i've only got one for the wing

more to come..

EDIT: i haven't got to the CG part since i've just now got it mounted i haven't figured how to mount the battery yet. the instructions show the RECIEVER on top right under the wing. my HFS-04MG reciever is too big for that so it's stuck under. the battery might fit on top but it would be easier to change at the field under. how do most people do it? rubber bands? velcro?

EDIT2: i just got back from my LHS and am about to put this 5/16" piece of wood in. it's perfect sized, just about 6" longer than the aluminum. should i also put 2 little screws (from the SS kit) in the wood for support? and should i used the GWS glue?

i also got a roll of 2" filament packing tape and red zagi covering tape (is this stuff strong?) i was going to cover a bunch of the foam next. any specific way should i go about this? thanks!

Willie:

To reverse servo direction, I believe you must remove the back cover first. You should find a few removable plugs and channel dials. Rotate the appropriate dials (ch1 and 2) 180deg and the servos should reverse.

I use velcro and/or tape to hold the battery pack to the fuse. Those velcro strap thingies Bubba is using look pretty neat, though!

daveWCO

Originally posted by Willie Levi
thank you all for the comments. last night i gave it some throttle with a battery hooked up and it started taking off but i grabbed it. done that twice and now i'm working without the engine on it
Leave motor un-plugged unless you're testing it.

everything is reversed - UP on the stick makes the ELEVATOR go DOWN etc... how can i change this?

Sounds about right to me? What am I missing here? You're saying you push up on the stick, the elevator goes down. That would be right.

the balsa won't add too much weight? that sounds like a good idea. maybe i'll buy it today
Trust me, the balsa might save you! If that little bit of weight it adds bothers you, it won't bother you as much as looking at your Slow Stick with a 'broken back'.

im gonna get some packing tape or maybe red "zagi" covering tape from my LHS, is this any good? i need to reinforce quite a bit as the clear tape provided in the kit needs some backup.
That kit tape is about only good for 'back-up'. Remove any you can without hurting anything, and use the better stuff. Going over the bad tape doesn't do much for it.

i put one of the big wing decals on the back of my geo metro hatchback so i've only got one for the wing.
You may have already come up with an ezone first! That ought to get a few looks. Are you German by any chance? If not, do you mind if some people think you are? If your Metro is red, you may get a few honks from fellow Slow Stick owners!


more to come..

EDIT: i haven't got to the CG part since i've just now got it mounted i haven't figured how to mount the battery yet. the instructions show the RECIEVER on top right under the wing. my HFS-04MG reciever is too big for that so it's stuck under. the battery might fit on top but it would be easier to change at the field under. how do most people do it? rubber bands? velcro?
Stick the Rx on the side w/ velcro. Flush w/ the bottom of the fuse stick. You can get a pack of Velcro from a 'Home Depot' type store.

EDIT2: i just got back from my LHS and am about to put this 5/16" piece of wood in. it's perfect sized, just about 6" longer than the aluminum. should i also put 2 little screws (from the SS kit) in the wood for support? and should i used the GWS glue?
I think maybe you've found a good place to use that GWS glue. If you have epoxy, use that. Clean up epoxy with 'rubbing alcohol'. NO screws in the wood. Glue/epoxy will hold it after it sets up.

i also got a roll of 2" filament packing tape and red zagi covering tape (is this stuff strong?) i was going to cover a bunch of the foam next. any specific way should i go about this? thanks!

That filament tape is for limited use. You just want totally clear packing tape. Don't really need to cover any foam, not sure what you mean? You want to make the bottom of the wing red also?
Just pretty much use the clear tape where they show, and add other as you go along repairing. I guess you could reinforce the tail surfaces going in if you wanted. Wing tips also maybe.
Goodluck, don't hesitate to get first hand help from your Hobby Shop.
bubba

**everything is reversed - UP on the stick makes the ELEVATOR go DOWN etc... how can i change this?**

**Sounds about right to me? What am I missing here? You're saying you push up on the stick, the elevator goes down. That would be right.**

Dang, I missed that! Good eye, Bubba.

Dave

i covered the edges with packing tape. all the way around and 4 lines of filament tape around the wing and one in the middle. then i covered all that with the red (which is a perfect match). i also covered the entire underside so it's red and it looks awesome! maybe i can get some pictures of everything tomarrow

im looking at the inside of my transmitter and i see 2 orange knobs that turn 180 degrees, but one is at 90 and the other is at 45 degrees and adjusting them makes it stop responding to input

there are 5 metal 'cubes' with circles in the top that look like they could be adjusted with a flat-head.. i dont wanna mess with them though

im just about 100% ready for it's maiden flight except the reversed servos and my center of gravity - [b]how do i do this? do i balance on the aluminum OR on the underside of the wing?

what did you use to adhere the plastic atatchments for the servo wire? does that make sense? mine seem a little wobbly

Originally posted by daveWCO
**everything is reversed - UP on the stick makes the ELEVATOR go DOWN etc... how can i change this?**

**Sounds about right to me? What am I missing here? You're saying you push up on the stick, the elevator goes down. That would be right.**

Dang, I missed that! Good eye, Bubba.

Dave

oops, i stated it wrong *i think*

heh, i just checked it again to make sure. when i push FORWARD on the STICK, it brings the ELEVATOR UP and would make the plane go UP..

don't you guys use "pull back on the stick to climb" ?

Willie:

Ok. Now your elevator servo is backwards! Yeah, it's down on the stick to make the plane rise (down stick = up elevator). Right rudder = move stick to right, when observing from the rear of the plane.

I read the Neon servo reverse directions on the Hitec website. Maybe you have a different Neon model? Any Neon owners out there?

For determing CG, use the wing. I used 6 minute epoxy to glue the control horns to the control surfaces (on both sides of the control horns). I'm sure foam safe CA would work just fine, as well.

Dave

i just checked the hitec website and am now reading through the appropriate part of the PDF manual that i did not get with my transmitter

thanks. im gonna get going on the center of gravity next and it'll be ready to take to the sky!


EDIT: servos correct and 100% operational. the rudder seems a little weak though (only turning about 15-20 degrees in each direction).

Originally posted by Willie Levi


EDIT: servos correct and 100% operational. the rudder seems a little weak though (only turning about 15-20 degrees in each direction).

Willie:

Cool!

If you want more throw on the rudder, move the control rod end to a control horn hole closer to the rudder (move it inward). And/or, move the servo end of the control rod to the outer end of the servo arm. That should give you plenty of rudder throw!

Personally, I like max throws on the Slow Stick. Of course, others might think it's a bad idea, esp. on the first flight.... Be gentle on the sticks if you increase the throws!

Keep us posted!

Dave

Originally posted by Willie Levi
i just checked the hitec website and am now reading through the appropriate part of the PDF manual that i did not get with my transmitter

thanks. im gonna get going on the center of gravity next and it'll be ready to take to the sky!

what did you use to adhere the plastic atatchments for the servo wire? does that make sense? mine seem a little wobbly. If you 'clicked' the retainer down all the way, there shouldn't be any slack yet. But dab epoxy or CA around the base on both sides anyway.
Do you mean the wire connection to the servo arm, or to the control horn arm on the rudder? The end of the wire that already is bent into a 'Z' shape, goes into the closest hole on the rudders plastic control horn. Then with your servo arm and rudder centered, mark where the wire hits it, and duplicate that 'Z' bend. Power the servos to make sure they are where they will be when powered when you center them.

EDIT: servos correct and 100% operational. the rudder seems a little weak though (only turning about 15-20 degrees in each direction).

That wouldn't be bad for a maiden flight. Try to get a little more than 15% if that is all you've got!
See if your wire is flexing. See if your wire is in the furtherest outside holes on the servo arm and innermost on the rudder control horn. Compare servo arm movement, see if both move the same amount. Make sure where your control horn is mounted into the rudder doesn't have any 'play' in it.

When you balance the plane at the 4 1/8" mark under the wing, err in the 'nose heavy' direction. Do not err in the 'tail-heavy' direction.

Once you get it air-borne into the wind, go straight ahead until you get it up in the air a bit, then start learning how well it will turn. Just turning the motor off, it should float like a puff of cotton, falling slowly and gracefully.
Goodluck, let us know how it goes, and if you have any further questions.
bubba