I decided to jump on the canopy band wagon. I really wanted something clear so that I can monitor the arming LED, but I dont have a lot of choices.

I ended up using the top dispenser lid from a bottle of wet wipes. I cut out the center with a X-acto blade. I like it because I can pop the top so see the board and receiver LED.

I dont have a drill so I will stop tomorrow and hopefully borrow a bit and get it mounted.

Thanks chris that video helped a lot

I got more assembled today but I seem to be having LED issues. I only used a 2 cell 450 mAh battery and only 1 of my legs is lighting up...and on that leg the 3 LED are all different intensity. The one closest to the board is very dim and middle is brighter (but not where it should be) and the one near the motor harldy has any output. I am charging my only battey right now (it was very low) and will edit this post when I get more info.

Update - Battery was too low (it was new never used/charged) and there is contact problems between the main power board and each leg. I used a pointed probe and was able to make each leg light up by poking it into the hole and then touching the side and the center (if you know what I mean). I think there was flux (or other contamination) not allowing a good contact

Other question: Is there a way to read the sketch that is already loaded into the board? I am not going to change anything, I just want to see what Terri has turned on or "//defined" in the Arduino. That way if I update the version I am sure to use the same //defined sensors.

Thanks,

John

John -

Sounds like a pack that's very low on charge or more likely bad contacts at the lower center board to legs connection. On one leg, I had to add a teeny blob of solder to the pad on the leg so it would make better contact with the hole when everything was screwed together. If that happens to be your issue, be careful not to add too much solder otherwise it might cause misalignment.

Not possible to read the existing sketch. You can ask Terri for the sketch or use the definitions in tc3wins' video.

- Felix

Originally Posted by bobepine

... Wasp, you asked about the difference between the KK board and the MWC. Here's a couple videos for comparison sake...

Chris,

Glad to hear you are OK. Hope the rest of Taiwan also recovers soon.

Your quads are great. Thanks for the videos.

I've just put the Crius board on my plywood HK quad. My quad is totally out of balance if the level mode is switched off. It means more work and more parts. BTW, I came across this 250 frame with buildin WMC and LEDs.

http://www.goodluckbuy.com/x250-mini...assembled.html

That properly would be a better fit for the 2800kV motors came with my 445 plywood frame.

Multicopter is more addictive than I thought...

Best.

Originally Posted by Chevycruizer

...Other question: Is there a way to read the sketch that is already loaded into the board?

John,

What loaded onto the board is assembler code and not the sketch. A lot of defines affect the code directly, hence the flash and not the EEPROM. A simple answer would be no easy way.

I don't think the arduino boot loader supports reading back too.

If you go through an ISP (the programmer that you use for flashing KK board), you probably would be able read the flash and eeprom (or verify them against your hex file). I don't think MWC set the fuses to prevent reading.

What you may do is to try different settings in config.h, compile the sketch and verify the resulting hex against the one on your board. The hex file is hidding in /tmp if you use linux.

If the HW options weren't set correctly, most likely your board won't work. What are you looking for?

Good luck.

Originally Posted by GoFaster

John -

Sounds like a pack that's very low on charge or more likely bad contacts at the lower center board to legs connection.

Yep, both problems low pack and bad contacts. You called it

Originally Posted by Wasp09

If the HW options weren't set correctly, most likely your board won't work. What are you looking for?

I guess what I am looking for is...If I want to update to MultiWii 2.01 or anything newer in the future then I will want to turn all of the origional sensors back on //define the same things that are already on and working good. I would hate to choose the wrong item and suffer with poor flying characteristics. I have only had 2 MultiWii boards and there are so many different accelerometers, baro, etc that I get confused with what has what

Originally Posted by Chevycruizer

Yep, both problems low pack and bad contacts. You called it



I guess what I am looking for is...If I want to update to MultiWii 2.01 or anything newer in the future then I will want to turn all of the origional sensors back on //define the same things that are already on and working good. I would hate to choose the wrong item and suffer with poor flying characteristics. I have only had 2 MultiWii boards and there are so many different accelerometers, baro, etc that I get confused with what has what

For my Crius SE board, Crius SE is a single option. For my legacy Wii gryos and accelerometers, there are no options (defaults).

I also activated AUX2 on D8 so that I can use my idle up switch to turn baro on and off via the pitch CH using flat pitch curves. That is another option.

AUX1 is default, no options. I use gryo gain to switch level and compass together.

That is all I can do with my 6 CH RX.

There ain't too many to choose from. Don't worry.

popcorn:

Terri & everybody,

I picked up one of the CRIUS MultiWii LCD boards to use.

I wanted to make changes to the stored settings at the field.

Can't find anything on connecting from the MultiWii to the LCD. The TTL connections are different on this board than others....
Any ideas?

OK, just found everything here in the PDF:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/attac...mentid=4807249

Plug the 3 wire connector into the TTL port, start with the black wire on GND, red on VCC, and white on RXI. Check out the Control Stick Configuration Guide to enter the LCD Configuration Mode.

Works great! Can make any of the changes I need then save them

Later

Does anybody have one of these http://www.multiwiicopter.com/produc...35537_zoom.jpg

Originally Posted by tech69x

Does anybody have one of these http://www.multiwiicopter.com/produc...35537_zoom.jpg

These and other Scarabs are very expensive... But man, oh man.... They are nice...

Above my budget, I'm afraid.

Chris

I was thinking about getting one when i get my flying skills better with this 250 I had my first big crash today broke 3 props I lost control and hit a tree I was flying to fast but I an haveing a blast with this quad

Originally Posted by Wasp09

I also activated AUX2 on D8 so that I can use my idle up switch to turn baro on and off via the pitch CH using flat pitch curves.

AUX1 is default, no options. I use gryo gain to switch level and compass together.

Can you explain a little more? I understand AUX1, switch used to turn level and heading hold on or off. I am tracking with //defining D8 in the sketch and using a differnent switch for baro. But what is pitch CH and flat pitch curve? I have some collective pitch heli, so maybee I am over thinking it.

I had a similar incident. No tree, but broke 3 props and one of the arms. Terri is going to make more money from me on parts!!

Originally Posted by tech69x

I was thinking about getting one when i get my flying skills better with this 250 I had my first big crash today broke 3 props I lost control and hit a tree I was flying to fast but I an haveing a blast with this quad

Are there different flight modes if so how do I change them the reson I ask is because I keep seeing people talk about arco mode