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Old Jun 07, 2012, 07:12 PM
The Small Sub Guy
Joined Nov 2011
45 Posts
Build Log
Special Navy Type IIA Build

I have been working on this hull for a little over two months. I wanted to fashion my sub after Caswells and DE products Type IIV. This was my first mistake. You will understand better as you read the build notes. The sub is 1:72nd scale and 22.5" long, and uses a total of 4 separate channels for the control.
Here are some photos the laser cut deck, the model and Caswell DE products
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Old Jun 07, 2012, 07:19 PM
The Small Sub Guy
Joined Nov 2011
45 Posts
1) Build List (remember like Caswells and DE products):
2) (remember like Caswells and DE products)
3) Build list:
4) 1 ESCs Viper 10 no casing
5) 3 Mini Servos diving planes and rudder.
6) 1 Angle keeper
7) 1 length of 2.0 inch OD Lexan
8) 1 length of 1.5 inch OD Lexan
9) 1 casting resin
10) 2 pair dog bone drive shaft with couplers
11) 2 shoulder bearings 1/8 inch ID
12) 4 shaft seals 1/16 ID
13) 2 propeller shaft seals 1/8 ID
14) 2 Propellers
15) 2 Motors
16) 1 Receiver FM 75MHZ
17) 2 wheel collars 1/8 ID
18) Assorted plastics and brass tubing

I started with the drive shafts. The shafts ride on ceramic shoulder bearings and the assembly is held together by wheel collars.
The square shaft centers the assembly and is glue point to the hull. I could not glue the main diameter as it would hinder the flexing of the hull. The 2”OD WTC must fit through a 1” opening in the hull
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Old Jun 07, 2012, 08:04 PM
The Small Sub Guy
Joined Nov 2011
45 Posts
This is the current configuration to date. I did not use wood deck because I’m afraid I could not seal it properly and swell in the water. This 2”OD tube fits through a 1” opening. Reinforcement of the sub body was required to keep the hull from splitting at the seams (oops).

Enough talk back to work.
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Old Jun 07, 2012, 08:08 PM
Registered User
Joined May 2012
52 Posts
Nice sub!

I like the fact that you are making the WTC and other things from scratch. Great to say to other people, 'I made this all by myself!' (kinda sounds like a child showing something new to his parents).

Please continue posting.

-Dive and Surface
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Old Jun 07, 2012, 08:53 PM
Submarines, etc.
tsenecal's Avatar
Arvada, Colorado
Joined May 2005
1,595 Posts
who's propellors are you using? i know the kit ones are horribly wrong in pitch.
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Old Jun 07, 2012, 09:06 PM
The Small Sub Guy
Joined Nov 2011
45 Posts
I had some cheap plastic ones laying around. they a few MM small.
Too cheap to order the right ones. The link below had better ones.
http://www.prop-shop.co.uk/
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Old Jun 07, 2012, 11:00 PM
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Philippines
Joined Jan 2005
854 Posts
Thanks Mar7ck.
can't wait to see pictures and video of her diving.

BTW, What did you meant by floating motors?

Correct me if I'm wrong, you're using a wheel collar you to connect your 1/8" drive shaft with the 2mm motor shaft, right?
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Old Jun 08, 2012, 01:11 AM
The Small Sub Guy
Joined Nov 2011
45 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by redboat219 View Post
Thanks Mar7ck.
can't wait to see pictures and video of her diving.

BTW, What did you meant by floating motors?

Correct me if I'm wrong, you're using a wheel collar you to connect your 1/8" drive shaft with the 2mm motor shaft, right?
Flaoting motors:
The motors a re bearing/seals the motors can rotate about two degrees and move fore and aft about 3/32".
The motors were originally hard mounted but i could not get the alignment right.


The wheel collers only keep the shafts from backing away from the bearing surface.
The 1/8" shafts neck down from the wheel collar to the propellers.

The motors connect to their dog bone connectors via a brass shaft drilled to an intrenal diameter of 2mm.

I hope I am being clear.
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Old Jun 08, 2012, 02:39 AM
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Philippines
Joined Jan 2005
854 Posts
How did you bore out the 1/8" shaft to accept a 2mm shaft? That just leaves you with a .5mm thick wall.

Here's an idea to get the 2" dia. WTC inside without passing through the 1" gap in the deck. Make a vertical cut to separate the hull into fore and aft. Just slide the wtc and reconnect the hull together with plates and screws. You could easily connect the linkages through the opening for deck piece.
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Old Jun 08, 2012, 07:40 AM
Submarines, etc.
tsenecal's Avatar
Arvada, Colorado
Joined May 2005
1,595 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by redboat219 View Post
How did you bore out the 1/8" shaft to accept a 2mm shaft? That just leaves you with a .5mm thick wall.

Here's an idea to get the 2" dia. WTC inside without passing through the 1" gap in the deck. Make a vertical cut to separate the hull into fore and aft. Just slide the wtc and reconnect the hull together with plates and screws. You could easily connect the linkages through the opening for deck piece.
redboat, its easier than that. the mouldings for the hull are already seperated behind the conning tower...

(photo lifted from model shipwrights review of kit http://modelshipwrights.kitmaker.net...=126676&page=1 )
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Old Jun 08, 2012, 09:23 AM
The Small Sub Guy
Joined Nov 2011
45 Posts
Thanx guys, these are all valid points.
When i started this project i wanted to make this kit just like the Revell Type VII kit using Caswell DE Products parts and parts fashioned like theirs. So that meant gluing the two sides pieces together. I know that there are easier ways of doing this, but that would defeat my plan (yes i would build it differently next time).
Originally i was going to use a 1.125" OD tube in the sub like most of my small subs.
Something went wrong i went a lil crazy and made the drive system 2"OD. Now i could not use my 1.125"OD tube because the dog bone angle was too great. I had already glued the 4 hull pieces together so there was no going back, or i did not want to go back.
Of all the subs I've built this is by far this is strangest build. But I'm having fun.
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