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Old Feb 18, 2013, 09:34 AM
I never finish anyth
United States, TX, Houston
Joined Jan 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gadorey View Post
Thanks, but is that a must? Like I said I am completetly clueless how to wire a proper FPV set up. I know ( I think) what components are needed and more or less how it works, but what I am really looking for is something like a wire diagram for electronically challenged people showing what is connected to what. I know electric motors, ESCs BECs, Lipos, soldering, but video transmission is still chinese to me, and I'm alone here so no one I can ask to show me. So if anyone has a link or post something here I'd be very grateful.

I will have a Gopro 3 black edition and a 5.8g 500 mW vTx. On the ground I have a 7" monitor with integrated vRx for 5.8g. I want a simple set up just to play around and flying LOS. No long distance FPV flights in mind.
7578 miles from you in
China, Shanghai

I just needed to point out this made me lol.

Yeah most FPV equipment can only handle 3S. If you want to fly with 4S you'll need something like TJ posted to bring down the voltage OR a small 3S batter for your FPV equipment only. I use 3S 1000-1300mah batteries for my FPV and it only needs to be charged every 10ish flights. There is a few reasons why this is a good idea but the biggest is that if your multi puts a lot of stress on your battery or the voltage sags you will loose video which as you can imagine is bad.

Here is the basic flow of video/power for most setups

Power
Battery -> vTx -> Camera
(I don't have a ton of experience with different brands of vTx's but I know Immersion vTx's supply out 5V of power to your camera. My old FPV camera was a 5V so this worked fine but my new one demands more power (12V) so I had to buy a 5V to 12V Step-Up to put between the vTx and the camera. Simple)

Video
Camera -> vTx -> vRx -> Monitor/Goggles


If you are interested in flying with goggles for short distances I recommend you look into the FatShark Predator system over at HobbyKing. I started with that and it is pretty easy to use when first starting out. I since have upgraded the antennas twice and the vTx to get a better signal regardless of outside interference.
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Old Feb 18, 2013, 09:36 AM
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T J Gilbert's Avatar
United States, MS, Ridgeland
Joined Feb 2009
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@gadory

You asked this:
Still one question though. Do you connect the the vTx to the battery mains or balancing plug? The vTx I ordered operates from 7.4V to 13V, so with a 3S Lipo it's fine. But what if one day I decide to use a 4S? Goes pooof with a fully charge batt?
I answered this:
You'll need something like this...
http://www.dpcav.com/xcart/Adjustabl...EPIC-Type.html


To be more specific:
Some pilots tap off their balance plug to power things, I've read pro and cons.
You probably need to make up your own mind.
A 3S lipo will work fine for your vtx, but 4S will require a voltage regulator.
Or you can research tapping off the balance plug using only 3 cells of the 4 cell lipo.
I like the voltage regulator that I posted the link for...
It keeps your voltage constant if the lipo cells sag.
It can step output voltage UP from the input voltage.
Pretty cute!

Many of your questions can be answered by exploring around this site.
Their technical help area is pretty good.
https://hobbywireless.com/
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Last edited by T J Gilbert; Feb 18, 2013 at 09:44 AM. Reason: Comments...
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Old Feb 18, 2013, 09:45 AM
Flying R/C since 1964
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United States, IL, Chicago
Joined Sep 2004
3,520 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by gadorey View Post
I'll try tom weigh it one of these days. The scales I have at home didn't really work because I couldn't get the quad with the U/C on them properly.

Well, the current consumption does depend sensitively on the weight of the machine. In my tests on a 450, every additional 100g of mass requires an extra 1.4amps in order to hover.
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Old Feb 18, 2013, 09:49 AM
Flying R/C since 1964
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United States, IL, Chicago
Joined Sep 2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gloon View Post
My suggestion is to take power from the main battery. If you carry a second battery only for your vTx you are caring dead weight sometimes. e corresponding BECs. Again, my suggestion is to leave the Gopro battery alone.

Something I learned many years ago is that every additional item powered from your main battery represents one additional point of failure that can potentially take out your entire very expensive investment. These days I ALWAYS power everything not part of the flight control system from a separate battery.
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Old Feb 18, 2013, 10:13 AM
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Joined Sep 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T J Gilbert View Post
Yes, T J Gilbert has the best solution, I think.
I don't have access to such a good voltage regulator. So I settled with a L7812CV
http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/data...onics/2143.pdf

I guess Gilbertīs is better because it has more components and maybe the signal is cleaner.

Take the power from to the battery mains or balancing plug. Its the same. But If you take power from the balancing plug use all cells. Dont take only the cells you need (3 out of 4) for your vTx, otherwise you will end up with an unbalanced battery, take voltage from all 4 cells out of the balancing plug.

best regtards

Martin
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Old Feb 18, 2013, 10:19 AM
Have a nice day! Kristjan
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Slovenia, Novo mesto, Šentjernej
Joined Jan 2006
812 Posts
Need help
Have clone of DJI 450 frame, naza with GPS, 4x blueseries 12A ESC-s and keda motors. So far model was flying perfectly. But when I flashed ESC-s I had crash ( no props were broken). I used same settings as before with stock FW. flight was ok, at beginning, but when I made turn and ad some throttle to speed up model it flew few meters normally and then just made 90° turn and fall in to snow at angle of about 20-30°. Should I turn gains up? At the moment they are at about 100-120.
In hovering and slow flying model was very stable and I had no oscillations.
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Old Feb 18, 2013, 10:30 AM
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T J Gilbert's Avatar
United States, MS, Ridgeland
Joined Feb 2009
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@Gloon

"I guess Gilbertīs is better because it has more components and maybe the signal is cleaner."
Mine's not necessarily better.
It just does more than yours.
Mine is adjustable via a pot.
Mine is a SEPIC regulator capable of a higher output voltage than input voltage.
That's why I think it's cute!
RF interference could be worse than yours.
The website recommends a filter they sell if there is a problem...

There are many ways to skin a cat...
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Old Feb 18, 2013, 10:34 AM
Habitual Line Stepper
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United States, WA, Redmond
Joined Dec 2011
698 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gloon View Post
Yes, T J Gilbert has the best solution, I think.
I don't have access to such a good voltage regulator. So I settled with a L7812CV
http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/data...onics/2143.pdf

I guess Gilbertīs is better because it has more components and maybe the signal is cleaner.

Take the power from to the battery mains or balancing plug. Its the same. But If you take power from the balancing plug use all cells. Dont take only the cells you need (3 out of 4) for your vTx, otherwise you will end up with an unbalanced battery, take voltage from all 4 cells out of the balancing plug.

best regtards

Martin
Actually the difference is that your linear reg dissipates the extra voltage as heat whereas the switching reg switches the source voltage on/off to get the desired average output. The other advantage is that it can also act as a power filter for your vtx (so you don't get horizontal interference lines from the motors). Not sure if TJ's will filter, but I use this one and was able to remove my seperate LC filter.
http://www.dimensionengineering.com/products/de-swadj

edit: just read TJ's post and forgot to mention I have no RF interference issues (using 1280 or 5.8 video and 2.4 control), but that may be specific to my setup.
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Old Feb 18, 2013, 12:18 PM
Flying R/C since 1964
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United States, IL, Chicago
Joined Sep 2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Glover View Post
For those who can be bothered to read it a new version of the Naza manual was released today:

http://download.dji-innovations.com/..._Manual_en.pdf

No idea what has changed though!

Mostly additions. Page 6-7 expanded significantly, p8 has additional box, stick calibration expanded and clarified, failsafe section has been expanded, compass calibration section clarified, more information about IMU calibration, and some cleaning up of the Chinglish.
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Old Feb 18, 2013, 12:36 PM
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United States, MS, Ridgeland
Joined Feb 2009
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Naza Manual 2.5

One thing they changed was probably the result of our testing...
On page 21, they added "no matter what mode you fly" to the first sentence in Step 2: Enhanced Failed-Safe Methods.
This clarifies that enhanced failsafe works in Manual, Atti, and GPS like all of us observed.
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Last edited by T J Gilbert; Feb 18, 2013 at 12:55 PM. Reason: Clarification...
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Old Feb 18, 2013, 12:54 PM
FPV Recon
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United States, TX, Cedar Park
Joined Nov 2005
195 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by petaks01 View Post
Give up? X2 error tells me that you have something set up for input on the X2 channel but
not connected the lead from the RX or RX not sending data for the X2 channel.

Primary channels connected ok?
Sticks calibrated?
X1 & X2 assigned to what in the Assistant?
X1 & X2 assigned to what on your TX?
The error seems erroneous. When it is present there is no communication and I can check nothing. When its working everything is fine. I have X1,2 assigned to my rotary knobs on the 8FG. Left is cam tilt, right is gains.
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Old Feb 18, 2013, 04:15 PM
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Canada, BC, Langley
Joined Feb 2013
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Question

Without having to read every page, I was wondering, does anyone have advice on the naza qith gps on a F550 that holds relatively still in attitude mode, but when I turn to gps mode the unit starts to fly away from me ? Before anyone asks, yes the switch is configured correctly and I have calibrated it several times.
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Old Feb 18, 2013, 04:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kallend View Post
Something I learned many years ago is that every additional item powered from your main battery represents one additional point of failure that can potentially take out your entire very expensive investment. These days I ALWAYS power everything not part of the flight control system from a separate battery.
That may be true for planes, but for helis, that fly only because of the motors that take the power from the main battery... not so sure. If the main battery fails, everyting goes down no matter how many other systems you have powered by different batteries.
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Old Feb 18, 2013, 04:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hewco View Post
Without having to read every page, I was wondering, does anyone have advice on the naza qith gps on a F550 that holds relatively still in attitude mode, but when I turn to gps mode the unit starts to fly away from me ? Before anyone asks, yes the switch is configured correctly and I have calibrated it several times.

Before taking off, have you waited for the red flashes to stop?
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Old Feb 18, 2013, 04:59 PM
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Joined Jan 2007
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Shot in the dark from a Naza novice, but have you calibrated your compass recently? I had a similar issue and this seemed to help.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hewco View Post
Without having to read every page, I was wondering, does anyone have advice on the naza qith gps on a F550 that holds relatively still in attitude mode, but when I turn to gps mode the unit starts to fly away from me ? Before anyone asks, yes the switch is configured correctly and I have calibrated it several times.
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