Originally Posted by power

I am sitting on the fence with the firmware upgrade until I know it isn't buggy.

Please let me know what you find out on a solution....

Mike

Yep, the only reason why I haven't upgraded to 2.02. I gotta make sure it is bugfree first.
Currently the 2.01 works flawless for me. But I would like to see how increased refresh rate of gimbal servo output would help. Also it would be good to have sensor calibration feature...
I will wait a little more...

i boot the naza up and after 30 secs or so i get the gps lock, one yellow flash in atti, one green in gps. as soon as i give it throttle both go to 1 yellow + 2 red, 1 green + 2 red. when i land and throttle is off both go back to full lock.

could this be some kind of interference from the esc's? i have it mounted on a mast away from the camera which was also causing loss of gps

Originally Posted by yosemitez

i boot the naza up and after 30 secs or so i get the gps lock, one yellow flash in atti, one green in gps. as soon as i give it throttle both go to 1 yellow + 2 red, 1 green + 2 red. when i land and throttle is off both go back to full lock.

could this be some kind of interference from the esc's? i have it mounted on a mast away from the camera which was also causing loss of gps

How did you know the Camera was a problem? The dirtiest component, in terms of electrical noise are the ESC's so if they are mounted near the camera and near the GPS, they could have been the cause of all your issues. Personally, I mount my ESC's outboard on the arms, close to the motors and far from all other components. Below is my HT-FPV and you can see the ESC's directly under the motors.

Yosemitez,

Just for good measures, check the GPS plug and make sure it has not backed out.

esc with ferrite can help too

thanks, the camera a nex 5n will cause the gps to go from 1 green to 1 green and 2 red when turned on. the gopro 2 will cause it to go from 1 green to 1 green + 3 red when turned on. it is a known issue with gopro 2 and i built a shield out of aluminum foil that goes around the gopro that solved that problem.

moved the gps from the front mount on frame to mast mount as seen i photo. i think i solved the loss of gps by moving the gps wire up on the upper part of the frame away from the wires feeding into the naza.

does anyone know what 2 rapid green or orange flashes mean when flying? boot up naza and get solid gps lock, 1 green flash and when i take off i start to get 2 rapid green flashes. when throttle is center it goes back to 1 green flash. same in atti 1 orange then when flying it goes to 2 rapid orange flashes until throttle is centered. is this normal?

Originally Posted by yosemitez

thanks, the camera a nex 5n will cause the gps to go from 1 green to 1 green and 2 red when turned on. the gopro 2 will cause it to go from 1 green to 1 green + 3 red when turned on. it is a known issue with gopro 2 and i built a shield out of aluminum foil that goes around the gopro that solved that problem.

moved the gps from the front mount on frame to mast mount as seen i photo. i think i solved the loss of gps by moving the gps wire up on the upper part of the frame away from the wires feeding into the naza.

does anyone know what 2 rapid green or orange flashes mean when flying? boot up naza and get solid gps lock, 1 green flash and when i take off i start to get 2 rapid green flashes. when throttle is center it goes back to 1 green flash. same in atti 1 orange then when flying it goes to 2 rapid orange flashes until throttle is centered. is this normal?

In flight:
2 flashes = sticks not centered
1 flash = sticks centered (including throttle)
Better read your manual more...
It's on page 39.

thanks yes i did and that is what i thought, sticks not centered. are sticks centered in naza assistant by subtrim?

was confused by "sparking" on pg 39 what is that?

Originally Posted by yosemitez

thanks yes i did and that is what i thought, sticks not centered. are sticks centered in naza assistant by subtrim?

was confused by "sparking" on pg 39 what is that?

Avoid the use of all trims and subtrims if you can.
If your transmitter is not damaged, zero trims and subtrims should show your sticks centered on your transmitter's monitor as well as the Naza Assistant.

BTW, this does not apply to switch channels. You may need to use subtrims to get 3 pos switches to respond correctly.

I've recently answered a post about trims, so some explanation is not too far back.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=6143
There's some more on my blog about Naza trims.

They mean "flasing" or "blinking" when they say "sparking". It's a Chinese to English translation thing...

Originally Posted by mark_q

Personally, I mount my ESC's outboard on the arms, close to the motors and far from all other components. Below is my HT-FPV and you can see the ESC's directly under the motors.

I really like the look of your layout. I've had all kinds of interference problems and I want to steal your idea of putting ESCs way out on the arms.

But I've always read that you should keep ESCs as close as possible to the battery and not increase the length of wire running from the power source to the ESCs. Have you had any problems with that?

my sticks are not centered in naza assitant (all trims and subtrims off) and it is a fairly new dx8. i read over at multirotorforums.com that folks are using the subtrim to get sticks centered in NA. i tried it out today and it seems to have helped with drift

I thought I would share this. The naza makes light painting so easy




Flips are actually pretty smooth considering this a 550 with 750kv/1047 props on it.

I am finally content with this multirotor....now to build an acro one

Originally Posted by yosemitez

my sticks are not centered in naza assitant (all trims and subtrims off) and it is a fairly new dx8. i read over at multirotorforums.com that folks are using the subtrim to get sticks centered in NA. i tried it out today and it seems to have helped with drift

Not much experience with subtrims here.
I stopped fooling with all trims when, out of instinct, I used trims when I first started flying Naza.
Things got all screwed up, and I had strange drift problems.
That's when I was advised against trims and subtrims, and I've been passing that experience/advice on ever since.
If you successfully are able to fly with subtrims used over a period of sessions, please post your success so that others may benefit...
It may be that trims are taboo and subtrims work.
Thanks!

Be sure to proceed with a little caution here. If subtrims add like trims do each time Naza is powered up, soon your right stick will be trimmed to its max and CSC might not be recognized. Does the subtrim seem to stay set from power up to power up? Or do you find yourself needing to add more subtrim?

TJ,

I use subtrims to center the stick in assistant.

If you then change the subtrims again after you have successfully centered them in the assistant, then you will undo what you have achieved.

So your first instinct was right.

Originally Posted by T J Gilbert

Not much experience with subtrims here.
I stopped fooling with all trims when, out of instinct, I used trims when I first started flying Naza.
Things got all screwed up, and I had strange drift problems.
That's when I was advised against trims and subtrims, and I've been passing that experience/advice on ever since.
If you successfully are able to fly with subtrims used over a period of sessions, please post your success so that others may benefit...
It may be that trims are taboo and subtrims work.
Thanks!

Be sure to proceed with a little caution here. If subtrims add like trims do each time Naza is powered up, soon your right stick will be trimmed to its max and CSC might not be recognized. Does the subtrim seem to stay set from power up to power up? Or do you find yourself needing to add more subtrim?

Originally Posted by xtrmtrk

I really like the look of your layout. I've had all kinds of interference problems and I want to steal your idea of putting ESCs way out on the arms.

But I've always read that you should keep ESCs as close as possible to the battery and not increase the length of wire running from the power source to the ESCs. Have you had any problems with that?

I had no problems with the HT-FPV quad and it had about 6 inches added to the battery wire length on the long arms (over the stock length). I will say however, you are correct to be suspicious as this can lead to ESC failure if the wires are too long. Other factors that will contribute to the problem are running at max controller voltage (4s in my case) and running high current. There are ways to mitigate the inductance problem this creates and that is to add capacitors in parallel with the ESC's. In my case because I was not running high current (~9 - 15A each) nor at maximum controller voltage I had assumed I was OK at +6 inches. I say assumed because I did not test for voltage spikes on this set-up.

This particular quad had two GPS antenna and a 1.5w Vtx @ 1.3Ghz so I wanted to push the Esc's out so they wouldn't mess with everything else and I got what I wanted, <30 sec to full lock on both GPS antennas and noise free video. If I had the time I would have moved the ESC's closer in to see where it might actually make a difference but I never did this and I have since dis-assembled this frame to build my TBS frame (which is awesome ). Oh and no, I did not crash the HT-FPV quad, it just didn't fit with what I was looking for.

Mark